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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
It may be as simple as the wrong type of after-market key!
Think simple first and then go complex.
that make the computer send more gas i put new plugs cap and rotor
and wires and it runs so rough and lots of black smoke from the muffler, firing order is fine, could the egr be bad? or the convertor, i tapped the convertor, sounds a little hollow, and muffler too...
tailpipe..please help
MATTHEW A. GAUCI
THANKS,
MATT
If so, this is a usual Ford trick. The rear drum brakes rust up very quickly and will 'grab' for the first stop.
On my Ranger, I just aways 'rode' the brake for about 100 feet when first starting off. This knocks off the rust and heats up the drums and they will not grab.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 92 Dodge Spirit and I do not know what is wrong with it. When I accelerate from a complete stop the front end vibrates. It almost like the front tires are slipping or someone thought my transmission is slipping. It only does it when I start from a complete stop. If I baby it and take off slowly it will not do it. I had it in the shop and they could not get the car to have the problem. They checked out the transmission and said that the fluid was good .. not burnt ... clean. They did say an engine mount was broke and that it needed a good tune up (which it did). They said it was possible the engine mount was giving me the vibration but without feeling the problem themselves they could not say it for sure. I read on the internet and found that engine mounts could cause vibration so I went ahead and had them fix it. Well, as you can imagine, the day after picking it up I am still having the same problem
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
I am hoping it is not the transmission because the car is not worth a new one and I am not wanting to buy another car right now.
Thanks for any help you can provide
Someone needs to test the fuel pressure. At least, turn the key to ON, not START. Listen for the fuel pump to start up. You might need a helper to stand by the rear of the car near the tank to listen for the pump. You usually can hear the pump run.
When the key is turned on, the pump, if it is working, will run for only 2 or 3 seconds. The system is then pressurized, and a pressure sensor cuts the pump off.
But, after sitting for a while, the pump should run when you turn the key to ON. If the pump cannot be heard running, this is more evidence it pump has failed.
I helped him trouble shoot it. A web note had said that tapping on the bottom of the tank - I used a rubber mallet- often will make a bad pump start up. It did, but would never run the car for more than 10 seconds at most. So we dropped the tank and replaced the pump. $400 for pump-GM at reduced price at dealer. Another neighbor with lots of shade tree mechanic experience said not to use an aftermarket. Luckily this tank only had a few gallons of gas in it so it wasn't as heavy to lower.
The car had sat with minimal fuel in it and had been driven low most of the time. It had been his dad's car and he died shortly after purchasing the car.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You have to remove the big, usually black intake tube into the upper intake manifold. Then you see a big butterfly valve in there. It probably is gunked up and should be cleaned. It will take a good quality carb cleaner, your toothbrush, and some rags or paper towels.
Spray, scrub/brush, wipe, repeat. Get the 'back' side of the valve also. Get the area where the valve seats when closed. Spray, scrub/brush, wipe, repeat.
Yes, if you can locate and remove the MAF, at this age it could probably also stand a cleaning. DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER!. Buy 'electrical' cleaner. A MAF has very small fragile wire/wires in it. BE CAREFUL. Squirt electrical cleaner on the wires only. DO NOT TOUCH THEM!
Oh, yes. Buy a new toothbrush.
(Ha! I love that joke! I love it when I tell people how to clean a throttle plate! Ha!)
((No, I don't get out much...))
But first - check that the floor mat isn't rolled up over the accelerator. And anything else is binding the throttle linkage.
When replacing a TPS (I am asking in general, but in this case it is for an '02 Hyundai Elantra), is it simply a matter of unplugging the old one, and hooking up the new one? From the looks of it, it looks like you would just unhook the wiring harness that goes from the TPS to the ECM, then unbolt the TPS from the throttle body, then bolt on the new TPS, and lastly rehook the wiring harness.
My question is if anyone here has replaced a TPS in the past, does it typically require any kind of a software reboot, or is it simply a matter of swapping out the part? The car has no error code or anything to reset, I have just been told that the TPS is the culprit of my problem.
After my car ('93 Sentra) was sitting in garage for 3 weeks, the brakes seemed to be stuck. When I moved gear lever from "P" to either "R" or "D", the car simply wouldn't move. It looked like the brakes were stuck. After pressing on accelerator pedal a few times, the car finally moved (with loud "bang" sound from the wheels). It looks like the brekes are working now, but I'm kind of concerned is there a possibility something was damaged in the process of getting brakes unstuck forcefully. I'm planning to get the brakes checked out by mechanic, however also wanted to ask couple of questions about this on the forum. Anybody had any similar experience? Should I expect the same problem each time I'm not using the car for several weeks? Is there some better way to unstuck the brakes other than forcing it? Anything I can do before leaving car parked for extended periods of time (several weeks or more) to avoid the problem from repeating? Anything I can do to check if something is damaged?
OTOH, if you have disc brakes, if the calipers are rusted or frozen, thay may cause the problem and may require rebuild or replace...
Unless you KNOW what you are doing, I would take it to a shop for checkout...nothing is more important than reliable stopping power...:):):):):)
I have a small typo in my original post, it's 03 Sentra, not 93. So "only" 3 years old. Last time brakes were checked out, sometime last winter, the technitian estimated pads will be good at least for another two or three years. The car has drums on the rear. The parking/emergency brake was not applied (the car was parked in garage, on level surface), and the weather was relatively warm (so there couldn't be any freezing).
There was no rust on the front brakes when I left it parked, however some rust (not much) formed during 3 weeks it was sitting in the garage (something I expected and experienced with other cars too).
It's worse when the weather is warm and when it gets bad, the brake pedal gets hard to press.
Could this be the master cylinder?
GM Power schematic 4-41 shows "starter enable relay" as input to Pass Key Decoder Module. I wonder if that relay might be problem. Comments? Better ideas? Where is that enable relay located, what does it look like, how access?
When you turn to crank three times and the security chip isn't being read by the two contacts inside the key cylinder, the car is locked for 3-4 minutes. That means a thief can have the key shapes and make another key, but they have to guess which of the 20 or so resistors is in the key; they can't make 20 keys and test each, because the delay makes it inconvenient to test, wait, test, wait.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The filthy coolant suggests either a clogged radiator or head gasket issue OR...another possibility...a cracked radiator internally allowing transmission fluid to enter the coolant, also clogging things up completely.
if your wheel is adjustable up/down like my ODY and Accord, I would try re-adjusting the wheel height.
if you hear the sound, i would verify it isn't your keys in the ignition banging against the column or dash.
i would check to see if adjusting the High/Low and turn signals do anything.
if you can reliably get the noise, ask someone else to drive as you listen from the passenger seat. sound localization can be tricky and often changing your position in the cabin results in new clues to the source of the sound.
good luck
If the coolant is low in the radiator, you need to find the reason? Leak somewhere?
The thermostat is where the radiator hose goes to the top of the engine. It will usually be held on by two bolts. The seal around the thermostat may be a rubber seal or maybe a gasket between the thermostat cover that comes off with two bolts or both. The motor needs to be cool and some of the coolant will overflow if you don't drain a lilttle out of the radiator before opening the thermostat housing.
What kind of driving were you doing when the overheating occurred? The electric fans that help cool the radiator when the temperature goes up and when the air conditioning is turned on may not be working...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
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