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Comments
I floored my "D" gear to 5.8k rpm and the needle dropped down with my foot still on full-throttle or still depressed all the way to the floor.
It seemed like i overrevved it, but im just guessing that my 5-speed auto is just selecting another gear for me to do full-throttle on. Is this normal or should i be more careful? Again, i never revved this high before and dont know what to expect.
High
It's like that ps2 gran tourismo game that i played... i chose auto for my car and when it was time to go racing.. i floored it and when it reaches the highest rpm it can go, it shifted to a higher gear for more acceleration.. :confuse:
High
So i guess my real question to ask is there any possible way to over rev an engine using the normal "D" gear on an automatic tranny?
Best regards
lance
I got some response like cut-off and upshifts, but nothing about if there could be any damaging effects done to the pistons, etc.
Do you think that there could be any damage done to the transmission or internal engine components?
High
I have no idea why that one poster commented on it being "stupid." Are there really drivers who have NEVER used full throttle? The car is designed to do this. The redline has been set well within the vehicles limitations and, especially in an automatic where it will shift for you when it feels its needed, there is NOTHING wrong with hitting that max rpm point. I suggest doing full-throttle acceleration on a regular basis (let's say once a week, for the sake of an argument) for both your personal enjoyment and the long-term healthiness of the vehicle.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
high
1.unnecessary engine wear and possibly failure.
2.you can't convince me that this is good for the tranny.
3.you create an unsafe condition for others on roadway.
4.if you lose control,i doubt most people will be able to recover control of their vehicles.
5.health care costs are high enough with out some nascar wannabe requiring long term care because he went into a tree.
However it is always worse to rev an engine at idle to redline than in gear because in gear the engine is "working" and is therefore somewhat restrained.
All this also depends on the type of engine. Some engines are very comfortable at redline all the day long and some you had better not do that.
I tried later on after it died to start it again. It cranked up but lasted only 2-3 seconds and then died again. It did this twice. The car is getting air and gas, FYI. Any input? Again it's a 1990 Dodge Shadow. Thanks. =^..^=
crank - i'm not sure what you are differentiating when you say "nothing wrong with full throttle" and "don't forcefully take an engine to redline." What do you mean by forcefully? We're simply talking about using full throttle and hitting the shiftpoint (redline) in an auto trans car while accelerating. I don't see how this is "forceful", so maybe you are making the same point as shifty and talking about revving the engine to redline in neutral or park? If so, as I stated above, that's not what we're talking about here.
As far as your statements about racing, please save it. Again, that's not what we're talking about. We are not referring to hitting redline in high gear and, consequently, breaking the speed limit. Don't turn a discussion into something it is not. Besides, even if we were, we could very easily be talking about driving at the racetrack.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You need to get it into a competant diagnostic tranny shop, that hopefully will give you a straight answer. Hopefully you have a trusted local mechanic, otherwise I guess you are stuck with a tranny shop (AAMCO or the like), although you might find a local trans shop too.
If it is a stick shift, does it shift gears when the car is off? If so, what gear are yo udriving around in?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I believe that my 5-speed auto tranny upshifted after all.. When i floored it, i probably caused the transmission to drop a gear, called a 'kickdown', into the next lowest gear, probably 4th when i was cruising along the freeway. The engine accelerates the car in 4th gear, till i reach 5800rpm, and then the transmission changes to 5th gear, causing my rpm to drop to 3000, all this while WOT.
So, i guess the answer i was probably looking for was the tranny upshifted after having downshifted to kick up the speed.
I enjoyed viewing each comments though, thanks.
High
a quick check of many hits indicates "Thermostat Function".
On one site, a poster suggested the thermostat may be stuck. Perhaps Nissan changed the semantics of the code in other years to be relevant to the TPS / Motor.
Well it looks like the old girl had no problem in the mountains since changing the MAF either. She had her usual power and even had a kick down at 75 MPH on an upgrade. Engine running like a top now.
The question I posted in the other forum about front end can still be viewed if you like. I spoke with PARTSBIN.COM from here and salesman said that neither the KYB or Monroe set is complete. He suggested a Sachs kit:
http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/quote.jsp?make=MA&year=1994&product- =L3030-167566&application=000393699&part=Strut%20Mount&category=All&dp=true
Its the second one down, and he says it has all the necessary parts. I see no photo and know nothing of Sachs.
Any thoughts from either of you or should I wait for the KYB kit ?
Thx Again
Peter
Btw, we accept no responsibility for speeding tickets with your 626. LOL. Glad to hear you got that part sorted out.
luckyford
In regards to the Moog parts ( #MOK9709 ) the guy at parts bin is trying to steer me to the Sachs parts and so I am now intent on getting the MOOG as you suggested.
I am weary of online salesmens recommendations. If Parts Bin does not have them , do you have any other suggestions where to get that kit. I will be coming back to USA on Jan 25th so I have some time to research the parts.
Thx again as always
Peter
I have an AWD '03 Mitsubishi Outlander. It only has 36K miles on it, but when I hit a bump, primarily at low speeds, there is a "thud" sound that comes from the front end, and you can feel the "thud" in the front floorboard. I think it feels like something is bottoming out in the front end. I have had the vehicle at the dealer 3 seperate times (and it is back there today). They cannot find anything difinitive that they think is causing this. They say that they have checked all of the front end connections to make sure everything is torqued to factory specs, but the "thud" is still occuring.
My question is this - Would it be the struts or some part of the strut assembly? I am thinking that maybe the struts are either shot, or weak, and they are causing this. I have read that struts can go as early as 25K, or last 100K plus. I have never had the vehicle off road, but I do realize that I could have just gotten bad struts from the factory. I bought the car with 10,000 miles on it, and this started at about 20,000 miles (so I can't be sure how it was treated before I got it). The car is back at the dealer today, and any input would be appreciated.
I have done some more internet searching and found another house that has them. Any idea how heavy or large they are? The airlines refused to allow me to take the CV (joint axle combo) when I last travelled due to oil in those parts. I had to send them by boat . That took 2 1/2 months.
Are these parts dry and can I take the kits apart and place in 2 suitcases if I get them. Otherwise I have KYB parts here in Greece but no one is sure of the match of numbers for this car. Also they prolly cost 2 x as much here because they are japanese not EU made.Is KYB any good, or should I wait?
Thx again Pal
Peter