There is a process to override the solnoid that locks the shifter - to usually be used when the solnoid fails. But, if the solnoid is on the same circuit as the brakes, the fuse blowing would also shut down the solnoid.
Basically, for column shifts there is a small cover on the top of the 'housing' and for console shifts there is a small cover on the console. A small screwdriver can be used to remove this cover. Then, a spare key can be used to push into the hole under the cover, which will unlock the shift interlock. The shift can then be moved out of park.
Well my cars timing belt went and after being blown off by two people who claimed they would change it for $$$$, I am left with a non-working car. I bought the parts already for the other two people to change it.
Im wondering if it is something I can do. I have NEVER worked on my car before myself, I typically take it into the shop. The problem is at this point I can't afford to take it to the shop.
I have the Chilton book on the car, have the tools, and the parts. It is a 93 Geo Tracker and it does not have an interference engine.
Well, give it a try. It isn't running now, so you don't have much to lose!
My advice? Read the instructions 3 times, take your time and go slow, take pictures (digital) at every step, so when yo have a part that you don't know where it goes, you might find out!
ALways use new gaskets, and change the water pump at the same time. Get bags and a marker, and bag and label all the little parts (nuts/bults, etc.) as they come off.
Most importantly, have lots of beer in a cooler. Trust me on this one.
And finally, if you have a car nut friend, mention the beer and the tools and they should be right over to help!
I think I have a problem with my 2004 Crown Vic LX Sport, and it just started this afternoon...my first thought while driving at 70 mph was, I need shiftright!!!
Some recent history: the last few weeks in GA have been in the low 90s to high 90s, yet my A/C would cool down the car within 5 minutes or so...I ALWAYS have an A/C thermometer stuck in my vent, and it only takes about 2-3 minutes before the air in the duct is blowing at the proper 40 degrees F...
Until today...temp in the 92-95 range, nothing unusual, yet the A/C came on, always set at 70 degrees, and the air after 15 minutes is bouncing between 50-60 degrees, kinda spending more time around 60...
On my drive home, after being on the interstate for 35 minutes, the temp started to drop to 45, and then move up to 50 all within 15 seconds (by glancing over, you can virtually watch the needle move slowly within seconds as the temp changes)...in the past it would just hang at 40 degrees and blow cold air...
At first I suspected a freon R134 leak, but when the temp goes up and down, and does drop to 45 after 35 minutes, could there be something else malfunctioning???
I have a 95 Inegra LS , with the 1.8L DOHC , non - vtech motor. Ive only had the car about a month. You can put antifreeze in it and it will be fine for a few days, but then the needle will jump about 3/4 of the way up . If you keep driving it , the needle will jump right back down.It will do this as long as you drive it . When you get home and pop the hood , all of the antifreeze is in the resivoir. Ive heard it could be a cracked head , or head gasket, but there is no water coming out the exhaust. Not even a little bit. I have replaced the thermostat, the temperature sending unit, the cooling fan motor, plugs and wires, and a 1 seal. The car isnt leaking anything, the temperature just goes up and down all day and the fluid is going into the resivoir. Can someone help me please? My husband is stumped , and I have had thoughts about just selling the car, but I love it. If you guys have an idea, please respond.
i'm not sure this would be helpful but, are you sure the fan(s) are comming on? did your husband and you try checking for the fans running? the fact that the vehicle's temp drops when the vehicle is at speed may be indicative of good air flow past the radiator when at speed to dissipate the heat the radiator is exchanging contained in the coolant with the air flowing by the coils, but when the vehicle is stopped or slowing, the fan(s) have to kick in to pull air past the radiator to help dissipate that same heat.
so my thinking is: if that ain't happening, i could see temp rising everytime you slow down.
i had a '94 accord that started to elevate temp, then when i shut it off, would run the fans continuously. so i figured flakey fan relay. i opened the fuse/relay compartment, found another relay to swap to do a test (in my car, the power window relays happened to be identical to the fan relay so i didn't have to buy anything to do a test), popped it in and voila, problem solved.
i then went to autozone and picked up a relay to replace the power window relay being used now in the fan control circuit.
i don't know if you have the same issue, but - it's possible and worth investigating.
thankz man but the cooling fan runs constantly from the time the car starts till you shut it off..we put a new cooling fan motor on it and the guy wired it so it run constantly.i have a prelude where that relay didn't work so i hooked it up on a toggle switch... but this car has plenty of power...even when driving it ...it will sometimes go up.... it goes up to 3/4 way then back down after a few minutes... just long enough fo you to think that it will over heat.... your cooling fans can run up to 15 mins. after the car is shut off... i don't know about any of this but i do know that it is very aggravavting...even when you shut the car off and it says it is overheating... it don't sound like anything is boiling in the radiator....so any suggestions would be greatful.....thank you for your time in reading this and replying ....
i suppose i'd go to a auto parts store, bookstore or library and see if i can find a chilton's or haynes on the integra.
let me go out on a limb here ('cause i don't know but you might call an independant or speak with a dealer tech and ask)... i'm thinking the car has a mechanical thermostat for opening and porting the coolant where it needs to flow.
i'm thinking there is a temp measuring unit (engine coolant temperature sensor) which changes electrical characteristics with temperature and feeds the engine/transmission control unit and the meter on the dash.
so one mechanical and one electrical, but don't quote me.
Sounds like the AC compressor is cycling on and off. Maybe the freon level is a bit low, that's possible...if the pressure drops enough, the compressor will shut down temporarily...that's certainly the first thing I'd check anyway, especially if the AC hasn't been serviced in a couple years.
Hey , thanks so much for replying . We replaced the ( temperture sending unit ) next to the thermostat, but have been told there's another on one of the cooling fans. There are two cooling fans for the motor and none of them were working . We bought a cooling fan motor and took it to a local garage . The guy that installed it said that the other cooling fan wasnt working , but it was" just for the ac anyway". Ive been told since both are supposed to be running though. Why would it have two if it only needed one? We tried to wire the second fan straight to the battery, but it wasnt getting any juice. Any Ideas how to get it working ?
I really appriecite you helping us , BTW. Your the only person thats even trying and we've posted on several forums. We're trying everything you suggest, so thanks so much.
if the vehicle didn't need two fans, it wouldn't have 2 fans. the manufacturer knows best.
i forgot where we are in the diagnosis process. open your fuse/relay center and remove / re-install the fuse relay(s). if there are two, and if they are the same size / number as the power window relays, swap them. swap both of them.
look for any fuses for the fans. a system may have fan relays and fuses to protect the circuit. firmly reseat the fuses, or because they are so cheap, buy what is needed at the automotive parts store and replace.
temp sending unit on the radiator? reseat the wiring to it if it looks like it's wiring connector(s) aren't firmly connected to the sensor.
maybe that sensor has a problem, but my thinking is fan relay or fuse related still.
sorry no one else is helping. me? i'm just a driver like you and your wife. not an expert - but willing to try some stuff. that is all i'm suggesting.
good luck. your next step might be a dealer or another independant mechanic.
I've read your post and the associated replies. When you say the fluid is in the resevoir, do you mean the radiator is empty? If so, I assume your refilling it and then it re-occurs. Is the radiator original? The coolant is going somewhere. If it's not leaking into the engine or out on the ground then it's boiling over and being released as steam.
Hi MR SHIFTRIGHT Maybe you can help with this ? MAZDA WELL I CHANGED THE TRANNY SHIFT INHIBITOR ( SENSOR) AND THAT DID NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AT 2 AM THE OTHER NIGHT AND WAS LUCKY TO MAKE IT BACK TO ATHENS FROM THE COUNTRY SIDE. IT WAS ABOUT 180 MILES AND IN 3RD OR 4TH GEAR. I COULD DRIVE THE CAR NONSTOP ACROSS EUROPE. ITS WHEN I NEED TO CHANGE GEARS OR STOP TO PAY A TOLL THAT TRANNY CLUNKS LIKE CRAZY . IT IS GETTING PROGRESSIVELY WORSE.THE MECHANIC WHO DID THE TRANNY REBUILD 5 YEARS AGO,TAKES THE MONTH OF AUGUST OFF LIKE MOST EVERYONE ELSE HERE IN GREECE. I THINK I WILL BE SCREWED UNTIL HE GETS BACK UNLESS SOME ONE ELSE HAS ANY OTHER IDEAS. I HAVE TO SHIFT INTO LOW OR AT LEAST S TO GET STARTED. DRIVE PRODUCES NOTHING. AFTER GAINING SOME SPEED I CAN SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND IT WILL HOLD OVER 30 MPH OR SO. ANY OTHER THOUGHTS? ONE MAZDA MECANIC SAID IT COULD BE A SIMPLE PROBLEM SENSOR ETC BUT HE WOULD NOT KNOW WHERE TO START LOOKING AT AN AUTOMATIC TRANNY.
THE HOLD LIGHT CAME ON AFTER A FEW BAD SHIFTS AND I AM GETTING NO CODES AFTER CLEARING THAT 133 CODE HERE IN GREECE.
I can't read that when its all caps. hurts my eyes.
anyway, based on your name and title post, I will assume you are driving a 4-cylinder automatic 626. Notorious for having a bad tranny. Get rid of the car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
QBROZEN Sorry for the caps. I know the car is a POS but here in Greece repairs are cheaper and cars maintain their value much, much better. I can prolly get a complete tranny rebuild for less than $1000 and then maybe get $3000-$4000 for the car. Aside for the POS tranny which I rebuilt 5 years ago car runs fine at 59K miles and I would like to release the equity in the car if its running well. Aside from the caps any thoughts about solenoids etc. I can only pull engine codes no tranny codes. There are no (TAT) connectors in the diagnostic control box . I plan on selling car after repairing tranny ! Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thx Peter MAZDA 626 ATX
only 59k miles on a 12-year-old mazda? That's pretty impressive. Its also sad that you'll be going on your 3rd tranny in only 59k miles.
I'm not good at diagnosing trannies, but since you are getting clunking and lack of shifting rather than slipping or no movement at all, it does sound like you might be able to get away with NOT completely rebuilding the unit. With such low miles after all this time, it could very well be a fluid clogging issue. I gotta wonder if a good cleaning might help.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
well, i've not had any time to mess around with the car lately , but i do know that the coolong fan comes on when you start the car, stays on the whole time the car is running , the guy who installed it wired it up that way, would it be possible that the thermastat might have gone bad , or even maybe put in backwards??? i'm not sure... but i will try the fuse relay thingy , i know what your talking about there, i also have a 89' prelude that started overheating last year .. i spliced the wires in it and connected them to a toggle switch, and since then if the temp goes up i just flip a switch and it goes back down, i'm thinking that maybe it has something to do with where the fan is on constantly... i've thought about going back out and wiring it to a toggle switch, to see what happens then. my thought is that it is pulling extra air through constantly then when it slows down the fan should kick on but since the fans have already been on , it is kinda like it is getting used to the air flow , when in reality it should just be kicking on... MAYBE ?? well i'm not sure but i will try any suggestions on the car... like i said before it is my wifes car and she is not driving it ...she's in my prelude.. while i'm stuck in a 1978 lifted ford f-150 that has 35'' tires and a v-8 , not really what i'm used to on gas since it is my four-wheelin truck on the weekends with my buddies, the people at the gas station are getting real used to my face now..lol well any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.. THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.....
Well I just drove the car around the block and now I lost reverse totally. In spite of that it will clunk into gear if I engage the LOW gear on the shift lever. When you clean up what exactly do you recommend.Exactly how do you clean it up. Do you mean draining and replacing filter pan etc or something else that can be done without removing tranny ? I have a funny feeling that it is something that is not catstrophic yet , but will become a disaster if not resolved and if the car is driven any more. I have driven 180 babied miles since it occured but as I said its getting worse. Now the hold light is flashing steadily evenr before I put it in gear. Thx Peter
Hmmm... if you are losing more gears, I'm not sure what is going on. It is starting to sound more like selenoids or electronics of some sort.
A cleaning is typically a flush and fill. I don't even know if that particular vehicle has a tranny pan. Anyway, a flush and fill at a shop only costs $80 here in the states, so it might be worth a shot.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Hi, I have similar problem with my van Quest. We don't usually drive it very often (say once a week). Today, I found one of the rear wheels stuck. Any suggestions? Thanks.
hello i have a 88 chevy celebrity the is something wrong with the motor mounts.... where would they be and how do i fix it.... if ANY ONE COULD HELP IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
I posted this problem to the Saturn S series forum some time ago but have not heard from anyone. First, no check engine lights or trouble codes. I started having problem with the transmission being very very slow to shift to eventually slamming into gear after a delay (including reverse). I have seen this problem on other vehicles where the proper voltage was not being delivered to the tranny so I went straight to the battery posts and thoroughly cleaned them. Problem persisted and repeats because the battery is discharging. Problem goes away when the battery is fully charged. Charged battery and it tested okay at Autozone. Checkers tested the circuit in the car and received "battery not getting charge". Recleaned and inspected battery posts/cables. Discharge continues. Pulled alternator and Autozone and Checkers both tested "pass" all phases multiple times. The serpentine belt and tensioner appear in excellent condition. All connections at battery, starter and alternator appear in good condition. Battery cables appear in good condition. Cleaned and retightened all connections except at the starter. An Autozone tech mentioned that earlier Saturns had a harness problem with the connectors at the alternator but the '99 was not one of them. Of course, discharge accelerates when using the a/c, lights, radio ... I trickle charge every two days and stay symptom free. Has anyone had this problem and found a solution? I will entertain all suggestions at this point! Thanks to all
did you determine if you have a source of constant drain on the battery which is unusually high?
place a Voltmeter across your battery terminals and pull a fuse at a time noting when you get the biggest jump in voltage indicated. replace the fuses after taking the reading.
the one(s) resulting in a good jump are suspicious and should be investigated further.
do you have power windows, seats, seat heaters, a big radio amplifier, etc? i might start with those circuits first.
it's also possible because of mosture or mechanical rubbing, some circuits are being intermittently shorted to ground.
any freys in you wiring harnesses? any buildup of water in proximity to the fuse block(s)?
I have an Express Conversion van that I've had a few episodes of the vehicle not wanting to re-start after having run for a while. The vehicle has about 155,000 miles on it, with the only major repairs being having to have the fuel pump replaced, and the trans repaired/rebuilt.
On four or five occasions, the most recent being last week, I have encountered a problem starting the vehicle after it has been running in hot to very hot weather either after driving a long distance or after driving in slow, congested traffic. After turning off the vehicle for whatever reason (go to a store, stop for gas, etc.), when I try to restart the vehicle, the van turns over and cranks but does not start. While that is attempted, the gas gauge moves from its last point all the way over past the "F" marking ending up at a position that I can describe as "3-O'Clock" if comparing it to a clock. Once the gas gauge needle starts moving past the "F" position, the van will not start.
The van has always re-started after I let it sit and the gas gauge needle returns to its past spot. Most of the time this has taken over an hour.
I'm wondering if anyone out there has experience this scenario and/or can advise me as to what to have checked. Every dealer-service dept. manager seems unsure as to the problem. Some have told me the fuel pump is no good (although I just had it repaired by someone I trust), others have told me that it's an electrical problem, but will not give me a repair price because they claim they don't know how long it will take them to find the problem, but all have seemed clueless as to what the root cause is. I'm awaiting a response from the technical department at G.M.-Detroit and hopefully they will respond because I am now fearful of traveling with this vehicle for fear that I'll get stranded somewhere with my family waiting for a local service person to become educated at my expense.
i just brought home my brand new 2006 legacy gt wagon and there is some kinda greenish/yellowish residue that almost looks like paint or something thats splashed on all the brake calipers, anyone have an idea what that is? the brakes work great so i dont know what it is
The other day my car was driving fine on the expressway. When i got off the expressway my car started shaking and all the gauges started fluctuating. Now it will not start. I have checked the spark which is fine, oil is good, and fuel pressure is good. It will turn over but refuses to start. any suggestions or ideas as to what the problem may be? thank you
Get the whole fuel pump assembly replaced, which includes the guage as well as the pump. Before spending big bucks on that, check for any loose grounds particularly grounds for the fuel pup assembly.
I am trying to diagnose a strange problem with the brakes on my 2001 Ford Windstar. When the pedal is depressed, we hear a sound from under the dash board that kind of sounds like something rubber being twisted or stretched, kind of a loud rubbery sqeaking sound. This isn't the pads or shoes. Definitely inside the car. I have the Ford Extended warranty and the dealer has replaced the brake booster three times so far. However, that hasn't made any difference at all. They tried to tell me that it's normal but it didn't do it when we bought the car and only started in the last 18 months or so.
Supposedly, it's the rubber bellows inside the booster making the noise. But, since we're on our third replacement so far, I'm beginning to wonder. What else could be causing this noise? If it is coming from the booster, is there anything else that could be causing the booster to make that noise?
It's worse when the weather is warm and when the problem really gets bad, the brake pedal gets hard to press, as if there is a lot of resistance.
Hello All, this is my first time on this site, I am really impressed, very nice. I recently failed inspection on my 95 Cadillac Seville, I had a very high NOx reading. Any ideas as to what is causing this. Funds are low and I am hoping that I can take care of this myself, Thanks.
High NOX is a result from excessively high temperaturs in the combustion chambers.I would check the EGR valve,for clogged passages and for a faulty vacuum line to the EGR valve.Maybe all you have to do is remove it and give it a good cleaning with carb cleaner.Make sure the passages at its mounting base are clear also.
Recently my timing belt broke on my ac legend. When I was lookin at the engine I noticed that there is a leak under the engine of what looks like coolant mixed with water. I have read about 150k mile engines gettin problems with the head gaskets but I hope this isnt 1 of those times. Also 1 of my other belts looks like its being eaten away by something thats leaving the belt a white color. Could this be a water pump problem because most of the leak is in the front of the engine?
Also when I do get around to fixing it I wanted to know how hard it would be to fix the timing belt and replace the water pump and other belts. Can I do it myself or let someone else do it?
Thanks for your help everyone - Just gotta luv this site!
Yes, your water pump is causing the probs. Since it is underneath the timing belt cover, it is easy to replace. Put a new timing belt on too. Make sure you buy a repair manual for your car so you do everything right and so you can reset the engine timing.
I replaced the front and rear brake pads and rotors on my 2002 Q45 and when I got finished the ABS, Slip and VDC warning lights were on. I must have accidently turned the toothed wheel rotors and I am seeking some info on how to reset the wheel rotation sensors on the front wheels, possibly if anyone with a service manual would know the position the rotors (Possible location for front wheel lug posts with yellow makings) need to be placed in so the front wheels are in sequence and possibly how to reset the ABS, Slip and VDC lights once the toothed rotors are in place.
I have a 93 Geo Tracker (I just replaced the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, belts, brakes and oil). Anyway, I drove it about 40 miles after these repairs and it had no problems.
I start to drive the car again, go to shift and when I let the clutch pedal go after shifting, the pedal won't come back to the highest resting position. I can move the pedal up and down with my foot freely, it's essentially limp for the first inch or so from its previous highest seating point (which should be just slightly higher than the brake pedal). I can still shift the gears freely (although I did not take it upon myself to go out driving for tons of miles with my clutch pedal like this and really only drove it for about 2 blocks before I was home, but it did shift into first, second, third and reverse just fine).
I have the Chilton manual, which says the clutch pedal height should not change due to wear in the clutch disc. I am hoping that some type of simple adjustment could be made at this point instead of a complete clutch replacement. The entire clutch assembly was replaced at 122k and it now has 152k (so 30k miles on it). It was an OEM clutch and I know the mechanic did a complete job on it (replaced pressure plate, changed the gear oil, blah blah).
I am wondering what could possibly have caused the pedal to go limp like it has, and what possible corrections you could offer (and no, I do not think some Viagra will do the trick;)
The egr valve was not clogged, but I think the diaphram may be bad, if I block the hose fitting on the valve and manually open and close the egr valve, should I be hearing air leaking out?
Thanks for your reply. If I am not mistaken the clutch system in my car is not hydraulic. It seems to have a cable type system that runs from the pedal to some type of adjustment lever. I think then that the lever actuates the clutch. The clutch also seems to have a simple pressure plate and disc type system that is greased. There are some models in the suzuki line that do have the hydraulic clutch but I think mine being a GM badged car doesn't???
I may be off here, but im starting to suspect the cable itself rather than the clutch. If the cable was defective (it has never been replaced and has 152k miles on it) would that present itself in the manner of a limp pedal???
Thanks Penizzle! Here's another 1 for yall. I do have the Chilton manual for all Acuras and it does tell me how to replace the belts and the water pump. The problem is they tell you do not move the camshaft/crankshaft with the belt removed. Like I said before my timing belt popped and it doesn't say how to turn the camshaft if the belt is already removed. This is my dilemma because if I can find out how to move the camshaft to the TDC I'll do the work myself.
oh really? That's interesting. One rarely sees non-hydraulic clutches anymore.
Anyway, if you have a cable system with adjuster, by all means get the proper adjustment on the clutch and see how it feels. You could have too much slack in the cable.
Just about one month ago, I drove into my Goodyear shop for new tires...the OEM tires were Goodyear Eagle LS and lasted 47K miles...rode well and smooth as glass when they were balanced...
When I drove away from Goodyear an hour later, with 4 new Comfort-Tred carbon/kevlar 80K tires, as soon as I drove onto the interstate and hit 45 mph, my seat started shaking, implying rear wheels out of balance...when I reached 55 mph, the steering wheel started to pulsate like the fronts were out of balance...
Stupid me, rather than drive back immediately, I figured maybe the new tires needed some "breaking in" time, so I drove it like that for one week...needless to say, breaking them in did not do anything...
The following week I returned and they re-balanced the tires...while I do not know if they were out of balance when they were spun on the Hunter balance, they were "balanced" on the car when I drove away...the manager at the time mentioned that if they did not perform well, there would be an "adjustment"
The rebalance did not change anything, still rode poorly...I returned the following Saturday, last Saturday, and they exchanged them for 4 new Regatta tires...
As I drove away and entered the interstate, the SAME thing showed up...around 45 mph, the seat shakes like the rears are bad, and about 60 the steering wheel vibrates...the car is in proper alignment...however, it starts to ride quite smoothly at 85 mph, but since I rarely reach that speed, that does me no good...90% of my commuting time is spent in the 45-70 mph range, right where all the problems show up...
I went to another tire dealer Tuesday, thinking maybe Goodyear's Hunter balance was improperly calibrated...the other guys used a just-calibrated Coats Laser balance machine, and I saw all 4 tires balance inboard and outboard to 0.00, perfectly balanced...
Drove away, same exact problem, same speeds...
I realize that there COULD be 2 sets of defective tires, if Good year is having a run that they have not discovered yet (like an auto maker that has not dicovered the defective parts that will cause a recall in the future), but I would think it is unlikely...
The problem was NOT there when I drove in with my old tires, and appeared immediately when I drove out and reached high-speed...naturally, the first thing you assume is out of balance or a bad tire...
BUT WAIT!!!...can anybody think of anything that Goodyear might have done accidentally when they pulled each wheel???...could the lift have struck the driveshaft and dislodged a balancing weight???...could something become loosened like a shock absorber mount (I have rear air suspension)???
Assuming that I don't have the one-in-a-million chance of 2 sets of defective tires, can anyone think of anything else to check???...this is driving me insane...is it possible that only Eagle LS tires will work on this car???...highly unlikely, since this car ahs been around, almost unchanged, for 20-plus years???
Any thoughts, including the ridiculous and the impossible???
That would usually only shake when you brake though. My bet is that they're still out of balance. I've never gotten a good balance from anywhere I've take my vehicle except one place that specializes in wheel & alignment & balance the tires on the vehicle.
i hear what you are saying but, how then would the rotor deflect upon overtorquing but not the hub or whatever the wheel makes contact with.
i mean a rotor getting warped doesn't happen because the outer part of the radius is deformed directly but indirectly... i'm thinking it follows the deflection of the inner radius closer to the lugnuts, and if that were distorted the wheels wouldn't be in a consistent plane perpendicular to the road surface.
In 2000 we bought a tdi new beetle with a 5 speed. It now had 80k and we now have a problem with 4 wheel brake pressure building with a stone hard brake pedal. No problem when the system is cool. After driving about 30 to 45 min. the pressure begins to build with all 4 wheel cyl. applying. At this point the pedal is hard - no play at all. If I continue it will heat up and smoke the pads. I must pull over and let the system cool down(15 to 20 min) This acts as some type of re-set. I can then continue for another 30+ or - minutes. I pulled one of the abs sensors from the right rear wheel thinking it would disengage the abs system. I did not! I called the dealer and was told that they would do a diagnostic on the car for $100.00 but the cost of replacing the abs would run about $2500.00 to $3000.00. I don't think they would tell me about any recalls or extended warranty on the abs. Can anyone shed any light on this problem. I had planed to keep this car as long as possible thinking it would last 300 or 400k I now doubt it. I think all the electronic garbage will keep this from ever happening. This is my first post and I would be grateful for any help on this problem. Thank you. Have Fun, buckshot
I just joined this forum because I know someone here can help with a disaster I made. I am going on a trip tomorrow and thought I would add some gas treatment but instead I added oil treatment. Can anyone think of something I can do to fix this? Do I need to drain the tank? Can I add something else? Help please....
Comments
There is a process to override the solnoid that locks the shifter - to usually be used when the solnoid fails. But, if the solnoid is on the same circuit as the brakes, the fuse blowing would also shut down the solnoid.
Basically, for column shifts there is a small cover on the top of the 'housing' and for console shifts there is a small cover on the console. A small screwdriver can be used to remove this cover. Then, a spare key can be used to push into the hole under the cover, which will unlock the shift interlock. The shift can then be moved out of park.
This is covered in your manual.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Im wondering if it is something I can do. I have NEVER worked on my car before myself, I typically take it into the shop. The problem is at this point I can't afford to take it to the shop.
I have the Chilton book on the car, have the tools, and the parts. It is a 93 Geo Tracker and it does not have an interference engine.
Thoughts? Tips?
My advice? Read the instructions 3 times, take your time and go slow, take pictures (digital) at every step, so when yo have a part that you don't know where it goes, you might find out!
ALways use new gaskets, and change the water pump at the same time. Get bags and a marker, and bag and label all the little parts (nuts/bults, etc.) as they come off.
Most importantly, have lots of beer in a cooler. Trust me on this one.
And finally, if you have a car nut friend, mention the beer and the tools and they should be right over to help!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Some recent history: the last few weeks in GA have been in the low 90s to high 90s, yet my A/C would cool down the car within 5 minutes or so...I ALWAYS have an A/C thermometer stuck in my vent, and it only takes about 2-3 minutes before the air in the duct is blowing at the proper 40 degrees F...
Until today...temp in the 92-95 range, nothing unusual, yet the A/C came on, always set at 70 degrees, and the air after 15 minutes is bouncing between 50-60 degrees, kinda spending more time around 60...
On my drive home, after being on the interstate for 35 minutes, the temp started to drop to 45, and then move up to 50 all within 15 seconds (by glancing over, you can virtually watch the needle move slowly within seconds as the temp changes)...in the past it would just hang at 40 degrees and blow cold air...
At first I suspected a freon R134 leak, but when the temp goes up and down, and does drop to 45 after 35 minutes, could there be something else malfunctioning???
Thanks.
Bob
so my thinking is: if that ain't happening, i could see temp rising everytime you slow down.
i had a '94 accord that started to elevate temp, then when i shut it off, would run the fans continuously. so i figured flakey fan relay. i opened the fuse/relay compartment, found another relay to swap to do a test (in my car, the power window relays happened to be identical to the fan relay so i didn't have to buy anything to do a test), popped it in and voila, problem solved.
i then went to autozone and picked up a relay to replace the power window relay being used now in the fan control circuit.
i don't know if you have the same issue, but - it's possible and worth investigating.
good luck.
let me go out on a limb here ('cause i don't know but you might call an independant or speak with a dealer tech and ask)... i'm thinking the car has a mechanical thermostat for opening and porting the coolant where it needs to flow.
i'm thinking there is a temp measuring unit (engine coolant temperature sensor) which changes electrical characteristics with temperature and feeds the engine/transmission control unit and the meter on the dash.
so one mechanical and one electrical, but don't quote me.
which one did you get replaced?
I really appriecite you helping us , BTW. Your the only person thats even trying and we've posted on several forums. We're trying everything you suggest, so thanks so much.
~ The Kestner Family.
if the vehicle didn't need two fans, it wouldn't have 2 fans. the manufacturer knows best.
i forgot where we are in the diagnosis process. open your fuse/relay center and remove / re-install the fuse relay(s). if there are two, and if they are the same size / number as the power window relays, swap them. swap both of them.
look for any fuses for the fans. a system may have fan relays and fuses to protect the circuit. firmly reseat the fuses, or because they are so cheap, buy what is needed at the automotive parts store and replace.
temp sending unit on the radiator? reseat the wiring to it if it looks like it's wiring connector(s) aren't firmly connected to the sensor.
maybe that sensor has a problem, but my thinking is fan relay or fuse related still.
sorry no one else is helping. me? i'm just a driver like you and your wife. not an expert - but willing to try some stuff. that is all i'm suggesting.
good luck. your next step might be a dealer or another independant mechanic.
Is the radiator original? The coolant is going somewhere. If it's not leaking into the engine or out on the ground then it's boiling over and being released as steam.
Maybe you can help with this ?
MAZDA WELL I CHANGED THE TRANNY SHIFT INHIBITOR ( SENSOR) AND THAT DID NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM. I DROVE THE CAR HOME AT 2 AM THE OTHER NIGHT AND WAS LUCKY TO MAKE IT BACK TO ATHENS FROM THE COUNTRY SIDE. IT WAS ABOUT 180 MILES AND IN 3RD OR 4TH GEAR. I COULD DRIVE THE CAR NONSTOP ACROSS EUROPE. ITS WHEN I NEED TO CHANGE GEARS OR STOP TO PAY A TOLL THAT TRANNY CLUNKS LIKE CRAZY . IT IS GETTING PROGRESSIVELY WORSE.THE MECHANIC WHO DID THE TRANNY REBUILD 5 YEARS AGO,TAKES THE MONTH OF AUGUST OFF LIKE MOST EVERYONE ELSE HERE IN GREECE.
I THINK I WILL BE SCREWED UNTIL HE GETS BACK UNLESS SOME ONE ELSE HAS ANY OTHER IDEAS. I HAVE TO SHIFT INTO LOW OR AT LEAST S TO GET STARTED. DRIVE PRODUCES NOTHING. AFTER GAINING SOME SPEED I CAN SHIFT INTO DRIVE AND IT WILL HOLD OVER 30 MPH OR SO. ANY OTHER THOUGHTS? ONE MAZDA MECANIC SAID IT COULD BE A SIMPLE PROBLEM SENSOR ETC BUT HE WOULD NOT KNOW WHERE TO START LOOKING AT AN AUTOMATIC TRANNY.
THE HOLD LIGHT CAME ON AFTER A FEW BAD SHIFTS AND I AM GETTING NO CODES AFTER CLEARING THAT 133 CODE HERE IN GREECE.
thx
anyway, based on your name and title post, I will assume you are driving a 4-cylinder automatic 626. Notorious for having a bad tranny. Get rid of the car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sorry for the caps. I know the car is a POS but here in Greece repairs are cheaper and cars maintain their value much, much better. I can prolly get a complete tranny rebuild for less than $1000 and then maybe get $3000-$4000 for the car. Aside for the POS tranny which I rebuilt 5 years ago car runs fine at 59K miles and I would like to release the equity in the car if its running well.
Aside from the caps any thoughts about solenoids etc. I can only pull engine codes no tranny codes. There are no (TAT) connectors in the diagnostic control box .
I plan on selling car after repairing tranny !
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thx Peter MAZDA 626 ATX
I'm not good at diagnosing trannies, but since you are getting clunking and lack of shifting rather than slipping or no movement at all, it does sound like you might be able to get away with NOT completely rebuilding the unit. With such low miles after all this time, it could very well be a fluid clogging issue. I gotta wonder if a good cleaning might help.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
When you clean up what exactly do you recommend.Exactly how do you clean it up. Do you mean draining and replacing filter pan etc or something else that can be done without removing tranny ? I have a funny feeling that it is something that is not catstrophic yet , but will become a disaster if not resolved and if the car is driven any more. I have driven 180 babied miles since it occured but as I said its getting worse. Now the hold light is flashing steadily evenr before I put it in gear.
Thx
Peter
A cleaning is typically a flush and fill. I don't even know if that particular vehicle has a tranny pan. Anyway, a flush and fill at a shop only costs $80 here in the states, so it might be worth a shot.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
the is something wrong with the motor mounts....
where would they be and how do i fix it....
if ANY ONE COULD HELP IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
place a Voltmeter across your battery terminals and pull a fuse at a time noting when you get the biggest jump in voltage indicated. replace the fuses after taking the reading.
the one(s) resulting in a good jump are suspicious and should be investigated further.
do you have power windows, seats, seat heaters, a big radio amplifier, etc? i might start with those circuits first.
it's also possible because of mosture or mechanical rubbing, some circuits are being intermittently shorted to ground.
any freys in you wiring harnesses? any buildup of water in proximity to the fuse block(s)?
just a thought.
I have an Express Conversion van that I've had a few episodes of the vehicle not wanting to re-start after having run for a while. The vehicle has about 155,000 miles on it, with the only major repairs being having to have the fuel pump replaced, and the trans repaired/rebuilt.
On four or five occasions, the most recent being last week, I have encountered a problem starting the vehicle after it has been running in hot to very hot weather either after driving a long distance or after driving in slow, congested traffic. After turning off the vehicle for whatever reason (go to a store, stop for gas, etc.), when I try to restart the vehicle, the van turns over and cranks but does not start. While that is attempted, the gas gauge moves from its last point all the way over past the "F" marking ending up at a position that I can describe as "3-O'Clock" if comparing it to a clock. Once the gas gauge needle starts moving past the "F" position, the van will not start.
The van has always re-started after I let it sit and the gas gauge needle returns to its past spot. Most of the time this has taken over an hour.
I'm wondering if anyone out there has experience this scenario and/or can advise me as to what to have checked. Every dealer-service dept. manager seems unsure as to the problem. Some have told me the fuel pump is no good (although I just had it repaired by someone I trust), others have told me that it's an electrical problem, but will not give me a repair price because they claim they don't know how long it will take them to find the problem, but all have seemed clueless as to what the root cause is. I'm awaiting a response from the technical department at G.M.-Detroit and hopefully they will respond because I am now fearful of traveling with this vehicle for fear that I'll get stranded somewhere with my family waiting for a local service person to become educated at my expense.
Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
815-467-1347
Supposedly, it's the rubber bellows inside the booster making the noise. But, since we're on our third replacement so far, I'm beginning to wonder. What else could be causing this noise? If it is coming from the booster, is there anything else that could be causing the booster to make that noise?
It's worse when the weather is warm and when the problem really gets bad, the brake pedal gets hard to press, as if there is a lot of resistance.
Thanks.
Also when I do get around to fixing it I wanted to know how hard it would be to fix the timing belt and replace the water pump and other belts. Can I do it myself or let someone else do it?
Thanks for your help everyone - Just gotta luv this site!
I start to drive the car again, go to shift and when I let the clutch pedal go after shifting, the pedal won't come back to the highest resting position. I can move the pedal up and down with my foot freely, it's essentially limp for the first inch or so from its previous highest seating point (which should be just slightly higher than the brake pedal). I can still shift the gears freely (although I did not take it upon myself to go out driving for tons of miles with my clutch pedal like this and really only drove it for about 2 blocks before I was home, but it did shift into first, second, third and reverse just fine).
I have the Chilton manual, which says the clutch pedal height should not change due to wear in the clutch disc. I am hoping that some type of simple adjustment could be made at this point instead of a complete clutch replacement. The entire clutch assembly was replaced at 122k and it now has 152k (so 30k miles on it). It was an OEM clutch and I know the mechanic did a complete job on it (replaced pressure plate, changed the gear oil, blah blah).
I am wondering what could possibly have caused the pedal to go limp like it has, and what possible corrections you could offer (and no, I do not think some Viagra will do the trick;)
Thanks much.
Thanks for your reply. If I am not mistaken the clutch system in my car is not hydraulic. It seems to have a cable type system that runs from the pedal to some type of adjustment lever. I think then that the lever actuates the clutch. The clutch also seems to have a simple pressure plate and disc type system that is greased. There are some models in the suzuki line that do have the hydraulic clutch but I think mine being a GM badged car doesn't???
I may be off here, but im starting to suspect the cable itself rather than the clutch. If the cable was defective (it has never been replaced and has 152k miles on it) would that present itself in the manner of a limp pedal???
What do you think?
Anyway, if you have a cable system with adjuster, by all means get the proper adjustment on the clutch and see how it feels. You could have too much slack in the cable.
Just about one month ago, I drove into my Goodyear shop for new tires...the OEM tires were Goodyear Eagle LS and lasted 47K miles...rode well and smooth as glass when they were balanced...
When I drove away from Goodyear an hour later, with 4 new Comfort-Tred carbon/kevlar 80K tires, as soon as I drove onto the interstate and hit 45 mph, my seat started shaking, implying rear wheels out of balance...when I reached 55 mph, the steering wheel started to pulsate like the fronts were out of balance...
Stupid me, rather than drive back immediately, I figured maybe the new tires needed some "breaking in" time, so I drove it like that for one week...needless to say, breaking them in did not do anything...
The following week I returned and they re-balanced the tires...while I do not know if they were out of balance when they were spun on the Hunter balance, they were "balanced" on the car when I drove away...the manager at the time mentioned that if they did not perform well, there would be an "adjustment"
The rebalance did not change anything, still rode poorly...I returned the following Saturday, last Saturday, and they exchanged them for 4 new Regatta tires...
As I drove away and entered the interstate, the SAME thing showed up...around 45 mph, the seat shakes like the rears are bad, and about 60 the steering wheel vibrates...the car is in proper alignment...however, it starts to ride quite smoothly at 85 mph, but since I rarely reach that speed, that does me no good...90% of my commuting time is spent in the 45-70 mph range, right where all the problems show up...
I went to another tire dealer Tuesday, thinking maybe Goodyear's Hunter balance was improperly calibrated...the other guys used a just-calibrated Coats Laser balance machine, and I saw all 4 tires balance inboard and outboard to 0.00, perfectly balanced...
Drove away, same exact problem, same speeds...
I realize that there COULD be 2 sets of defective tires, if Good year is having a run that they have not discovered yet (like an auto maker that has not dicovered the defective parts that will cause a recall in the future), but I would think it is unlikely...
The problem was NOT there when I drove in with my old tires, and appeared immediately when I drove out and reached high-speed...naturally, the first thing you assume is out of balance or a bad tire...
BUT WAIT!!!...can anybody think of anything that Goodyear might have done accidentally when they pulled each wheel???...could the lift have struck the driveshaft and dislodged a balancing weight???...could something become loosened like a shock absorber mount (I have rear air suspension)???
Assuming that I don't have the one-in-a-million chance of 2 sets of defective tires, can anyone think of anything else to check???...this is driving me insane...is it possible that only Eagle LS tires will work on this car???...highly unlikely, since this car ahs been around, almost unchanged, for 20-plus years???
Any thoughts, including the ridiculous and the impossible???
Thanks...
i mean a rotor getting warped doesn't happen because the outer part of the radius is deformed directly but indirectly... i'm thinking it follows the deflection of the inner radius closer to the lugnuts, and if that were distorted the wheels wouldn't be in a consistent plane perpendicular to the road surface.
i probably just don't understand it well. sorry.
Have Fun,
buckshot