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There is a process to override the solnoid that locks the shifter - to usually be used when the solnoid fails. But, if the solnoid is on the same circuit as the brakes, the fuse blowing would also shut down the solnoid.
Basically, for column shifts there is a small cover on the top of the 'housing' and for console shifts there is a small cover on the console. A small screwdriver can be used to remove this cover. Then, a spare key can be used to push into the hole under the cover, which will unlock the shift interlock. The shift can then be moved out of park.
This is covered in your manual.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Im wondering if it is something I can do. I have NEVER worked on my car before myself, I typically take it into the shop. The problem is at this point I can't afford to take it to the shop.
I have the Chilton book on the car, have the tools, and the parts. It is a 93 Geo Tracker and it does not have an interference engine.
Thoughts? Tips?
My advice? Read the instructions 3 times, take your time and go slow, take pictures (digital) at every step, so when yo have a part that you don't know where it goes, you might find out!
ALways use new gaskets, and change the water pump at the same time. Get bags and a marker, and bag and label all the little parts (nuts/bults, etc.) as they come off.
Most importantly, have lots of beer in a cooler. Trust me on this one.
And finally, if you have a car nut friend, mention the beer and the tools and they should be right over to help!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Some recent history: the last few weeks in GA have been in the low 90s to high 90s, yet my A/C would cool down the car within 5 minutes or so...I ALWAYS have an A/C thermometer stuck in my vent, and it only takes about 2-3 minutes before the air in the duct is blowing at the proper 40 degrees F...
Until today...temp in the 92-95 range, nothing unusual, yet the A/C came on, always set at 70 degrees, and the air after 15 minutes is bouncing between 50-60 degrees, kinda spending more time around 60...
On my drive home, after being on the interstate for 35 minutes, the temp started to drop to 45, and then move up to 50 all within 15 seconds (by glancing over, you can virtually watch the needle move slowly within seconds as the temp changes)...in the past it would just hang at 40 degrees and blow cold air...
At first I suspected a freon R134 leak, but when the temp goes up and down, and does drop to 45 after 35 minutes, could there be something else malfunctioning???
Thanks.
Bob
so my thinking is: if that ain't happening, i could see temp rising everytime you slow down.
i had a '94 accord that started to elevate temp, then when i shut it off, would run the fans continuously. so i figured flakey fan relay. i opened the fuse/relay compartment, found another relay to swap to do a test (in my car, the power window relays happened to be identical to the fan relay so i didn't have to buy anything to do a test), popped it in and voila, problem solved.
i then went to autozone and picked up a relay to replace the power window relay being used now in the fan control circuit.
i don't know if you have the same issue, but - it's possible and worth investigating.
good luck.
let me go out on a limb here ('cause i don't know but you might call an independant or speak with a dealer tech and ask)... i'm thinking the car has a mechanical thermostat for opening and porting the coolant where it needs to flow.
i'm thinking there is a temp measuring unit (engine coolant temperature sensor) which changes electrical characteristics with temperature and feeds the engine/transmission control unit and the meter on the dash.
so one mechanical and one electrical, but don't quote me.
which one did you get replaced?
I really appriecite you helping us , BTW. Your the only person thats even trying and we've posted on several forums. We're trying everything you suggest, so thanks so much.
~ The Kestner Family.
if the vehicle didn't need two fans, it wouldn't have 2 fans. the manufacturer knows best.
i forgot where we are in the diagnosis process. open your fuse/relay center and remove / re-install the fuse relay(s). if there are two, and if they are the same size / number as the power window relays, swap them. swap both of them.
look for any fuses for the fans. a system may have fan relays and fuses to protect the circuit. firmly reseat the fuses, or because they are so cheap, buy what is needed at the automotive parts store and replace.
temp sending unit on the radiator? reseat the wiring to it if it looks like it's wiring connector(s) aren't firmly connected to the sensor.
maybe that sensor has a problem, but my thinking is fan relay or fuse related still.
sorry no one else is helping. me? i'm just a driver like you and your wife. not an expert - but willing to try some stuff. that is all i'm suggesting.
good luck. your next step might be a dealer or another independant mechanic.
Is the radiator original? The coolant is going somewhere. If it's not leaking into the engine or out on the ground then it's boiling over and being released as steam.
Maybe you can help with this ?
MAZDA WELL I CHANGED THE TRANNY SHIFT INHIBITOR ( SENSOR) AND THAT DID NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AT 2 AM THE OTHER NIGHT AND WAS LUCKY TO MAKE IT BACK TO ATHENS FROM THE COUNTRY SIDE. IT WAS ABOUT 180 MILES AND IN 3RD OR 4TH GEAR. I COULD DRIVE THE CAR NONSTOP ACROSS EUROPE. ITS WHEN I NEED TO CHANGE GEARS OR STOP TO PAY A TOLL THAT TRANNY CLUNKS LIKE CRAZY . IT IS GETTING PROGRESSIVELY WORSE.THE MECHANIC WHO DID THE TRANNY REBUILD 5 YEARS AGO,TAKES THE MONTH OF AUGUST OFF LIKE MOST EVERYONE ELSE HERE IN GREECE.
I THINK I WILL BE SCREWED UNTIL HE GETS BACK UNLESS SOME ONE ELSE HAS ANY OTHER IDEAS. I HAVE TO SHIFT INTO LOW OR AT LEAST S TO GET STARTED. DRIVE PRODUCES NOTHING. AFTER GAINING SOME SPEED I CAN SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND IT WILL HOLD OVER 30 MPH OR SO. ANY OTHER THOUGHTS? ONE MAZDA MECANIC SAID IT COULD BE A SIMPLE PROBLEM SENSOR ETC BUT HE WOULD NOT KNOW WHERE TO START LOOKING AT AN AUTOMATIC TRANNY.
THE HOLD LIGHT CAME ON AFTER A FEW BAD SHIFTS AND I AM GETTING NO CODES AFTER CLEARING THAT 133 CODE HERE IN GREECE.
thx
anyway, based on your name and title post, I will assume you are driving a 4-cylinder automatic 626. Notorious for having a bad tranny. Get rid of the car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sorry for the caps. I know the car is a POS but here in Greece repairs are cheaper and cars maintain their value much, much better. I can prolly get a complete tranny rebuild for less than $1000 and then maybe get $3000-$4000 for the car. Aside for the POS tranny which I rebuilt 5 years ago car runs fine at 59K miles and I would like to release the equity in the car if its running well.
Aside from the caps any thoughts about solenoids etc. I can only pull engine codes no tranny codes. There are no (TAT) connectors in the diagnostic control box .
I plan on selling car after repairing tranny !
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thx Peter MAZDA 626 ATX
I'm not good at diagnosing trannies, but since you are getting clunking and lack of shifting rather than slipping or no movement at all, it does sound like you might be able to get away with NOT completely rebuilding the unit. With such low miles after all this time, it could very well be a fluid clogging issue. I gotta wonder if a good cleaning might help.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
When you clean up what exactly do you recommend.Exactly how do you clean it up. Do you mean draining and replacing filter pan etc or something else that can be done without removing tranny ? I have a funny feeling that it is something that is not catstrophic yet , but will become a disaster if not resolved and if the car is driven any more. I have driven 180 babied miles since it occured but as I said its getting worse. Now the hold light is flashing steadily evenr before I put it in gear.
Thx
Peter
A cleaning is typically a flush and fill. I don't even know if that particular vehicle has a tranny pan. Anyway, a flush and fill at a shop only costs $80 here in the states, so it might be worth a shot.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
the is something wrong with the motor mounts....
where would they be and how do i fix it....
if ANY ONE COULD HELP IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
place a Voltmeter across your battery terminals and pull a fuse at a time noting when you get the biggest jump in voltage indicated. replace the fuses after taking the reading.
the one(s) resulting in a good jump are suspicious and should be investigated further.
do you have power windows, seats, seat heaters, a big radio amplifier, etc? i might start with those circuits first.
it's also possible because of mosture or mechanical rubbing, some circuits are being intermittently shorted to ground.
any freys in you wiring harnesses? any buildup of water in proximity to the fuse block(s)?
just a thought.
I have an Express Conversion van that I've had a few episodes of the vehicle not wanting to re-start after having run for a while. The vehicle has about 155,000 miles on it, with the only major repairs being having to have the fuel pump replaced, and the trans repaired/rebuilt.
On four or five occasions, the most recent being last week, I have encountered a problem starting the vehicle after it has been running in hot to very hot weather either after driving a long distance or after driving in slow, congested traffic. After turning off the vehicle for whatever reason (go to a store, stop for gas, etc.), when I try to restart the vehicle, the van turns over and cranks but does not start. While that is attempted, the gas gauge moves from its last point all the way over past the "F" marking ending up at a position that I can describe as "3-O'Clock" if comparing it to a clock. Once the gas gauge needle starts moving past the "F" position, the van will not start.
The van has always re-started after I let it sit and the gas gauge needle returns to its past spot. Most of the time this has taken over an hour.
I'm wondering if anyone out there has experience this scenario and/or can advise me as to what to have checked. Every dealer-service dept. manager seems unsure as to the problem. Some have told me the fuel pump is no good (although I just had it repaired by someone I trust), others have told me that it's an electrical problem, but will not give me a repair price because they claim they don't know how long it will take them to find the problem, but all have seemed clueless as to what the root cause is. I'm awaiting a response from the technical department at G.M.-Detroit and hopefully they will respond because I am now fearful of traveling with this vehicle for fear that I'll get stranded somewhere with my family waiting for a local service person to become educated at my expense.
Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
815-467-1347
Supposedly, it's the rubber bellows inside the booster making the noise. But, since we're on our third replacement so far, I'm beginning to wonder. What else could be causing this noise? If it is coming from the booster, is there anything else that could be causing the booster to make that noise?
It's worse when the weather is warm and when the problem really gets bad, the brake pedal gets hard to press, as if there is a lot of resistance.
Thanks.
Also when I do get around to fixing it I wanted to know how hard it would be to fix the timing belt and replace the water pump and other belts. Can I do it myself or let someone else do it?
Thanks for your help everyone - Just gotta luv this site!
I start to drive the car again, go to shift and when I let the clutch pedal go after shifting, the pedal won't come back to the highest resting position. I can move the pedal up and down with my foot freely, it's essentially limp for the first inch or so from its previous highest seating point (which should be just slightly higher than the brake pedal). I can still shift the gears freely (although I did not take it upon myself to go out driving for tons of miles with my clutch pedal like this and really only drove it for about 2 blocks before I was home, but it did shift into first, second, third and reverse just fine).
I have the Chilton manual, which says the clutch pedal height should not change due to wear in the clutch disc. I am hoping that some type of simple adjustment could be made at this point instead of a complete clutch replacement. The entire clutch assembly was replaced at 122k and it now has 152k (so 30k miles on it). It was an OEM clutch and I know the mechanic did a complete job on it (replaced pressure plate, changed the gear oil, blah blah).
I am wondering what could possibly have caused the pedal to go limp like it has, and what possible corrections you could offer (and no, I do not think some Viagra will do the trick;)
Thanks much.
Thanks for your reply. If I am not mistaken the clutch system in my car is not hydraulic. It seems to have a cable type system that runs from the pedal to some type of adjustment lever. I think then that the lever actuates the clutch. The clutch also seems to have a simple pressure plate and disc type system that is greased. There are some models in the suzuki line that do have the hydraulic clutch but I think mine being a GM badged car doesn't???
I may be off here, but im starting to suspect the cable itself rather than the clutch. If the cable was defective (it has never been replaced and has 152k miles on it) would that present itself in the manner of a limp pedal???
What do you think?
Anyway, if you have a cable system with adjuster, by all means get the proper adjustment on the clutch and see how it feels. You could have too much slack in the cable.
Just about one month ago, I drove into my Goodyear shop for new tires...the OEM tires were Goodyear Eagle LS and lasted 47K miles...rode well and smooth as glass when they were balanced...
When I drove away from Goodyear an hour later, with 4 new Comfort-Tred carbon/kevlar 80K tires, as soon as I drove onto the interstate and hit 45 mph, my seat started shaking, implying rear wheels out of balance...when I reached 55 mph, the steering wheel started to pulsate like the fronts were out of balance...
Stupid me, rather than drive back immediately, I figured maybe the new tires needed some "breaking in" time, so I drove it like that for one week...needless to say, breaking them in did not do anything...
The following week I returned and they re-balanced the tires...while I do not know if they were out of balance when they were spun on the Hunter balance, they were "balanced" on the car when I drove away...the manager at the time mentioned that if they did not perform well, there would be an "adjustment"
The rebalance did not change anything, still rode poorly...I returned the following Saturday, last Saturday, and they exchanged them for 4 new Regatta tires...
As I drove away and entered the interstate, the SAME thing showed up...around 45 mph, the seat shakes like the rears are bad, and about 60 the steering wheel vibrates...the car is in proper alignment...however, it starts to ride quite smoothly at 85 mph, but since I rarely reach that speed, that does me no good...90% of my commuting time is spent in the 45-70 mph range, right where all the problems show up...
I went to another tire dealer Tuesday, thinking maybe Goodyear's Hunter balance was improperly calibrated...the other guys used a just-calibrated Coats Laser balance machine, and I saw all 4 tires balance inboard and outboard to 0.00, perfectly balanced...
Drove away, same exact problem, same speeds...
I realize that there COULD be 2 sets of defective tires, if Good year is having a run that they have not discovered yet (like an auto maker that has not dicovered the defective parts that will cause a recall in the future), but I would think it is unlikely...
The problem was NOT there when I drove in with my old tires, and appeared immediately when I drove out and reached high-speed...naturally, the first thing you assume is out of balance or a bad tire...
BUT WAIT!!!...can anybody think of anything that Goodyear might have done accidentally when they pulled each wheel???...could the lift have struck the driveshaft and dislodged a balancing weight???...could something become loosened like a shock absorber mount (I have rear air suspension)???
Assuming that I don't have the one-in-a-million chance of 2 sets of defective tires, can anyone think of anything else to check???...this is driving me insane...is it possible that only Eagle LS tires will work on this car???...highly unlikely, since this car ahs been around, almost unchanged, for 20-plus years???
Any thoughts, including the ridiculous and the impossible???
Thanks...
i mean a rotor getting warped doesn't happen because the outer part of the radius is deformed directly but indirectly... i'm thinking it follows the deflection of the inner radius closer to the lugnuts, and if that were distorted the wheels wouldn't be in a consistent plane perpendicular to the road surface.
i probably just don't understand it well. sorry.
Have Fun,
buckshot