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Chevy Express/GMC Savana Starting/Stalling Problems

2

Comments

  • dgastonedgastone Posts: 1
    6.5TD-215K ml. For about last 16mos dash security light comes on intermitantly Just recently seems to come on more often and stays on longer. Sometimes, for better part of the day. So far, no starting or drivability problems. But it has me looking over my shoulder waiting for the shoe to fall. After reading a few elated posts, I think my 1st move is to get a new ignition key. Any other suggestions appreciated. FYI-just replaced crank shaft pulley @209K. If you haven't replaced yours, do it before the clanking starts. $125.00 cheap insurance.
  • chevy1500sccachevy1500scca Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    I think it may be a fuel filter problem will replace this weekend, but if you shoot carb cleaner in air intake it starts and keeps running, but will not start without a shot, sometimes will start if you turn off and back on immediately.

    Hoping it is not the fuel filter, car seems to run OK once it has started.

    Any advise
  • donzi428donzi428 Posts: 5
    took the 1996 express van back to the mechanic and we put the computer that reads codes on it. It only said egr as a code.
    This van starts when cold but not on the first crank, maybe the second or third and only if the engine is cold. When driven it runs great no problems at all ....goes down the road very good even . But if I stop to shop and come back out it will not start till its cold again , then it will start everytime (cold).
    He checked alot of things and said the fuel pump relay is not being activated when the key is turned on. The fuel pump runs thou. This van has had so many new parts added to it I am sick of throwing money at it and its not the problem.
    What does anybody think of the fuel pressure regulator leaking ? like the vacumn hose attached maybe has a leaky diaphram ? or the fuel injector leaking ?

    I need serious help with this so any and all thoughts are asked for ! Thanks in advance.... :)
  • van3500van3500 Posts: 9
    The ERG is for the exhaust gas recirculation. There are a couple of sensors that can be monitored. The EGR valve may be hanging up. I read through some of the diagnostic information I have and the engine temperature sensor works with the EGR and O2 sensors.

    When the van does start does it idle down nice or do you have to play with the throttle to keep it running?

    I have OBDII software from Autotap. It came with a trouble shooting guide and information on the sensors. They provided a link to a web site that may be able to help.

    CarleySoftware.com

    There may be a fee for their service I do not know.

    Good luck!
  • donzi428donzi428 Posts: 5
    van3500 thanks tons for even replying with some great info, to answer your question ,when running the van idles down nicely and does run funny. I never have to play with the throttle.

    It starts after several cranks when cold but will not start when hot till it cools off for about an hour, then starts on the second or third key turn.

    What do you think about something like vapor lock ?
    or even internal fuel leak ?

    Hasn't anybody had this happen and figured it out yet ... :confuse:
  • cfd428cfd428 Posts: 9
    2000 express 1500....... the other day smoke came from my better halfs fan switch got a switch put it in soon as it was turned on started to smoke shut it right off ..... so since i had also picked up a blower resister after she told me that the fan didnt work on HI and screwed up sometimes at other speed settings thats common of a bad resistor put it in problem solved for 2 days any way today smoke again from the switch anyone have any info i will start looking for bad connections at the blower motor and so on thanks
  • scjh_1scjh_1 Posts: 2
    Hello all. I am new but have also suffered with a "different running" 99 Savana 5.7L Vortex conversion Van. It was purchased as a project van because it would run sometimes and sometimes not. It turned out to be the fuel pump, or so I thought. It has 180K on it and the pump was replaced once in that time. I have what most may call an "extensive" background in anything that runs. Past experiences have taught me that the only good fuel pump is from the OEM. So i replaced it and was ok, or so I thought. Van would run good and then not restart when cut off and restarted. I had voltage and no pump pressure. After unsuccessfully trying to find issue i sent it to local dealer. Here comes the punch line. They replaced the wiring connector down at the front of the fuel tank belly pan. WHY? Because in my diagnostic steps I found out to get the van to restart I needed to unplug that connector and plug it back in and the vn would crank. The dealer found that the connector was heated up in one spot and melted. The wire in that area would loose contact when it got hot and top the pump from running. haven't had THAT problem since the connector was replaced.
  • scjh_1scjh_1 Posts: 2
    I see the last entry was a while ago but maybe I can help someone who is searching this thread.

    I took a trip with my van after replacing radiator, ECM fuel pump and tuning it up. It ran fine on the trip but once home i seemed to get rough and have a miss. Based on past history with the 5.7L Vortex I went after the intake gaskets. Found out they were already replaced. Problem seemed to still be there. Gave up and took it to the dealer and they gave me heart failure with their "quote". I did replace the crank sensor.( If this is done and the bushing in the timing cover comes out with the bolt try gluing it back in there with silicone. Worked for me).

    Fast forward a year and I find out part of my problem. Had both Cats removed for"inspection" and was surprised when there was not one ounce of catalyst in either one. Muffler appears good and van does have great power. I can only guess when the Cats failed they were plugging up the exhaust and causing the van to chug and die out. Could be the reason for the noise in the exhaust.

    hope this helps somebody save their nerves.
  • donzi428donzi428 Posts: 5
    I will LOVE you for a long time( I can say that I am a woman) if you just figured out what is wrong with my 96 Chevy Express van with the vortec 350 (5.7 l) I have had the same issue and have replaced so many parts its not even remotely funny. My van will start cold but will never restart if its hot. I have had it to 4! count them 4 mechnics now and no one can figure it out but say replace this and replace that. We replace parts and it still wont start when its hot. Otherwise the van runs awesome and looks awesome but wont restart if its hot. Wait an hour and a half and then it will restart.
    I hope this wasnt a expensive part as it will be the very next thing that I replace.
    Oh , mine will start right away if you take off the air filter and box and spray carb cleaner into it for 3 seconds then put it back together and it starts ever time.

    I am so tired of this problem, I hope this is the part it needs to fix it , THANK you scjh 1 !!!! I will let you know ! ;)
  • sphere1sphere1 Posts: 1
    03 savana , new to me for 5 mos. Replaced AC condenser coil ( it was MIA from schlock wreck repair and resell lot) belt on Comp. Idler at comp. recharged the AC and held! All set right? Nope..still need upper and lower fan shroud to use AC below about 40 MPH for air flow to keep the HI pressure side low enough to not hurt the system I was told. Shopping for them now ( about 106 from dealer).

    But the rub is now, my fan (on high) will run fine for a few mins, then seem to fade out, then back OK again...I tried the manly fix or smackin the dash..no joy. Fiddlin with the knob from MAX to AC ,no real diff. Going from HI to next down and BACK does seem to kicjk it back up again in less time then NOT fiddling with it.

    I think I see the resister on the blower housing, and checked the plug, all loks peachy keen and probably new being as it was a wreck.

    I DO have a vacuume leak somewhere, gotta pull the file cabinet and get the dog house out to search, can't hear it fron under the hood..maybe that is dinking with the system?

    Help?
    Thanks.
    Duane
  • awcawc Posts: 1
    Hello everyone! I'm new here so I hope that I will post this correctly. Looking for anyone who has some input because I'm about ready to pull my hair out......I have a 2003 Express with 4.8L V8 and I have no spark, this is what i've done so far.

    Replaced Plugs and wires
    Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor

    Can anyone suggest where the next step is??
    The issue I have is getting it anywhere to get a code reader on it but thought I'd try to rule out some of the starting points etc........
    I'm going crazy but any info would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 2000 Express conversion van 5.7 engine, It would start and
    run for 10 to 30 seconds and die, it would start right back and drive ok until I stopped for over 10 minutes and it would do it all over again, start and die, start and drive ok. No codes on OBD2 scanner and security light off.
    After checking everything trying to find the problem. I removed passlock module.
    and scanner read P1626 Theft Deterrant System Fuel Enable Circuit. With passlock module removed it would start and die as before. Let it set overnight and tried again next day. Still with module removed started and died 3 times. Connected module and no more problems. It runs great and has not died again. Passlock module is located under dash, right side of steering column, just above
    gas pedal cable and back towards steering wheel, It is sort of hide,
    I also found in a manual, if a magnet is placed near passlock sensor it will cause vehicle control module to lockout mode and turn on security light, My light did not
    stay on. The pickup sensor is just below key lock cylinder very close to the key entrance. My problem all started with a spare key with a magnetic tag on the same key ring. This van does not have alarm system, horn blowning and head lights flashing, Just the key passlock system.
  • I have read through all of the messages on this forum that relate and have foundsome useful ideas. I don't want to throw money to the wind and frankly can't afford to! My 98 Savana 5.7 has had the security light on solid for a few months my wife tells me...I recently returned from a deployment and after driving the van for a few days I parked it in the driveway last week and now it wont restart. It cranks and attempts to start but will not stay running. It has fuel pressure at the fuel rail and if I spray ether in the air cleaner it will stay running until I stop. It obvisously has spark as well. I dont know where to go from here....should I replace the ignition switch as some have suggested? I honestly don't know if the passlock is the issue as the light has been on for so long and it just now won't start. Or do I begin with a crank sensor...but it has spark? Help please as we are a large family with this as our only vehicle that can take us all. Thanks in advance
  • GMC, Savana G3500 (1-ton) Van
    5.7 votec
    100,000 miles

    My Van doesn't start after heavy rain & wind. It turns over but the engine stops abruptly almost as if the engine is ceasing making a weird sound. It has ruien 2-starters. The van usually starts after a couple of days

    Thigs I have tried .... New Starter.... dry Gas ... Check for spark, ok .... replaced the Distributer cap & rotar a year ago .. 2-new fuel pumps 1 1/2 yrs ago

    This Problem has been on & off for two yrs

    Would Spark plug wires have anything to do with this?
  • I dont claim to be the most knowledgeable person when it comes to cars.. But im 100percent certain that these vehicles have issues with fuel pumps constantly dying.. and i mean replacing them every 15-20k miles.. Proven fact.
  • So we own a couple 2007 GMC savana vans and they would not start when hot. If I let it cool for about 30 min. it would fire right up. I had tons of morons try to tell me what was wrong with these vans. All kinds of electrical issues etc. My mechanic finally figured it out. Its the STARTER. To make sure you are having the same problem as I was, get under the van (when it is hot and wont start). Locate the starter and spray it with a hose for about two minutes. This cools the starter and it should fire right up. Be careful not to spray anything else. It is never good to spray cold water on hot car parts. The problem is simple. The starter housing expands when it is hot and magnets inside cannot make contact. Therefor, the starter wont turn until it cools and contracts. Yes magnets. Not like a typical brush in an electric motor. These are a bit different. Whatever you do, DO NOT HIT THE STARTER WITH ANYTHING to get it to turn over. These larger magnets will crack and the starter will never work again. If you did, it's time for a tow. This is not the 80's anymore. You don't need to beat the crap out your vehicle to get it to start. Try the hose, get home and replace the starter. Your electrical system is fine.
  • So we own a couple 2007 GMC savana vans and they would not start when hot. If I let it cool for about 30 min. it would fire right up. I had tons of morons try to tell me what was wrong with these vans. All kinds of electrical issues etc. My mechanic finally figured it out. Its the STARTER. To make sure you are having the same problem as I was, get under the van (when it is hot and wont start). Locate the starter and spray it with a hose for about two minutes. This cools the starter and it should fire right up. Be careful not to spray anything else. It is never good to spray cold water on hot car parts. The problem is simple. The starter housing expands when it is hot and magnets inside cannot make contact. Therefor, the starter wont turn until it cools and contracts. Yes magnets. Not like a typical brush in an electric motor. These are a bit different. Whatever you do, DO NOT HIT THE STARTER WITH ANYTHING to get it to turn over. These larger magnets will crack and the starter will never work again. If you did, it's time for a tow. This is not the 80's anymore. You don't need to beat the crap out your vehicle to get it to start. Try the hose, get home and replace the starter. Your electrical system is fine.
  • ifineifine Posts: 1
    Has anyone had fuel injector problems on Chev Express 5.7 o and I have a 99 that is running rough, mechanic says I need to replace the injector and they are part of the manifold and come as a set. Does any of that make sense. Would appreciate advise and help. Thanks
  • i have a 2000 chevy express 3500 with a 5.7liter i get it to start and starts fine but after about 10 mins it dies and wont restart when i try to restart it makes a loud clanking noise while turning over iv went throw 3 starters with this problm. so i thought it was the fuel pump or fuel filter so i replaced both and am still haveing the same problm anyone have any ideas what could b going wrong this is my work truck so i need it on the road
  • I would investigate the loud clanking noise while cranking over. Three starters , probably in a short period of time needs attention.

    Does the engine make the clanking sound every time you start it or try to start it? Does the engine spit and sputter when shutting off or just act like the key was turned off?

    You can buy a manual for the van and it may help. You can monitor the fuel pressure while the engine is running and see if it drops off. An OBDII tester may give you some codes if there are engine problems. There is a crank position sensor that could be going bad, or the timing module in the distributor could be failing. When the engine shuts off do the idiot lights on the dash come on, when the engine does not want to start again are there any idiot lights on on the dash? Could be control module problems, loose wire or bad ground...

    Good luck!
  • when i can get it to start it starts fine but after about 10-15 mins it sputters out no warning lights r on while running but a check engine light comes on after it dies and when i try to restart is when it makes the loud clanking noise like the engine wants to cease if i let it sit for a long period of time it will start for those 10-15 mins
  • If you have access to an OBDII tester it will give you the code that was displayed when the engine shut down. It may be helpful in determining what is happening. You can buy a fairly inexpensive code reader for under $100.00. It may only give you the code or codes as alpha numeric, then you will need a manual of web site to decipher the codes. This should point you in the right direction or at least help.

    I use an AUTOTAP code reader with expanded information specific to the Fords, Chevy's and Chrysler products. (www.autotap.com) It is expensive but it has helped me with several cars.
  • HI FOLKS... I BEEN INTERESTED IN .THIS CONVERSATION .......ABOUT THE VANS I AM LOOKING TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS VAN LOCALLY... AND IT HAD A SORT HISTORY OF SIMILAR PROBLEMS.... THE GUY WHO OWN THE VAN NOW SEZ ..... HE CHANGE THE .....CAP AND ROTOR AND IT RUNS FINE NOW....

    I AM A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC ( REFRIGERATION) JUST SAYING

    AND I DONT SEE ANY WHERE YOU GUYS ACTUALLY FOUND THE SMOKING GUN.... BECAUSE I HEARD THIS PROBLEM... IS SO INTERMIITTING... THAT IT CAN COME AND GO LONG PERIODS OF TIME... AND WHAT WAS THOUGHT AS A CORRECTIVE MESSURE MAY NOT BE.... ANY WAY DID ANY ONE EVER CONTACT THE NATIONAL SERVICE MANAGERS AT THE FACTORY?????

    IS THERE A FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ??

    OR DID ANY OF YOU GUYS FEEL YOU GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PROBLEM .. BECAUSE I DONT SEE THAT IN THE COMMENTS?

    PLEASE HELP!!! I REALLY WANT TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS BUT NOW I AM HESITANT ... AND I WOULD GREATLY APRECIATE SOME HELP
  • HI FOLKS... I BEEN INTERESTED IN .THIS CONVERSATION .......ABOUT THE VANS I AM LOOKING TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS VAN LOCALLY... AND IT HAD A SORT HISTORY OF SIMILAR PROBLEMS.... THE GUY WHO OWN THE VAN NOW SEZ ..... HE CHANGE THE .....CAP AND ROTOR AND IT RUNS FINE NOW....

    I AM A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC ( REFRIGERATION) JUST SAYING

    AND I DONT SEE ANY WHERE YOU GUYS ACTUALLY FOUND THE SMOKING GUN.... BECAUSE I HEARD THIS PROBLEM... IS SO INTERMIITTING... THAT IT CAN COME AND GO LONG PERIODS OF TIME... AND WHAT WAS THOUGHT AS A CORRECTIVE MESSURE MAY NOT BE.... ANY WAY DID ANY ONE EVER CONTACT THE NATIONAL SERVICE MANAGERS AT THE FACTORY?????

    IS THERE A FACTORY SERVICE BULLETIN ABOUT THIS PROBLEM ??

    OR DID ANY OF YOU GUYS FEEL YOU GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PROBLEM .. BECAUSE I DONT SEE THAT IN THE COMMENTS?

    PLEASE HELP!!! I REALLY WANT TO BUY THIS 2002 EXPRESS BUT NOW I AM HESITANT ... AND I WOULD GREATLY APRECIATE SOME HELP
  • magna82magna82 Posts: 2
    I, too, have been interested in this thread. I will be working on a 2000 GMC for a friend with this same problem. He has wasted $1K on failed fixes. I have 40 years experience in electronics and rebuild wrecked or flooded vehicles as a hobby. I find one notable response on this forum referring to a loose ground at the thermostat housing. I also would like to share that alldatadiy.com has online manuals and service bulletins for a very reasonable subscription. I found there is a service bulletin released in 2003 that is in regard to corrosion problems with the VCM under the hood near the relay center on the left side of the vehicle. There is a revised splash shield to help prevent further damage. I find it interesting that I did not hear mention of this from any of the posts that took there van to a dealer. I only happened on this site, tonight in researching the issue to help my friend, this weekend. I will try to post my findings here when I get his fixed.
  • magna82magna82 Posts: 2
    With the engine housing removed, I held a neon tester against one of the spark plug wires while cranking the engine. The neon flashed so I knew I had ignition. I took the cap off of the schraeder valve on the fuel line feeding the injectors and carefully pressing the center pin to check for any pressure (should be about 50 psi), there was none. I took off the air cleaner and removed the mass air flow sensor. I then poured about 2 ounces of fuel in the duct leading to the throttle body. I then cranked the engine, which started and ran until the fuel was all gone, about 10-15 seconds. I then verified that there was 12 volts at the fuel pump relay and after replacing the relay, I verified that the relay clicked when the key was turned on. I then crawled under the van and split connector C301 at the front of the fuel tank and checked for voltage and ground. I found the ground pin in position "A" had become hot and melted the plastic. I knew that there had been a poor connection which raised the resistance of the connection causing it to heat under load. I took apart the pins and cleaned and soldered each one. The ground pin on the mating half of the connector was blackened as well. Cleaned everything up and put it back together. The pump runs fine, now. I am ordering a new connector body(12110751) to replace the melted section.
  • My starting problems starting the van happened about 3 months into the
    rainy season and my '01 5.7 was 2 years old and still under warranty. The mechanic said it was moisture under the distributer cap and that I needed to drive it more. It happened again about a year later this time I looked at it myself and found copious amounts of moisture and corrosion. A new cap and rotor fixed the problem temporarily. The design and configuration is very susceptible to steam building in the small engine compartment and entering the vents in the bottom of the distributer and not escaping then the firing storm in the confined space corrodes and carbon tracks the components to premature failure. GM sent a tsb recommending removing the vent screens (not a good idea since it allows more moisture in.). I believe I have solved my problem by fabricating a vent fixed into the top (heat rises GM!) of the cap. I cut the vent from another model cap, drilled a hole in my cap and secured the vent with epoxy. So far so good! My last cap and rotor tracked so bad that it burned a hole through the rotor an stopped running while driving down the road. A new cap and rotor every 18-24 months will work I just got tired of the work and expense. I have gone through 4 or 5 sets before I put the vent in the top. Good luck.

    Cheers
  • crewvancrewvan Posts: 2
    2000 5.7 As I posted in a earlier post, Engine would start and run for 10 to 30 seconds than die, no codes, no warning light, no security light. After restarting for the 3rd time, I could drive until shut engine off for 10 minutes, then it would start the same thing all over again. Pulled fuel pump, checked good. Replaced central SFI injection system with a BWD MFI conversion from Advance Auto Parts #63886 ($304). This fixed the problem. My problem was like a diesel engine with air in the lines. Check the fuel line connector orings close to the distributor.
    They can seal with fuel pressure and leak air back into the line without pressure and will not leak gas. I found them bad when reinstalling.
  • gqintxgqintx Posts: 2
    edited June 2011
    I've found many problems in this forum can be a result of a poor ground at the fuse block under the hood on drivers side. This box tends to become loose at the screw(s) where it both grounds and anchors to the vehicles body. I simply removed the screw(s) cleaned with a wire brush, replaced them assuring they are tight. (Problems Solved!!!!!!!) Also would't be a bad idea to remove the cover to this block and check all relays and fuses to make sure they are properly seated. Hope this works for many of you......Reply to me with any updates.
  • gqintxgqintx Posts: 2
    I've found many problems in this forum can be a result of a poor ground at the fuse block under the hood on drivers side. This box tends to become loose at the screw(s) where it both grounds and anchors to the vehicles body. I simply removed the screw(s) cleaned with a wire brush, replaced them assuring they tight. (Problems Solved!!!!!!!) Also would't be a bad idea to remove the cover to this block and check all relays and fuses to make sure they are properly seated. Hope this works for many of you......Reply to me with any updates.
  • my truck does the same thing, its moisture getting inside a crack in the coil... the best solution i found is spray starting fluid lightly around coil, then air off with computer keyboard aerosol spray air.. will be up and runnin in 3 minuts...
  • I have a 96 Express with the vortec 350. it will only start if I hold the gas pedal to the floor. Once it starts it runs a little rough but able to drive. It will cut out and spit and sputter little but still runs down the road. You can shut it off and have to hold the pedal to the floor to start it again. It does not matter if its hot or cold. Seem to run rich. Its not putting out any codes.Things I have replaced and or ruled out. First I have good gas pressure. And spark seems to be good. I just installed the upgraded fuel injection system, fuel filter,cap,rotor, plugs. all new upper gaskets. MAF is good. Throttle body was cleaned and look to be good. Iam at a loss. Have know clue what it could be.It only has 140,000 mile and I have $700 into it now and it still has not fixed the starting problem. Please let me know what you think. Maybe crank sensor or map?I just know and running out of money to put more parts that dont fix the problem. Thank for any help
  • clean fuel injection..
  • hey everyone just noticed most of the issues everyone is having with their expresses or savanas is after the van is warm or hot. here is a new one for you my neighbours express has issues when its cold. the other day i tried to start it to move it and it took all day to get it going finally after almost killing battery i cleaned all contact points inside the cap including rotor finally engine started. however i noticed that two days ago when my neighbour started van it backfired after trying for quite some time anyway to the point of my issue i noticed that once it was going it idled high and very rough, so i had him shut it down and restart it and when he started it the second time the idle was immediately lower and smooth. i was curious as to what sensors actually run at first because i know that the engine was definately not warmed up so it must have been still in closed loop i think. anyone who knows feel free to help as it seems weird that the van on the second try seemed to run perfect.
  • This Cargo Van will not start, if I take out Air Filter and spray Starting Fluid in it starts and runs, is this the fuel pump? I would think if the pump was out the engine would not run at all.
  • Have you checked the Mass air flow sensor, here is a link where you don't need a scanner to check it, it's a few steps but it till save you money and the directions are clear as glass:

    web site:

    http://easyautodiagnostics.com/

    Common Symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor
    This list is not all inclusive but it does contain the most common symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor are:
    The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (CEL) on your Instrument Cluster is lit nice and bright with one of the following codes:
    P0101 Mass Air Flow System Performance.
    P0102 Mass Air Flow Low Frequency.
    P0103 Mass Air Flow High Frequency.
    Lean and/or Rich code(s).
    Fuel Trim code(s).
    A tremendous lack of power upon acceleration.
    Black smoke coming from the tail-pipe.
    Vehicle may idle rough and stall.
  • 97 1500 vortec wont start cold it sounds like it wants to start but may take up to 20trys once it starts it runs great and will start all day....any ideas
  • mip3mip3 Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2000 GMC 5.7, WONT START ON A RAINY DAY, FIRST TIME I JUST HAD TO WAIT FOR Mr. SUN TO COME OUT AND PROBLEM SOLVED. THIS TIME I CHEKED SPARK AT IGNI-COIL, FOUND IT NICE AND BLUE, BUT AT THE SPARK PLUG END WAS YELLOW AND WEAK. REPLACED ROTOR AND CAP, PROBLEM SOLVED.....LETS SEE FOR HOW LONG.....
  • Having the same exact problem. Every time it rains. I cannot get it to turn over for squat. I initially had a problem with a severe lack of power. Having just bought my 3500 express (short bus) I was working my way through the vehicle. found a spark plug wire completely off. That fixed my power problem. replaced distributer cap all plugs and wires. Also found a bolt on the exhaust manifold completely missing. I am in the process of tracking that down.

    Bigger issue is the darn rain. as soon as it dries up, the thing turns right over with no hesitation. I found the rain guard over the fuse box on the drivers side a little loose. I have just realigned it. I also saw water on some of the connections. Hopefully it is that simple. I heard replacing the fuel pressure regulator works, but can't imagine thats the case here. It seems purely electrical and due to wetness. Any input would be helpful if anyone has a definite fix for this issue.
  • docholiday69docholiday69 Posts: 3
    edited January 2012
    I have an issue I've never had before. I have had the moisture problem and fixed it with the new distributor cap. Two days ago I was driving on the thruway in NY it was raining and the van stalled but then started right back up. Without turning the motor over to start it?
    This happened about 4 times until it stalled and didn't start. I was pulling off the thruway and put it into to neutral and turned the key and it started. I drove about 20 miles and it stalled again, this time it didn't start. I tried several times to start it but no luck. I started my call to AAA and tried one more time and it started. I then drove from Rochester to Syracuse without incident about 70 miles. However this morning we have about 12" of snow and it will not start. Sorry for the long post but thought I'd have to tell the whole story for someone to diagnose it.

    Thanks
    Dan
  • When the engine cuts out and resumes running are there any indicating lights flashing? It could be fuel pump, electrical, ignition, or the Power Train Control Module could be developing a problem. If the engine will not start that helps in trouble shooting.

    If you are going to trouble shoot this yourself, I would recommend you have a manual like a Chilton's or Haynes for the van.

    You can check for fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester, the manual will have detailed information.

    Check for spark at a plug or at the coil. There is a spark plug tester with a clip to secure the test plug to the engine.

    An OBDII Tester may show a fault code or help with the trouble shooting.

    Good luck.

    I take it you live on the north side of the city with that much snow. We got about 4 inches of snow, I live about 18 miles south of Market Place Mall.
  • docholiday69docholiday69 Posts: 3
    edited January 2012
    When it stalled and started the speedometer fell to 0 and the check gauges light came on. My abs brake light is always on so that didn't change.

    I just had my plugs and wires changed about a month ago.

    Aside from the 3 time change of the computer in this vehicle{bad design with water shield it dumps on the computer} and the distributor cap it's been a good vehicle.

    I've had it since 1998. I didn't know it was possible for an auto tranny to restart like that, without turning the key? I had it on a charger most of the day yesterday and it just wont start.

    Thanks
    Dan
  • I had a similar problem after I changed the intake manifold gaskets. I had a loose ground wire that completed the circuit for the computer. My indicating lights acted funny and when the OBDII Tester was plugged in it completed the grounding and everything worked fine.

    If you check spark on the coil wire and it appears to be intermittent, it could be the crank position sensor or the module in the distributor. With intermittent spark the engine will sound like it wants to start. If it just spins over and there is no attempt to start you need to verify fuel pressure and spark.

    Good luck.

    Don, from Livonia,NY
  • It's making no attempt to start at all. Thanks for the help everyone. I will keep you posted as to what it is.

    Thanks
    Dan
  • roadracermarioroadracermario Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    i have an 02 express 3500 5.7 since it was new after running park it and it doesn't start. subsequently changed the fuel injection system (standard f504) fuel pressure regulator evap purge valve fuel line o-rings at manifold cap rotor and wires plugs fuel pump. I still have after all that loss of power rough idle bad gas mileage. I was told that the original cats were clogged i cut them out and inspected but they were fine. I read about your split connector c301 how would this stop the truck from running intermittenly there is no corrosion heat damage etc. At a loss where to go next
  • Check your coil. A lot times you replace a part and the part goes bad because of another malfunctioning part. The spark can look good, but under load Its not enough. Problem is in the ignition somewhere.
  • we bought an 03, 3500 express 6.0 yesterday and drove it home. today it won't crank. when i first started trying to start it, the gauges would do a little dance and then register, then the needles would do a little dance and not register and the radio quit coming on. when i turn the key i can hear the fuel pump working but the starter doesn't click or nothing. we changed the batt, checked the fusses and ohm'd the relay. any ideas ?
  • Ok so as many of you I have had all the same problems. I had poor gas mileage, random stalling, starting problems and also missing at highway speed without a load or under heavey throttle. I noticed my timing was all over the place and the cap and rotor button where in bad shape. I changed the ditributor (a bad rotor button and cap may cause missing but play in the distributor shaft will cause the timing to bounce all over) and put a new cap and button on it. This solved my timing issue and missing at highway speed. I figured perhaps it was the distributor. for the next 2 days everything was great, no stalling and fuel mileage was way better. Then the family and I went to the store and out to breakfast. It was really windy and was blowing the van all over the place. while at speed the van stalled again and as many of you, all componets inside the van powered down. The needles on the guages did a little dance and then everything went back to normal. I drove the rest of the way home and parked the van.

    The next morning I went to leave for work and once I turned the key all the lights turned off and I had nothing. No clicks at the starter or anything sign of life at all. I did some research as I was starting to think I had a coputer problem. As it turns out 1996-1998 GM made the housing of the computer out of aluminum and the bolts that hold it together out of steel. What happens is that the steel bolt heads corrode and break off, the heads of the bolts are on the bottum and when the break they allow moisture to enter the computer. If you look under the master cylider you can see how this could be a bad choice to locate the computer and also how rain could sling onto the exact location of the connectors and front bolts.

    So after reading this information and also watching a video, I removed my computer and inspected it. As it turns out I was not impacted by this problem but did see corrotion all over the computer and decided to mitigate the risk by replacing the bolts with stainless hardware and also using rtv to seal the two halves of the computer case.

    Then I sat down and documented all of my problems and what I was doing once the van stalled and something I found in common, each time it was very windy or I was turning the van to the left. I had allready checked all grounds etc and the battery was only 6 months old so I didnt bother with that. Well that was my mistake. The battery hold down was not tight and when turning left the battery was sliding and pulling on the cables. Even though they seamed tight enough I disconnected the battery and cleaned all connection points then reinstalled it and tightened the hold down snug to insure the battery does not move. Needless to say all my problems are resolved.

    I hope that you get as lucky as I did but if it wasnt that simple I also hope I helped by informing you about the computer problem they are known to have....
  • I would also like to add that before changing the distributor I had the random high idle issue others have had as well. If you have a nice scanner you can graph the timing at idle and I would jump between -2.7 and -27.5 degrees at 654rpm. after changing the distributor the timing looks like a flat line and the engine idles proper.
  • i would like to add what we found. we bought the van and drove it home no problem. the next day i went to start it and nothing. DH got under and jumped it with a screw driver while i turned the key and we got it started. we went and got a new starter and DH informed me that we might of saved that cost if he had made sure the wire connections on the starter were tight in the first place.
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