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Toyota Avalon Steering Questions
At 115k miles replaced at Kirkwood Mo dealer. At 173K miles replaced again while traveling at Concord, NC dealer. Anyone had this type problem with Avalon? Also, repaired leak in trans (front pump seal). Of course the second was on the road and the time was over a year so no warranty. Paid $952 first time and $767 second time.
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2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
115K seems early for a leak, 60K seems way early. If I had one go at 60K, and I wanted to keep the car a while but not a decade, I would maybe think about just keeping it topped up.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks. I knew I was going to have to take the rear seat out as it says in the service manual, I just thought there would be an easier way. Oh well. I can do it like you say and and the manual. What a pain. How often do you change yours??? Every 30K???
Any progression on reducing the "light and fuzzzy" steering yet from your car??? Putting on the Energy Suspension bushing this month. Will let you know my opinion. Thanks again for the advice. I really did not want to have to go back to the tank, but I knew I should.
A.Fisch
Steering! I am excited about what I've learned thus far. My buddy(the racing guy) is going to see how easy/tough this is, from his guys....so, it may be a little while. But, I earmarked this one as a "winter" project. It is an adjustment to flow rate, servo's, torsion bars, and relief valves....all GREEK to me, but he says he'll find out! Excellent!
I consider you the "father" of the Avalon Maintenance section. See post above. Not sure. A couple of things going on here. Fan speed only one, not multiple. Believe it is the switch itself. Not super familiar with the Auto Climate Controls, nor the older ones. Do not think it is a engine leak.
I think the "Light and fuzzy" steering can be fixed. I am almost convinced part of the problem may be the same soft bushing syndrome, and make it numb. Perhaps starting there, hoping an aftermarket company can come up with better bushing might eliminate some of the vagueness.
abfisch
I'd appreciate anyone's response. Thanks.
What PARTS are they selling you??
It is most likely you NEED the rack. I just did mine at 150k. $275 for the part and put it in myself. (NOTE: You will also need to realign the steering wheel. This requires an airbag reset tool.) Also, you WILL need an alignment afterwards.
I wouldn't let a bad rack "steer" you away from Toyo... I have logged over 600k miles on three Toyo's. Even at 250k, I would suggest "I drive my car..." when going out with friends, 'cause I knew we would get there- and BACK! -nomad56-
As for the cost, others who post here are more familiar with that...but for $1900. the dealer throws in a week in Cancun for you and your family while he repairs it. Right? Toyota dealers are much more of a problem than the cars.... Enjoy the Av. Find another dealer. And post the final solution and cost here, if you can, so others will be aware of what the choices are.
As for the type of driving the car has been exposed to, there was little regular city driving. For the most part, it simply was driven a relatively short distance to work and back in fairly small towns that we've lived in. I did run through the Chicago area quite a few times to and from O'Hare, and granted, that can't be the best thing for any car.
Thanks for the tip on the NHTSA, I'm going there next. I'll follow your suggestions, get it repaired at a reasonable cost, and return to refining our strategy for our next vehicle that we've been looking for. We have an Odyssey van for our young family of six, but are strongly considering a second vehicle that can handle the whole bunch. I don't want another van, and I struggle with the poor mileage of the large SUVs and the lack of cargo space in the midsize SUVs -- not to mention the sticker shock from several of the options on the market. I've never had car payments, and I don't intend to start now.
I think the Highlander and the 4Runner are too small and narrow, and the Sequoia is too large, pricey and poor mileage. The Land Cruiser and LX470 are nice, but probably a little more steepeep than I want to get into with our young family. We've taken a long look at the MDX and Pilot, and there's a lot to offer -- with Pilot being the most reasonable price wise. The only shortcoming is the lack of cargo space.
I'd welcome any opinions about the best options in today's market for us. I'd like to make a decision in the next month or so.
Again, thanks for all the terrific feedback.
danbeth-This may be beyond me. I did NOT see a "blower motor linear controller". This sounds like a "variable" resistor to change the fan speeds beyond the FOUR settings you can choose manually. What I do know is-Toyo has an A/C "amplifier" which is perhaps "SYMANTECS", for a part that offers the same necessary variations in resistance. This piece is below the A/C control panel, perhaps behind the ashetray in the center console, according to the Svc manual. Probably something you can grab a U-Pick-The-Parts yard for a few bucks???? That's the best I can do. I haven't had to do any real work on my A/C, but let me know, I'll try to help. -nomad56-
Thanks!
Just to qualify this as a maintenance post, I'm still refining my strategy for repairing the rack and power steering on my 97 Avalon. I first want to validate the dealer's diagnosis, and then find a reliable party to do the repairs at a reasonable cost. In the meantime, I'm closely monitoring my fluid levels!
Power steering replacement. Just want to make sure I am clear on this. Automatic Tranmission Synthetic fluid for the power steering rack??? Not brake fluid???? Just want to make sure.
Winter note:
For those of you who find the sprayers on the Avalon (00-present) not excellent, I discovered a little trick albeit time consuming. Notice the new Camry has the same sprayers ONLY now, the spray comes out in a fine mist, instead of two streams on each side. You can paint the new black ones or leave them black or get the same color and replace the old ones. It involves taking down the interior hood insulation. If you are not good with plastic, you will bust some of the clips that attach the interior insultaion but they are easy to replace. The nossles are a little tricky to get out but when compressed below (used a strong thin cord) they pop out. The thin (car wash) type of spray, covers much more of the front window instead of the stream, don't not scratch the window as much because everything is coating with fluid, and you use about 1/2 as much fluid. This is for those that constantly go through winter/salt/spray/dirt highway type driving. I found this very worthwhile, although initially painful. OEM look. You would not be able to tell as the only difference is the aperture hole where the spray comes out. Go the spray from www.paintscratch.com
"Feed the forum" with your good ideas.
abfisch
Thanks.
abfisch
If discount offered, advise I go with dealer or find an independent?
My mechanic (non-dealer w/ 25 yrs experience on Toyotas) called around and found out this is one of the few American made parts on the Avalons assembled in the US. The part was changed on the 2000 model year cars and newer.
The seals are leaking from the inside of the rack into the "rubber boot" in the middle of the rack. When you turn the wheel, the saturated boot (full of fluid) squirts out of the side. In his words, it should never happen.
At 63K (and owning 3 Toyotas) TMC reimbursed me for the full repair under "goodwill". Colleagues at work w/ Avy's 95 and 96 model yrs checked after my problem and had the same leak.
Dealers in the Houston area were offering lifetime warranted rebuilt replacements at approx $1000 fully installed. It took 4 trips back to the dealer to get it right, so be patient. No problems since.
Sorry to reply so late, but I did not log on for awhile.
Quote is $1,200 to replace, plus all new tires. My feeling is he thinks he has a fish.
With no noticeable steering problem, could he be pulling my leg? Also I priced a replacement part on the web at around $300.
I think I should run from this dealer. Any help since I am a novice.
also the temp guage is a tiny bit above the halfway mark. Coolant and themostat were changed and a reputable garage in town assures me that it should be fine. Could the gauge be faulty or could there be something else.
MikeS.
Timing Belt - An 9 year old timing belt is a liability. Replace it.
Drive Belts - If they are original, they are probably wearing out. Replace them.
Cover Gaskets - If they leak, they need to be replaced (maybe just tighten the bolts a little and see if that helps first.) If they don't leak, leave them alone.
Seals, I am not familiar with, need someone else to answer that one.
The 60k maintenance will change a lot of fluids, etc., and you may need it. How often do you change all fluids in the past? Read the owners manual about this, then decide. The price sounds high at $700. Check around for a better deal.
Hope this helps, others may offer comments as well......
My 96 has 70K miles. Still has the OE front brakes with lots of lining left. All of the hoses and belts look and feel okay. Can't see the timing belt. Have not changed plugs yet.
Car runs fine, but will change everything, including the front brakes, before the car goes to college in the fall.
Fluid changes around here are about $110 for transmission (flush), $90 for radiator flush, and $70 for brake fluid flush. Brakes run from $200 to $450. By the time I renew everything the cost will be close to $2000 (tires and shocks too). That's a lot to spend on a ten year old car that isn't worth much more than the renew costs, but is still a lot less than a new car.
"a defect in the steering wheel column that could result in a loss of control of the vehicle, the company and U.S. safety regulators said on Monday. "
Outer CV joint, part of the axle. Take it in immediately before you get stranded.
abfisch
Boy, I'm not sure what the deal is w/CV joints & boots -- that's where I've had problems with my '96 Camry, and my Ford before that! I'm guessing that these are not parts that are meant to last a long time.
Hey, thanks again!
All FWD cars have these issues when high mileage is attained. RWD cars to a lesser extent. Not a big deal.
abfisch
i have a 96 toyota avalon. there is few problem with the car i feel that the stearing is hard to make turn. other hand its look like the stearing pump is leaking on the bottom not sure if its working but the stearing fluid is in same lavel. i also have little vibration on the stearing ... is there anyproblem thats i need to fix ...
i have about 1,16,000 mil on the car so please tell me what i should do for the hard and vibration of the stearing thanks :confuse: :mad:
The deal is quoting me $1200 w. tax included needs rack replaced and new alignment + 14% ontario tax!
Also said something about engine oil dripping out of valve cover gasket? DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE HECK DOES THIS MEAN!!!! ?
Any help appreicated :confuse: