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Comments
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Dave
LOL...always the very last resort, RTFM!
Although the manual didn't help in this case, and I don't have specific knowledge of the CJ7 ignition switch, is it not possible to remove the switch from the column and take it to a locksmith to have a key cut.
It's something that can be easily done, although as it takes longer than just copying an existing key you can expect to pay a little more.
Get a couple of spares cut at the same time as well.
In response to your post, I did read the manual. It is where I discovered (and at online help sites like this one) that one needs the key to turn it to the "on" position to be able to remove the cylinder from the column. I am trying to find another way that may include disassembling the column. I did so to the point where I was unable to go any farther since the ignition cylinder seems to be preventing the column sleeve on the Jeep from coming off to expose the "guts." I might add that I have an 86 that seems to be almost identical to the 77, and it too requires the key to remove the ignition cylinder.
Thanks for your help.
Dave
No offence intended Dave; it was the way you wrote it that made me smile.
Is it possible to remove the complete column? If so then take that to the locksmith. If not then have the locksmith come to you.
That's not as fanciful as it seems as locksmiths regularly make housecalls as a normal part of their business.
No problem. The main issue is that my teenage grandson feels badly enough about losing the only key and now he has to spend most of his Christmas money (that he was saving for auto insurance, etc.) for a locksmith to come and make a new key. I was just hoping there was a less expensive way.
Dave
Dave
I have a suspicion that when I push down on the steering wheel, it is pushing the spring loaded retaining disk down to contact the horn button in the column, but I can't recreate the honking effect when the column is torn down. It may be a grounding issue at that point.
Any ideas why it works that way and not by pushing down on the horn button?
Dave :confuse: :confuse:
Thanks for all your help,
Dave
Thanks for any suggestions or advice.
Dave
Are you saying that the windwing is one piece? It appears that the shaft that allows the top of the wing to pivot is broken off from the frame. Is the post (pivot point) originally attached to the wing or the frame?
I only ask because it appears that the top of the wing has a hole where the post would fit but is missing. It is difficult to tell (because of the rubber molding around the frame) if the pivot post was originally coming out of the frame or the wing.
Dave
Thanks
Tried oil, heating it with a torch, prying it, pulling it and banging it with a hammer... not in that order.
Has anyone had similar problems removing their sensor?
Any advice is much appreciated. thanks.
Also, here is a picture of the existing sensor;
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Drivetrain/Jeep...
Coincedentally, the new sensor I bought which I was told would work in my jeep model looks like;
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-inf...
Don't know if the difference means it won't work for sure... But I'm not even to that point yet.
YJ Air Control Valves
I've never done one on a YJ, but assuming it's the same as the later models (the engines are similar) the difference between the sensors you have may be due to there being different sensors for the 4.0 auto and manual, and the 2.5.
Unfortunately those links don't work for me.
I'm assuming you have the 4.0 auto as the CPS on that one is located in a hole in the bellhousing, whereas the others are mounted externally, secured with two bolts and easily removed.
The answer to getting it out is not to worry about destroying the old sensor. Remove it in pieces if necessary. Drill it, grind it, use a Dremel for delicate cutting, even use a chisel if necessary. Also, it will help to have someone hold a shop-vac to it as you work to stop any debris dropping into the bellhousing.
Good luck.
Theres very little room to get at and work around the sensor.
However, it may well be necessary to either drop the transmission, or possibly move it back a few inches to gain access to the CPS from inside the bellhousing.
i've got a 1993 wrangler and the clutch is starting to cause problems fairly regularly.
sometimes when i push the clutch in when the engine is running it doesn't let my put it into gear, or when driving, change from gear to gear. it's starting to become a hassle when driving around as i've ended pulling over a few times just to change gears.. then having to start again from first..
sometimes it helps if i pump the clutch a couple times, or if there are a few more revs.
i think it might be the clutch fluid leaking, but i'm not sure.
any help at all???
I would check 3 spots as a first step for leakage: on firewall inside the cab by the clutch pedal, on the firewall in the engine bay by the master cylinder, and on the hydraulic line by the bleed valve. And, as long as you are under the car, check for leakage where the clutch hydraulic line goes into the bell housing. Or, you may simply be low on fluid.
If there is no sign of a leak, you may need either a new master cylinder (watch what you buy; I've replaced mine 4 times due to faulty manufacturing), or a new slave cyllinder. To replace the former is a piece of cake. For the later, it requires you to remove the transmission, so you may as well replace the clutch assembly at the same time.
Good luck,
Steve
I agree.
Well, this is what I was forced to do to try and get this dam 2" plastic sensor out...
Set up a come along on a scaffold to winch the dam thing out !!!!
After a few seconds, of 4000lbs torque...
So now I'm forced to try and drill the remaining half of the sensor out, which is EXTREMELY difficult due to the CS's positoning...
It seems nearly impossible to distinquish the remaining sensor piece from the aluminum of the bell housing...
MY QUESTION IS:
What does the Crankshaft Position Sit in? Whats underneath it?
Is it sitting in a solid chamber, or is it open underneath?
Can I drill right through the bottom without damaging anything underneath it - I mean obviously you don't want to go to far past the sensor below it - BUT if the bottom of the sensor is sensing something resting against the bottom of it, then drilling through would destroy the mechanisim... If it is sensing on the side of the sensor then drilling through the bottom would be safe...
Anyone following me on this?
I'm about to shoot myself in the head... or give up and ">buy a horse.
The CPS senses from the bottom, which will be very close to the flexplate. So close that a new sensor will have a thin paper spacer stuck to the bottom and the paper must contact the flexplate when it's installed. When the flexplate rotates it will tear the paper off leaving the correct clearance.
The flexplate has slots in it which the CPS senses to register the position and speed of the flexplate as it spins.
It's important the the CPS sits square and snug in it's hole. If it's cocked over slightly or too far from the flexplate it won't read correctly.
As you're having difficulty distinguishing between the remains of the sensor and the bellhousing I'm concerned that you'll end up enlarging the mounting hole.
If you're unhappy now it will be a lot worse if you have to buy and install a new bellhousing as well.
You really need to be able to tap or punch out the remaining part of the CPS, and you can't do that while the flexplate is directly below it. I think your choices now are either to remove the engine, or to remove the transmission.
A third option may be to move the transmission back a couple of inches away from the flexplate, but you may still have access issues.
Whatever you decide, give the remains of the sensor a good soaking in PB Blaster or Kroil (not WD40) before you make the final extraction.
Good luck!
From the limited information given I can only guess that you've either damaged the transmission or the cooling system. The fluid could be either transmission fluid or coolant and the noise could either be the fan or the transmission.
Why don't you have a closer look at it so you can describe the color of the fluid and locate where it's coming from.
My old '48 flat fender had an adjustment bolt behind the pedal that pushed it up, but I don't see one on this critter. By the way, I originally thought it was an issue with worn pads on the front, shoes on the back, or air in the line, but that turned out not to be the case.
Dave
Did you drill a hole in the pedal arm to attach the spring? Also, the pedal goes within an inch of the floor with the power boost, is there a way to limit it so it engages earlier and doesn't go so far down?
Dave
Dave
Thanks
Dave
It sounds like a loud bang from the rear but cant tell where and I cant always recreate it.
Any ideas? Would there be any signs if I looked underneath?
thx
Anyone know the innards of a Warn winch? I have some technical questions that involves both electric and mechanical.
Or... if someone has a better suggestion which forum or other site to post this question, limme know and thanks.
The parts lists and repair manuals can usually be found with the aid of Google.
It will go in one direction but very intermittent in the other. No apparent corrosion. Any wire connectors (there aren't any except for solenoid which checks out ok) look like new. If i power one terminal directly from a battery...too hard to explain here unless I know someone knows these winches..
I have very specific knowledge of some of the heavier winches, but until now none about yours.
The manual and parts list is on the first page of a simple Google search and you'll find it here: Warn A2500
To answer your first question, unlike on some of the heavier duty models your winch motor has only two connections.
It therefore reverses direction by means of the solenoid reversing the polarity of the current supplied to it.
If you use a multi-meter on the winch terminals you'll see that the terminal showing positive when the winch is spooling in will become negative when you spool out, and the same reversal applies to the negative terminal.
The fact that the motor works correctly in one direction indicates it's basically sound, but there is the remote possibility that one of the brushes has a weak spring or is loose in its holder causing it to lift and break contact occasionally when turning in the least used direction.
Much more likely is an issue with the solenoid (I know you said you ruled it out), or the hand controller.
I do have that pdf thanks. I studied late into the night, and managed to find some info that i wasn't aware of. As u say, polarity is controlled thru the solenoid. But what I didn't know is that there is some form of shunt within the solenoid, and this somehow works as a brake. I wish i could find a schematic, i was on the trail but the guys were chatting back in yr 2000 and now their schematic of retrofitting 4 Ford solenoids to do the job that this solenoid (contactor is Warn's name) does. I also found out it is actually a forklift part. Thru the dlr it is about 150. But 104 was mentioned USDollars i think, 10 years ago. I think I will take it apart and see if there is anything obvious i can see to fix. If not (aND after confirming the brushes are free, thanks for that, and altho u said rare, I almost suspect that might be the case as I couldn't believe how much - what looked like carbon, debris i found in the winch when i took it apart. I never did find the brushes, not in any conventional shape i am used to looking for anyway)
One thing it does tho when i know it won't reverse for me, is it will wind out (it's on a snowplow blade) and instead of stopping when you let off the rocker handlbar mtd switch, it rolls all the way to the ground. That is what that shunt circuitry prevents when it's working the right way. But i wonder if a brush was sticking, maybe it too could allow the winch to spool out without braking. I think the shunt works electrically, countering bewteen directions, so if a brush was sticking, the shunt wouldn't work right?
What do you think this shunt consists of? I need the winch, it hasn't quit snowing here in 3 days and I am getting snowed in to the point the plow will be in over it's head. I have been manually lifting the blade but my back has been poorly lately and that isn't helping it much.
I also have a Champion I bought at a good price that i was thinking of putting on if need be but it requires a whole dif mount. But i wonder if i can use the control it came with, on my motor? You know what I got. Now the Champion has a handheld controller that has 4 wires, 2 red 2 black. One set goes to the battery and the other obviously to the two winch terminals. I guess this handheld is a big sw capable of high amps in lieu of solenoid use. I wonder if it will work on my winch tho by hooking the other set of red/blk to the two terminals on my winch? I didn't want to assume as I don't know if winches are all grded the same etc.
Yours is a very basic winch and AFAIK there's no electrical means of holding the load.
Heavier duty units have a brake for this purpose which can be overridden by the power of the motor to power out.
Unless yours is dramatically overloaded, the design of the gear mechanism ensures that the load can't overpower the gearing, and when under load it must be powered out.
If your blade continues to lower when the switch is released it means it's continuing down under power.
It's not the gears slipping because if they were worn then either it wouldn't raise up, or it would slip back down once it was raised.
The fault here is either a sticking solenoid/contactor or the remote switch doing the same thing.
Finally, if the motor casing was full of carbon debris it doesn't bode well for the length of life remaining in the motor.
The motor has no internal replaceable parts that I can see, and if the solenoid/contactor is as expensive as you say, it may be time to start looking for a new winch, or maybe try to find one that's mechanically broken but electricaly ok.
So this is a bit confusing.
Where is all the carbon from you think? i thought it was from brushes, but admit I am a bit out of my league with winches. Do you think my Champion switch will damage the Warn? I think that it will work. It will at least rule out either the solenoid and handlebar switch.
This winch has only had light duty its whole life. Snowplowing for 6 years, but has cycled in and out many times of course, but only a foot of line at a time. Only twice have i used it to winch something really heavy. Do u have any idea the life expectancy of a winch? I figure this one owes me still. A lot.
If it's merely an on/off switch, then the Champion winch must change direction mechanically.
If it's the former than you should be able to use the Champion switch to bypass the solenoid/contactor on your Warn, as long as the Champion winch motor is rated the same as the Warn, i.e. as long as the switch cables are heavy duty enough.
It should certainly be ok to use without a load for test purposes anyway.
As for the Warn unspooling under an 80lb load, if it's not being powered down then either the gear teeth are slipping or the clutch is disengaging.
I agree.
I know the gears are not slipping, I know this for certain. But if the clutch is disengaging how come when it doesn't, it will wind back in no problem? Like I say, i know ahead of time every single it won't wind back in, because of thaat runon it does winding out. If it runson, it won't wind back in, biut if it stops proper with the brake and holds the blade, it will wind back in each and every time.
Because when the clutch doesn't disengage of its own volition the winch works normally, therefore it can be powered in or out.
When the clutch is disengaged, either manually or through failure, then the motor is disconnected from the gearing and can neither power in or out.
Again, this is normal and as designed. The usual reason for manually disengaging the clutch is to be able to reel out a length of cable (many feet), to reach an attachment point.
The question you should be asking is "Why does it sometimes disengage of its own accord?"
The answer to that will be found when you strip down the gear end of the winch.
I think you'll either find wear or damage to parts #3 and #4, possibly a weak or broken clutch spring #16, or it may be that the drive shaft #14 and/or the parts it engages with have started to round out and it only engages intermittently
But I still think the OEM solenoid has a shunt function that electrically brakes the winch. I know u said they only do that on big winches, but at this point it is the only thing that makes sense. It is working consistently now in and out, except that it free spools out like before when i knew it wouldn't reel back in. Except that now it reels back in every time.
The clutch lock (if u want to free spool) is on the right side of winch and has distinct clunk engage or disengage position. It locks readily and holds every time i manual swing the lever, so i am quite sure that internally the clutch is working. Unless there are two clutch mechanisms inside? One that works on the motor and this levered one? The schematic doesn't show that so i still feel there is some form of shunt circuit which prevents the wincch from unspooling with just the weight of the plow.
Also, swing that lever unlocks the drum and rolls out super easy...could use a finger, but when it is powered out, but free wheels to the grd, that is not easy, it requires a lot of force, as in the weight of that blade at least. As it is turning the motor. Once blade stops, tho, it is hard to pull out more. I will check that today come to think of it. Lasyt fall i had it apart and didn;'t see a problem with the driveshaft or that spring. If there is a shunt thing, what we know now is that the Champion does not have that built into its switch.
What is procedure to turn winch with a battery? I have tried and get inconsistent results. The other day I hooked battery to a grd bolt on frame, then pos to Ter#1 on the winch. It worked for a second and stopped, never to get it to do it again.
So i was skeptical the Champion sw would work. But it does. So what is normal procedure to manually power winch off the battery? Pos to one terminal and negative to the other terminal? And reverse that to reverse winch right?
I have taken the solenoid off and today I will take it apart and hopefully see some points that just need filing or something else obvious. I wish i knew how these shunt systems work. Do you?