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Comments
First, if you do not have the nav option, I can't help you. If you do, press the "menu" button. Then scroll to the "adjust time" button. You will then find buttons to pick your time zone and whether you want daylight saving time. Then press "ok" and you will find that NOTHING CHANGES!!!
After you do the same thing about 5 or 6 times, just forget about making the adjustment in the setup menu.
Now press the "info" button and at the top of the next screen, you will see a small button labeled "adjust time."
Press this button and you will find the options to pick the time zone, auto. dst, and auto adjust. Make your selections, press "ok" and you will be back on time.
If this isn't one of the dumbest things I've ever seen, it sure comes close. I would say that this makes the lame brained nav system look almost easy to use. :P :P :P
I am thinking of changing out my cloth seats in a '98' Toyota Avalon for leather seats. Now would I need any additional brackets, bolts etc or would it be an even exchange meaning I can just use the screws and bolts from the cloth seats and just change em out? Thanks!
I have a 2006 Avalon XL. Does anyone know where I can buy the door sill plates that say Avalon on them (like on the touring model? Also, has anyone replaced the factory 6/12 inch door speakers? I have the 6-DISC in dash unit but not the JBL. If so what brand and model did you use and did this improve the sound? Did it also help the vibration/rattle when the base is turned up?
Thanks
KMP
2006 Toyota Avalon XL
1996 Toyota Avalon XL
1972 Oldsmobile 442 Convertible
Proud to be a Avalon owner.
James
Thanks for the reply. I check the motor and it goes up and down manually with a direct contact from the battery. Some how the switch is not working with the wires. The wires have juice to the motor and switch. I tested the switch to see if it works with the other windows and it works fine.
Have a nice day,
James
Hey I'll try that might work.
Thanks,
James
Thanks for any help.
MelBC
I must say that front seat comfort isn't Toyota's long suit. Perhaps their seat designs are well-suited for a statistically shorter and lighter Japanese population, but are they using the same seat designs for a generally taller and heavier American population? There seems to be inadequate leg support. My '97 Camry's seats weren't all that comfortable, but at least they were a bit softer than the Avalon. I didn't really notice a problem on my test drives because shorter drives aren't too bad, but on a longer drive my butt literally goes numb. Also, my 6'2" husband easily finds a comfortable driving position, but I (5'6") sometimes have to fiddle around a lot with all of the position controls to get comfy.
Overall I am pleased with the car, but the seat comfort is my major complaint. Our base model Tacoma's seats are more comfortable.
As it is now every time I stop I have to unlock the doors to prevent my passengers from yanking on the handles when they wont open.
I just need to know the tools and methods to remove surfaces and reassembly without damaging parts.
Thanks!
Thanks
There's no way around it!
however, if you discover that this doesn't solve your problem, i would expect your windshield (if coated with a grimy slippery film) is actually being caused by a leak in the heat exchanger of the coolant/radiator system, i.e. coolant would be getting airborne in the cabin.
It hardly happens at all in the winter, but if the cars sits in the hot summer sun during the day, you will have to clean the insides about once a month, or maybe even oftener if you live in the desert southwest.
I'm thinking this problem may be limited to Toyotas as I have never experienced this with any other car I have ever owned and I live in Sunny South Florida! Possibly this means that Toyota is using some sort of coating on it's vinyl/plastic products that is causing this problem.
Quality control at its best!
I don't think there really is a solution, other than getting rid of all soft touch vinyls in the interiors of vehicles, which I doubt if any consumers will want to give up. Maybe the chemical engineers are working on it.
I am really surprised if you haven't had this occur in South Florida. All it takes is sitting in the sun during a about 9 hours a day, 5 days a week in Wisconsin during the summer. The hotter the weather, the more quickly the deposits occur. Hardly any for about 7-8 months of the year.
There are some automatic climate control designs that are much more subject to windshield fogging/misting than others. Mostly those are of asian origin using a design by NipponDenso or in the US, Denso US.
Basically if your system automatically switches from footwell airflow into dash/footwell or dash only as the cabin temperature rises to your setpoint then you have one of the subject systems. It is only in one of the footwell modes that a portion of the system airflow is routed to the windshield to help prevent fogging.
Another test is to simply switch into defrost/defog/demist mode during cooling operation and see if you get WARM airflow to the windshield.
And don't forget that either source, or both, for that thin film on the windshield will actually accelerate the fogging of the windshield should that surface be at or near the dewpoint.
Bob
when i clean the plastic (yea) in my LX class vehicles, i use water ONLY. when i clean the inside of my windows, i use Windex.
1. Rain-ex works well, however, beware that it will cause your windshield wipers to wear out faster. Considering the cost of Avalon's propietary wipers, this could be a consideration. Inasmuch as this works, RAIN-EX is NOT window cleaner, rather, a window treatment.
2. If you live in a climate with any type of humidity, and you drive with the windows open, the inside of the windshield is going to continue to get a film, of sorts, on the inside. I speak of this from 16 years of life in the Caribbean. Due to how much I HATE cleaning my windows, I NEVER EVER drive with them open. I literally open and close as fast as possible. This may very well be the film you are describing, which believe me, has NOTHING TO DO with gases from vinyl and leather in the car. I have proven this to myself, over and over again, where each time I decide to "save gas" by opening the windows, they get fogged up in three days, to the point where I can't see out of them at night.
3. It is not necessary to use ammonia-free cleaners, unless you have aftermarket window tinting. If you do, however, and you use windex ONCE, you can ruin your tint, as it WILL turn indigo blue.
4. I never spray any products inside my car--always on the toweling material, and then wipe. If you get vinyl products on the glass, you will be cleaning glass a while. If you get ammonia or alcohol on your vinyl, it will dry.
5. The very best vinyl product is Vinylex by Lexol--available at Pep Boys, or online at Bavarian Autosport.
6. I can't imagine putting something as cheap and tacky on my $44K (no, that is not a typo) Avalon as a dash mat. If you have all windows tinted--yes, ALL, with the darkest legal tint in your state, NEVER leave the car without the back shade up, the sunroof shade closed, and a reflective window shade in the windshield, you will have no heat problems. My cars are not garaged, stay in full tropical sun all day long, and I have no problems with heat, or drying leather or vinyl.
7. Leather seats, as nice as they are, can be a lot of work to keep up, unless you don't mind dried, stained leather. Again, Lexol products are superior to cheaper ones. If you live with either extreme heat or cold (not many don't), then I recommend cleaning and conditioning every 6-8 weeks. Remember, YOU CANNOT RESTORE MOISTURE TO VINYL OR LEATHER, only make it look better. It is like hair; once it's damaged, there is only so much you can do--preventing drying is the best defense.
8. While I'm typing--if you want your paint to look it's best, avoid "one step" products. Effective paint care requires three, yes three, steps: Clean, Glaze, and Wax. I always do two coats of the last two, and this means five, yes, five, coats on the car (in my case every three months). If you take the time to do this, your car will look new for as long as you own it, literally.
All just my opinion, however, after years of trial and error experience, and always detailing my own cars, or, hiring people to work with me under my very direct supervision.
Regards, to all.
VR
Bob
1. In Puerto Rico, taxes on vehicles that have an MSRP of about $25K or more, are about 30%; I have a 2006 Blizzard White Limited, no XMS, no Nav, No autostart, No wind deflectors, No spoiler, and everything else you list above, otherwise. If the vehicle's base MSRP is higher than about 60%, then, in some cases, the tax can reach 100%. A new Mercedes S Class, for example, prices out at about $140K.
2. Whatever the climate or humidity, I certainly vote for the climate effect, as opposed to any strange gases that are fogging our windows. My advice, based upon comments here, is that we all test combinations of open and closed windows, and do whatever works best. In my case, for example, if I literally only open my windows to talk to security guards at gated communities I visit, I can go two months without having to clean the inside of my windshield. If leather and vinyl cleaners and protectants give off gas, then they certainly don't fog your windows. I use so much of this stuff that my friends make fun of me when they get in my car, and I've never had gassed windows from use of these products.
3. My apologies for the misunderstanding about Rain-ex. I wasn't aware that they made a window cleaner. I'm sure it's very good. I still wouldnt' use the windshiled protect on my car, for reasons previously mentioned.
4. Car washing tip: I use my Ortho garden sprayer more for my car than anything else. No bucket needed; simply pour a couple tablespoons of car washing liquid in the container, and set as you wish. Spray works to rinse, and also spray product on the car.
5. Another note: you should NEVER, EVER, EVER--even if you are going to wax your car--use any type of dishwashing detergent on your paint.
6. I have proven to myself that, even car washing products that claim to "not strip wax" can, if you use them in a high concentration. If your car is very dirty, DO NOT use a lot of cleaner, rather, wash the car two, or even three, times, as necessary.
7. NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, use any "no touch" alloy wheel cleaning products on your alloy wheels. What do you think is strong enough to remove brake dust without rubbing--ACID, of course! Even when used as directed, over time, you will remove the clearcoat on the wheels. I use the same product for wheels as my paint, along with a stiff wheel brush, and they look as good as the day I bought the car. I also recommend that, if your dealer washes your car as part of service, CLEARLY STATE that they are not to use such products on your wheels. I once had the wheels of a new BMW convertible ruined BY THE DEALER when they did this to my car. They obviously left whatever they were using far too long, and masked this with silicone spray. It wasn't until one week later, when I washed the car myself, that I realized my wheels had NO LAQUER. They refused to respond, and I had to have them clear-coated at a body shop to hide the damage!
Regards, to all!
Bob
Bob
Bob
Bob
down here in Texas, see them all the time - mostly courtesy of an outrageous 18/19" wheel and tire packages (can't think of a better way to screw up a perfectly good car) at 6-8 grand!
and these would be distributor installed, down here Gulf States Toyota who has a tendency to do such things!
I really like the Pine exterior color but it only comes with the blonde wood, I think. I am wondering if this might change for the 2008's??
Right now I have a 2001 XL because I like cloth seats and it has the dark wood. I guess it's impossible to get that in a 2007....and probably for a 2008?
My '03 XL didn't have wood trim at all, was yours aftermarket?
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