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Caravan/Voyager Electrical Issues

cckittenscckittens Posts: 3
I am female so I will describe the problem. This morning I started my van and the speedometer and the tack would not work the gas and the oil gages work fine. But also when I am driving I have what I call a glitch in the drive. I will be driving then in feel like a very hard shift. I can feel the pull when it does this. My question is can both of these issues be the same problem? Can it be that I have a bad computer switch? PLEASE HELP!!!!


  • fxman1fxman1 Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Voyager that has 165000km on it. I bought it used 6 months ago. It has been working great but the other day I lost power. Even though the engine runs and revs fine there is a lack of power. The speedometer needle actually creeps up and sometimes go to the end of the scale 200kmph. Engine is not revving up. If I pull over it will allow me to pull away again but within 100 yds, it starts again.

    It is all right when it is cold for the first 3-4km.

    I disconnected the battery to see if that would reset anything because it almost seems electrical as opposed to mechanical. I checked the error code (ignition ON - OFF - ON - OFF - ON in 5 seconds) and get a 12 which tells me only that the battery had been disconnected.

    Twice shutting the engine off and re-starting then it worked. Now it makes no difference.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • mtylerjrmtylerjr Posts: 8
    This is driving me crazy.

    I acquired a 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager a few months ago from a relative. The Registration expired in March, and I am trying to get it to pass smog.

    It has a bizarre problem where, while driving the engine just shuts off. The lights, radio, everything still works, the engine just quits. And it takes anywhere from 10 seconds to 15 minutes before I can restart the vehicle.

    Now it does this anywhere from 1 to 4-5 times a day. Ive tried to get the vehicle smogged, but it wont pass, because several of the sensors wont come back as initialized, or something. The guys aid there were no 'codes' but that the sensor/monitors still needed to reset - only they dont.

    How does one diagnose this sort of intermittent problem? Ive read about all sorts of other mysterious electronic problems with these mid-late 1990's chrysler minivans.

    I do know that I have some sort of radiator problem, with a stuck belt or something. Im not sure the radiator fans are turning (they havent when Ive looked)

    Does anyone know what the best way to have something like this diagnosed, is? The Dealer charged me $100 just to tell me to replace the vehicle (Quoted me something like $5000 to replace the transmission, which works fine, the radiator, reseal the engine, yadda yadda)

    I just need the thing to pass smog (Emissions are great, just the electronics problem)

    Any advice would be helpful. The vehicle has 178K miles on it.
  • vet55vet55 Posts: 1
    have a 91 grand caravan that the interior lights do not dim as they should how do you set then?
  • lilacslilacs Posts: 1
    We are having the same problem.. it started yesterday. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Lilacs
  • jimandy52jimandy52 Posts: 1
    Hi cckittens - Check to see if your speedometer and tach needles spun around and are being held down by the bottom stop pin. It happened to me the other day, while jump starting our Caravan, the needles both surged and spun around so that they're now held BELOW zero and can't move up.

    Has this happened to anyone else? Any suggestions?

  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    Check out this post:

    97xpresso, "Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited" #1919, 3 Aug 2005 4:27 pm!keywords=allin%3Amsgtext%20limit%3A.f0a25f0%20needles
  • andrespandresp Posts: 4
    I had the same problem in my 1996 PV with 290000 km,

    Its the Speed sensor located in the Transmission, it cost about $65 CAD and you can replace it yourself.

    remove it first, the connection plug may vary from one model to another.

    regards :)
  • andrespandresp Posts: 4
    The 25 amp ENGINE fuse keeps blowing on my 96 Plymouth Voyager, THE first time I replaced it lasted 1 week
    the second time, 1 day, now it blows out between 1 to 10 minutes after start.
    I've taken the van to the dealership, but they can NOT find the Problem. This is no surprise by the way.
    Has anyone had this problem before? What is it? and how it was resolved?

    Thank you in advance.
  • cchiesacchiesa Posts: 1
    We have a 1993 Plymouth Voyager with 130,000. A couple of weeks ago the temperature and oil gages began to jump around while driving. Last week it seems a poltergeist took hold of the electrical system. While driving the door locks started clicking, all the lights that normal go off after the car starts began to flash on and off, and the speedometer jumped around. The lights and wipers continued to work normally. The car has now been at the dealer for a week and they are unable to diagnose the problem (which of course stopped on the drive to the dealer). At first they thought it was the cluster but have now changed their minds. Anyone else have this problem in the past? With 130,000 miles we don't want to put a lot into repairs.
  • Hi, We were driving yesterday and were on the freeway and it just stopped. The engine will turn over but I can't get it to fire. And know power going to coil. we need van to get back and fourth to work so any help I would be greatful.

    thank you
  • My 91 has been humming along (fingers crossed) when I got the 'check engine' light on/off intermittent. I didn't really have any time to diagnose the problem as we had quests in town etc. etc.
    Then I noticed the raido started to fade out but it was storming out so I thought it might be the weather as it was fine again the next day.
    Well finally today I stopped the van and it wouldn't start. Got a boost to get me home but my suspicion is the alternator is bad.
    So my real question is (assuming I'm right) how hard is it to change it? Looks like my biggest challenge would be dealing with the serpentine belt etc.
    My battery is only a year old and I will throw a charger on it tonight.
  • Thought I'd update my post. I got a serpentine tool which allowed me to release the belt tension and remove the alternator. So I was able to replace it, it was just a tough job getting the alternator out as it had to go out under the engine.
  • I'm helping my father in law with finishing a wreck repaired 2003 Caravan. When you open the left front door, the odometer and door ajar warning light comes on, and when you slam the door HARD, the odometer and door ajar lights turn off, but only for an instant before turning back on. Seems to be indicative of a switch problem. The wiring diagram shows a door ajar switch, but we can't physically locate the switch. Any ideas? A wire runs to the door latch, appearing to be for electric door lock function, is it possible that the door ajar switch is integrated with the door latch?
  • OMG, this sounds similar to my car. My instrument panel will just shut off. the needles go down to the zero's. the air seems like it esn't blow out as strong as it should. I've had numerous problems with this van and I can't wait to send it to the junk yard. so far, my transmission has been acting normal with the exception of it shifting hard when I start to slow down for stop signs or lights. My van has 141,000 on it and its a 1999
  • I have a 1997 Plymouth Voyager. It has an engine and transmission from a 1996 Nissan Maxima. On a recent trip home from Texas, my van would not let my speed get over 45mph. It just didn't want to go. Can anyone tell me if this is a transmission problem or something else? I've been told it could be a speed sensor.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Are you sure you have a Nissan Maxima engine and transmission in your Voyager? If so, someone spent a lot of time and effort to do this, and now you have a vehicle nobody will be willing to service or stand behind. If I was a mechanic I wouldn't want to touch this vehicle with a ten foot pole.

    I cannot believe anyone would actually go to all the time and effort to try to modify a Voyager in such a way. The electronic interfaces have to be a mess!

    I doubt if anyone will be able to help you on this, other than maybe whoever did the modifications in the first place!
  • I have a 1998 Grand Voyager. The battery light came on because the battery terminals were dirty. I cleaned the terminals and the battery is charging as it should. The problem I have now is the lights on the 2 rear wiper switches are blinking on and off when the key is on. The A/C and recirculate lights do not come on when they are turned on. Everything is working, the lights are messed up. I have tried removing the cables again with no luck.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Some people have posted a procedure for clearing these issues in another Inside Line discussion. I cut and pasted these instructions from post #3976 in the Dodge/Plymouth Chrysler Minivans Problems & Solutions discussion:

    All you need to do is start your van. Then slide your temp lever all the way to full cold. Then turn the Mode Control to the one that sends air to your face only. Then turn the 'blower switch' to all the way to full. Now go to the leftmost three buttons. Press the top one (rear wiper on constant) and the bottom one (rear wiper washer fluid). Hold these two for a few seconds. Once the lights come on solid then begin to flash, you can let go. The AC will now calibrate. You will feel the air blow out of all the different zones at different intervals and see lights come on and go off. Then after a minute or two the top button you pressed will be slowly flashing. This means it has been completed. Press the last flashing button and you are done. Turn off the van and started it back up and see now you don't have those infernal blinking lights anymore! Hope this helps! Oh, be careful with the battery, it is very touchy on Dodge Caravans and can blow out any electrical thing so it is better to take the battery out and charge it and don't charge it directly. One guy mentioned it blew his on board computer just accidently touching the wrench and grounding the battery so be careful with the battery.
  • otis9otis9 Posts: 8
    I have a base model 91 with the 2.5 auto.
    I was pulling into a parking space when it shut down.
    Acted as if someone turned the key off.
    I have no radio, turn signals, idiot lights/gages or wipers.
    I do have emergency flashers, headlights, interior lights, heater fan remote tail gate lock and that enoying ding when you leave the key in the ignition.

    I called 3 dealerships (they all wanted me to bring it in or didn't have any idea. How? Tow it again? ) & Chrysler's help line ( that gal told me to check the battery wich I told her was good) didn't have a clue either.

    Any idea where the fusable links are located???

    Anyone have ideas?
  • I just got rid of my 1999 plymouth voyager it had 142000 miles on it at the time of sale. I traded it in for a 2005 kia sportage. I couldn't deal with the frustration any longer and also, they did a compression test on it and it failed miserably. it also has an electrical problem, the compressor needs to be replaced, the oxygen sensor is bad. we were in a long line of traffic and it started smoking terribly, shuttering and stalled. so needless to say, no more crappy plymouth's!!!! Good luck with your car. :sick:
  • We were out and about all day, stopped to run an errand and that was that. The van would not restart, would turn over but not start, thinking that it was the starter that was already giving me trouble I replaced it. No change... I found that as long as the battery had a charge the starter would turn the flywheel so it wasn't that, and after pulling one of the spark plug wires off there was no spark.

    After talking to a few people I decided to take a chance and replace the ignition dice there either...
    Does anyone have an idea of where I should start next?? :sick:
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I have a friend that had a similar problem with an 89 Shadow (it had the 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engine as well). It turned out to be the timing belt. He had the belt replaced and it was fine. If it is a timing belt failure, you should not have any engine damage because this engine has a non-interference design. Good luck.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    Not to flame you or anything, but do you think the kia will last 8 years with 142,000 miles? I read all of the Kia Sedona problems board, with the conclusion that their 10/100,000 warranty is useless. Also a second-hand 2005 cuts the original warranty in half
  • well, I got a brand new 2006 kia sportage. not sure where the sedona came about. Quite honestly, all I know is it's not a dodge and I really don't care. I bought my car with 67k on it (voyager) and I got 4 years out of it. so by the time I got it, it was already 4 so in total, 8 years. I have a friend who has a 99 kia sportage and he's going on 101k and his only problem is cruise control issues. so talk to me in 8 years and I'll let you know the answer!
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    Your post said 2005 sportage. If you purchased a new 2006, you do have a 10 year, 100,000 mile warranty. I was just relaying what I have read about Kia not honoring their generous warranty on many occaisions in the Kia minivan disscussions. Maybe you'll have better luck with your new vehicle, rather than getting a 4 year old vehicle with almost 70,000 miles.
  • We have a 96 Caravan with 250,000 miles. The car has been great. No problems that I would not expect. About 25,000 miles ago it started having a little electric problem. From other posts I have searched here I have other vans that have symptoms that are similar, with one exception. Every once in a while the car will start, but as soon as you let the key go to the “run” position, it will die. When this happens, the digital gauges will not light. If you let the car sit for a period of time (a few hours at least, usually overnight before we try to start it again), it always starts and runs fine. However, sometimes the gauges will go out while driving and nothing happens. It has never died once running but the alarm set light comes on when all gauges go to zero and digital indicators go out. Sometimes the car will start and run fine for a month. Sometimes it will act up 3 times a week.

    Only one dealer will look at it anymore and he has no idea. At least they didn’t charge me. My normal mechanic has no idea. The electrical guy we take the cars to has no idea. We have replaced the: BCM, downstream O2 sensor, the MAP sensor, ignition switch. I have a feeling the alarm system is causing this. However I have been told the alarm is integral to the BCM and cant’ be deactivated. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • My driver side door open/closed sensor is not working. When I open the door, the dome lights don't go on and when I open the door after driving, ignition alarm doesn't ring and the radio stays on.

    Is the sensor expensive, where is it located and can I replace it myself?
  • otis9otis9 Posts: 8
    Update, still dead.
    Finally found a service manager at a local Chysler dealer that would give me a clue!
    He told me to check the fusable links in the wiring harness.
    He was nice enough to eplain they are orange in color ad tagged "fuse link". They are still hard to find. Looks just like an orange wire spliced into rhe middle of a red (or other color) wire. Some were covered with factory electrical tape.
    Found one burnt going to the first (front) relay. Spliced in a new wire and it burned more as soon as I turned on the key.

    Anyone know if a bad relay could cause the problem or what that relay controls? Radiator fan? :confuse:
  • I have a 1997 Dodge Caravan SE that I was told by my mechanic that the computer was going out and needed to be replaced. On Halloween night, the door locks kept going up and down. The interior lights kept coming on and off. The door ajar light kept coming on. It is still doing it. Any suggestions on what could be the problem? If the computer system needs to be replaced how do I go about doing it?
  • otis9otis9 Posts: 8
    Problem found!!
    As I was flipping thru Chilton's for 20th+ time, I ran across a drawing (no where near the electrical section) of the 3 relays on the driver's side inner fender.
    The front relay is the radiator relay. I unplugged the fan & spliced what was left of the fuseable link. The van started right up & didn't burn the link.
    Picked up an after market inline replaceable fuse link & a new fan motor.
    I soldered the new link in place of the factory fuseable link wire.
    The new motor was around $45 at Advanced Auto Parts.
    You have to drill the rivets out of the mounting bracket & replace them with bolts. Well worth messing with. I was quoted around $143 for the whole assembly

    I have a 98 Cavalier that had a fan motor go out also.
    At least GM puts a fuse box under the hood that doesn't shut down half of the electrical system if the fuse blows!

    Hope this helps someone in the future!
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