Got a Quick, Technical Question?

cob

They do a top engine cleaning treatment. Some cleaner they spray into the spark plug holes and run the engine for a few minutes and change the oil. I had it done on my Intrigue with the 3.5 northstar when it was using a quart every 1000 miles. It cost around $300 and solved the problem of the car smoking at startup but still went through a quart every 1500 miles. If your Aurora is not blowing smoke when you start it up just keep adding oil. You can buy alot of quarts for $300.

user777

just curious, a stuck PCV valve would contribute to what rate of consumption?

mamascalise

I have both PO171/PO174 codes showing up on my 2000 Windstar. Would that signify the likely hood of one of those repair over the other. I'm looking for a starting point. I have already had 100's of dollars in mechanics bills for this problem. I'm afraid to take it back but it is time for my smog check. I have been driving my car with no problems what so ever for about a year with this stupid light on. PLease let me know if you have any advise on these codes from previous experiences.
Thanks!!!!!!!

mamascalise

What is the most likely culprit in your experience to cause a check engine light (codes PO171/PO174) on a 2000 Ford Windstar?
Thanks!!!!!

billbuttermore

Hi,

I just bought a '92 Dodge Dakota 3.9 2wd. The ABS and Brake lights remain on all the time. I have changed the differential "abs" sensor on top of the rear differential to no effect. Fluid is not leaking, pedal is OK. Vehicle stops OK. I would like to pull the ABS code to see what else it might be. Instructions elsewhere say "pull ABS codes by grounding connector" I think I have located the two terminal black plastic connector under the steering column. My question is: which one of the terminals do I ground? Or do I ground both?

Thanks for any help.

Bill

vdubbed

has any1 converted the golf mk3 gti 8v to a vr6.what do i need other than the engine and box.any info most gratefull.

stickguy

lots and lots of money. And a real good mechanic.

Only slitghly kidding, but unless you are real handy, this probably won't be a simple swap. In the long run, wouldn't it be much cheaper to just buy a VR6 model and sell the old one?

alcan

Here's the location and colour of the single wire service diagnostic connector (black wire to the RWAL module):
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d800ff8ee.gif

This is the code list:
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d800ffb0e.gif

billbuttermore

Thank you very much for the quick reply and great information! I will look for an 18 gauge black wire terminating in a service diagnostic "connector" on the lower right side cowl.

I'll try to pull the code tomorrow.

Bill

cwetherbee

I have just picked up a 1999 Continental from the dealer, 300 miles later the "check engine" light is on. Can you tell me what the possibilities are? The car is running fine otherwise.
thanks
Candy

steve86

How hard is it to replace fan belts on a 2000 Honda Accord, V6 3.0? Does a motor mount have to be removed?

Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

could be any one of a number of things. Reading codes is pretty simple...autozone will do it for you for free. Once you have the codes you can come back here and we will tell you what they mean. You should also whine at the dealership and maybe they'll help you out. 300 miles isn't very much before having a problem. Is your gas cap nice and tight?

jayinfl

sounds as if it is an O2 sensor or a MAS sensor. The Mass Air Sensor is located between the air filter and the throttle body.

klar

I can't find any semi-current discussions regarding problem I have. Your assistance is appreciated.

I tried to install a remote starter on my 2000 Ford Windstar. When it did not work (later found the brake switch was unplugged) I disconnected everything only to find out my transponder keys will not start the car. Anti-theft is flashing, no starter crank, which leads me to believe the passive anti-theft system is locking me out. Dealer says once this happens only they can correct by reprograming the anti-theft system. If that were true, believe more people would be discussing.

Thanks,

Keith

sl12001

My Saturn SL1 2001 has lights.radio, etc but when you try to crank... everything shutsoff. In addition, last week, my husband driving down the road at about 55mph and the car just completely shut down. He coasted into a parking lot and it cranked right up. It has a new battery.
Advise....

hpechk

Yesterday when I drove my car (1999 vw new beetle) every thing was fine. Today I got in my car, started it, released the emergency brake & NO low beam lights!! :sick: When I turn on my running lights, the high beam will work.. but NO low beam. :mad: Does any one know what my problem is????? Please help!!!!
Thanks to all who reply!!

buckfever

buckfever

I WAS DRIVUNG AND IT JUST STOP RUNNING . I CHECKED FUSES AND AUTO STOP RELAY GOT POWER FROM RELAY AND FUSES BOX .FUEL PUMP CAN ANYONE HELP ME .... THANKS MR ABOUT TO GIVE UP

Mr_Shiftright

fuse

vann1

I have a 1993 Cadillac Seville sts and I cannot locate the third fuse box. One is under the hookd and the other is in the truck but I cannot locate the third one. Any ideas?

williamson1

I would like to no why is my car keep shutting off. I can be driving on the road and it contantly will shut off. Sometimes i have to sit there for about 6 or 7 min. before it crank back up and sometimes it will start right up. Do you have a clue of whats wrong with my car.

alcan

"Do you have a clue of whats wrong with my car."

No. I don't even have a clue about it's make, model, year, mileage, or service history.

akatsuki

I need to ship my 98 Boxster from California to New York. Any recommendations on what is best way to do it? I don't want to have it show up destroyed by road debris and I am not there to prep the car in any way, so anyone know who I should use?

travis77

I used JJJ Carriers. I live in Tennessee and used them haul our car back from the 2005 SEMA show in Las Vegas. They charged us $1700 and took about a week for them to get the car here. No dammages were done and everything was still in tact. That price included $250,000 worth of insurance for the car also,, They used closed trucks and use car covers on the vehicles inside just to keep the dust off of them. We did research and they were very reasonably priced compared to others.

Mr_Shiftright

Closed carrier is safest but more expensive of course. I wouldn't say open carriers "destroy" cars but minor damage is more likely. After all, most new cars are shipped open.

rutter

i own a vw polo classic the problem i have with it is that it should rev to about 6500 but somtimes it has a seperate rev limiter at 5000 revs. When the seperate rev limiter comes on it makes the car run very rough the only way solve it whilst i am driving is to switch the ignition off and turn it back on, but i have to do this almost everytime i start the car.i have been told that i could be the ignition barrel as alot a vws have problems with them. any other sujestions?????

bgodd

I have a 1994 Honda Accord that is giving me problems starting in very cold weather. If left out over night, when I try and start it in the morning I turn the ignition switch and no dash lights come on but my horn works, radio as well as the fan/heater. It may take 20 tries before the dash lights come on and then the car will turn over and start. Also on very cold mornings once the car has started and I turn on my headlights there can be up to a 30 second delay before they come on. Once the car is warmed up there is no problem with the lights or starting. Again this only occurs in very cold weather ( -20 C) after the car has been sitting for a long time (8 hours or so). The back plate of the ignition switch was replaced last year as well as the day time running light module was repaired.
Any ideas?

user777

at -20C/-4F, are you running the proper oil in the vehicle rated down to -4F and below? if not, maybe it's having a tough time turning over because of the viscosity of the oil at that temperature.

if you put the key to the position just before it engages the starter and you still have no lights, then i might suspect a bad ignition switch. i would think you'd have indication then, but if the starter is having problems, i think with the ignition in the start position (rotated totally clockwise towards the dash), i would think everything else would be inhibited to provide maximal current to the starter.

when you say "turn over and start", is the starter turning the engine, or is nothing happening the first 20 tries?

highroller

How durable are these things on cars or trucks? Can they withstand heavy pressure when wind gusts (like 20+ mph)picks up and is applied forcely on the door, and the door is wildy "flown" back really hard or if someone intentionally swing the door back really hard because they're either upset or crazy :P ?

Mr_Shiftright

No, a wildly swinging door is like a giant lever...hinges aren't meant for that level of stress.

bgodd

I should have been more clear. When I say I have no dash lights what I'm saying is that when the key is in the ignition and turned to the On position (II) the Charging Sytem Indicator Light, the Daytime Running Lights Indicator light, and the Supplemental Restraint System Indicator Lights are not lit. Thus when the key is turned to the start position (III) absolutely nothing happens. After up to twenty tries of turning the key to start the car the dash lights come on ( ie Charging Sytem Indicator Light) and the car will then start no problem. It only occurs in very cold weather. Hopefully this explains my problem better.

daughtersmech

I have a V6 with a leak at the oil filter location. What is the appro. 3" X 3"X 2" or so boxy part called that sits directly behind the oil filter on the mounting shaft for the oil filter? Can't seem to locate a name so I can figure out how to fix the leak behind it!!

kcorbin11

Chevy Silverado 2500 has displayed "Service 4WD" message on two occasions over the last month- lasting only a few minutes each time. The Owners Manual recommends taking it to the Dealer- I'm reluctant. Anybody with similar experiences? Thanks Kurt

burdawg

Sounds like the contacts in the ignition switch are going bad. Cold weather possibly could worsen the problem due to parts contracting.

fordmotorsport

Problem is No fan function, I changed out the dash control panel and still have the problem everthing lights up but no blower, I have replaced the blower also and no luck.
Any Suggestions? Is there a sensor on the engine that tells the climate controller when it is up to 65 degrees
in order to let the fan come on as that is the lowest setting on the controller?
I can direct jump the blower to power and it runs.

fordmotorsport

Make sure your timing belt has been replaced or is in good shape as that is expensive if it goes out on the hiway ,
like bent valves and the like. That is if your car has one.

dave8697

I have a '98 Mustang 3.8 l automatic with 85000 miles, kept outside in Indiana. Drive it about 2 times a week on short trips. Have loud squeak from engine that started in November. I took off belt and still had noise. Noise is a loud squeak each engine revolution. With all accessories and water pump eliminated as source, I sprayed wd40 all around crankshaft exit from front of engine. Did not help. Then thought crankshaft sensor could be contacting aluminum toothed wheel on crankshaft, so I replaced that. Started it up and still had noise. Adjusted sensor to be as far from toothed wheel as possible and still had noise. Sprayed more wd 40 at front seal area of crankshaft and still had noise. Had someone crank engine to rotate crankshaft 1/4 revolution at a time as I sprayed wd40 and I heard the noise during the cranking as the engine rotated 1/4 turn slowly. Sound seemed to come from passenger side of oil pan. Could starter motor or flywheel be making squeak sound? Then drove car and noise was less frequent, going away for 10 minutes sometimes. Could lack of use of the car let corrosion build up on flywheel or something connected to crankshaft and make noise? I'm thinking the noise will go away if car gets driven more frequently. Any help with what to do next? Sound is not coming from inside the engine.

Mr_Shiftright

You might try to get it on a lift while running and use a mechanic's stethoscope to isolate the noise. If it's from the front timing case cover you'll probably have to pull it and look for perhaps a dislocated oil splasher or maybe a seal that's working it's way out or even a cam bearing???

hard to say with engine noises as they transmit through metal so easily...

john121

I have 2 codes reading: P0171 System fuel too lean (Bank #1) & P0174 System fuel too lean (Bank 2). The van has 103,000 miles. 2 years ago the shop read these same codes, the O2 sensors checked out OK but the electronic coolant temp. sensor was out of range which was then replaced. Is it likely this is the same problem with the ECT sensor or other likely problem components? I will test the ECT sensor per manual but wondering if these codes should lead me somewhere else also. Coolant level is normal. Any ideas?

bosox406

My 1994 BMW 740 IL (93-94, E32 model) won't start. This slowly was starting with the symptoms of taking longer and longer to crank over. I changed the spark plugs and even change all the ignition coils. It will crank, but not turn over. In the past, when it would eventually start it ran fine. It just started taking longer and longer to turn over until now where it will not start. When it was running I ran a can of BG44K through on a tank of gas. Any ideas I can check myself before unloading my checkbook at the repair shop?

qbrozen

i know nothing about this particular car, but, in general, check out the fuel filter and the maf (map). Make sure it is closing off the air flow when the car is cold.

mazda626atx

I could not agree more with Qbrozen. I also know nothing about this car , but on my 94 mazda was getting lean air mixture, ect codes, maf codes , O2 sensor codes and after clearing them all I got Mass Air flow and O2 sensor codes only. Then I changed MAf and the CEL light came on for one blink and never came on again. I assume PCM rebooted or something and engine is running fine for over 5 weeks now under all conditions.
It is my belief that one sensor can cause a range of bad codes and MAF is the most likely.
PGP

shick797

I have a 1995 Ford Contour and I need some help locating and removing the ABS module.

alcan

It's below the master cylinder and brake booster. Follow the lines from the master cylinder, they attach to it. Why are you replacing the unit?

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- b/d9/85/0900823d801bd985.jsp

bernz22

I am not sure were i should post this question. I own a 1999 toyota 4runner and when i bought it it was the sweetest ride i have owned. Now just one year later i am having some major hesitation problems, and the check engine light is on. My father is a mechanic and has placed the truck on a computer scanner to see what codes come up. The code indicated that I needed to replace o2 sensor bank 2. So we replaced it. Still did not help. It then told us to replace o2 sensor bank 1 so we did. still did not help. I have also replaced the fuel filter and the spark plugs. I since have replaced the mass air flow sensor and things seem a little better,but the computer now tells us to replace the air/fuel ratio sensor. My question is this.
Is the air/fuel ratio sensor the same as the bank 1 and 2 sensors or is it different. If it is different were is it located on the engine.
Also I was told that in order to ensure that the parts you by are correct you need to specify wether or not your vehicle is california spec or non-california spec. I have no idea if my vehicle is or not. How do I know.
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

billbuttermore

Thanks, Alcan. I downloaded and printed both the ABS wiring diagram and the diagnostic procedure. Following the procedure, I found the problem was that the rear brake lines had air trapped, and tripped the switch on the prooportioning valve which caused both the ABS and the Brake light to illuminate.

I bled the brakes and then found the cause of the air - a loose line nut into the dump valve. Got that tightened, now all is good.

Thank you very much.

alcan

You're welcome. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.

alcan

The air/fuel ratio sensors, )2 sensors, and oxygen sensors are the same item by different names.

The scan tool has not been invented yet that will indicate specifically that a component is defective. All they say is that there's a problem with the circuit or that data is out of range.

What code #'s were retrieved? There are close to 30 of them which refer to O2 sensor circuits.

shick797

My brake lights came on and will not go out. I took it to my local ford service guy and he said I had a short in the ABS module. He also quoted me $1500.00 (usd) to replace it. He said that I could remove the module and run without it, but for liability reasons he couldn't help me. My ABS has been out for about six months so I figure it shouldn't matter anyway.

mazda626atx

Did you clear the codes after replacing MASS AIR FLOW sensor? Or after changing O2 sensor?
Old codes stay in memory and should be cleared. Maybe car is driving better than you realize and the CEL is tainting your impression. Also a wild thought, but old codes in memory might influence the PCM.
I have had similar experience in my 94 Mazda 626 which were resolved and 4 previous codes vanished by changing just the MAf when codes pointed to MAF, O2 , and ECT. Again I had to clear the codes after
Good Luck
PGP