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  • guayaguaya Member Posts: 1
    fuel injection plug diconect.Doyou know the place to conect.
  • bhoskinsbhoskins Member Posts: 9
    On a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan
    1. How do I disable the daytime running lights?
    2. On the top row of buttons on the overhead console the left one is an "ON/OFF" switch. What does it do? Nothing in the handbook.
  • eyeflyrceyeflyrc Member Posts: 1
    1987 Acura Legend Coupe, automatic, 90K original miles. Intermittently, car will not crank to start shortly after being parked. When problem appears, if car is left parked for about an hour, it will crank and start normally. Battery is fully charged, connections good, headlights can be turned on and are bright. Dash idiot lights go on when ignition switch is turned to start but starter will not crank. It acts the same as if the transmission shift lever were left in drive. No clicking sound at all, only sound of fuel pump powering up. Jiggling ignition key and switch and transmission lever between Park and Neutral and Drive has no affect. In about an hour or so, car will crank and start in Park or Neutral instantly. Could the problem be in the neutral start switch? Can it be disabled or must it be replaced? What else could cause the problem? Seems to be related to car being at operating temperature. When it cools down, problem disappears. I never know if it will start again after a short trip without waiting. Help?
  • luvmygtluvmygt Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1991 ford escort GT, Mazda Protege engine, 1.8 DOHC, 5 spd. OK, here's the problem....the car bucks and hesitates, and sometimes stalls then I am trying to accelerate. As soon as I let off the clutch and hit the gas, it does it. I've replaced the 02 sensor and the throttle position sensor, which was causing the check engine light to come on.....I've also put in new spark plugs, and replaced a bad wire. We also tested the car's fuel system and found that the fuel pump and the fuel injector is fine, and also the fuel regulator came out OK. NOW WHAT? LOL. I even put that fuel injector cleaner in it and the car is acting better, but still does it, just not as bad. We've run out of ideas and I don't have a CLUE what it could be besides the obvious things I've either replaced or tested....Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated!! Oh, and when this problem started..about a month or so ago, it backfired a few times....I don't know what that means...but it may help figure out the prob. Thanks!

    -luvmyGT
  • littlebitmishlittlebitmish Member Posts: 4
    Im having some problems with my LTC--bought it about 8 weeks ago thought it was mint went for a manifold old one was PLASTIC had a big crack (could have been made by Fisher Price) BIG BUCKS no warning about this anybody else experience this with their LTC if so what and is it a FORD problem that i might be reimbursed for this also i have to get center links and bushings-- all body bushings--more BIG BUCKS parts time labor i still cant believe this car needs these things the car is MINT garaged kept by one owner any body experience this with their 97 LTC :D
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It's a 9 year old car. What were you expecting?
  • candiecandie Member Posts: 28
    Mr. Shiftright:

    Back to the tensioners if you don't mind. I was going through paper work from the purcahse of the Cavalier, and interestingly I now find out that just before I purchased the car, it had a new tensioner put in. Now I am TOTALLY baffled. This means that in the course of a year, 5 tensioners have been put in...4 by one mechanic and one by another and its in need of another now. I'm wondering now if I should call GM as apparently theres something VERY wrong....I am sure 2 mechanics couldn't of fouled up this many times. Any ideas? Any suggestions? As you stated, it is a cast part, but one that keeps going kaput...I'm a woman, have NO idea what's under that hood, but I do know this isn't normal at all....at this rate I could be replacing tensioners at the rate of once a month. Please respond, I'm at my wits end. (Other post now the door locks are broken too....talk about Fed up)....thanks...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Has a GM dealership ever put one of those tensioners in? Forgive me if I asked you this already...

    I'm thinking, if not, have them do it with a written warranty on parts and labor.
  • hbaradhbarad Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Recently the heater - A/C fan (or blower) quit working. Occasionally, it will kick on for 4-5 minutes, the quit again. The jeep has the automatic dual zone Heat / A/C, and the fan doesn't work in any mode. (Auto, A/C on Manual, Heater on Manual, Fan only). The fuse looked good, but I replaced it anyway.. I'll probably end up taking it to the dealer, but since I don't have a clue, I'd like some hints as to possible causes. I read in another post that the blower motor resistor (whatever that is) is know to fail on another, older, Jeep model. Anyone know if that problem continues in the JGC?
    Thanks
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    a lot of ford products with the 4.6 v-8 had those plastic intack manifolds which cracked,spewed coolant everywhere and overheated the engine.it cracked always in the same place.the part was junk from the begining and ford never really took responsibility for the inferior part.the new part is much improved.usually they fail much sooner than yours.the big fords also had front end parts which fail before their time.reason,poor quality and no grease fittings.i would say since your car was well kept is the reason your parts lasted so long.i have been the victim of fords head gaskets blowing,intakes cracking and ball joints going bad in less than two years.i will never own another ford.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    That's why so many shoppers went Japanese.
  • tollelegetollelege Member Posts: 10
    I performed the required O2 sensor replacement indicated by the DTC code on my 97 Plymouth Voyager. The shop manual says that the codes need to be cleared by use of a DRB scan tool. Is there a way I can do this without having to locate a DRB scan tool. In the past, my local Autozone has been happy to scan the codes but said they were not allowed to clear them.

    Thanks in advance.
  • lonnyclonnyc Member Posts: 3
    Ok I have a junk Ford (2000 Windstar) that I have done many adjustments to. The most recent AND most expensive was the transmission (only 48000 miles). Now I THINK one of the pulleys has come apart. It's a belt that is located on the passenger side near the bottom. The van runs but makes a HORRIBLE fast and loud clacking noise. I try to find online diagrams of the Windstar but no luck. Can anyone at least point me in the right direction by telling me what this pulley/belt is called?
  • 92acura92acura Member Posts: 1
    Just had a garage change radiator hoses. got car home and the engine surges from approx 800 to 1400 rpm. hear a ticking noise near the fuel filter while this is happening. Is this a throttle sensor problem?
  • paprovincepaprovince Member Posts: 1
    1993 MB 190E 2.3 Anyone have experience taking the cylinder head off a 190E? This is the first time I've ever done engine work and I'm having problems.

    I'm following the Haynes guide for 1984-1988's and also an online service (alldatadiy.com). Everything has been disconnected according to the books, but something on the intake side is still apparently attached. When I pump the hoist I can see the exhaust side seperating slightly, but the intake side stays firm. :mad:

    The books recommend leaving both manifolds attached when removing the head ... any opinions if that's easier?

    Any advice, I'd appreciate.
  • pavlovsdogpavlovsdog Member Posts: 6
    Just bought a used toyota camry (02 19000 miles) and it runs great. After driving though, I notice as i exit the vehicle there is a clicking noise coming from underneath the car. It lasts for about 3 minutes....it is a steady clicking and not very erratic. I've heard people say "settling noises" are common for cars, but I was wondering if anyone thinks this is something I should get checked out.
  • baumbaum Member Posts: 15
    I'm back!! I was told by a wonderful member here to check the TCU (transmission control unit) that was located under the passengers seat. Under the seat was a box, looking from behind the seat, I saw a LED light. Once I turned my ignition on, the light started to flash. I counted the flashes...7 quick flashes, about a 2 1/2 second pause, followed by 8 more quick flashes.
    Now I am off to figure out what those codes mean.
    Does anyone know what the codes 7 and 8 are?
    Thank :D
  • green5green5 Member Posts: 22
    Anyone who owns an Acura TL, can you explain to me how the engine of the acura tl performs. I understand how the Ram-Air engines work on Pontiac Grandams, but I do not fully understand how the VTECH engines work on the Acuras.

    It seems that the engines keep more momentum, then air.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's all you need to know....but first you need to know how to spell it :P

    http://www.teamdelsol.com/technical/techstuff/vtec/

    Anyway, there are various types of VTEC out there, but all relate to varying the camshaft profile to get the "best of all worlds" in everyday driving.

    VTEC is not a Honda invention. Simpler versions were introduced in regular passenger cars by Alfa Romeo in about 1980 but more for emissions than performance.
  • dmwill1dmwill1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I have a 1993 Saturn SL1. The transmission jerks going into second. When you sit idling there seems to be a fairly strong vibration holding the steering wheel and if you hold your foot on the brake and put it in reverse as it shifts you can see the motor rock and holding your foot on the brake as it's in reverse it makes a heavy clicking sound almost as if the fan is knocking on something. It's that fast and consistent of a sound. Once you put it in drive and accelerate forward after jerking into 2nd and drive a little ways it goes away. When you slow down and stop you can hear it and up until you cut it off you can hear it. If you start the car and just sit it doesn't do it. Drives fine except the jerk in 2nd. It has 139000 miles on it. Can anyone help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like you might want to check your motor/transmission mounts. You have all the symptoms.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    http://www.troublecodes.net/acura/88-5991-96vlin.shtml
  • lidorimolidorimo Member Posts: 2
    when u drive the truck and accelerate the throttle stays at the same rpm untill u let of and reapply, the truck is a automatic and doesn't auto shift untill u let off the accerlator, so like when going from 0-60 rpm's stay high then when u let off it drops the rpm and then shifts and aslo sometimes stalls going from drive to reverse i find that strange
  • mpurcellmpurcell Member Posts: 1
    I have searched the database without successfully finding a discussion pertaining to the following subject: 1989 ford mustang gt vapor lock. I've had mechanics diagnose the problem without success. They've replaced oxygen sensors, however, check engine light continues to flash and engine stall continues to be a nagging problem.

    Any possible solutions out there?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    These are normal noises.

    It is the engine, mainly the exhaust system, cooling down and contracting. The steel then pops, snap, and creaks as it cools down.

    I'm surprised you have never heard this in one of your cars.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Yep, I also vote for broken motor/transmission mount.

    You need to get this fixed. The noise 'almost as if the fan is knocking on something' probably is the fan actually KNOCKING ON SOMETHING!

    Because of the broken mount, the motor is moving farther than it is designed to move, and probably hitting the shroud around the fan. No good.
  • baumbaum Member Posts: 15
    Hi
    Does anyone know where the connectors for the shift control solenoid valves are located? All of the connectors behind my battery have corrossion all over them....could this be it? :confuse:
    Thanks :)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    What trouble code #'s were retrieved?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Passenger side upper mount broken and grounding out.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I doubt "vapor lock" is your problem on a fuel injected car. Highly unlikely. That's a weird diagnosis IMO. Sounds like whoever is working on your car is guessing bigtime. You need to have someone get back to basics checking fuel pressure in the injection rail, various sensors, etc.
  • sshelton007sshelton007 Member Posts: 2
    My '99 Seville SLS (about 43K miles) occasionally won't fire...the engine turns, but it just won't fire and start. It happens when the engine is hot or cold...doesn't seem to matter. Dealership can't fix it unless it happens while hooked up to an analysis machine...which is a "crap shoot", at best. Usually it starts up fine after a few seconds...but another time it was a good hour before it would start again. Any suggestions or someone with a similar problem?
  • gsmithsongsmithson Member Posts: 1
    My lighter has come out of the colored dashboard area near the top. It
    looks like a piece of metal that was screwed inside to the back of the
    lighter loosened. I have taken the two screws out from the bottom of the
    colored dashboard plastic near the cup holders. What else do I need to do
    to remove the plastic area?

    Thanks in advance
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Failing Fuel Pump. It's inside the fuel take. Replace the whole 'assembly', which includes the guage float.

    or

    Fuel Pressure Regulator. It's on the fuel rail. Remove the vacumn line, when you get it started and it's idleing. If any fuel comes out of the regulator, it needs replaced.

    or

    Fuel filter needs changed - a load of dirty gas has plugged it up.

    Get a pressure gauge on the fuel system. There is a schrader fitting on the fuel rail. The dealership should know how to deal with this problem.
  • littlebitmishlittlebitmish Member Posts: 4
    It should NOT happen. What people expect is for a $ 49,000 should NOT BE a plastic manifold. Yea PLASTIC. This is a true Ford problem. And guess what, Ford is closing their eyes to it. They have already lost 2 class actions lawsuits about this manifold thing.
  • lemmerlemmer Member Posts: 2,689
    This should be easy for someone.

    What does it mean when a vehicle doesn't like to back up an inclined driveway - the engine revs but the transmission just slips and doesn't really make any progress. Going forwards it doesn't have this problem to nearly a large of extent.

    New transmission? Low on fluid? $25? $2500?

    The vehicle in question is a 1999 Jeep Cherokee.
  • littlebitmishlittlebitmish Member Posts: 4
    I understand that. But still I am VERY disturbed about foreign cars. Live in America, buy American. I understand sometimes its difficult, but at least try. Your single biggest investment is your house, you, buy here in America right? The second biggest investment is your vehicle, shouldn't it be American made too. Try to keep US dollars in the US and your family and neighbors working. I get PISSED OFF when I see a foreign car decorated with American Flags and War support stickers. If your out of work and homeless-----Live in your import and stop complaining. Please DO NOT misunderstand what I am saying I have no disrespect for your comment. Unfortunately its true. Being able to buy foreign is what this country is based on FREEDOMS. Thanks for listening.
  • littlebitmishlittlebitmish Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your honesty. I have had much trouble with Fords. I have also had much trouble with GM Caddy. I LOVE and must drive a HUGE car. I started to drive in the (throat clear, throat clear) mid 70's when all the cars were HUGE. I drove a huge Delta 88 (tranny) and an even more huge 1977 Linc town W/ a 460 enging (truck engine) and a HUGE 4 barrell. I tried for a very short time with a smaller vehicle i couldn't drive it. I just couldnt get comfortable and felt unsafe and too closed in. I am in my (throat clear, throat clear) 40 somethings and believe me i am only 5ft 1in I have to have a big car and right now a Lincoln Town is the biggest. thanks for your honest feedback and listening GOOD LUCK with whatever vehicle your driving now!!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Start with the basics and check the trans fluid level.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Let's stay on topic please and try to focus our comments on technical problems.

    thank you

    Host
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "It should NOT happen. What people expect is for a $ 49,000 should NOT BE a plastic manifold. Yea PLASTIC. This is a true Ford problem. And guess what, Ford is closing their eyes to it."

    Ford is only one of numerous carmakers who've made the switch to composite intakes. BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, General Motors, Chrysler and others have been replacing metal with composite intakes for almost a decade. Today thermoplastics, essentially nylon 6/6 and nylon, have a 35% share of global air intake manifold applications, with aluminum accounting for almost all of the rest. Broken down by region, plastics have the highest share in Europe (50%), the smallest in Asia (less than 5%) and around 40% in North America.

    As with any emerging technology, some engineering and application problems have been encountered.

    Thermplastics typically weigh in at about 30% less than the metal parts they replace and weight reduction is necessary, especially for those such as yourself who claim that they "LOVE and must drive a HUGE car". Hmmm.......
  • zcruiserzcruiser Member Posts: 2
    How do you remove the crankshaft pulley on a 95 Rodeo? I have tried an impact wrench and nothing moved. Is there a secret????
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    yes first it was aluminum,now we are seeing composites.the bad thing about ford's intake is that some Einstein at ford decided to hang the alternator bracket off the weakest part of that intake.that part was that coolant crossover portion of the intake.a weak part and the belt tension working on it,this intake was doomed from the begining.
  • lele1lele1 Member Posts: 1
    I came home from work everything was going fine never had any signs of problems. after 10 minutes I went back to my car and the car wouldn't start, no headlights, my horn didn't work, my automatic seats wouldn't work, my trunk wouldn't open, my doors wouldn't unlock, tried to jump start it no luck, the only thing with any life is my red theft light blinking. Would also like to note that I bought a new battery 1 year ago. Any idea what it could be?
  • mla925mla925 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue today with my 1996 Sunfire .. had some work done and all was fine for several short distance trips today until I went 40 miles and tired to turn it off .. anti-theft light went on (for the first time since 1996!) and the key will not come out of the ignition.

    Can it be reset? Help! I can't leave the car anywhere until this is fixed ... frove 40 miles back home to where the work was done, and they're "thinkin' on it" ...
  • pisciottapisciotta Member Posts: 54
    On todays new car especially sports cars can you over rev your engine or is there rev limiters that stop you from damaging your engine?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    They're tight. Try spraying the bolt area with a good penetrating oil such as PB Blaster and let it soak in for a while.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    GM's had their problems with their 3.8's too. They like to burn through the upper plenum where the EGR tube is, filling the lower valley and eventually the cylinders with coolant.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Blow-by isn't through the exhaust....blow by means that due to either weak piston rings or excessive crankcase pressure, combustion gases are entering the crankcase and existing through the engines breather hose or oil filler cap....if you open the hood and take off the oil filler cap and your engine looks like a 1950s steam locomotive from your Lionel train set, that's blow by.

    If you mean you have blue smoke coming out one side of a dual exhaust system, that's most often worn piston rings or, under conditions of high vacuum (engine coasting in gear), work valve guides or seals.

    So clean your PCV valve thoroughly and if that doesn't help, do a wet/dry compression test or better yet a cylinder leakdown test.

    It's an easy engine to rebuild or even just "freshen up" with new rings if the cylinders aren't egg-shaped.
  • riceburner1riceburner1 Member Posts: 5
    Are there any Zerks on a 2000 Honda Civic Ex?
  • robbinlkrobbinlk Member Posts: 1
    Please help,
    When trying to start the starter is clicking
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