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VW Jetta Basic Maintenance Questions (Oil changes, fluids, etc.)



  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 19,825
    The Bentley's technical data for the 06 TDI indicates a water separator.

    "Volkswagen > A4 Platform > 1999 - 2006
    1.9 Liter 4-Cyl. 2V TDI PD Engine Mechanical, Fuel Injection Glow Plug, Engine Code(s): BEW
    20 - Components of fuel supply system, removing and installingFuel filter, servicing",

    illustration N20-0291

    You might want to check this further, in that I have read on web sites in passing, the 06 does NOT have a water separator.

    I did mine for a while and found absolutely NO H20!! But then again, I have used Primrose 405C since new.

    If you decide to do it, let 100 cm3 fluid to drain into a (clear) glass jar.

    If you decide not, then the point and data would in effect be moot.
  • carless2carless2 Posts: 1
    My son is looking at 2002 jetta with 150000 miles on it for 8777.00 Would he be looking at a lot of problems with this many miles? Does the price sound right for this many miles? He has never owned a disel before so we are clueless on what to expect. Thanks to anyone who can and will help us.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A well-maintained TDI engine is rated for about 600,000 miles. There are many folks with over 300,000 miles on their TDI.

    I would suggest you concentrate on the condition of the BODY and how well the rest of the vehicle has been maintained.

    For example, I beleive the timing-belt change interval on the 2002 TDI is 80,000 miles.... Thus, the Timing belt should have been replaced at least once and perhaps even 2 times by 150,000 miles. (including waterpump, tensionor and other assorted items.)

    Also, if the incorrect oil has been used in that engine, that may have shortend its lifespan.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 19,825
    Actually while bpeebles response might seem almost extremely tame, the consequences are indeed the real key issues to what makes the diesel and VW such an overwhelmingly good buy: 1. Keep for a min of 2x the normal (or even abnormal) mileage of most cars 2. associated capital cost savings. 3. repair is FAR cheaper than new or even used vehicle replacement. 4. lower insurance costs for FAR longer.

    Some quality issue are unseen, i.e.,the body parts are galvanized metal. Upshot: they are more rust resistant than other vehicles such as Honda & Toyota to use examples. This lets VW give a 12 year rust through warranty vs a 3 year for Honda & Toyota. Diesel of course gives an app 36% fuel advantage. Durability of the engine (given a host of modifying variables of course) is specified to 25,000 hours at 80% loading (most TDI's are driven at way lower than 80% loading. So if one can keep the integrity of the body and its parts and keep it CLEAN and free of liaisons with other cars,trees, bridges, curbs etc, :) 500,000 to 1,000,000 miles are indeed within the realm of the possible.

    So for example, one can switch to the new bigger bearings (tension er) and longer lasting 100,000 mile timing belt.
  • homerjr5homerjr5 Posts: 3
    i own a 2003 jetta gls. the car is doing great for the wife and i. only thing is the suspension sounds like it needs to be lubricated. does anyone know of the correct spots to do this, and is white grease ok?
    please reply
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The rubber bushings in the suspension tend to get squeeky in humid weather. Since it is very hard to get any lubrication into the squeeky areas, there is not a whole lot you can do about it.

    My 2003 is also squeeky in humid weather.

    Turn up the radio and ignore it.... it is not a problem.
  • kevin40kevin40 Posts: 1
    does anyone know where the oil filter is located in the 2007 jetta?
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    My brother bought a used car that was fine after he got it. The 1st time he went to change the spark plugs he broke one of them getting it out, he should have vacuumed and blown any loose bits of ceramic clear of the plug hole before he finished removing it but he is pretty sure that a piece of ceramic insulator from the plug got inside the cylinder. Now every time that he puts gas in the car, he has to add a quart of oil. Often, things like this are why people sell cars.
  • This is my first forum. Forgive me if not proper ettiquette. I lost my owners manuals in a move.My first question...How do I measure oil level? The dipstick has a yellow dot, orange dot, and hatch marks. Which do i use for proper amount? Tanks for your help!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Use the hatch marks to measure the oil level. The top of the hatch mark is the full mark.
  • yo kevin,
    i have a 2007 jetta , 2.5 gasoline , and wanted to change my oil and filter and stopped cause i could not figure out the filter.
    i purchased the filter and its just a paper element w/ no metal housing,so it has to go inside the black plastic housing ,hidden above the black plastic splash guard.i think there are 6 star head screws to remove this.but...........
    i dont want to tinker w/ this filter housing til i get some more info.
    i think it just screws off to get at the filter,but i want to be sure.
    did u find out how yet and would u let me know
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It took me 37 seconds to search the internet and locate this step-by-step procedure with photos.

    Perhaps the most important part is to make certain that the O-ring is installed properly.

    I am glad to see that VW has started using these high-quality filters on the gasoline engines. (why purcahse a tin can with puny filter inside when all you really need is the FILTER itslef!)
  • Hello All,

    I was wondering when is the mileage interval on changing the timing belt on a 2002 VW Jetta GLS? Also, I took it in to get it checked out and they said I need to change the water pump at the same time as the timing belt. Is this true? To make matter worse, my oil light seems to always come on at almost exactly 3400 miles. Does anyone have shed some light on this problem.

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    VW schedule says to "check" timing belt every 40,000 miles for the 2.0 engine (if that is what you have):

    Gates says to replace at 60,000: brochure

    The independent VW specialist my kid uses also says 60,000. I think the dealer may have said 90,000.

    Replacing water pump is kind of a "might as well" thing. If you do it at the same time there is no extra labor, if you don't and it fails later you will have to pay for the labor all over again. BTW, it seems that the cost of timing belt replacement can vary greatly, depending on where you go.
  • i just had my sons 2002 gls jetta , timing belt changed and also the water pump.
    reason being for the water pump is ,sooner or later you'll have to have it done and it saves you on labor costs to do both at the same time.
    i had this done in june 2007 at a cost of $535.00. you should spend the extra dollars to do both.
    as for the oil light,i dont know what could be the problem.
    suggestion? i always use an oil filter w/ a check valve inside.this keeps the oil from returning to the pan.these are purchased at vw or napa store.

    this was done by jack metzger vw in bloomsburg,PA
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You can also look at it this way.... If you do NOT change the waterpump while the engine is torn apart and they are in there.... The waterpump will NOT last another 60K miles.

    Thus, you will be paying the bulk of the labor all over again to tear it apart.... AND the timingbelt may need to be changed when the waterpump fails because it will most likely be damaged.

    Incase you were not aware, if the timingBelt breaks or is damaged by a busted waterpump or pullie - the engine may be seriously damaged when a piston crashes into a valve.

    It is best to change the timingBelt, waterpump, tensionors and all pullies while it is torn apart. There are "kits" available which contain all necessarry parts to do the entire job properly.

    Almost all modern engines with timingbelts are like this. (It is not a VW-only situation)
  • Hey,

    i drive a 1999.5 Jetta 2.0L i was thinking bout switching out my old spark plugs and wires for a new set, i've never done them before (bought the car used a few months back and noticed my MPG has dropped so thought why not) i've been told that my model engine works best with NGK spark plugs, the ones that have the 3 grounds/Diodes on it (not sure what they are called) and i'm not too sure how old the wires are but they are OEM

    now i was wondering, should i just go to VW and pick up the NGK plugs and OEM wires OR should i opt for something a lil bit better, any suggestions?, a friend of mine told me to get NGK iridium tip plugs and NGK wires that match those plugs (they have wires made for those plugs)

    any thoughts are appreciated

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The NGK iridium tip plugs are OUTRAGESOULY priced and will not give you any measaurable gain. (The are good on highly modified engines where the spark can be "blown out" by the combustion pressures.... certainly NOT a volkswagen engine!)

    You cannot go wrong with using OEM plugwires and the recommended sparkplugs. (They got it this far!) Volkswagen uses some of the best quality parts in the automobile buisness. (Bosch, NGK, Mann, Garrett)

    Some popular places to shop for VW parts online are;.

    NOTE: Make certain you get the 3-letter engine-code from your engine.... VW was changing engines between 1999 -2001 and there were at least 3 different 2.0L engines during that timeframe. (AEG, AZG, AVH, BBW, BDC, BEV... others?)
  • After a certain VIN, the fuel filter does not have water separator, indicating confidence in commercial fuel supply. Filter is a paper cartridge type, kit with gaskets. Have 1 qt new fuel ready before starting filter change. First place rags under & around can to minimize spill. Four nipples, remove clips & discard (replace with screw-drive hose clamps). Press two spring clips at back of can toward rear of car and slide can up & out. Undo 5 screws to remove top. Empty fuel into glass jar (1 qt). Use two flat-blade screwdrivers to lever out the cartridge by its neck flange (~1-1/2"dia), it will slide up and away from the core (core has 5-circle gasket at top). Verify can is empty and slide new cartridge onto core. Replace all gaskets supplied with kit. Prime filter: fill can with new fuel to about 3/8" below rim, any more will just overflow in next step. Replace can top and 5 screws - note the spring at bottom of core will resist this. Re-install can to car and connect hoses. Loosen air bleed screw at top of can maybe two turns. Clear engine except for rags (keep away from belts), start car, tighten air-bleed ( it will leak if you don't), run engine a few minutes to assure continuity of fuel. Make sure all screws are tight to prevent leakage. This worked well for me, took ~1 hr the first time. Local fuel is good - no water in the jar. Change filter at 20,000 mi (30,000 km) max or engine performance may suffer.
  • I am considering purchasing a 2008 Jetta. I've been reading recommendations in this forum to have the oil changed at a VW dealer, not at the quicky lube. What does your dealer charge for an oil change?

  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Changing oil at the dealer is to document that it was done,etc.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I've paid about $50. Our first change was free, from a different dealer, invoice had price of about $65.
  • i just changed the oil and filter on my 2007 wolfsburg at 4900 miles.
    i called the vw dealer in my area(n.e. PA) and they quoted me a price of around $80.
    VW requires castrol 5w40 fully synthetic.
    i also save my purchase slips to verify my oil and filter change.
    i can do this change for $60
  • Thanks for sharing this information, folks.

    I just signed a contract on an '08 Jetta this morning. The dealer tells me $125 for an oil change using synthetic oil. I believe they also wash the car, rotate tires and perform some safety checks too. Still seems awfully expensive to me.

    He also said they are recommending a change every 10,000 miles rather than 3,000 or 5,000.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Yes, because it requires full synthetic it only needs to be changed every 10,000 miles or 12 months. They have some sort of special break-in oil initially (at least I think that is the reason for the shorter interval for initial change) and this is to be changed at 5000 miles.

    Then, I think just to get on a 10,000 mi interval, the second change is also called for after 5000 additional miles (at 10,000). After that is is 10,000 miles (or 12 mo.).

    If you are concerned about the service costs, ask them for the "ala-cart" price to just do what the VW schedule requires each time, rather than saying, for example "do 20,000 mi service). Also if you have other dealers in your area you can check and see if they have better pricing.
  • We bought a Wolfsburg this summer and are ready for the 10k change difficult was the oil filter to change? I haven't been under the car yet to see where it is, so I'm hoping for good access :D
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You do not say which engine you have but most VWs can be fully oil-changed from under the hood without getting underneath.

    I can change oil and filter on my 1.9L TDI in about 20 minutes without spilling a drop. (Oil Filter is a drop-in cartradge!)

    My daughters 2.0L Golf takes about 30 minutes under the hood.

    My other daugherts 2.0L NewBeetle takes about 40 minutes because EVERYTHING is so tight under the hood so I need to push a bunch of hoses out of the way to get to the oil-filter.
  • Hey guys,

    i've got a 1999 Jetta, 2.0L, i do alot of city driving,which i am told is very hard on a car, would it be beneficial for me to switch my oil to synthetic? people have been telling me that if i do that i am forever stuck with synthetic,and if i switch back to conventional, i will destroy the engine *i wouldnt mind having to put syn in it all the time, if its a benefit* also been told that my car will leak like no tomorrow becaue they flow differently, just wondering if it is worth the extra 30+ bucks to have it done each oil change and if any of those risks are common factors when switching or if they happen in rare cases.

    also, how long can i go between changes on synthetic compared to the regular dino stuff :-P

    any thoughts are appreciated
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I think you have been given a lot of misinformation. You can switch and switch back any time you want.

    Is your car leaking oil now? If not then I don't see how the synthetic is going to create any new leakage :confuse: .

    My somewhat arbitrary policy, if there are no warranty issues, is to follow OCI of 5000 miles/6 mo. with conventional or 10,000 mi/12 mo. with synthetic. So since the cost ratio is about 2:1 also, there really is no net cost to going with synthetic.
  • how many quarts of oil does a 2001 jetta 1.8t take.i would like to do a change on it i just bought it used .
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