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Dodge Grand Caravan Engine Problems

nathangodwin75nathangodwin75 Member Posts: 6
in Dodge
Hi i'm new at these discusion boards but
i need help i have 2002 grand caravan sport w/3.3 liter it will shut down about 20 min. after it's up to temp. let me tell you tho, changed crank sensor fuel pump and filter checked for spark while not wanting to crank and it got fuel to the injectors also i have check the relys and fuses they seem to be fine please any one had this problem
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Comments

  • flavifeflavife Member Posts: 20
    Does anyone have any information on this TSB 09-008-06 regarding oil filter update. I just bought a new Town & Country with the 3.3L engine and compared the new filter to my 99 Caravan 3.3L filters and the 2007 is much smaller so I am very interested in this TSB.

    Thanks,
    Frank
  • pyoung215pyoung215 Member Posts: 1
    Hello: I am new to this discussion forum as well. I do not know how to post my own question. Please advice me how to do this as well as answer my question, please. I brought a 1995 dodge grand caravan used. The guy that I brought the vechicle from told me about this engine light that is on and that it comes on every certain number of miles, exactly what does this means? Please e-mail me back at py215@excite.com. Thanks for your help in advance.
  • bteclawbteclaw Member Posts: 2
    Help.

    My '04 Grand Caravan SXT 3.8L is running a little rough and when I fill the gas tank, the engine will stall at the next stop light. It re starts and idles a little rough but no more stalling....until I fill the gas tank. I've replaced the plugs and filters. Any ideas as to what is going on with my van would be greatly appreciated.
  • playtimeplaytime Member Posts: 12
    Have you read your owners manual about the check engine light?Does your check engine light come on for a period of maybe one day or when your done filling up with gas? If your check engine light comes on it can mean that the computor sense's you have gotten bad gas or you have left the engine running while filling up your gas tank. This confuses the computor and takes it a while to reset itself into thinking the gas is not bad and its ok. Mine being a 2005 states this in the owners manual about the bad gas and leaving the gas cap off while the engine is running. This can cause a rough engine and also it can cause stalling. I would contact your service manager at your local dealership and ask him or even the assitant manager what he thinks. I do know that Chysler is telling people with this problem to change sparks plugs to a different type but I can not remember which ones whether copper or not.My dealer installed new plugs-one new spark spug wire and reflashed the computor and its fine now. The reflashing of the computor resets it to the original setting. Contact your service manager they normally are nice people and will help you figure things out along with telling you if this is a past or present issue with your vechical. I wish I could help more cheers
  • gabhanjacisagabhanjacisa Member Posts: 19
    1998 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.1L
    Oil changed about 1,500 miles ago, so crankcase is full. Went driving in the mountains of NC yesterday. Oil light would briefly come on a couple of occasions after a good hour or two of driving winding, mountainous roads, whenever I stopped. Raced the engine briefly, it would go away. Then would idle with no problem. Drove 4 hours to mountains, 4 hours back home, drove today in town, no oil light.

    Question: would altitude have an effect on the oil light possibly coming on? We were, at most, a mile above sea level. I can't figure this out.
  • newfeenewfee Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan and we just replaced the fuel pump and of course filter. Now it acts like it wants to shut off when I leave up on the gas. The rpm's go up but it won't kick in. Can any one help???? Thank you...
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Sounds to me like the oil pump might be acting up and it could get worse. Usually, if these things fail, they do so immediately without prior warning. However, if yours is warning you... heed it!

    Have you had any problems with it since then?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • newfeenewfee Member Posts: 3
    I am not sure what it is. Like I said we replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine for about 2 weeks and now I loose power and it jerks. And when I let off the gas it acts asthough it is running out of gas. (I am 100% its not out of gas). But it really jerks....
  • newfeenewfee Member Posts: 3
    Also does anyone know how to change the 3 rear spark plugs in a 2000 dodge grand caravan. 3.8 I can't afford to have it done at a garage...
  • maryh3maryh3 Member Posts: 263
    Had my first repair on my 3.8L 2000 T&C at 167,000 miles. It was a fuel pump. When they did this they also replaced my fuel filter and spark plugs. Perhaps you should have the spark plugs changed too. Mine runs so smoothly now - wish I did it a year or two ago, or at least have them regapped.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    My guess would be that the engine seized up. I don't think the engine computer would prevent it from cranking over.

    The oil light on the dash is, I believe, just a oil pressure indicator (not an oil level indicator). The pressure threshold for turning on the light is pretty low. So if you were driving the car for a while with low oil pressure, you could very well have done some serious damage to the engine.

    Sorry.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    I have to agree. If the oil pump was not working and you put that many miles on it, it could have easily seized. The temperature would likely not rise perceptibly if the coolant system was still working.

    An easy way to determine if the engine is seized would be to put a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt and try to turn the engine. If you cannot get it to turn, that puppy is a goner.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rossiniarossinia Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan. On a trip recently, the oil light came on. We stopped at the first exit and, thinking it was low on oil, added oil. The light went out so we continued on our way. A few miles down the road, the light came on again so we stopped again. Being almost 100 miles from home and facing an enormous tow bill, we began calling around for advice. Two separate mechanics stopped at two different times and and both suggested separately that it could be that the oil filter was probably clogged. We were near an auto parts store and replaced the oil filter. The oil light went out again so we carried on our way. A mile or two down the interstate, the oil light came on again and this time the engine completely stopped so we coasted into a parking lot at an exit. The engine will not even crank now. The temperature of the engine never got hot, it did not make any loud noises or anything. Does anyone know if this vehicle's computer has the capability of shutting down the engine in case of a problem like this before the engine seizes up? If it's just the oil pump or something, I would be willing to fix it, but if the whole engine is seized, it would be very costly. Thanks for your help!
  • kovwomankovwoman Member Posts: 1
    I HVAE A 1992 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN that when u hit the gas it feels like its missing any ideas on what to check
  • cdl2008cdl2008 Member Posts: 1
    2004 3.3 Grd Caravan with 49,800 kms. Has had regular oil changes and checkups. Mechanics have always advised the engine is fine. Recently the engine light started turning on periodically, then turns off. When driving slowly around (25 mph / 50 km) the acceleration is sluggish; when pressing accelerator the engine hestitates - jerks, then starts to run better at higher speeds. No problems when coasting - problem occurs only when accelerating slowly. Works fine when you give it lots of gas. Before I take it into the garage, any ideas on what the problem could be?
  • dbarockdbarock Member Posts: 1
    I am getting a

    P0002
    Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit
    Range/Performance

    Fault code.

    Does anybody know what the fix could be?

    Thanks!
  • sharpergnomesharpergnome Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out about this issue I know it is a year old but having the same issue now.

    Thanks to whom ever...
  • jerry69jerry69 Member Posts: 1
    my 2000 caravan oil icon lights up and door chime starts ding-a-linging when I slow to a stop. Increasing gas slightly.......puts all back to normal. ?????What's wrong??? Can I increase the idle speed on this vehicle???
  • hemi1006hemi1006 Member Posts: 1
    I just experienced the same warning light and alarm on my 2000 Grand Caravan. I immediately checked the oil level and found it low nearly 2 quarts. The kids have been driving and filling-up this vehicle and not checking the oil level. After topping off the oil, this did not correct the problem, so I changed the oil and filter. It was overdue for a change by about 2 months. When replacing the oil and filter I added a quart of Lucas Stop Leak Oil Treatment, which is designed for older engines that use or burn oil. I've been running it for a couple of days now and no low oil pressure alarm. I'm hoping that this worked. If not I will post an update. Good luck.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    2 quarts of oil seems to be alot of oil to lose. It is very well possible that the oil pan and/or valve cover gaskets are leaking. The stop leak stuff is not a real fix for the problem and is not good for the engine.

    We had the valve cover and oil pan gaskets replaced at around 100K on our 01 DGC EX w/3.8L engine. It wasn't burning oil, but I noticed it was down about a half quart of oil right before oil changes. Since I was changing the oil myself, I was able to see oil on the engine block around the valve cover gaskets. No more oil leaks and the oil level is still full before oil change.
  • sknutsonsknutson Member Posts: 1
    Dodge Grand Caravan, 2003
    shuts off by itself and will not start back up. Relay clicks but the starter never cranks over. Noticed that the EATX SAFETY SHUT DOWN RELAY got hot and replace that. Then replaced the ignition switch. Starter shouldn't be the issue since that would not shut off the Van. Sometime I can go out and start it up but it soon dies and will not turn over. Just noticed that the EATX SAFETY SHUT DOWN RELAY was getting warm as I was turning the key to strt the engine. The starter/ignition rely clicks but like I said that's as far as it goes. No other relays get warm or hot... Sounds like a ton of people have had the same problem but for some reason, the actual solution that worked does not get posted... Does Dodge have an IT guy hack in and remove the cure from blogs and forums???
  • kosmo5kosmo5 Member Posts: 6
    I am having a similar issue, replaced the pump and filter and now the car doesn't want to go when you give it gas. Also, the idle is rough. Did you ever get this figured out?
  • kosmo5kosmo5 Member Posts: 6
    The fuel pump went out and it was replaced along with the fuel filter. The van ran pretty good for about a week or so and then it started chugging sometimes like it was going to run out of gas. Then when I would press on the gas enough to make the transmission shift down, the rpm's would raise but the van wouldn't go any faster. It also now has a rough idle and the idle speed appears to be high. Has anyone had this problem or knows what a possible solution might be? Thanks.
  • kosmo5kosmo5 Member Posts: 6
    I experienced this exact same thing and it was the oil pressure switch. Easy to replace and it it located on the side of the oil filter.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    I would first test the fuel pressure in order to rule out fuel supply; there should be a fitting on the fuel injector rail, similar to that of a valve stem on a tire, to which a pressure gauge can be connected.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kosmo5kosmo5 Member Posts: 6
    What should the pressure be? Could it be the fuel pump is bad?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    I cannot recall; I want to say it is something like 40psi. It could be a continuing problem with the pump, but it could also be something that is restricting flow (the conditions you described are high-demand situations for fuel). You would need to observe the fuel pressure under varying engine speeds and loads. In normal operation, the pressure should be constant.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kosmo5kosmo5 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the advice, I will give it a try.
  • kosmo5kosmo5 Member Posts: 6
    Could this also be an issue with the catalytic converter? Is there a way to test this to see if it is clogged?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    It's possible - anything affected by flow volume could be the source: air intake, spark plug wires, exhaust, fuel. Air intake and spark plug wires are pretty easy to test (take a look at your air filter and check resistance in the wires w/ ohmmeter), but I don't know about the exhaust.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • cassie521cassie521 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I am posting this for my dad he is not to good with computers. He has a 99 Dodge Grandcaravan. Lately his check engine light has been flashing on and off mostly when he presses the gas and then it idles rough. He was wondering if anyone has any ideas on what this could be. It doesnt stay on long enough to have the code read I guess. He recently tried to have all the spark plugs and wires changed but 2 of the spark plugs were stuck I dont know if that matters and also lately the air bag light flashes I dont know if this is a coincidence or has something to do with all of it. Would needing an oil change cause the light to come on. Any info you can offer would be great! Thanks.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    No, needing an oil change would not cause the CEL to come on.

    First thing you need to do is take it somewhere (Autozone?) and have 'em read the OBD-II codes.
  • proherbproherb Member Posts: 1
    '97 grand caravan 3.8 - Started off being a problem starting sometimes and sometimes not. Then turned into shutting down occasionally while driving. Now it cranks but doesn't want to start. I have power from the battery to the pcm, but from the pcm to the coil, I have nothing. Also, I have continuity from the coil to the pcm harness. I have checked all fuses, and relays were tested and check out okay. I have replaced the pcm and have the same problem. Is there something that needs to done with the computer before it is installed? I bought it from autozone and it is supposed to be pre-programmed. Lost in Texas.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    edited February 2010
    Let me know if you figure this one out, as I have the same problem; Mine is a '98 DGC 3.8L AWD. It has never shut down while driving, but it usually will not start. When it does not start, symptoms are the same as yours: nothing controlled by the Automatic Shutdown circuit receives power (coil, fuel injectors, fuel pump). I am leaning toward a bad BCM (Body Control Module) or the connection to it but have not yet tested or replaced it. The repair manual I have states that the ASD circuit is controlled by input from the crank and camshaft position sensors. I tested power to each and it was good, so I went ahead and replaced them with no change.

    I tried starting it last night after having given up on it for five months and it fired right up (less than two cranks) as though I had only started it the previous day. I drove it around for about 30 minutes to toss fluids around, etc., and it worked perfectly. I shut it down and restarted it with no problems. I tried again two hours later and it was back to no-start. This morning it was the same way. :mad:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pixiez3pixiez3 Member Posts: 2
    Does yours stall out of no where? We have been having problems with ours for over 6 months. It is a 97 DGC and we were about to completely give up untill I read a lot off of these forums. No matter what when we took it in to get it tested either they would tell us they couldn't find anything wrong or we would replace something and the problem would still be there. There seems to be alot of posts about replacing or re-soltering the Circuit Board behind the dash so thats what we are going to try. I will repost how it works but after what all I have read Im almost positive it will as it has for so many others.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    It has yet to stall. So far, the only manifestation is the failure to start. If I turn the key to "on" and hear the fuel pump activate (the fuel pump is one of the items controlled under the ASD circuit), I know it is going to start and work fine. I tried starting the van again last night, but no dice. It was only having this problem for about two weeks before it became so unreliable that my wife asked me to purchase a new car and we ceased to use it. I was able to start it a few times after that, but then went a solid month where it failed to start every time I tried it. Once winter set in toward the end of September, I parked it and did not try again until Wednesday night (when it started right up!).

    I also have the circuit board issue, but that silly thing works less than it doesn't any more, so I really doubt it has anything to do with it directly. In fact, the board was not working Wednesday when the van did work, but came on after it was running for about 20 minutes. Both times I tried starting it yesterday, the gauges were working. :confuse:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fcharvfcharv Member Posts: 1
    The guages and center console buttons do not work (except the tac). Replacing fuses has not worked. I am told I need a new circuit board, but new ones are not available. Where can I locate one?
  • wendel1999wendel1999 Member Posts: 1
    While driving, my interior lights flash, all doors lock continually, "door ajar" goes on and off as well as constant chimes. The only time it seems to stop is when I am traveling between 85 to 95 km/h. Any help to stop this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan
  • dmortondmorton Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    I have the same exact problem. The center console doesn't show temp or compass heading. Now the map lights are both out. Did you ever get this fixed?
  • eric1417eric1417 Member Posts: 1
    HI. I know this is a long shot, but did you ever figure out what was the issue with your van? Mine is doing the SAME EXACT THING. The check engine light comes on and off and reads "cylinder misfire 1". Ive replaced coil pack, plugs and wires and its still does it...especially after getting gas. Its the weirdest thing. Thanks for any help you can give me!
  • robarnt8robarnt8 Member Posts: 2
    You have a weak fuel injector in cylinder #1.
  • robarnt8robarnt8 Member Posts: 2
    58 pounds. The pressure regulator is part of the in-the-tank fuel pump assembly. Replace the pump ($170.00) and you replace the regulator.
  • stevend69stevend69 Member Posts: 1
    my 2000 dgc runs good until u drive it a couple of miles then it starts cutting in and out and cuts off and starts jerking and wont run does anyone know what it might b
  • cowboysdreamo1cowboysdreamo1 Member Posts: 2
    edited September 2012
    I have a 96 Town and Country minivan with a 3.3L engine that keeps overheating. I have replaced the water pump, the fan relay, the thermostat and I have flushed the radiator with flushing solution bought at an auto parts store. After driving for about twenty minutes it starts to overheat, turning the heat on high will keep it from overheating for awhile but not forever. If I run the a/c it over heats much faster. It also overheats much faster when I'm driving slow or idling at a stop light. It does not have a coolant leak and the fans are working fine. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. :-)

    Oh and I've replaced the belt and the belt tensioner, so I know I belt is not slipping.
  • cowboysdreamo1cowboysdreamo1 Member Posts: 2
  • swisschocolateswisschocolate Member Posts: 3
  • swisschocolateswisschocolate Member Posts: 3
    Sometimes when I go over a bump my van shutsdown, I can restart in neutral and keep driving. I would really fix this \.
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