Got a Quick, Technical Question?

redi2xplode

I have recently had a driver's side window regulator replaced. Two days later my heated seats are automatically on without me pressing the on/off button. Is there any corelation? If not, what could my problem be?

Mr_Shiftright

I can't think of a link offhand unless it is something so totally weird that it's a one in a million circumstance. No need to mess with the seats but you do have to sit on them probably while replacing the regulator...maybe the mechanic's weight jiggled something loose under there? so there is a slight connection here but pretty remote. I'd guess the switch itself. do BOTH seat heat up even though they have individual buttons? Or are they individual buttons?

nd2chill

I've got a '93 Honda Accord that loses almost all of its power below 3000 rpm after about 13 miles of driving for the first time in a day. If I shut it off and turn it back on right away, same deal. It's okay above 3000 rpm. A mechanic already checked the engine and couldn't duplicate the problem. Maybe he's not that good! Any suggestions would help. The engine is in fine shape other than this anomoly.

zultek

brand new here.. hoping to find the correct forum..

I have a 94 Honda Accord.. back brake shoes currently micrometer to .063", a mechanic here says they are sufficient to pass a safety for re-sale..but I am a little concerned .. also the LR brake cable is jammed, the 2 rear control arm bushings are weather worn and cracked with some play, there is a leak in the exhaust ring near the fuel tank, the upper right ball joint has play in it that can be wiggled by hand, and there is a small chip in the windshield on the driver's side, 2 marker lights are also burned out...
1. would you consider this vehicle safe for resale in this condition
2. what is this thickness of new factory brake shoe linings .. to me .063 doesn't seem to be very much.. what would be the expected life of these brakes (.063) at feeway speeds daily?
3. How much does it matter if there is play in 1 ball joint?

What would you consider this vehicle be worth on resale as is?? fixed?

More importantly ..Would you drive this vehicle as described?

buraddo

85 honda prelude 2.0 si 2 cylenders low on compression,don't smoke,no water in oil, not sure if it's a head gasket or distributor. replaced everything electrical,at a total loss..

dachief1

I own a 2005 Mercury Mountaineer with 6,000 miles. I have noticed while driving on the interstate an annoying, high pitch noise while driving. When I take the cruise control off or take my foot off the gas the pitch stops immediately. As soon as I put my foot back on the gas the high pitch noise comes back immediately. The noise is one where, if you are not paying attention it doesn't bother you, but as soon as you become aware of the problem it gets annoying. It seems to be coming from the back but it is hard to pinpoint. It is loud enough where you have to turn up the radio to drown it out. The noise only occurs when the accelerator is pressed.

mitzij

1. No. Brake pads should be replaced with about 2mm or 3mm left. (not sure on conversion to inches, but .063 sounds pretty thin) What do the front pads look like? I don't like the sound of that rear brake cable or the control arms or ball joint.
If you're not a car dealer, it doesn't matter how safe the car is-you'll be selling it 'As-Is'
2. I don't know how thick they start out, but 7 or 8 mm is plenty of pad, 4-5 is getting thin and 2-3 is replacement time.
3. Depends on how much play there is, but it's not safe to drive a car with excesse play.

4. For sale value-buzz on over to Real World Trade In Values and ask a very helpful guy named Terry (rroyce10)

5. I wouldn't drive it if I could help it.

Mr_Shiftright

sounds like differential noise if you only get the noise on "pull" ...you might want to check the rear diff fluid or if the noise is severe, have it checked out on a lift.

3rovers

what happened? I was recommended to a new landrover mechanic because I had JUST a headlight problem. After a few hundred dollars for a new switch.. I left done???? But as I was leaving the mechanic told me that I had a serious life threatening problem... That the squeak when I turned my wheel sometimes could make my car sudenly run off the road or wose into someone if I didnt SOON replace my complete track rod and drag link for $425.

Oh no,, my childrens lives are at risk,,, please take my $425 and fix it!!! BUt after he finished and I parked the car I noticed a leak on my garage floor? Is it oil? Is it antifreeze? I called them and they said that they had no idea. That week as I drove my car was shaking! Shaking with the accelaration!! Is this a conscience? I returned the next week and he said it was my drive shaft and he could fix it then for $190. Okay .. but what about the leak? He said it was antifreeze and hed needed 2 days to repair it? He just faxed me the estimate.. $3500! What?
New hydrolic lifer/machine shop cylinder head/gasket manifold /gasket valve cover rocker/valley end clam??? the list goes on.. Is this possible. I would love ANY ADVICE!
Thank you
Jackie

catzr800

Looks like the rear air shocks are junk on our 2000 Yukon XL with
Autoride...... any idea where I can get a set of rear air shocks (part #
22187160) for less than what the dealer wants for them???

A good used set wouldn't be out of the question either....... probably best
for a Yukon with 70,000 miles on the clock.....

Jeff B In Maine

yolonda

Can anyone tell me is there a place under the hood to add powersteering fluid, my boyfreind says no it has to be taken to a dealer. Car has the sound of being low on power steering fluid,makes a loud whining noise when you turn the wheel.

burdawg

There's a resevoir for the fluid on the power steering pump under the hood. What he may mean though is that you need to take it in to find out where the fluid is going, more than likely it's leaking.

Mr_Shiftright

too complicated for me to comment on. I would get a second opinion somewhere else on all of this stuff.

limodiva

washer fluid pump stopped working replaced pump and multifunction switch still does not work any suggestions

djslide

I have a 1984 volks rabbit I have fuel injectors that are diff than any I have seen can some one help I need to know where to put the new orings on (past the metal ring toward threaded end on the shaft or before the metal ring on the shaft). there is something strange with my fuel injectors if you know volks and you know what fuel injectors look like you will know whats up as soon as you see the pic.
http://img202.imageshack.us/my.php?image=strangefuelinjector3rw.jpg

capnron

You should Run, not walk away, from this shop as fast as you can. You must be a woman or elderly? BOTH. If you are a male (35 - 50) shame on you. Demand to be kissed when you get "had". Take it to a Dealership, don't tell them what this mechanic told you... only that you want to know where the coolant leak is coming from.

Buy a factory service manual and replace/repair little things yourself. You have enough sense to get on line and find this site then you should have enough sense to repair little things AND be able to troubleshoot problems with the help of a factory manual. Good Luck, CapnRon

ryanfiala81

I was instructed by the host of the Buick LeSabre forum to forward my post here. Here goes!

I have posted this message in Maintenance & Repair forums, as well, but thought that maybe LeSabre experts might have some thoughts on my car's problems.

I'm a frequent poster on Edmunds, but have never had one as crazy as this. My '97 LeSabre's check engine light came on a few days ago. The car ran well enough with it on for a few days. The light even went off briefly. However, this morning, the light had returned, and the car refused to shift out of first gear. Additionally, the input to the pedal did not directly correlate with the motor's reaction. Strangest was my fuel gauge, which now randomly meanders between 1/2 tank and empty and settles for awhile before wandering again (I have a little bit less than a half tank remaining). I took it to a local auto parts store where they ran the trouble codes. TPS was listed as one of the codes, and so I replaced it. The car now idles well enough, but still refuses to shift out of first, and the TPS trouble code refuses to be erased when clearing codes with the OBD II. The clearing of the codes appears to have settled my idle, and replacing the TPS has made my pedal input better correlate with the motor's reaction. Additionally, the fuel gauge problem appears to have righted itself, but the car still won't shift out of first.

My friend suspects the problem lies in my Electronic Control Module, but he admits he doesn't know GMs all that well. I have the following questions:

- Does anyone else think this is the likely culprit?
- Would a repair shop be able to use their Snap-On Diagnostics to better pinpoint the problem?
- Is there any sort of traceable relay that might be fouled between the computer and the transmission?
- How likely is it that the problem resides in the transmission (I had it flushed a little more than a year ago)?

I appreciate any thoughts on what's ailing my car. Thanks.

stickguy

You are right that it could be a number of things, and may not be easy to diagnose. You really need someone with all the right tools to check it out.

A good indy shop might have the electronics to do the job, but in some cases, IMHO, you are better off at the dealer since they have the vehicle specific tools and software, and access to the GM tech lines, so they have a better chance of geting to the root cause. Might even be cheaper to have them diagnose, if they can do it in much less time.

highroller

First, would it cause more damage to the drive train, engine, tranny, braking components, etc if...lets say my car rear ended someone or if my car GOT rear ended?

The reason i asked because i got rear ended yesterday by some idiot tail gater. I was at a stop at a red light and the car probably was going 35 and slowed down too late and hit my rear bumper. My truck seemed to move a little but not alot. Im concerned about the potential damage/strain that this may have caused on my tranny and other internal components regarding the performance of my new truck. Im really devastated as of right now but was hoping to get some quick opinions from here. I will get the bumper replaced. It just has a big dent on it but i dont think it will fall off anytime soon.

headcarve34

Just last week I had my left rear wheel bearing replaced and I replaced my left front axle on my '97 Subaru Outback. Since then the ABS kicks in at low speeds below 5mph. It seems like just the ABS on the front wheels is kicking in. Could the speed sensors on these two wheels on the left cause this? Is there a way to see if the speed sensors are faulty or just installed improperly? I'm trying to avoid going to the dealer because I don't have enough money. Thanks for the help.

Mr_Shiftright

I think you have to check speed sensors with a special tool unfortunately.

pennymb

Having a bad hair day and a blonde moment, at the same time! Needed a little gas to get from point A to point B, we all drive ALOT of miles, so we look for the best prices! I put 2 gallons diesel in the car, fiance flipped- filled the car with Supreme- the light was on, so how much damage have I really done? I have driven 200 miles with no problem, but I still have nearly 1/2 tank left.. What should I do? When you first start it, it does hesitate, but after that it is fine...
Any suggestions?
Don't ask how I did it- it can be done- after 20+ years driving, I did it!
Thank you for your quickest responses.
Have a great day!

Mr_Shiftright

I wouldn't worry about it...fill up again...and when that tank's drained, swap out your fuel filter and add some fuel injection cleaner. Is your check engine light on?

pennymb

no the light has not come on and stayed, it has flashed once or twice this week, but that's all..
Thank you again and have a great day!

macdjm

were is the turn signal flasher on a 1993 deville??

collin_ph

My 2004 Taurus just started beeping while I was driving today, and now says (on the computer screen) that each door is ajar, and that the decklid is ajar. I now cannot lock or unlock the doors (or open the trunk) using the switches in the car (however the remote entry keyfob still works fine for the doors and trunk).
I checked a couple of fuses, but have not yet checked the GEM fuses.. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Joe.

digreiner

How common would be the need to replace parking brake pads? I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe with 75000 miles and my mechanic replaced the rear brakes and parking brake pads. My husband says that parking brakes should never have to be replaced.

dave8697

Have CEL on since bought 98 mustang V6 auto. Had code read as P0171 at auto parts store. Have searched web sites and done a lot of checking on the car. Managed to get light to go off for about 100 miles one time last summer. Things done so far: check routing of O2 sensor wires, sprayed tuner spray on MAF wires, changed crankshaft position sensor, replaced air filter and cleaned entire duct and screens, changed spark plugs, put in new battery, checked all vacuum lines I can get to, and replaced the one from the intake tube to the intake manifold, which was deteriorated, ran injector cleaner and changed oil twice in the first 4000 miles.
I read that it could be the vacuum leak at the line that has a 90 degree fitting into the intake manifold, but this is not accessible because of the aluminum intake runner that overhangs it. I can't even see under there. The car runs very good, and has improved with all the stuff I did. It recently got 30 mpg on a highway trip. It is rated at 27 hwy.
The day the light went out was after changing the vac tube and ran it 100 miles on the highway with injector cleaner in it. It came on the next day. Still the same code.
I heard that O2 sensor replacement may not fix, or if it does, it doesn't last.
Should I quit worrying about the CEL due the car running good?

mazda626atx

Did you ever clear the codes? Sometimes they stay in memory and confuse PCM or whatever you have in your car? I have replaced a MAF that cleared a O2 code in my Mazda which is a ford actually.
I can not emphasize enough the relationship between one sensor and any other sensor in the car causing CEL. My car ran fairly well but progressively worse for 2 1/2 years till it deteriorated to very bad . I found the culprit and changed MAf but code for O2 was the only one remaining in memory.

Now running like a top without replacing O2 sensor and clearing all codes!
Firm beleiver in clearing al the codes
Good Luck
PGP

collin_ph

I did check the GEM fuses, and several other fuses today, and no dice-- all the fuses appear fine. Any suggestions anyone?

alcan

GM has issued a technical service bulletin to their dealers re premature wear of the parking brake shoes on light duty trucks. I don't have the TSB number handy, but the gist of it is to replace the parking brake shoe hold-down springs to prevent the shoes from dragging on the inside of the rotors.

alcan

Not sure if this applies to yours, but earlier Fords have had a problem with the door ajar switches sticking open. The switches are built into the door latches, and a healthy dose of WD40 or equivalent into the latches usually frees the switches. Most common for sticking is the driver's door switch.

280ce81

1981 mercedes 280 ce...the owners manual states that this car has a FOUR SPEED automatic transmission. Is this 4 forward speeds? The reason I ask is that it shifts to 3rd at about 30 and seems the rpms are pretty high at 65-70 mph. Could linkage/vacuum leak be at fault since I just had used engine installed? Thank you!

Mr_Shiftright

Your tachometer should show about 3100-3200 rpm at 62 mph.

Yes you have a four forward speed automatic and you should be able to go from 0-60 in about 11 seconds.

I think you do have a vacuum controlled shifting mechanism so yeah, a vacuum leak might hold you in a lower gear.

But check the tachometer readings, that'll tell you.

twostirish222

I am having an issue when starting my car. I have noticed the last few weeks when I attempt to start the car I get something like a loud sound from the ignition with a pause and then it starts. (This is not all the time. Sometimes it starts just fine)

Today I tried starting the car and it didn’t want to turn over it had a hesitation with some noise and finally started. I have a 2003 Saturn Vue. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

mazda626atx

Try this site.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/forum-view.asp?fid=10

PGP

zbolin

Hello all,
I am contemplating whether or not to buy my friends 94 camaro 2 door coupe. It is in good physical condition but it has 130,000 miles and eats up oil. Is this a bad decision? And how many miles does a camaro usually reach if taken good care of?

missouguy

Hello:

I have a problem with my fuel gauge. When it gets below 1/2 a tank it goes crazy. It will show low and the chime will go off, then in a couple of blocks it will show a full tank. Then back down and so on. I think the sending unit is bad and I can replace it, but for over 200 bucks I would like a second opinion. As long as it has over half a tank it is fine.

Thanks

Frank

weekend

Looking for suggestions! I have a 1996 LHS with 87000 miles. Last winter and again this winter I have a problem starting the engine when the ambient temp is below 25 degrees. The engine cranks fine but won't fire over. If I hold the gas pedal down it will "pop like it is backfiring and some times start. This may take several trys or not work at all. If I wait for the temperature to reach 30 degrees it starts fine. Once started even when I had trouble, it will start all day without any more issues? I have replace a defective oxygen sensor and the mass flow sensor without improvement. Help!

cob

If is has the V6 stay away. They are prone to intake gaskets leaking coolent into the oil. The 3.4 v6 at 130,000 is out of life.

burdawg

That sounds typical. I had one for years, it starts in second gear under most conditions, when you think it's shifting into 3rd it's probably 4th. The 2.8 is a high reving engine, what shifty says for rpm's sounds about right to me. When accelerating onto the freeway I used to drop it into S which will hold it in 3rd until you shift up to D and go to 4th. Mine would cruise very nice at 110mph but would be near the redline. A euro version engine with the cam timing differences will have more power, about 30-40hp if I remember right.

jfeisthamel

How do I install a new hazard light switch in a 1997 Chevy Venture? It is a one piece unit with the directional. The switch is located on the steering column... and it has cruise control. Anyone know?

Mr_Shiftright

don't buy it. These cars are cheap and plentiful when in good shape. If it had a really mint body and was perfect in every way except the engine, well maybe MAYBE it would pay to put a crate motor in it, but otherwise, why bother?

Camaros are cheap to fix but always need fixing when they get old. It's not the sturdiest piece to come out of Detroit and the miles are about enough for the life of the car.

user777

a good line: "cheap to fix but always need fixing"... someone should start collecting these somewhere.

bolivar

Sounds like the sender unit to me.

As you probably know, these usually are inside the fuel tank, which on many cars has to be dropped to get to it.

Ask if the $200 get a new sender and fuel pump. The fuel pump is probably also inside the tank. If you are paying for the labor to drop the tank, I would put a new fuel pump in at the same time.

On some units, the sender and pump are one replacement unit, so they will be replace together anyway. But ask before having it done.

missouguy

You're right. Everything is one unit, thanks Buick, and is in the tank. One lucky thing, there is a hatch in the trunk to give access without dropping the tank. This I can do myself.

Thanks for the reply.

Frank

twmark

Who many miles can I expect from my brakes?

qbrozen

If you are talking about a 911 at the track ... maybe 1k miles?

If you are talking about a BMX used on weekend jaunts through the park ... let's say 20 years?

For an automatic Corolla driven by Aunt Millie to the store and church .... 50k miles?

Mr_Shiftright

Like he said, no way to know. Anything from 20K on up for front brakes is normal,depending on use, type of car and your good (or bad) driving habits. San Francisco taxicabs? Every 6 weeks!

I sometimes follow an SUV down the mountain on which I live and I know his brakes will be shot very soon and he'll wonder why.

oldsboy

I've just recently replaced the computer in my 90 cutlass supreme. 2 days later i've got more problems. car is is idling funny in gear and then stalls. brought it back and the mechanic hooked it up to the computer and decided that the o2 sensor needed to be changed. worked alright for 4 days and then i noticed the same problem again. brought it to another guy who hooked it up to the computer and thought the engine idle motor (is that the right name?) may need to be replaced. 1st he just cleaned it out and told me to see if that makes a difference. it did for 2 days. brought it back to him (great guy, wasn't even charging me!) and he said that the computer would show something, they'd check it, then the computer would show something else when they hooked it back up. he doesn't wanna go and just change every part with out knowing if it is the main problem (nor do i want him to) has anyone out there dealt with anything like this before????