Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I don't know what a "conversion gasket set" is exactly....or even non-exactly.....
Great time to replace all the belts and hoses or at least look 'em over real good.
So, why did the head gasket blow? Did the car overheat? Badly? How quickly?
I think I'd have the heads checked to see if they are bent (scary comment I know....sorry).
Now whenever i try shifting dtom PARK to either R or D etc etc, the car doesn't move, untill i shift the gear around from P to 2, then back to D, then the car moves. What shall I do???
I do mostly my own repair and maintance.
There is vacuum from the carb via the two hoses that connect to the vacuum advancer. When I apply a low vacuum to the vacuum advancer there is no detectable reaction from the linkage in the distributor. In fact, I can hear air rushing thru the unit. Can the unit be repaired? Or must I replace the entire distributor?
I don't think you mean the Grand Am, though, since that is only a coupe now. I'm assuming you mean the Grand Prix. And, since you are looking for sportiness, maybe you are lookin at the V8 version? If so, I think a V8 FWD layout is going to add more complexity to self-repairs due to cramming so much under the hood (as if space wasn't limited enough under the hoods these days).
If you want to talk sportiness aspects ... not really the topic to do it in. Try the comparison board.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Any directions? I was thinking Windshield wiper module, but need to get a Hanes/Chilton's to figure out where that is, if this indeed is the problem.
No other electrical problems in a 150k car, other than 1 blown fuse in the cigarette lighter, which has been replaced and no problems since.
I like the mustang, but I am worried about the repairs that will come after buying it. I do must of my own mechanic work, unless it is something too major to repair.
I am mostly a Japanese car fan, however, seeing the interior of my friend's mustang, I like them. They have had a good rating from 03-04, but so far the redesigned ones are having some problems.
I seem to be having the same problem with my 1990 Acura Legend.
My 1990 Acura Legend is having some shifting problems. It has an automatic transmission. This happens totally randomly, usually when it is hot outside.... my car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I accelerate from a stop, it lags, like I am starting in 2nd or 3rd gear. And when I am driving above 30 MPH, my RPM's don't go down, like I'm not shifting into a higher gear. Also, I notice on my dash that the "S3" light flashes.
Could this be a transmission problem or something easier?
Some guy told me that the Transmission Control Unit had sensed a faulty code and to take it to the shop to check it out...... Too much money for that!! Have you found the problem? What couldit be? :confuse:
Candie
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
What are some of these mechanics putting in their water out there?
You should have the tire taken off and inspected, as well as taking a good look at the rear shock/spring to see if anything is loose. If this happens only on certain road surfaces, that might be more or less normal.
I am new to this site and I am hoping someone could help me?
My 1990 Acura Legend is having some shifting problems. It has an automatic transmission. This happens totally randomly, usually when it is hot outside.... my car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear.
Could this be a transmission problem or something else?
Thanks in advance for your help
The argument goes that once you have a transmission out and apart, why not do it all? Well that makes some sense but if there is an obvious problem (like a bent shifting fork) and no other apparent damage, maybe a new fork and slider and some bearings would do the trick for you.
so what I'm saying is that you have to go to a shop you really trust because once they have your transmission out and in pieces on the floor, you have lost all bargaining power and you are at their mercy. So get a plan and estimate and insist on a good talk with them about "what if THIS and what if THAT".
About the tensioner, I can't see that even if a "gorilla" LOL
I've about had it with this car. My $3,500 payment for it in Sept. '04 has now "literally" doubled with the repairs I've put into it. Lots of money for a 1995 Cavalier no?
Thanks Mr. Shiftright. I wish I could find a mechanic of your caliber here, so I'd get some definitive answers and know if I should just give up on this vehicle. Financially, LOL right now the only alternative would be a bicycle as I've sunk so much into this.
The dealer quotes her a price of $200.
Why is it so expensive?
Does the S60 have a special battery, or will a generic fit the bill?
I tried asking this question on the Volvo S60 forum and didn't get a response.
Thanks.....paddy
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If a conventional battery is used will the fumes cause corrosion.
Maybe the OEM battery is something special.
My miata has a special sealed glass mat battery so corrosive fumes are not a concern.
well, again, i would trust that the battery manufacturer knows what they are doing and if they say XYZ battery model #001 is going to be a direct replacement, then I would trust it. You can always bring in the old one and compare them side by side if you are still doubtful.
by the way, there should be no more harmful fumes in your trunk than in your engine compartment ... if there are... something is wrong.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You may not be able to see the bent valve but it is odd that there are no marks on the piston....of course, it only has to "kiss the valve" lightly.
I'd say if you are really skeptical take the valve to a machine shop. Also make sure your engine is indeed an "interference fit" engine where the piston and valve will touch if the belt breaks.
did you authorize him to take the head off? If not, check with your local consumer affairs bureau or district attorney, to see if there are laws in place in your state to require notification of the owner before performing work.
--Yes, I guess I forgot to mention that.
You may not be able to see the bent valve but it is odd that there are no marks on the piston....of course, it only has to "kiss the valve" lightly.
--Is it possible that the built up carbon hid the damage? It seems weird to me especially because I could actually see daylight through the gap in the valves through the exhaust hole. It seems like damage that bad would make a pretty visible mark on the valves AND the piston.
I'd say if you are really skeptical take the valve to a machine shop. Also make sure your engine is indeed an "interference fit" engine where the piston and valve will touch if the belt breaks.
--it IS an interference fit engine.
did you authorize him to take the head off? If not, check with your local consumer affairs bureau or district attorney, to see if there are laws in place in your state to require notification of the owner before performing work
--I did.
Is this a reputable shop? Have you dealt with them before?