Got a Quick, Technical Question?

cob

Have you tried both the drivers door switch and the passengers switch when the window wasn't working? It could just be the switch. Usually though, the motors go out and maybe it is on its last leg. Does problem occur after rain storms or washing the car than water may be getting into the motor and then after a few days it dries out and works again?

mazda626atx

Have you tried the BENZ forum. you might get people more familiar with the car than here.
This one is specific for your car

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/forum-view.asp?fid=10

Is this Deja Vu or have we had this conversation before ?
Good Luck

PGP
I am a member in the S class forum and have gotten tons of Benz specific help there

jipster

Thanks cob. I just went out and checked. The drivers side switch wasn't working for passenger side window. When I tried the passenger side switch it wasn't working either. I gave the switch a couple taps with my finger...and viola...it works! Both driver side and passenger switches will now work for passenger window. But, it doesn't seem as strong going up and down as the drivers side window(the seals were wet though). I only went down about a third of the way as I was afraid it may not power back up. So, I guess it may have a loose wire as well as the motor being on its last leg.

burdawg

Instead of a choke, that engine has a cold start valve that allows air to pass the throttle valve when the engine is cold. It's mounted under the intake manifold on the side of the engine. It's hard to get to. It's controlled by the coolant temp. It has two small hoses that run to it, one from before the throttle valve and one after.
I would look at the hoses to see if they have dried out or are loose and are allowing air to leak into the intake.
Funny though, usually the complaint on the six is that it won't idle down when it warms up, not the other way around.

280ce81

Not Deja Vu. You gave me the link and I didn't try it. My bad. Will try to log on as same there, so you'll notice my posts. Thank again. 280

280ce81

Due to location, I can see that those hoses could dry out after, oh, 20 years. Thanks burdawg. I'll check it out! 280

burdawg

I had an 80 280SE that had a similiar problem, but it was such that the idle wouldn't settle after warm up. I found that the valve was stuck in the open position, and when heated up it wasn't closing all the way to block the air bypass. I replaced the valve but couldn't find new hoses, they're custom molded, but I was able to make them work by using wire type clamps (as original) and wrapping some adhesive foam tape around the fittings where they go before putting the hoses on and tightening. If I recall I had to remove the air pump and some other small components to get access to the valve and hoses, and even then it wasn't easy to remove & reinstall the valve.

fear_hope

Can someone help me?! I test drove a Pontiac Vibe with 22000 miles on it today. It is a 2005 and in great shape. However when we checked the tail pipe, wiping inside of it with a paper towel, we picked up a lot of black soot. It was not oily, just very black and sooty. My van is a 1999 and has no soot, just very little light grey, more smokey than sooty. My husbands truck is the same. Is the soot normal for these cars? Do you all have soot in your tail pipes also? If it is not normal are there any mechanics here who can tell me what would cause that? Thanks for the help!

Mr_Shiftright

This question is a duplicate post and is already being addressed in the "How It Works" topic.

Host

1racefan

Putting this here because I didn't see a better place for it....

I just bought a new Honda Element, and the inside of the tailgate is plastic. I bought some really heavy duty indoor/outdoor carpet, and I want to cut a piece to glue to the inside of the tailgate to serve as both a tailgate protector as well to give a little padding when sitting on the tailgate.

I was curious if anyone had any reccomendation as to what brand/type of glue would hold best, could easily be removed down the road, but would not do any damage to the plastic on the inside of the tailgate? I have tried several types 2-sided tape, and none of them will stick to the plastic on the tailgate.

burdawg

Do you mean you want the glue to be easily removed later, or the carpet? If you want the glue to come off easily, that's a tall order.
3M 77 comes to mind for good holding power, but I don't have any experience removing it after it's cured.

1racefan

I want to be able to remove both the carpet and glue later on (return to stock). That is why I was hoping to find a 2-sided tape to stick to the plastic, but believe it or not I have yet to find one that will actually stick to the plastic on the tailgate.

Mr_Shiftright

You can't use glue. You might try a LATEX caulk---test it first on a not-so visible part of the plastic...let it sit for a couple days then peel it off and see how it looks. If it looks okay, then try tacking the carpet down with that..latex is, of course, washable with water---although once it sets it's going to be stubborn to get off as well.

If you want something permanent you can always try to glue down some thin, very hard rubber matting that they use in restaurant kitchens for people to walk on.

1racefan

I will try the latex caulk I believe.

I had also thought about trying to apply spray on truck bedliner to the tailgate, but I am not sure how that stuff adheres to plastic. Before I do anything permanent, I am going to get a quote on replacing the inner tailgate panel as a worst case scenario.

Mr_Shiftright

I'm no chemist but I think any kind of real glue is going to bond to the plastic, forever.

user777

if it were me - i think i'd use one of those rubber welcome mats with the astroturf-like topside material. when i wanted to use the vehicle in that mode, i'd just unroll that material.

i *WOULD NOT* do what you are planning to do.

ok - but it's not me - its you: i'd consider getting the velcro tape available in rolls at Home Depot or Lowes, applying one side (probably the cloth side) to the plastic parts, and the other to the underside of the indoor/outdoor carpet.

stever

The back of the velcro is going to have adhesive on it as well.

You might think about using some self tapping screws. I used some to put some pad eye straps (aka D rings) in my minivan and they have held fine in the plastic for 7 years now.

When you decide to trade or need to trash the carpet, you can just put the screws back in the holes and they wouldn't be too noticeable.

Steve, Host

fozman6823

I'm a college student in the automotive program and i have a term paper on o2 sensors and i was wondering if there was anyone out there that could help me out in why you cant use $20 sensors in place of $200 sensors and a $200 sensor in place of a $400 sensor i know it has to do with material they are made of but i need more info than that for a paper so any help would be very greatful tank you

flytedhy

Engine oil was about 1/4 to 1/2" above the full mark. For how long I dont know since I think the dealer added oil to a hot engine and created this scenario. I assume it was about a month and maybe 1k miles. I removed about 3/8 quart and brought it back below full. I did notice engine colored foam on the oil filler cap(on the underside) and small amounts of foam inside the oil filler area. Was this enough of an issue to cause engine damage. I would think besides the poor lubrication of the foaming, the engine will most likely survive. Anyone have experience in this area?

Thanks

highroller

can anyone tell me if most modern vehicles like my 06 nissan titan can take advantage of using higher octane gasoline? i've been doing alot of research and cant seem to find any information. I read on my manual that it calls for 87 but i wanted to see if i can use premium from time to time to "clean" out my fuel injectors.

bolivar

All grades of gasoline have Federal govmnt mandated amounts of injector cleaner chemical that will keep your injectors 'clean'.

You are going to waste your money putting higher octane gasoline in an engine where 87 octane is recommended.

user777

this may be of some help:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question257.htm
and specifically the patents called out in same (at the bottom).

where does one find a $20 oxygen sensor?

Mr_Shiftright

that small amount of overfill won't hurt anything. it would have had to have been a couple of quarts over.

The colored foam on the filler cap is normal condensation, don't worry about it. What you DON'T ever want to see is that kind of colored foam under a valve cover or in the oil itself.

Water vapor is a natural by-product of the combustion of gasoline...if you run out the chemical formula for the combustion process, you will see H20 in the string in fairly large amounts, proportional to the volume of gasoline burned.

motownguy

Here's the problem:
We have a 1992 Ford Taurus with the 3.0 engine, with 80,000 miles. The fuel pump quits out of the blue, for no apparent reason, causing the engine to quit. It can, and does quit at any time, with no notice, which means that we can't use the car. It usually starts back up after sitting for a few minutes, but I don't know if my playing around with the wires to the inertia switch in the trunk has anything to do with it starting again or not. I have changed the switch, but that did not solve the problem. When the pump runs, it seems normal, with no unusual sounds or anything. I kind of think that there is a bad ground somewhere, and that the power to the pump is getting interrupted. Is there a fuel pump relay somewhere that I can check? Any other ideas? Maybe someone out there has experienced this same problem and can help me out with this. Thanks, Motownguy.

jipster

Just had coolant flush and fill on 99 Buick Regal(68,000 miles) about 2 months ago. In checking under filler cap today noticed some light brown "gunk" on underside of cap and around top of filler neck. This was noticeable before flush as well. Also, coolant level(Dexcool) about 12oz under "cold". Any ideas? Thanks.

tigercat21

It could be that your fuel pump is bad. I've heard of people saying they had problems just as your having now and the pump evenutally quit for good. Sometimes the pump went bad and car restarted later, worked for maybe 2 weeks or so and then quit for good.

Don't forget that the pump requires gasoline to keep it cool and people that keep there gas tanks above half way mark have the best luck with making there pumps last. Of course no part lasts forever and yours has certainly lasted you very well.

imidazol97

12 ox under

I'd refill with car cold and sitting in a usual spot. Recheck in 1 week cold in same spot. Sometimes air bubbles work out after a drain of coolant. For my car after refill when thermostat is open hot, they say to rev motor to 2500 rpm 5 times for short period. That would be what happens when yo make a fast takeoff. That probably has burped air out of system.

But you might take the top motor cover off and do a flashlight look on intake manifold edges and all around hoses for leak.

Gunk inside cap.

That happens because of moisture in oil condensing on the cooler filler cap. Clean it and watch.

jneal

I believe there is a relay but not being familiar with that vehicle I can't tell you where it is located.
Go to Auto Zone website and you can look up the part and use their part locator and it will tell you where the part is located.

mlr1

We have a '97 camry and recently had to have the front axle replaced due to worn boots. When the dealer replaced the axle they tore the transmission seal, used the old housing in the right side of the axle and did not put it in fully on that side. They fixed the seal and supposedly fixed the right axle. Now we are experiencing a clicking noise while driving and grease is dropping out of that area. Does anyone know if this could be related and/or what it could be?

Mr_Shiftright

bring it back to the dealer imediately.

cob

Looks like you are at the beginning of a leaking intake gasket. Look for signs of water in the oil(white milky substance), under the oil fill cap, inside the valve cover where the cap is, and the pvc filter. If you have only lost 12oz it's probably not to bad yet. If it is leaking it will get worse over time. Refill the level and keep an eye on it.

imidazol97

IF your oil doesn't have a milky look rather than clear and normal color with use, then you might have some water getting into the oil. But it will show.

Otherwise I still suggest refilled to a reproducible cold fill mark and watching for a week.

Remove the cover on the motor, the beauty cover, and look all around the intake to lower metal intake contact and all around the throttle body contact with the intake to see tracks of antifreeze having seeped and dried.

Also check very carefully with a mirror under the water pump inside the pulley for the same. If the water pump hasn't been replaced, that would be a prime suspect first.

If you've not owned the car since new, you can read the date stamp on the plastic intake manifold to see if it has already been replaced.

Which antifreeze have you used in it? DexCool. Has it or the other been changed every two years? DexCool left in too long has been suspected as a problem.

Re filler cap: I can go to my 98 leSabre right now and see signs of moisture on my filler at 135000 miles. I wouldn't get excited unless I cleaned it an it reappeared and if I see a slight milk chocolate/milky look start in oil.

jeepman3

I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon with a DOHC and automatic transmission. I've replaced the front engine mount and both side mounts and continue to have a clunk when moving the selector. The engine and transmission can be seen moving. I rencently also replace the entire front mount assembly.

rottndawg13

i just put on a new head on a 89 dodge spirit 2.5 4cyl and it wont start i double and tripple checked the timing set up its right got fule got fire but wont hit a lick i need some help here....ANYBODY?????

vnillawafa

the noise occurs at a cold idle or as you shift into drive or reverse,

crankshaft

I would do a compression check.

brianz28

okay i have a 1995 camaro z28 and it has 34,000 miles. now in the back there is a churping sound when you drive. but when you put the brakes on it starts to go away but as soon as you let off churp, churp , churp.also when you make a sharp left turn a sort of metal on meatl grinding noise starts up.but when you straighten it out just starts to churp.i have replaced the rotor's , brake pads, coil springs,shocks, and have tighted the exhaust but the noise just wont go away. and i have tryed to put a sort of brake bad lube on the pads and it just dampened the noise but you could still hear it. PLEASE give any suggestions all take any i just am running out of money and im getting very fed up with it. thnk you

280ce81

Ditto advice to check compression. Also, it may seem obvious, but...make sure that you have NEW spark plugs, and double, triple check firing order against how your plug wires are routed, distributor to plug. A little carb cleaner or WD-40 sprayed into intake manifold may remind the engine what is expected of it!
280

alenabubs

We purchased a new 2003 MPV ES in May, 2004. The car now has approx. 9,000 miles. About a month ago, we had a routine oil change at a local Mazda dealership. After that, we noticed a ticking noise in the engine and brought it back to the dealer for service. They changed the oil again and said to come back if it still made noise. The noise continued, so we brought it back again last week.

First the technician said it could be the lifters/valves, but later, on the invoice, he wrote "retorqued cam caps." I understand this is not the same thing, but the engine is STILL making that noise.

I feel like maybe I'm being a little picky, but that noise doesn't sound right to my husband or me. There was also a reference to a bulletin number in the invoice. Is this indicative of some type of recall -- in other words, has this been a common problem with the MPVs? We've had so many issues already with this car that I wouldn't be surprised -- we've been really disappointed with the amount of time this two-year-old car has already spent at the shop due to various issues.

Anyway, any advice you could give would be appreciated. Thanks!

qbrozen

my advice? its under warranty, so keep on them until they fix it. And, since they are admitting the sound is not right, you are NOT being too picky.

katewa

Last Friday I got caught in a minor flash flood and my 2000 Chrysler T&C stalled out in about 2-3 feet of water. When I got it pushed to high ground, it started right up and everything seemed OK. We didn't drive it for about four days - just kept it in the garage with a dehumidifier and fans running to dry it out. Well, when I drove it yesterday to the shop to get the brakes looked at, I found the electrical system was doing funny things (ex: if the headlight switch is on auto and I try to turn on the dash lights, all the the lights blink repeatedly; while accelerating, the door auto-lock engages continually, the door ajar light comes on as well as all of the interior lights). Question: could it be that the system hasn't dried out completely (I live a humid location) and will be OK once it does, or do you think it needs to go to the shop?

Thanks in advance

bolivar

2-3 feet of water?

In my opinion, this is enough water to be defined as 'flood car'. Flood cars should be salvaged. In other words, your insurance company should total the car out and pay you for it.

If you keep it, expect to see these kinds of electrical problems for the life of the car.

katewa

Thanks for responding. I never realized that amount of water could get a car totaled. Hardly any water got into the interior. I just went out and measured the height to the top of the front bumper (which is about how high the water got) and it is two feet. I just hate to have to file an insurance claim due to the way the insurance companies have gotten about claims. Guess I should call my agent and see what the best course of action is. I definitely don't want to have a car that will no longer be reliable. As it is right now we can't drive it at night. Bummer.

surf55

Is it safe to use a place like a Jiffy lube for transmission fluid change or would you reccommend going somewhere else

katewa

I sent a message last week about electrical problems after a flood. Well, it appears that the battery isn't charging so either 1)the battery is shot (it's a 3 year old Interstate but I drove it around for about six months missing half the caps - don't know if this can cause battery to fail) or 2)there is a problem with the charging system.

So, what I am wondering is if a low battery can cause some of the erratic electrical problems I've been having since the van went in the water (see message #2596 for reference).

I'm still waiting on the Insurance Adjuster. With all the rain & flooding we had in Hawaii the last six weeks, I think they are pretty busy. Still hoping the van doesn't get totaled but it may be unavoidable. The interior is really starting to smell so I know there is mold/mildew growing in places we couldn't reach. It's just a bummer.....

marces

I have a 2001 Porsche Boxster and just bought it, its beautiful, BUT WHEN I HAVE A FULL RIGHTHAND LOCK ON AND REVERSE I GET A CLICKING NOISE. This car has has a FULL RAC check pre-Purchase and also a new MOT on day of purchase so I am hopping it is nothing serious. Is this a normal noise?

Please help someone

Marces

ravonajean

Serpentine belt broke, when replaced the radio and air condition no longer working. Figured out how to reset radio, but have had no luck with the air conditioner. Any suggestions?

bulbull

have 1997 Nissan Maxima GLE. Failed inspection because the rear right brake had no pressure. I pulled out the the caliber and tried to turn it in. It was impossible. I used the proper tools. But it would not budge. Help. I have the caliber out and in a vise. I cut the rubber seal around the piston. I am wondering how to get it out.?
ANY ONE Take a shot at this? Thanks

burdawg

The common way is to use air pressure from a compressor into the piston (through the connection for hose) to push it out. If it won't come out easy though replace the caliper.

sandman46

This was on for the past 4 days on my 2003 Sentra. When the dealer started it yesterday morning, no light and they said there was no code to read. After 2 days with them, light never returned. Got the car back this evening after the 4th time in the shop. They reprogrammed the computer last Monday, as they said Nissan sent a TSB to the dealership that didn't turn up in the list I printed from the internet from the Highway Safety government site. A master mechanic friend said that if the light was on, there should be a code in the cars computer.
Who's right and who's wrong here. The warranty runs out May 28th and then I'm stuck.
HELP!!!!!

The Sandman :confuse: