My '95 Chevy Cavalier is making me mad! I came home and when i tried shutting my car off the key wouldn't turn to the off position...so my key is stuck in the ignition and i can't turn my car completely off. What is causing this?? I disconnected my battery for the night so it won't die. Can anyone tell me why i can't turn my key all the way back and why i can't get it out of the ignition??
I do own a 2000 jaguar s-type. Yesterday i did park on a hill and had a hard time shifting the gear from "PARK". I did try shifting the gear hard but in vain, then had to call a friend of mine who happens to have one and told me to get out of the car and ask for help to push it alittle then try shifting the gear. It worked this time around. Weird huh!!!
Now whenever i try shifting dtom PARK to either R or D etc etc, the car doesn't move, untill i shift the gear around from P to 2, then back to D, then the car moves. What shall I do???
Sounds like something has loosened up or bent in the shift linkage. You'll need a Jaguar mechanic to look at that. Might not be a big deal. You could have stressed something or knocked it out of alignment---perhaps a plastic bushing etc.
The parking pawl (a lever internal in the transmission) was binding against the parking gear. The linkage has been slightly distorted, but can be adjusted. To prevent a recurrence, apply the parking brake before shifting to park when parking on grades.
I have a vacuum advance problem on my Tercel carburated 3E 1500cc engine: How do I tell if the vacuum is actually working? There is vacuum from the carb via the two hoses that connect to the vacuum advancer. When I apply a low vacuum to the vacuum advancer there is no detectable reaction from the linkage in the distributor. In fact, I can hear air rushing thru the unit. Can the unit be repaired? Or must I replace the entire distributor?
I'm not sure what you are asking.... which is easiest to repair? pretty much all cars these days are equally complex.
I don't think you mean the Grand Am, though, since that is only a coupe now. I'm assuming you mean the Grand Prix. And, since you are looking for sportiness, maybe you are lookin at the V8 version? If so, I think a V8 FWD layout is going to add more complexity to self-repairs due to cramming so much under the hood (as if space wasn't limited enough under the hoods these days).
If you want to talk sportiness aspects ... not really the topic to do it in. Try the comparison board.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
My oil pressure gauge in my 1990 4runner is staying below the low mark. This began 2 days ago. I am wondering if the gauge is stuck or if indeed my pressure may be low. Would my car still be running (engine temp is normal, no other signs after 50 or so miles) if my oil pump/oil sending unit has failed? I know I could visit the mechanic and have him hook up his pressure gauge to the oil sending unit, but I'm wondering if its neccessary or if I can just chalk it up to a stuck oil pressure gauge.
I have had a lot of bad sending units.My feeling is if your pressure were low,I would expect some engine noise(lifters,knocking).if you do not see a whole lot of change between a cold engine and warm,i would replace the sending unit first then have the pressure verified if needed.
Hey folks, when I turn the windshield wiper off, they don't return to the normal "closed" position on bottom of windshield. They go all the way up and stop. When this first happenned, I was able to trick them into staying down if I got the right combination of on/off commands quickly enough. Now there is no hope. This black demon has fangs. Any directions? I was thinking Windshield wiper module, but need to get a Hanes/Chilton's to figure out where that is, if this indeed is the problem. No other electrical problems in a 150k car, other than 1 blown fuse in the cigarette lighter, which has been replaced and no problems since.
The problem isn't electrical, but in the crank arm or the tab on the motor bracket. There may be some kind of "wiper motor service kit" that replaces the worn out parts. The technical term for your problem is that your wipers won't "park".
All I want to know is which would be better in porformance and style. My friend has ford mustang, but however, I've read that the new mustangs arn't that well built right now. All are pretty much experiencing a lot of problems
I like the mustang, but I am worried about the repairs that will come after buying it. I do must of my own mechanic work, unless it is something too major to repair.
I am mostly a Japanese car fan, however, seeing the interior of my friend's mustang, I like them. They have had a good rating from 03-04, but so far the redesigned ones are having some problems.
Hi I seem to be having the same problem with my 1990 Acura Legend. My 1990 Acura Legend is having some shifting problems. It has an automatic transmission. This happens totally randomly, usually when it is hot outside.... my car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I accelerate from a stop, it lags, like I am starting in 2nd or 3rd gear. And when I am driving above 30 MPH, my RPM's don't go down, like I'm not shifting into a higher gear. Also, I notice on my dash that the "S3" light flashes. Could this be a transmission problem or something easier? Some guy told me that the Transmission Control Unit had sensed a faulty code and to take it to the shop to check it out...... Too much money for that!! Have you found the problem? What couldit be? :confuse:
Hi Mr. Shiftright: I am about to have the 4th tensioner put it so I asked the "new" mechanic WHY the first 3 (last one put in May 31st) haven't worked. His answer was that this one is BENT. Now, I am more confused than ever. Would you think this means that the previous mechanic who did the first 3 just didn't know how to do it, OR, do you think there is something wrong with my car that "bends" the tensioners? This may sound like a stupid question, but honestly, I don't have a clue and needed to ask before spending more money on the 4th. Also, if the tensioner is bent (again) I'm wondering if I also need a 4th serpentine belt??? Thanks...
I don't see how you can "bend" a tensioner, as this is a cast part. There's really nothing to bend. I dunno, the whole thing sounds nuts to me. Wish I could look at it but....maybe the other mechanic was just a gorilla and forced something into place?
My ECM diagnostic check gave a 'code 27' which refers to the above sensor. This is an expensive part, so before replacing it, I wonder if the problem may be a corroded contact or open cicuit, rather than the sensor itself. Also, is anyone familiar with replacing this sensor? My guess is that is could be difficult to remove nuts and bolts that have been roasted regularly by the exhaust over a 13 year period. Any comments would be much appreciated.
Hello--when I am going very slowly (for example - in the parking deck) & not really giving it any gas, my car will shift from 1st gear into neutral all on its own (I have a manual transmission). This has only been happening within the past 3 or so months. I know how to avoid it so it doesn't happen all the time, but I've decided it's proably about time to get it fixed. Have you heard of this happening before? If so, please let me know what the problem is so that I don't spend a lot of time & $$ at the dealer.
when I had this happen on my old jeep, it was because the gears were getting worn and the edges of the teeth were rounded. In other words, I had to rebuild the transmission.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'm not sure about a linkage problem since I would think this would cause actual shifting problems and not just have the car popping out of gear .... unless, I suppose, if it were never going fully into 1st gear to begin with due to the linkage .... so I suppose its possible. So, ok, having something bent is possible ... I don't think we'll be able to determine that without actually taking it apart ... or at least driving it ourselves and seeing what it "feels" like.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sister's car makes a thumping noise. Sounds like a bubble on the right rear tire but tires are fine. One garage said it was a build up of salt and sand in brakes. Well it is now Aug. and it's still there. It is not constant but sure is scary. Almost sounds like a flat. No one seems to have any answers. Anyone out there have any ideas. Help is appreciated. Thanks
"One garage said it was a build up of salt and sand in brakes"
What are some of these mechanics putting in their water out there?
You should have the tire taken off and inspected, as well as taking a good look at the rear shock/spring to see if anything is loose. If this happens only on certain road surfaces, that might be more or less normal.
Well I suppose first thing you could do is have the linkage checked to make sure you are getting a full "throw" into first gear. If that's okay, then I'd guess an internal transmission problem but not a total rebuild.
Hi! I am new to this site and I am hoping someone could help me? My 1990 Acura Legend is having some shifting problems. It has an automatic transmission. This happens totally randomly, usually when it is hot outside.... my car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I accelerate from a stop, it lags, like I am starting in 2nd or 3rd gear. And when I am driving above 30 MPH, my RPM's don't go down, like I'm not shifting into a higher gear. Also, I notice on my dash that the "S3" light flashes. Could this be a transmission problem or something else? Thanks in advance for your help
Well a linkage adjustment shouldn't be too much, but to go into the transmission could get pricey. The trick here is to find a shop that can fix what is wrong without going into a wholesale rebuild. There is what is called "a small parts rebuild" which is probably more than enough for your case, presuming the gears are not damaged.
The argument goes that once you have a transmission out and apart, why not do it all? Well that makes some sense but if there is an obvious problem (like a bent shifting fork) and no other apparent damage, maybe a new fork and slider and some bearings would do the trick for you.
so what I'm saying is that you have to go to a shop you really trust because once they have your transmission out and in pieces on the floor, you have lost all bargaining power and you are at their mercy. So get a plan and estimate and insist on a good talk with them about "what if THIS and what if THAT".
"I" sure wish you could look at this too. Its real tiring and expensive to keep replacing this part. I have yet to drive this car at any time where I haven't had one problem or another. I took it out yesterday (I haven't used it much, due to being ill) and drove about 50 miles. Got to my destination and low and behold the main door lock would not work. (The lock that controls all 4 doors). Immediately I thought a fuse had gone, BUT, then noticed it would "unlock" all 4s but not lock them. I'm now wondering if I have an electrical problem? This obviously has not been the "fun" small car I anticipated.
About the tensioner, I can't see that even if a "gorilla" LOL bent it one time, he'd bend it 3 more. I am wondering and intend to ask, how does it bend if it is a cast part...It may sound nuts to you, as it does me (now that you've made it clear it is a cast part) but it is driving ME nuts!!!
I've about had it with this car. My $3,500 payment for it in Sept. '04 has now "literally" doubled with the repairs I've put into it. Lots of money for a 1995 Cavalier no?
Thanks Mr. Shiftright. I wish I could find a mechanic of your caliber here, so I'd get some definitive answers and know if I should just give up on this vehicle. Financially, LOL right now the only alternative would be a bicycle as I've sunk so much into this.
My mom has a S60 and wants to replace the battery before it fails. The dealer quotes her a price of $200. Why is it so expensive? Does the S60 have a special battery, or will a generic fit the bill?
I tried asking this question on the Volvo S60 forum and didn't get a response.
I should have mentioned that the battery is located in the trunk. If a conventional battery is used will the fumes cause corrosion. Maybe the OEM battery is something special. My miata has a special sealed glass mat battery so corrosive fumes are not a concern.
the s60 battery is in the trunk?? really?? huh, live and learn.
well, again, i would trust that the battery manufacturer knows what they are doing and if they say XYZ battery model #001 is going to be a direct replacement, then I would trust it. You can always bring in the old one and compare them side by side if you are still doubtful.
by the way, there should be no more harmful fumes in your trunk than in your engine compartment ... if there are... something is wrong.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The timing belt broke while I was at a stop sign. It made no noise, it just died. The mechanic said I had no compression on #3 piston. When I showed up at the shop the head was off. the piston was caked with 135,000 miles worth of carbon but I could not find a mark or piece of chipped carbon on the piston OR the valves. I poured water in the exhaust hole and it gushed out both exhaust valves. The cam was off. Is it possible to bend valves that badly with no evidence? The guy knew I was coming but didn't know I would be there that soon. He knew that I was skepticle about the valves being bent. Did he do something to bend them or is it really possible to bend valves without a mark?
So what you mean is that the mechanic first put a new timing belt on, then did a compression test, and found no compression in #3 is that right?
You may not be able to see the bent valve but it is odd that there are no marks on the piston....of course, it only has to "kiss the valve" lightly.
I'd say if you are really skeptical take the valve to a machine shop. Also make sure your engine is indeed an "interference fit" engine where the piston and valve will touch if the belt breaks.
did you authorize him to take the head off? If not, check with your local consumer affairs bureau or district attorney, to see if there are laws in place in your state to require notification of the owner before performing work.
So what you mean is that the mechanic first put a new timing belt on, then did a compression test, and found no compression in #3 is that right? --Yes, I guess I forgot to mention that.
You may not be able to see the bent valve but it is odd that there are no marks on the piston....of course, it only has to "kiss the valve" lightly. --Is it possible that the built up carbon hid the damage? It seems weird to me especially because I could actually see daylight through the gap in the valves through the exhaust hole. It seems like damage that bad would make a pretty visible mark on the valves AND the piston.
I'd say if you are really skeptical take the valve to a machine shop. Also make sure your engine is indeed an "interference fit" engine where the piston and valve will touch if the belt breaks. --it IS an interference fit engine.
did you authorize him to take the head off? If not, check with your local consumer affairs bureau or district attorney, to see if there are laws in place in your state to require notification of the owner before performing work --I did.
Hi all, I recently have a problem with the AC in my car. The 1-2-3 fan speeds would not work, the 4th speed does, however. So it either blows really strong or does not blow at all. I researched a bit on the internet and found out that the problem could be caused by the resistor, and was recommended to replace it. But I do not know the location of the resistor in my car, is it underneath the glove compartment? Is it directly in view or is it behind something? Thanks all!
Comments
I don't know what a "conversion gasket set" is exactly....or even non-exactly.....
Great time to replace all the belts and hoses or at least look 'em over real good.
So, why did the head gasket blow? Did the car overheat? Badly? How quickly?
I think I'd have the heads checked to see if they are bent (scary comment I know....sorry).
Now whenever i try shifting dtom PARK to either R or D etc etc, the car doesn't move, untill i shift the gear around from P to 2, then back to D, then the car moves. What shall I do???
I do mostly my own repair and maintance.
There is vacuum from the carb via the two hoses that connect to the vacuum advancer. When I apply a low vacuum to the vacuum advancer there is no detectable reaction from the linkage in the distributor. In fact, I can hear air rushing thru the unit. Can the unit be repaired? Or must I replace the entire distributor?
I don't think you mean the Grand Am, though, since that is only a coupe now. I'm assuming you mean the Grand Prix. And, since you are looking for sportiness, maybe you are lookin at the V8 version? If so, I think a V8 FWD layout is going to add more complexity to self-repairs due to cramming so much under the hood (as if space wasn't limited enough under the hoods these days).
If you want to talk sportiness aspects ... not really the topic to do it in. Try the comparison board.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Any directions? I was thinking Windshield wiper module, but need to get a Hanes/Chilton's to figure out where that is, if this indeed is the problem.
No other electrical problems in a 150k car, other than 1 blown fuse in the cigarette lighter, which has been replaced and no problems since.
I like the mustang, but I am worried about the repairs that will come after buying it. I do must of my own mechanic work, unless it is something too major to repair.
I am mostly a Japanese car fan, however, seeing the interior of my friend's mustang, I like them. They have had a good rating from 03-04, but so far the redesigned ones are having some problems.
I seem to be having the same problem with my 1990 Acura Legend.
My 1990 Acura Legend is having some shifting problems. It has an automatic transmission. This happens totally randomly, usually when it is hot outside.... my car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I accelerate from a stop, it lags, like I am starting in 2nd or 3rd gear. And when I am driving above 30 MPH, my RPM's don't go down, like I'm not shifting into a higher gear. Also, I notice on my dash that the "S3" light flashes.
Could this be a transmission problem or something easier?
Some guy told me that the Transmission Control Unit had sensed a faulty code and to take it to the shop to check it out...... Too much money for that!! Have you found the problem? What couldit be? :confuse:
Candie
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
What are some of these mechanics putting in their water out there?
You should have the tire taken off and inspected, as well as taking a good look at the rear shock/spring to see if anything is loose. If this happens only on certain road surfaces, that might be more or less normal.
I am new to this site and I am hoping someone could help me?
My 1990 Acura Legend is having some shifting problems. It has an automatic transmission. This happens totally randomly, usually when it is hot outside.... my car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear.
Could this be a transmission problem or something else?
Thanks in advance for your help
The argument goes that once you have a transmission out and apart, why not do it all? Well that makes some sense but if there is an obvious problem (like a bent shifting fork) and no other apparent damage, maybe a new fork and slider and some bearings would do the trick for you.
so what I'm saying is that you have to go to a shop you really trust because once they have your transmission out and in pieces on the floor, you have lost all bargaining power and you are at their mercy. So get a plan and estimate and insist on a good talk with them about "what if THIS and what if THAT".
About the tensioner, I can't see that even if a "gorilla" LOL
I've about had it with this car. My $3,500 payment for it in Sept. '04 has now "literally" doubled with the repairs I've put into it. Lots of money for a 1995 Cavalier no?
Thanks Mr. Shiftright. I wish I could find a mechanic of your caliber here, so I'd get some definitive answers and know if I should just give up on this vehicle. Financially, LOL right now the only alternative would be a bicycle as I've sunk so much into this.
The dealer quotes her a price of $200.
Why is it so expensive?
Does the S60 have a special battery, or will a generic fit the bill?
I tried asking this question on the Volvo S60 forum and didn't get a response.
Thanks.....paddy
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If a conventional battery is used will the fumes cause corrosion.
Maybe the OEM battery is something special.
My miata has a special sealed glass mat battery so corrosive fumes are not a concern.
well, again, i would trust that the battery manufacturer knows what they are doing and if they say XYZ battery model #001 is going to be a direct replacement, then I would trust it. You can always bring in the old one and compare them side by side if you are still doubtful.
by the way, there should be no more harmful fumes in your trunk than in your engine compartment ... if there are... something is wrong.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You may not be able to see the bent valve but it is odd that there are no marks on the piston....of course, it only has to "kiss the valve" lightly.
I'd say if you are really skeptical take the valve to a machine shop. Also make sure your engine is indeed an "interference fit" engine where the piston and valve will touch if the belt breaks.
did you authorize him to take the head off? If not, check with your local consumer affairs bureau or district attorney, to see if there are laws in place in your state to require notification of the owner before performing work.
--Yes, I guess I forgot to mention that.
You may not be able to see the bent valve but it is odd that there are no marks on the piston....of course, it only has to "kiss the valve" lightly.
--Is it possible that the built up carbon hid the damage? It seems weird to me especially because I could actually see daylight through the gap in the valves through the exhaust hole. It seems like damage that bad would make a pretty visible mark on the valves AND the piston.
I'd say if you are really skeptical take the valve to a machine shop. Also make sure your engine is indeed an "interference fit" engine where the piston and valve will touch if the belt breaks.
--it IS an interference fit engine.
did you authorize him to take the head off? If not, check with your local consumer affairs bureau or district attorney, to see if there are laws in place in your state to require notification of the owner before performing work
--I did.
Is this a reputable shop? Have you dealt with them before?