Got a Quick, Technical Question?

misty1298

I want to thank all who gave suggestions as to what the problem could be. It has now been solved. Would you believe it needed rear brakes???? Thanks again.

Mr_Shiftright

There are rev limiters but they only operate electronically. So you can't over-rev with the gas pedal but you can over-rev if you downshift on a manual trans car and you are in the wrong gear when you downshift (like downshifting from 4th to 1st at 50 mph).

jvelandria

It all started when my fuse for the door locks kept blowing out then out of nowhere i came home went back out to my car to leave and no power no interior lights,no radio, nothing just put a new battery in 2 months ago. when i disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes, it starts back up now it flashes security/battery/service engine soon i can hear a ticking noise coming from the passager side fuse box and the interior light will flicker sometimes today out of nowhere the fob horn was going on and off about 15 mins apart. any suggestions would be helpful cant get it to the dealer until next week :confuse:

shano

96 jeep cherokee top radiator hose to hot to touch bottom hose cool as after ten minutes whats it suggest?reading 230 degrees

pisciotta

Thanks I just wanted to make sure you couldn't over rev your engine causing damage (like red lining) not that I did it, But my friend red lined his engine!

monte3

hows it going? i would like to know how to change the rear spark plugs in a 1990 caddy coupe deville. thanks

Mr_Shiftright

Well the "redline" isn't necessarily always safe in the sense that engine wear will be higher up there---it rather depends on the car, too, as to how much time you can spend in the "redline".

lilweezy

How do I take the ceiling down in my 98 Grand Marquis. I need to search for a wire that I believe is grounding out. Thank you.

sunshine9

Over 60 mph my Trailblazer has a vibration that makes the whole vehicle vibrate. The faster I go, the more it vibrates. Although I can always feel a slight vibration and hear a "road noise" sound that seems to accompany it, it sometimes vibrates less than at other times. I cannot isolate when the vibration is worse, though. Under 60 mph, I can't tell there is a problem at all. Any idea of what this could be? I'm wondering how much this problem could cost me!

imidazol97

Start with the cheaper options and most likely option.

If the road sound changes, it may be a tire out of balance, a wheel that is out-of-round, a tire with a belt that's is bad (got one of those on my car), or a tire with uneven wear (from not rotation the tires regularly). Have the tires been rotated regularly per GM's suggestion for your car--6-8000 miles probably?

A tire inspection where they spin the wheel on the car to see if visual problems are on the tire. Then have the tires rotated. If the sound changes and moves to the new location for that tire, you've got a tire problem. If the sound and shake stays, it is something in the drivetrain.

churro

Hello Everyone....
Just replaced engine to my 85,but since I got my car back driving in freeway just fine my car loses power and the overdrive turns on and off.
Does somebody have any idea what to check,I've tired of going back to the shop where the engine was replaced without sucess.
Thanks.

meinman

89 sunbird 2L ohc .after replacing the head , oil will leak out between the head and the cam carrier .it never leak before the head job. cannot see why it would leak

pat

The "overdrive problem" post by churro was moved from another discussion - it refers to an '85 Camry.

meinman

regarding the oil leak on the head job .the manual calls for an anaerobic sealant tobe apply to the cam carrier.i used rtv silicon . will there be a difference in the sealant to cause a leak even after torquing it down

paddyk

Saw a Honda Civic hit the wrong gear at an autocross.
Mechanical over-rev.
Engine parts and oil all over the course. :sick:

Mr_Shiftright

Double danger on the race course, as hitting the wrong gear on the way down can not only grenade the engine but also cause severe "compression braking" and spin you out of control. Gated transmission shifters and of course paddle shifting help to prevent this.

On the vast majority of cars, you have no business at redline anyway, since on most engines horsepower is falling away or has leveled at that point.

monte3

there is no one that can help me change the rear plugs in a 1990 caddy coupe deville ">

taxesquire

On another post, there was a discussion regarding use of regular gas in cars requiring premium, and it's generally agreed that regular gas results in loss of performance and gas mileage. However, someone mentioned using 89 Octane was fine.

I know my car ('04 Acura TL) says premium, but technically recommends 91 Octane (premium is generally 92). Perhaps using 89 is close enough to 91? Perhaps minimum octane rating of 89 means the gas "averages" 90/91 octaine?

Any thoughts?

leidei

Does anyone know how to change spark plugs in a 2000 Chevy Tracker?

baum

I got this info. from AutoZone's website. Check it out at www.autozone.com

Spark Plug Removal
Spark plug replacement is part of the preventative maintenance program for all vehicles. The recommended replacement interval depends on a number of factors but ranges from 20,000 to 100,000 miles (32,000 to 160,000 km).

Removal of an engine's spark plugs is pretty straightforward.

Remove the cables from each plug, being careful not to pull on the cables. Instead, grasp the boot and gently twist it off (To save time and avoid confusion later, use masking tape to mark each of the cables with the number of the plug it attaches to).

Grab hold of the boot and twist while pulling it off a spark plug. Reprinted with permission.

Using a spark plug socket and ratchet, loosen each plug a couple of turns.
Once the spark plugs are loose, use compressed air to blow dirt away from the base of the plugs.
Then, remove the plugs making sure to remove the gasket as well if applicable.
When the spark plugs are removed, they should be set in order so the technician can identify the spark plug from each cylinder.


Spark Plug Installation
Regardless of what other tools may need to be used, a spark plug socket is essential for plug removal and installation.

Wipe dirt and grease from the plug seats with a clean cloth.
Be sure the gaskets on gasketed plugs are in good condition and properly placed on the plugs. If reusing a spark plug, install a new gasket on it. Be sure that there is only one gasket on each plug.
Adjust the air gap as needed.
Check the service manual to see if anti-seize compound should be applied to the plug's threads. If it should, do so now.
Install the plugs and tighten them with your hand. If the plugs cannot be installed easily by hand, the threads in the cylinder head may need to be cleaned with a thread-chasing tap. Be especially careful not to cross-thread the plugs when working with aluminum heads.
Tighten the plugs with a torque wrench, following the vehicle manufacturer's specifications, or refer to the values listed in the table below.





Look for More Parts
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Related Parts:


Distributor Cap

Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit


Lubricant For Electrical Connection

Rotor - Ignition


Wire Set




Spark Plug Conditions:

Cold Fouling
Gap Bridging
Glazing
Overheating
Preignition Damage
Splash Fouling
Turbulence Burning
Wet Fouling

baum

check out autozone's website or the reply I just posted below!

monte3

thank u very much 4 ur time,what i meant 2 say was do 2 the difficulty of reaching the rear spark plugs[transverse engine] on a 1990 coupe deville has anyone found an easy way 2 remove the plugs.

stickguy

can be a bear on a transverse V6

In some cases, the pro method was to loosen up the rear motor mount and rock the engine forward, but that isn't really a DIY activity for most people.

There are also articulated handles that make the job easier. Plus, having it on a lift and going from the bottom can help.

rddaves54

I have a 1991 Chrysler LeBaron and the air bag light is staying on. When it does stay on the air conditioning does not work. I disconnected the battery to clear the system and it only kept the air bag light off until I started it about after three miles. I have looked at the wiring on the engine and they seem to be connected. Everything else seems to be working fine.

I do have a problem with the odometer not working and the speedometer working on and off. What is causing this?

Any and all help would be appreciated.
:confuse:
Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright

You might check your fuse box. A blown fuse will light the airbag light. Most airbag light problems are related to a faulty impact sensor but you really can't mess with airbags yourself for safety reasons so you'll have to have a pro check it out for you.

sheilao3

I just picked my '94 Mercury Sable up from head gasket repair ($1200.00).

Ran fine the 1st day, but now it is not wanting to accerlate after I stop at a red light or stop sign, it sort of hops a little, the rpm meter goes up to 2 or 3,once even 7. It will sort of "burn rubber" then take off in a lurch.

Is this the transmission or is it at a related to the blown head gasket I just got repaired?

naobunni

lead me into the right direction....

i have a 98 camaro under 65k - i was driving home and it started knocking and making all this racket under the hood - made it about a block before the house then all the gauges went south and it died :sick: while i was driving it.

i thought it was the electrical (alternator or battery) but it was able to start again for a short bit and the alarm, radio and windows still work.

any ideas?

thanks a bunch ~

crankshaft

i hope seven does not mean 7000.if the engine is reving but you are barely moving,then you appear to have a transmission problem.try checking the fluid level.otherwise you may want to have it checked by the person who did your head gasket.maybe something happened to the linkage during the head gasket job.

alcan

Take it back to the repair shop you just picked it up from and tell them what the problem is.

pisciotta

If anything where talking seconds in the redline thats all and it was an infiniti G35, thanks for your advice.

sheilao3

Could it be my brakes (anti-lock)?

I ask this because the anti-lock brake light was coming on and when I stop at a light it sort of feels like I was rear ended, the car hops alittle.

Next day no more anti-lock light then I started experiencing the hesitation when I accerlated at a stop or red light.

The RPM meter would go up a little (a lot a time or 2 up to 6 or 7 on the meter)
then the car would suddenly take off then the RPM would settle at the 1 or 2 mark.

I am having car towed back in in the a.m. (I am afraid to drive it, almost got hit in the rear a few times trying ot get back home with a car load of kids.)

It almost feels like the brake is stuck, friend told me the brakes have a little lever that may stick if it is gummed up.

I just want to get this fixed COMPLETELY this time, too scarey being a Mom driving kids around and having something go wrong.

Any pointers would be appreciated!

zcruiser

Hey thanks for the advice...the PB Blaster did the trick. I finally got that sucker off. Appreciate it!

alcan

PB Blaster's good stuff. Glad to hear you won.

subarubaby

I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy and a few times when I got out of work I tried to start my car and everything worked but it did'nt start. This only happened when I left the radio on. I remembered about the radio when I tried to start the car and turned it off but I had to wait a couple minutes once to get it to start again. I know this might sound petty but I don't want it to get any worse. Can anyone help?
P.S. It has'nt happend anywhere else just in the parking lot at work.

qbrozen

I'm not sure if it would even help ... but you need to be more descriptive of the problem. Is the engine cranking and just not starting up? Or do you turn the key and nothing happens at all? Is there just a clicking sound? If it is cranking, is it cranking at full speed or is it much slower than usual?

burdawg

If you mean that the engine won't crank but other electrical items work, then the first place I would look is at the battery. It's about 5 years old unless it's been replaced, even then that would be my first point to check. If you have a voltmeter then you can check the resting voltage of the battery (the resting voltage is the level of charge after it's been sitting and not being used/charged) before trying to start the car. If it's not close to 12.6 VDC then it could indicate a weak battery. If you can't do it yourself then a shop can load test the battery for you. Of course it could be many other things also, but that's the first place I would look.

gchaney

I replaced knock sensor at 27,000mi on Millenia98 now light on again at 44,600mi, dealership wants $436.00 to fix,decided just let burn,but cant get inspection on it until get fixed, any other thing I can do ? or am I going have to replace it every 15-20.000mi? Thanks for any help!

torquedoff

Have a 2002 T&C with 63,000 miles. Just had the engine light come on and retrieved the codes. They give a P0700 and a P0740. The van seems to have no issues with transmission slippage, but the 740 code says that the engine is running faster than it should for these speeds, so I think the torque converter clutch lock-up system is bad. What is this and how should I go about this repair? The 700 code says ask the ATC. Is there a way to do this for the home repair guy? :confuse:

torquedoff

You may wish to investigate a little deeper but... the octane is there to keep gas from pre-ignition during the compression cycle. Higher compression engines require higher octane formulations. If you hear the car pinging then you have gone to far.

candie

Hi Mr. Shiftright I am taking your advice and finally having a GM dealership put in the tensioners. I don't think you asked before so no need at all to apologize....

Wanted you to know the good news. I took the dealership that sold me this car to Small Claims Court. Before we got there, I got a call from the dealership offering a settlement in the amount I requested. (About 1/2 of my repairs) Never expect this, but felt it was worth a shot...so now I can do my hopefully LAST tensioner and get my locks fixed and HOPE that's it. Thanks for all of the help. I'll be back but hopefully not with major problems.

Candie

Mr_Shiftright

Well okay...I hope that's the end of your troubles. Let us know how it goes.

sheilao3

I just found out the "sprag" is broken in my 94 Mercury Sable, I just spent $1200.00 for the head gasket and after I picked it up I had acceleration hesitation from a dead stop. How do I decide if it is worth repairing? The car has 45,000 miles and runs good. Book vallue is about $ 3,000.00 to 4,000.00 and I can not afford a car payment (let along the debt I am now accuring on my credit car for the head gasket repair). When do I say "enough" is "enough"?
Could this be in any way related to the previous problem or the work done?

Mr_Shiftright

Oh, you mean a sprag clutch in the transmission? That's not good.

A sprag clutch or one-way clutch will allow something, like a gear, to turn in one direction but not the other. It's like a bicycle, where you can pedal forward but you only spin freely if you pedal backward. So this sprag clutch is used for first gear when you start off in drive---you notice that if you take your foot off the car will kind of coast even though you just started out. But if you put it manually in low gear and do this, the car will slow down abruptly--so no sprag clutch engaging in the latter case.

Worth fixing? Probably, as long as the rest of the car is tip-top. But get a second opinion on the trans work.

baum

Hi
I have a 1990 Acura Legend and my rear passanger window won't roll down. I've looked everywhere (almost) online trying to find out why but all the info. I get is for a 4 door....I have a 2 door.
Does anybody know what could possibly be wrong and how to fix it?
I can hear the motor running but the window won't move.....
Thanks!!!

Mr_Shiftright

Probably broke a plastic grommet that runs in a grooved rail, pushing the window up and down...or broke the arm off the window regulator itself.

masterg

I need to get Distributor Timing/Firing for my Cadillac Deville 1986 4.1L, heres a sample picture http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_engine-pics/Flathead_Sparkplugwiring-49-53- .GIF if someone can get me a pic of this or explain it for my car i would really appreciate it. Hope someone knows it.

Mr_Shiftright

can't see that link.

masterg

try now

Mr_Shiftright

For your 1986 CADILLAC DEVILLE:

FIRING ORDER 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

DISTRIBUTOR ROTATES COUNTER CLOCKWISE

| 2 4 6 8 |
Front of Engine |
| 1 3 5 7 |

---------

jay_dee

Help! Opened the convertible top 2 days ago, Chrysler Sebring JX 1997, using the "power top switch" as always. Tried to close the top, as usual, using the "power top switch". It is not working, as in the top remains in it's normal open position. I can hear the same sounds when I press the switch, but the top doesn't move. I tried, just a little to bring the top up manually, I didn't yank or pull on it. I can lift it a little, but only up out of the open position, the "arms" are still folded and then they just gradually/slowly go back to complelely folded and the top back into it's open position. This cannot be the 1st time this has happened to the number one selling convertible in the country! I'm hoping you can tell me how I can get the top closed, without having to go to the dealership and take out a 2nd mortgage on my house. Bonus (1): I'm in FL. Bonus (2) I have a garage. But I still need to get the top up and closed. Thanks for your anticipated assistance! :confuse: