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I have heard conflicting opinions on how often I should have an oil change done. The service manager suggested every 12000kms, but I feel that is far too high.
Thoughts?
The one year mark is not okay according to the dealer, Rather, it's when the car tells you the oil change is due.
Who loses by you getting an early oil change? You lose cash/time, the dealer makes extra money and BMW is none-the-wiser of the dealer's duplicity. Who loses if you don't get the extra-undeeded oil change? The dealer loses extra money.
BMW has a multi-billion dollar product-line to protect. Do you think they'd advise you to avoid oil changes if they were really necessary? The e46 came out in 1998 and with it came BMW's engine system that monitors your oil and pushes you to get a change at appropriate times. 9 years later have you ever met an e46 owner/former-owner who had engine problems attributed to following BMW's oil change schedule? no, you haven't. BMW might know a thing or two...they did design the car and they've got about a decade of experience following the once-a-year oil change schedule.
But... since I lease it may end up to be someone else's problem.
gas
insurance
tires
payments
That's it. You should not have a single dollar of maintenance expenses on a leased BMW. Follow the manufacturer. The dealer is a liar and he is looking to make money off you.
Not sure I follow you, if the dealer is advising me NOT to have the oil change till the car "tells you" to.
brianaudi, "BMW 3-Series Oil Questions" #155, 28 Aug 2007 10:25 am
Further to the oil change issue - Castrol Syntec Racing is reccomended.
Though I have been told Mobil One is the way to go also. Opinions?
BMW Synthetic 5W-30
German made Castrol Syntec 0W-30
Mobil 1 0W-40
I have heard (but not yet confirmed) that Valvoline now has a synthetic oil that has been BMW-LL01 approved. In addition, I have yet to see any UOAs showing that it is up the task and I personally won't be using any cars of mine as test mules.
Best Regards,
Shipo
http://www.dasautosport.com/khxc/ccp0-prodshow/Lubro2041.html
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
The guys at the dealership suggested Castrol Syntec. How many bottles would likely be needed for a full change?
Best Regards,
Shipo
You seem to speak with authority on many issues. I'd be like to use Mobil 1 0W-40 as its a few bucks cheaper per quart than BMW's branded 5W-30 oil and widely available but where did you learn it was an acceptable substitute? Also as its no where in my owners manual, aside from carefully measuring what comes out or asking the service department at my local dealer how can I find out how much oil to put in my 2007 328xi.
Thanks,
Idoc
I'm not Shipo, but I believe that I can provide the answer. Your car requires an oil that meets BMW's Longlife 01 specs. There are three readily available oils that meet this standard: BMW 5W-30, Castrol Syntec 0W-30, and Mobil 1 0W-40.
how can I find out how much oil to put in my 2007 328xi.
My understanding is that the sump capacity is 6.9 quarts; most people just put 7 quarts in.
Thank you, but does anyone have a reference to some source document from which this list comes?
Idoc
A few other points:
- There are many other oils around the world that meet the spec, oils that may even be better than any of the above (although by how much, if at all, is questionable).
- Both of my BMWs took exactly 7 quarts to bring the oil level up to the top hash mark.
- BMW is one of the few manufacturers in the world that recommends an oil filter change for every oil change. New OEM filters are available via the internet and from your local dealer. Don't mess with Fram and other wannabe filters.
- I'm surprised that your manual doesn't specify how much oil, both of the manuals for my cars listed 6.9 quarts in the "Capacities" section.
Let us know how you make out. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Additionally, as you know the E90's have no dipstick. The capacities section of my owners manual lists only gasoline and windshield wiper solution! The oil sensor only provides a reading after several miles of driving (the manual says 10Km) so without clear documentation one has to go on faith that 7 quarts is correct for a 2007 328xi. The guy behind the parts counter at my local BMW dealer said 8 quarts was required for an 328xi but only 7 quarts for an 328i. Seems unlikely. Perhaps a call to the service department will clear up the mystery.
Idoc
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-40.aspx
Idoc
I would love it if someone could give me some honest recommendations regarding oil changes! I purchased a 2007 328i in September and I'm quickly approaching the 5k mile mark. I've had no problems to date and I haven't seen any signs of oil loss - at least, according to the digital readout on the OBC! I typically drive a 60/40 mix of around town/highway driving and average about 20k miles/year. I intend to keep this car for at least 5 years.
My dad always helped me change the oil of my previous cars at 3k intervals and acknowledged that it was an excessive, but inexpensive way to maintain a car. I've heard oil changes at the BMW dealership can cost about $100 so I'd rather not change the oil as often, but I'm also weary of waiting until 15k based on what my dad always said. I realize his school of thought might not be right in this case.
I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on whether I should change the oil on my car at 5k or if I really can wait until 15k this first time around. It's a big deal for me to own this car, I'm proud of it, and I want to take care of it.
And I'd just like to say, it's a pleasure to be in the company of people who share in the enjoyment of this amazing piece of machinery! Thanks in advance for your help.
Best-
Don
Think about it this way:
- Current oil technology (especially synthetic oil) is far superior to the oil sold just a decade ago.
- The current crop of BMW engines are VERY clean burning engines. The cleaner the engine, the fewer contaminates that the oil will be called upon to hold in suspension.
- BMW typically incorporates an oil capacity that is at least 50% larger than that of similar sized (or similar output) engines from other manufacturers. More oil means that it circulates through the engine less often and that means that it gets exhausted at a slower rate.
With the above in mind, there is only one definitive way to PROVE to your father and yourself that your oil is good to go for any given number of miles, and that is by having a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) preformed. In your case, I'd probably wait until about the 7,500 mile mark, take a sample and send it into Blackstone Labs. Regardless of what they say (i.e. "Change it now", or "Wait until 15,000 miles"), you'll have scientific proof of how long your oil will last. With that kind of data in hand, ain't nobody can say nuthin' to you about "change it early and change it often" or "wait until the Oil Life Monitor (OLM) says it's time for a change".
FWIW, you might want to consider having it tested roughly once per year so that you can build a trend history and so that you can see how your engine is performing once it is fully broken in.
Best Regards,
Shipo
P.S.
If you do get a UOA run on your oil, please be sure to post the results.
Can you get some from the oil filler cap? I am skeptical!
Regards,
OW
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thanks.
Regards,
OW
Don't take this so personally but if one "knows" something to be a fact then why not provide the source document? It simply adds credibility and if nothing else enhances your image as "trustworthy and knowledgeable".
Idoc
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=6- - 006933
SAE 0W–30:
Castrol SYNTEC 0W–30 European Formula is engineered to meet the Mercedes Benz 229.5 specification. The 0W–30 viscosity grade is ideal for winter conditions where low temperature pumpability is required. A unique, low–temperature formulation provides exceptional pumpability in cold weather and allows for unaided engine starts down to –40ºF. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL–01; GM–LLA–025, GM–LL–B–025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF–3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Regards,
OW
Best Regards,
Shipo
I did ask them your question. I just follow what is required. To me it was a waste of time.
Regards,
OW
Thanks.
Idoc
Best Regards,
Shipo
Then there's the M54 motor in my wife's X3 2.5 that totally depletes the additive pack in less than 9000 miles... :mad:
Why does the oil take a beating in the turbo engine over the NA one? Does the engine oil lube the turbo bearings and reduce oil integrity faster?
Regards,
OW
Yes and no. Yes, the engine oil does lube the turbo bearings, however, unless the there is a design flaw (like no water cooled turbine bearings, which should be on all new turbocharged cars these days) there's no reason why the oil shouldn't last as long as it does on non-turbocharged cars.
I'm going to keep a close eye on the 335i oil thing because something just doesn't sound right.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Other than looking at UOA reports on BITOG, what will you be doing to keep a close eye on it? I ask because I have the same engine as the 335i, and I'd like to do the same.
Well, BMW DID finally get around to fitting oil coolers to all N54s, but the problem is more than simply high oil temperatures.
Why does the oil take a beating in the turbo engine over the NA one? Does the engine oil lube the turbo bearings and reduce oil integrity faster?
The oil does see higher temperatures in a turbocharged engine, and it is largely due to the fact that the sump oil also lubricates/cools the turbo bearings. I find it interesting that Subaru has now issued a TSB stating that all of their turbocharged cars must be maintained according to their "Severe Service" maintenance requirements. That means a 3800 mile OCI- though I'll note that Subaru does not mandate the use of synthetic oil. That said, I don't believe that it is the turbo so much as the fact that the N54 also features direct injection. The naturally aspirated DI V8 in the RS4 and the Mazdaspeed DISI 2.3 are also proving to be quite hard on their oil. If -as some UOAs are indicating- the N54 can thoroughly trash its oil in less than 5000 miles, it means that 335i/535i owners who change their oil at the @15000 mile OCI will probably be the proud owners of twin turbo boat anchors before their cars reach 100000 miles.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Holy Moley! What's up with that? Can the owners collect if they opt for extended coverage? I know some scoff at the extended maintenance vs. do-it-yourself but in these cases, hopefully, there can be remuneration.
I would strongly recommend testing the oil at regular intervals for sure AND changing it every 5-7K miles for that engine just to stay sane!
The sad thing is you need to go through hoops to check your oil life through the sampling process Shipo encourages if you REALLY want to know what's happening in your engine. A stinkin' $15 dip stick would have made the task a cinch.
Regards,
OW
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I think you are right. The question is whether a rash of grenading older engines will have any impact on new/CPO sales. I guess we'll see...
On the other hand, watching BMW get rid of spare tires, dipsticks, oil coolers, and oil temp indicators tells me a lot as well.
Yes, that about says it all...
Regards,
OW