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I am going to have them check it when I go in for my new rack this week. I road on a gravel road this weekend for the first time, got the infamous rack rattle. 28K miles
Bulbs were never burnt out, just bad sensors or relays. Yesterday, I noticed that the brake/turn light was out. I had to buy a new bulb, but when I got home to fix, there wasn't an issue, but replaced anyway.
If under warranty (like mine), return to dealer.
it's been working for 3 months now.
seemes easier then taking the car to the dealer but if that happens again i plobably will
I'm having the same issue on my 2003 at the same miles. All electronics go dead except engine. I just wanted to know if you found a fix for the problem. I'm not sure where to start looking.
Redlemon
All of the functions you mentioned are controlled by the
BCM (body control module), it might be going bad, mine
('05) acts up once in awhile too. Trunk pops open, radio
resets to an AM oldies station, door lock pop up and down.
acts like it's friggin Christine!
I have the exactly same problem as yours (same car, 95k). I just post a message for help. Did you get your car fixed?
Laura
I have the identical problem (already swapped the computer (ECM) with no success). Have you gotten a response to your post? Thanks much in advance for any help on this.
Dave
I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu.
The turn signal keeps tapping,
even when the signal is off.
The light doesn't light, only the noise.
Any Help.
Thanks John
Fortunately I talked to some friends at church, and was able to talk to someone at my church who is an independent mechanic. I would put his name and contact info here, but I think that might be considered advertising. He was very aware of this kind of pressure tactic at garages to get the "highest quote of the day," something he hated hearing when he worked for a larger garage.
He told me that the problem on my dash could be electrical and that the item flashing pertained to oil pressure, not an oil leak. He could not find anything wrong with my car to suggest an oil leak, but did something inexpensive which seems to have solved the problem. He put in a new "oil pressure sender" as he described it. On the empty box the item came in, I can read the name, "Engine Controls/ignition,electrical,emissions,fuel." The part costs about $12 and is less than one hour of labor to install. My car has not had any more problems and sits outside at airport parking outside for days on end in Minnesota, so it is doing just fine, as far as I am concerned. I had the service done about a month and a half ago. I think going to a well educated independent mechanic with morals is the best way to handle this problem. Prayer can help too!
With testing, parts and install, cost came to $350
Has anyone had this problem. HELP!!!
If it is a new body style 05, I don't know if it is the same or not.
Autozone or Pep boys, etc. would probably install it free if you buy it there.
Also I fixed my A\C controller as described in other blogs by cleaning the contacts and using the #2 lead pencil, and that is working great. (I live in So FL, where we are now in the 90's)
Another issue I had was gas gauge not working correctly. I let the car run out of gas completely. This was something I remembered from the early 70's when I worked at a dealer while going to school. Since then (over two years) I have not had a problem.
I had a stalling problem, and noticed that the top of the fuel pressure regulator appeared discolored. I replaced that and the car has not stalled since.
I hope this helps with your issues. All these can be done with a little mechanical skill, but you will have to take your time and get the right tools, like the trim removal tool. Do the A\C and the ignition switch at the same time, so you only have the dash apart once.
The car has 108K + and now that I fixed those issues, it is a great ride. If you have the brake issue too, replace rotors and pads with aftermarket, and the problem sould go away. Use a good quality brand.
My left turn signal just started showing a fast flash indicating a burned out bulb, which I replaced...The bulb lights up but does not blink when I try the left hand turn signal...Tried reversing the right hand bulb with the left hand side...the right hand side continues to work while the left although is lit doe's not blink...
Hopefully some-one can be of some assistance with what might be the issue and solution...thanks in advance...
Simon
:confuse:
The heat of the bulbs burns some of it off, but after I shut everything off it all clouds up again. Think this will cause any problem with (more) corrosion of the electrical contacts and connectors?
These lens covers are pretty sensitive to heat, impact, etc., so it wouldn't take too much to distort, crack, bend them etc.