Got a Quick, Technical Question?

smooviesmoove

My Tercel has had issues starting for quite some time. What usually happens is that randomly, the engine will crank but not turn over. Once I push started the car, other times, I have gone back to start it, and suddenly it starts again. I currently have the same problem, only this time it has not started on several occasions. I have not attempted to push start it yet. One time I had it towed to a shop only to find that it started fine once I got there, and therefore there was nothing for them to troubleshoot.

Current shop says that there are three things wrong: the battery, the distributor, and the coil. Is this possible considering that the car has managed to start after not starting in the past?

Any advice or thoughts? Thank you.

Mr_Shiftright

No don't waste your money at this low mileage.

Mr_Shiftright

You don't say how old this car is or the miles, and that might change my answer somewhat, but in general if a car will not start BUT will PUSH START that is usually an ignition/battery issue.

If the miles are very high, it could also be a low compression issue.

smooviesmoove

Thanks for the reply. It is a 93 and the mileage is on the low to mid 90s. Haven't tried to push start it yet this time, as I mentioned. I was told when this latest problem first happened that the battery was fine, although I when I tried to start it repeatedly, the cranking did get weaker. If it was the ignition, would the car even crank?

Still, from my highly limited understanding, I am not seeing how the distributor and/or coil can factor into this. Is that correct?

Mr_Shiftright

Well when you push start you get engine revolutions faster than a starter would usually be able to spin the engine....so you must presume that the push starting is compensating for a weakness in either the battery, the starter or perhaps the ignition "system", which could include things like the spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, etc.

You can have a battery "load-tested" to see how well it recovers from stress.

crash29

Hi, I recently bought a sunfire with a 2.2 engine, 32,000km, 5 speed and when I stall it by letting the clutch out to fast, it's hard to start. It's like it's getting to much fuel. It only happens when i stall it. Is this normal?

Thank you

loams2

My 2000 Sunfire has been making for some time a "clanging" noise apparently coming from the area of the A/C condenser surpentine belt pulley. The noise does not happen all the time but most of the time. However, when I turn on the A/C the noise stops. Does anyone know what this could be?

r_patange

Hello,

I need your help with something I experienced. My car battery died and I called in a technician to jumpstart it. He tried to connect the incorrect polarity (reverse jumpstart) but then corrected it. This blew off the max fuse which I replaced but now the CD\MP3 player is no longer working. Isn't the max fuse supposed to protect everything?

Is it also true that I should expect more electrical problems in the future?

Thanks Rahul

CAR DETAILS

Year/Make/Model: 2000 TOYOTA CAMRY CE

burdawg

Did you check to see if the fuse that provides power to the CD/MP3 player is also blown?

geneticmishap

I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra and I am trying to power a small fan in the car when the car is turned off. I bought an inverter and that only works when the car is running. I then tried buying a fan with a 12v plug and that too only works when the car is running. The car has no problems and the battery is fairly new. Should I just give up on using the 12v socket when the car is off or is there something I can do to make it work?

Thanks

retiredcop

Grrrrrrrrr!! Just got my new Escape 2005 XLT and now the right front headlight has condensation inside the lense , one person told me there is a vent hole somewhere but didn't know where and that it is probley clogged ... ??? Does anyone have the same problem ?? is there a repair or resolution in site ...
PLEASE clear my lense on this ...
Thanks
Eggie

alcan

Have the crankshaft harmonic balancer checked for deterioration. The 2.3L and 2.4L engines have had a problem with the rubber element between the hub and outer ring separating.

alcan

What did your selling dealer say when you took it back for a warranty repair?

burdawg

You will need to splice into a 12V source that is always live, such as the courtesy light circuit, ignition, etc. If it was me I would probably just run a line from the battery or a live terminal on the fusebox. Use an inline fuse. The question is though why would you want to run a fan inside the car when your not there? Don't you think it's just going to move the hot air around? I'm assuming that your goal is to try to keep it cooler when parked in the sun.

loams2

Thanks. Is the rubber element to the crankshaft harmonic balancer an "annoyance" or something that can be a major problem?

alcan

If the outer ring completely separates from the hub it'll wipe out anything in it's path, so yes it could be a major problem.

rhicon

I have a problem with my brakes. I think it could possibly be my ABS. but i dont know. My problem is when i start to brake, when my speed hits 15 or below my brake pedal starts to shake back and forth and i hear a grinding in the engine. Does anyone know or have had anything like this happen? :mad:

[Deleted User]

I'm following the manufacturer's workshop manual in trying to troubleshoot an infrequent stalling problem. The manual lists a half-dozen possible causes. One suggestion is to disconnect the oxygen sensor, drive the car, and see whether the problem goes away. If it does, then the oxygen sensor should be replaced. My question: Will test-driving the car with the oxygen sensor disconnected foul the catalytic converter? My highly experienced mechanic advises not driving the car unless the sensor is hooked up. I'd be grateful for an expert opinion.

rlenz2711

I have a 92 chevy 350 tbi.
there is a loud knocking noise coming from the throttle body until the engine warms up. It quiets down after about 10 minutes.
Could this be the injectors or the pressure regulator.
using a stethoscope the noise is all over the top of the throttle body.
Thanks

dsutherland

My headlights are set too high, need to adjust them down but cannot figure out how? 2005 Tacoma 4X2.

seitz_82

i have an '89 olds cutlass ciera i just started it up after three months it ran for an hour now it wont start. what it will do is start then stall out like it wants to run. i think it may be the air charge sensor. To find out what the code is i know you can use a paper clip but i dont remember which posts it touch toe paper clip to or may be an easier way to fix it or find out.

thanks

alcan

A & B:

http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/

mdwalton1

While starting my car today, the dash blinked "dISC" (looked just like that) where the time and temperature is normally read. Did it twice, then stopped. As the dealer is closed today, I'm trying to find out from others what this means (and if I can take it 15 miles away to my indy mechanic or if it'll shut down on me on the highway).

qbrozen

this is VERY common (i'm really surprised this is the first time you are seeing it). The connectors on the switch get dirty and lose contact. MOst times, the quick and easy fix is the quickly rotate the switch all the way left and right several times. This will usually clean the connectors. In more extreme cases, you can remove it, disassemble it, and clean it. Or, of course, you could always replace it.

mdwalton1

If I read this correctly, I think you mean the knob that tells me the temp. and miles is dirty and that's why the word "dISC" is flashing. If so, I'll try to flip it a few times and see if it stops doing that. Thanks for your help!!

bman541

I have a 5 speed and want to check the trans oil level. I assume there is a check plug but I haven't found it. Can anyone guide me in the right direction?

rangerguy

I have a 98 pontiac trans am ws6 with 96000 km
i was driving down the road one day and my ac stop working and so did my heat i took it to a local shop witch had it apart and they could not find out what it was but some how it started working again but a little down the road it stop working and hasnt work since any body have any idea's

thanks

ghostrider84

My 2000 GMC Savana with a 7.4L motor has delayed starting that is intermitting. It happens sometimes at first starting or after its warm it is verry inconsistant. It also starts at the first turn over. It has 145000 miles, I have just tuned it up including a new ign coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, Is there something that will delay the starting if there is low oil pressure or what. It has great oil pressure. I have replaced the fuel pump, filter and just about anything that I can. Can you help.

crankshaft

i would bet you have a blend door problem in the dash.

aliplah

i have a honda civic 93. done about 230,000 km. i know its a lot. just lately, i tipped in too much engine oil into the engine. started blowing white smoke. drained it, tipped new engine oil (right amount this time), no more smoke. then, it worked for one day. the next day it wouldnt start, so i decided to change the spark plugs. it worked again. didnt touch it, then wanted to drive it. then it starts {it started, however, the car sorta died, very very unstable sort of start. engine sounds like almost dying, but not actually dead} am i making sense??? is it the spark plugs?? please help me. i really will appreciate it.

rangerguy

The Ac compressor will not turn on but is not seize the control blows out luke warm air and i think it might be the control unit

Mr_Shiftright

You might have sent your tired old catalytic converter over the edge with that big doge of oil smoke.

ghostrider84

My 2000 GMC Savana with a 7.4L motor has delayed starting that is intermitting. It happens sometimes at first starting or after its warm it is verry inconsistant. It also starts at the first turn over. It has 145000 miles, I have just tuned it up including a new ign coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, Is there something that will delay the starting if there is low oil pressure or what. It has great oil pressure. I have replaced the fuel pump, filter and just about anything that I can. Can you help.

nshaw

Okay, our 2001BMW car has a "motor oil, Castrol recommended" cap and another cap that says ATF Oil Only. What is that? We think it's the power steering, but do you use automatic transmission fluid in the power steering? Is it possible it's an incorrect cap? It's in front of the engine and is a small cylinder about 4 inches across.
Also, whatever that fill thing is, what level should it be up to? Nothing in our owners manual about this fill cap.

tearex

1999 Dodge Caravan High beams don't work.
-High Beam fuses both good (Visibly good and checked with multimeter.)
-Relay good in fuse block (constant power to proper terminal. Also swapped with
known good relay of same type.)
-Both bulbs good (Visibly good and checked with multimeter. Also replaced with
known good bulbs)
-Multiswitch on steering column good (Checked with multimeter - power to
Orange/White wire when switched to brights. Also replaced with known good
switch.)
-High Beam light in light cluster doesn't come on and brights don't work.
I am at a loss for what to check next. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

tearex

The cap you're looking at is indeed the power steering fluid reservoir and, oddly enough, the cap is correct. It calls for "DEXRON III or equivilent ATF fluid". My 2002 530i Sport (same 3.0L engine) has the same thing right next to the oil filter housing. The stem under the cap has a lower ring (the MIN. level) and an upper ring (the MAX. level). No drain in the system, so it shouldn't need any additional fluid unless your system has a leak. Great car though, huh?

sel

I am the owner of a 1999 chyrsler 300m purchased new in dec of 99. I have 112000mi on it. When you start the car there is a lot of clatering noise it quiets down a little after a few seconds but is still noisey. I metioned this to the dealer when the car was still in warranty. They said this was normal for this engine. Having owned many cars over the years and never having this problem I thought it was odd. But i never owned a Chyrsler product before so i thought maybe so. I don't know that much about cars but to me I thought that when first started not enough oil was getting up to the top of the engine liffters? I have the oil changed every 3000mi. The chyrsler dealer has done all service work. The noise has gotten louder so when I went in for my last oil change I ask them to look at it. They tell me its the Rocker arms and it will cost $1150 to fix.I am disapointed. The car is in very good condition and I had hoped to get another 5 years out of it. My last car a Mazda 626 I drove 226000mi. Could this really be Rocker arms and if I have them fixed could there be a good chance of other serious engine problems to follow soon? Sorry for the long post but I really Love this car and want to keep driving it. Thanks SEL

Mr_Shiftright

Well that's a lot of miles and engines do wear out, but it would be good to know if the rockers arm bushing failed from their own natural wear (cheap materials maybe or not a great design or not frequent enough maintenance?) or if they failed from some type of oil starvation. I suppose the best you could do is repair the damage but not until you assess how good the oil pressure is for the engine in general. It is possible that the rockers failed due to you not being on a severe maintenance schedule, or maybe the engine is full of sludge, and these things have affected oil pressure.

It's all hard to say why these things happen, but by all means have the engine's oil pressure checked with a numerical read-out before you repair anything and also have the engine carefully examined for sludge.

My point is you don't want to end up just repairing the symptoms and not the disease.

sel

Thanks Mr shiftright. I will ask the dealer to check the oil presure. The oil presure gauge still reads the same as it always has. As for as oil changes the car is driven mostly highway miles 70miles to and from work 6 days a week. I have had the oil changed every 3000mi and few times less than 3000. My chrysler dealer has done every oil change and all maintinence. It has been a good car other than this. Thanks again for you help.

Mr_Shiftright

Well sounds like you did all the right things. It's too bad the dealer deflected the original complaint, You were probably right that something was wrong. Next time trust your intuition more and maybe get second opinions. You might even get a second opinion on this problem and the cost of repairs. You could also have a couple of bad valve lifters. Rocker arm failure is a bit odd.

rembrandtstl

Having a no start problem. Replaced fuel pump & its wire harness, relay
injectors & their wire harness.
Engine cranks. But No power detected coming from OBD to injectors.
Dealer suggested it was the power control module instead of the OBD and
gave us a drawing showing the PCM on the pass. side of the engine inside
the van. The Haynes book is of no help either.
BUT, we can't identify it! Any help?
:confuse: Or other suggestions as to problem.

2001astrolt

Did you ever get a disgnosis of this problem?

I may have the same thing in my Astro.... feels like going over rumble strips almost.

:confuse:

2me

it's a 95 neon 5 speed. A week ago it ran great. it will start and idle perfectly but as soon as you press the gas it "blub, blub, blubs" like a motorcycle with the choke left on. If you let off the gas it goes back to idle. I replaced the fuel pump and it was no better. If you pump the peddle quickly you can achieve the higher RPM's. There is no smoke coming out and the oil is clear and clean. There is the oft mentioned oil in the spark plug tube in one of the cylinders but it looks like it has been there for a while. The head was redone a year ago.

qbrozen

you replaced the pump? What about the fuel filter?

2me

Sorry, I replaced the filter not the pump.

qbrozen

well, i'm sure someone else will have better info, but i think it could be any numbers of things. bad or clogged injectors or any one of many sensors has failed are just 2 thoughts.

2me

will any or all of these things show up scanning the cars computer? The check engine light is on but I will have to rent a scanner to check it sense it does not run well enough to drive.

qbrozen

a bad sensor will usually trip the check engine light.

2me

one person at autozone suggested that I disconnect the fuel filter and have someone turn the ignition key on and see if there is a steady constant small stream of fuel coming out or is it sputtering or intermittent. He said this will diagnose the fuel pump itself. what do you think?

qbrozen

well, sure, but if its idling fine, then you'll obviously see gas coming out.