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VW Jetta Basic Maintenance Questions (Oil changes, fluids, etc.)
darrellglen
Member Posts: 1
Every time I change my oil the seal on oil filter leaks. A bubble forms in the seal and sprays oil everywhere. I have to loosen the filter and the screw it back to stop the leak. Sometimes I have to do this 2-3 times before the leak stops. What am I doing wrong?
See also: When should you change your oil?
See also: When should you change your oil?
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I'd like to do my own oil changes on my wifes' 06 Jetta TDI, but don't know where to start. I have always changed the oil on my trucks and my wifes' Denali (which we traded in for the jetta) because it's about 1/3 of the price compared to the dealer or the local jiffy lube. However, i'm new with deisels, and especially doing oil changes on a car with a deisel. Is there a website or pictures showing what needs to be done, and what FRAM (or other store part brand) oil filter will definitely work with the oil change? I'm going to be using Castrol synthetic - the kind that the manual calls for. Also, is there a fuel filter or "water trap" that needs to be changed? how often? etc.... Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
This is my first car, ever.
I am taking my car for a service check tomorrow but, I just had to run this by some people.
When I purchased my car in July 2006 it already at 23,330 miles on it. To date I drove it approx. 2,620 miles.
I started checking my dipstick a week ago because I was told around 3,000, you have to bring in for oil change, fluids, etc.
My dipstick was dry.
I called a different service place and the VW lady told me that the dipstick was tricky and that i needed to bring it in, since I may still have oil in there. She went on to tell me not to take it to a midas, pep boys because it is a european car and they won't know how to take care of it. When I ask to make an appt. the next one was a week and a half away! I asked what type of oil and she said 10w30
To make a long story short, I took to a pep boys after I purchased the oil and they stated to their knowledge and by computer I was to have 5w30, 10w30 was too heavy. After checking the engine they stated that there was no oil. I put 2 bottles of oil in the engine.
Now, from what I read in the manual, no warning light comes on for low oil and my engine was not making any type of noises, stallings or anything, but, How can oil disappear from an engine? People are saying that oil does not disappear only gets dirty? I do not see any leaks from where I parked recently or ever.
Any thoughts? :surprise:
I would take it to either the dealership, or a private mechanic who specializes in VWs. Since you have a 2.0L engine, 5w30 sounds about right. Using the VW factory oil filter (usually manufactured by MANN) is a must, not only because of their robust construction, but also the role they play as an integral part in regulating and maintaining the proper engine oil pressure.
As an added bonus, the VW factory oil filter has two steel ball-bearing check valves - a bypass valve and an anti-drainback valve. The bypass valve is used in regulating the oil pressure and the anti-drainback valve is used to keep dirty oil from flowing back into the engine when you turn off the ignition.
The bypass valve and anti-drainback valves on the cheaper aftermarket filters are usually made of rubber, which doesn't last very long and does a lousy job at regulating engine oil pressure.
As far as the low oil is concerned, the engine probably hasn't been broken in properly yet. As soon as you get the car serviced, I would start taking it out on the highway for a good run every now and then, and check the oil periodically (especially during fillups at the gas station) and make sure you keep a couple of extra quarts of oil in the trunk as an insurance policy until the engine has been properly broken in.
As far as oil changes go, you should change your oil at least every 3,500 miles if the majority of your drives are in the city (stop and go). If the majority of your drives are on the highway, then the oil should be changed every 5,000 miles (since you have the 2.0 engine, your oil change interval may be in the area of 7,000-10,000 miles - I would check with your local dealer just to be on the safe side)...
HTH...
Secondly, I supposidly took her to a Midas...they never did any work on her though just a look over. but I will keep that in mind, never knew that she was that "special" !
thanks!
Also, does the Rotella T 5w40 synthetic oil meet the VW 502 00 standard?
Thanks for any assistance.
I would not recommend that practice. In fact, the starting process may actually inject MORE fuel than just idling for a minute.
Certainly if you are sitting waiting for a slow-moving freight train to go by... turn off the engine.
To specifically answer your quiestion, I dont think you would see any measurable "wear" either way.
You would perhaps get more MPG increase by leaving in gear longer as you decellate and push the clutch at the last possible minute. This is because NO FUEL AT ALL is injected while decellerating.
If you have an automatic xmission, putting into PARK will use less fuel than sitting still in DRIVE.... (the onboard computer compensates for the load when in DRIVE and injects more fuel.)
what i am trying to figure out, during my next oil change, should i put 5w30 instead, to allow the oil to work through the engine faster but would it coat just as good? or should i stick with 10w30 to allow the lifters to be slightly quieter even though it is slightly noisy on start up?
another quick question...do you have to change your VW filter @ every oil change?
any thoughts would be greatly appreciated
thanks in advance
I am not sure how a good cleaning will reduce the oil-draining from the cam followers when engine is off... but it has worked for me.
BTW: STP oil treatment is VERY thick and will improve your viscosity. Risoline is water-thin and will NOT improve viscosity.
----
As for your question about the oilfilter.... VW used to recommend that the filter was replaced every OTHER oilchange... but now they recommend every oilchange. It is cheap insurance to screw a new filter on when changing the oil. I do all my oilchanges FROM UNDER THE HOOD. (3 VWs in family) ... the filter is easilly replaced by reacing down from above. (even in NB [New Beetle])
A little while ago I posted on here regarding oil not being in my car. No leaks, no engine light; car was running just the same. As an update, I took it back to the dealership and the guy stated that when I had my car fixed, they must have emptied my oil. He said he checked everything no leaks and he wanted me to come back in a week to see what happens.
I took it back and he said it was fine. Since then I had my car state/emissions tested, everything was fine and they said the oil was fine. To date I have 28,000 miles on the car, when I bought it last July 2006 it had 22,000 (certified vehicle). Being that my new oil change is not into 31,000 miles and August date, I decided to check the oil for the heck of it.
NO OIL IN MOTOR!!
In disgust I called back the dealership and they said that the car must be burning the oil and that just put oil in the car an bring it in during the week.
MY QUESTION IS, after my long update, Does anyone have this problem or did? I took the car to A&S Strauss and I myself put oil in the car. I had a gentlemen at the site take a look to make sure that 2 bottles was okay and not 3. He questioned why it was burning oil and stated that I should not be adding oil to my car.
I have a 2003 Jetta GLS 2.0 engine automatic.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Also, make sure you use the factory (VW or MANN) oil filter instead of the aftermarket oil filters. The factory (MANN) oil filter (which has a bypass valve and a n anti-drainback valve made of steel - rather than the cheaper rubber that the aftermarket filters use) is a critical part of maintaining the proper engine oil pressure. If the proper oil pressure isn't maintained, your engine will consume oil through the exhaust and the crankcase ventilation system - it's a gradual loss which you won't notice until the next time you check your oil.
I refuse to use aftermarket filters on any of my 3 VWs - and that strategy has paid dividends. My 1997 Jetta has over 216,000 miles and doesn't consume any oil.
HTH.
Not being smart..just asking are you sure 4? The last time I put 2 in and the specialist at pep boys said that it was enough....
Today I brought 3 at AS Strauss...The VW service guy told me to get 5w 30 and put it in. I put in two and then went in to the service area to check...on the cap it stated not to over the mark. I wanted to put in 3 but he said that would have been too much. At that point he showed me where the oil should be and said it was perfect.
He suggested that I check the oil every morning to make sure its not burn out.
I am trying to get an appointment on Wednesday with the VW guys. Since it is my first car...I don't want to mess around with it and I am trying to learn what everything is...now I am going to look up "air filter". I had an oil change in April and my next schedule oil change/check is in August or 31,000 miles. right now I have 28,000 and I don't drive much. The guy at AS Strauss stated if I did not go in...I would just have to add oil every so often. This is getting to be stupid...I don't know why the VW services guy did not get it the first 2 times around....
Sorry, if I ask ridiculous questions, just trying to learn as fast as I can.
Thanks for any help!
Sounds like good advice from the VW service guy. Check the oil with the dipstick every day, so you can see how fast it is being consumed. Once you have a good idea of this you can probably reduce the frequency of checking.
Some engines do burn oil. Most manufacturers will claim something like as much as a quart every 1000 miles is acceptable. Anyway, if it does burn oil then the thing to do, as you have been advised, is add it when it starts getting low so that the level is always kept in the acceptable range on the dipstick.
Yep. I have the factory manuals for Golf/Jetta covering both the Mk3 (1993-1999) and Mk4 (1999-early 2005), and the specifications for the 2.0 engines (Mk3 & Mk4) say 4.2 qts.
As a matter of fact, having owned VWs for 25 years (including a 1975 Scirocco and 1987 Golf GT), that amount hasn't changed much over the years.
The 2.0L engine is basically an evolutionary improvement based on a design that dates back to 1973.
As stated in this thread, you probably had 2 quarts in the engine - which is why the engine was still running...
When topping of the oil in your engine, make sure the oil level doesn't go above the area where the dipstick bends...
Thank you very much for the needed advise. I was beginning to think I destroyed my engine
Again, many thanks!
I remembered something that the service guy told me at AS Strauss. He stated that the VW Jetta was/is manufactured in Europe as well as Mexico. He stated the cars that was mfd. in Mexico had trouble with the motor oil burning too much, etc.
Has anyone heard of this or know where I can find this information? Dear dear, hope I did not purchase a :lemon:
thank you.
However, the VIN will NOT tell you the source of every component in your car. VW is a WORLDWIDE company and components are manufactured all over the world.
The original window-sticker usually says where the components were sourced from. There is often a copy of that sticker hidden somwhere (like under trunk carpeting)
I beleive you mentioned that you have a 2003 model year. Most likely, that would have been ASSEMBLED in Mexico.... using parts built elsewhere. (Engine, Xmission... etc)
Also... are you suggesting that consuming some oil means your car is a lemon???? Where did you get that idea from? As long as you check your oil EVERY time you fill with gas, you will be OK. My daughters 2001 Gulf consumes oil and she carries a case of oil in the trunk to top off when it is low.
BEWARE: The more frequently you LET the oilget too low, the faster it will consume oil. It is FARRRR better to check it regularly and top off when needed. The 2 marks on the dipstick are exactly ONE QUART apart... so it is easy to tell how much it needs.
With the oil-sucker, I can change the oil on my VW TDI in about 20 minutes... this includes changing the filter and pouring the old oil into 1-gallon containers for recycling. NOT EVEN A DROP is left on my driveway.
Of-course, the TDI has a drop-in oil-filter element so there is no drippage when it is replaced. A screw-on filter might lose a teaspoon of oil when changed.
Even the VW shop manual tells the dealerships to use an oil-sucker to change the oil. This saves on the time/effort to remove those 14 little screws that hold on the lower cover.
The oil-sucker is also good for changing xmission oil, xfer-case oil, differential-lube, power-steering fluid, brake-fluid.... etc etc.
As a general rule, I check my oil no more than every 750 miles - summer more often. This is a good rule. I think my car burns about a 1/2 to 1 quart every 1000 miles depending on heat and how hard I drive.
I was also told recently that sludge has been an issue on VW engines per VW and they have changed to only synthetic oils. I guess if you plan on keeping your car for a long time, synthetic might be worth the investment. Good luck!
is it worth the lil extra $ on oil changes? i've been told i have noisy lifters and was told to put in 10w-30 to help quiet them down, but others are telling me that is completely false and to use a lighter oil so that it flows quicker (makes sense i think) i am nearing my next oil change would like to see what my options are, should i stay with 10w or go down to 5w?, and should i go synthetic or stay conventional?
if you could lemme know what you think, that would be greatly appreciated
thanks
There are several brands and types out there for sale, just google for oil extractor.
One key is since the system is very fuel efficient, when you do change the filter, you need to either fill it full of fuel (etc) (pre prime, if you will) or vacuum prime the filter once it is partially hooked up to the fuel system supply.
"Volkswagen > A4 Platform > 1999 - 2006
1.9 Liter 4-Cyl. 2V TDI PD Engine Mechanical, Fuel Injection Glow Plug, Engine Code(s): BEW
20 - Components of fuel supply system, removing and installingFuel filter, servicing",
illustration N20-0291
You might want to check this further, in that I have read on web sites in passing, the 06 does NOT have a water separator.
I did mine for a while and found absolutely NO H20!! But then again, I have used Primrose 405C since new.
If you decide to do it, let 100 cm3 fluid to drain into a (clear) glass jar.
If you decide not, then the point and data would in effect be moot.
Fred
I would suggest you concentrate on the condition of the BODY and how well the rest of the vehicle has been maintained.
For example, I beleive the timing-belt change interval on the 2002 TDI is 80,000 miles.... Thus, the Timing belt should have been replaced at least once and perhaps even 2 times by 150,000 miles. (including waterpump, tensionor and other assorted items.)
Also, if the incorrect oil has been used in that engine, that may have shortend its lifespan.
Some quality issue are unseen, i.e.,the body parts are galvanized metal. Upshot: they are more rust resistant than other vehicles such as Honda & Toyota to use examples. This lets VW give a 12 year rust through warranty vs a 3 year for Honda & Toyota. Diesel of course gives an app 36% fuel advantage. Durability of the engine (given a host of modifying variables of course) is specified to 25,000 hours at 80% loading (most TDI's are driven at way lower than 80% loading. So if one can keep the integrity of the body and its parts and keep it CLEAN and free of liaisons with other cars,trees, bridges, curbs etc,
So for example, one can switch to the new bigger bearings (tension er) and longer lasting 100,000 mile timing belt.
please reply
My 2003 is also squeeky in humid weather.
Turn up the radio and ignore it.... it is not a problem.
i have a 2007 jetta , 2.5 gasoline , and wanted to change my oil and filter and stopped cause i could not figure out the filter.
i purchased the filter and its just a paper element w/ no metal housing,so it has to go inside the black plastic housing ,hidden above the black plastic splash guard.i think there are 6 star head screws to remove this.but...........
i dont want to tinker w/ this filter housing til i get some more info.
i think it just screws off to get at the filter,but i want to be sure.
did u find out how yet and would u let me know
gene
Perhaps the most important part is to make certain that the O-ring is installed properly.
I am glad to see that VW has started using these high-quality filters on the gasoline engines. (why purcahse a tin can with puny filter inside when all you really need is the FILTER itslef!)
I was wondering when is the mileage interval on changing the timing belt on a 2002 VW Jetta GLS? Also, I took it in to get it checked out and they said I need to change the water pump at the same time as the timing belt. Is this true? To make matter worse, my oil light seems to always come on at almost exactly 3400 miles. Does anyone have shed some light on this problem.
Thanks
http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/servicecenter/maintenance/en/us/
Gates says to replace at 60,000:
http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=428-1466_web.pdf&folder=- brochure
The independent VW specialist my kid uses also says 60,000. I think the dealer may have said 90,000.
Replacing water pump is kind of a "might as well" thing. If you do it at the same time there is no extra labor, if you don't and it fails later you will have to pay for the labor all over again. BTW, it seems that the cost of timing belt replacement can vary greatly, depending on where you go.
reason being for the water pump is ,sooner or later you'll have to have it done and it saves you on labor costs to do both at the same time.
i had this done in june 2007 at a cost of $535.00. you should spend the extra dollars to do both.
as for the oil light,i dont know what could be the problem.
suggestion? i always use an oil filter w/ a check valve inside.this keeps the oil from returning to the pan.these are purchased at vw or napa store.
this was done by jack metzger vw in bloomsburg,PA
Thus, you will be paying the bulk of the labor all over again to tear it apart.... AND the timingbelt may need to be changed when the waterpump fails because it will most likely be damaged.
Incase you were not aware, if the timingBelt breaks or is damaged by a busted waterpump or pullie - the engine may be seriously damaged when a piston crashes into a valve.
It is best to change the timingBelt, waterpump, tensionors and all pullies while it is torn apart. There are "kits" available which contain all necessarry parts to do the entire job properly.
Almost all modern engines with timingbelts are like this. (It is not a VW-only situation)
i drive a 1999.5 Jetta 2.0L i was thinking bout switching out my old spark plugs and wires for a new set, i've never done them before (bought the car used a few months back and noticed my MPG has dropped so thought why not) i've been told that my model engine works best with NGK spark plugs, the ones that have the 3 grounds/Diodes on it (not sure what they are called) and i'm not too sure how old the wires are but they are OEM
now i was wondering, should i just go to VW and pick up the NGK plugs and OEM wires OR should i opt for something a lil bit better, any suggestions?, a friend of mine told me to get NGK iridium tip plugs and NGK wires that match those plugs (they have wires made for those plugs)
any thoughts are appreciated
thanks
You cannot go wrong with using OEM plugwires and the recommended sparkplugs. (They got it this far!) Volkswagen uses some of the best quality parts in the automobile buisness. (Bosch, NGK, Mann, Garrett)
Some popular places to shop for VW parts online are;.
http://www.worldimpex.com/
http://www.1stvwparts.com/
http://www.germanautoparts.com/
NOTE: Make certain you get the 3-letter engine-code from your engine.... VW was changing engines between 1999 -2001 and there were at least 3 different 2.0L engines during that timeframe. (AEG, AZG, AVH, BBW, BDC, BEV... others?)
Thanks!