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haha thanks guys
go to youtube.com, click video and search any combo of "2000 lincoln all cleaned up subs ported box rockford folsegate"
i got 4 videos of my car on there so click "more from samtana3706" and check 'em allll out...
Thanks.
Thanks, Cat
I got prices to replace the suspension with original stuff-- $3200.00. I did a search and found a kit to convert to conventional struts on all four corners. It comes from www.strutmasters.com and seems to be the way to go at a little less than $600.00 for all four corners (struts and springs pre-assembled). Local spring shop says about 5 hours @ $70.00 for labor. They are supposed to be simple enough for me to install but due to my age and some hand problems I'm not sure I'll attempt it.
Right now I've decided to keep it as is knowing that the overworked compressor is going to fail sometime soon. When this happens I'll probably shell out what it costs to do the conversion. I absolutely love the car. It is the best car of all the fifty or so cars I've owned since 1951. It is usually far cheaper to repair what you have than to buy a replacement and since I love this car and don't mind driving old stuff it seems best. I'm at that age when I'm not so much interested in how fast my car will go as I am in how far it will go!
Gene
Here's the picture below...if it doesn't show then the second link below will have the picture. It's next to the yellow arrow. Thanks in advance.
http://i39.tinypic.com/2dln1x3.jpg
http://i39.tinypic.com/2dln1x3.jpg
Dealer says expensive to get at transmission and fix Any ideas/alternatives would be appreciated Thanks
All i had to do was take out the damn thing and it was good as new
i have 88 LCSS, this is a designer/collector car that sold for almost 30k.
it was a hybrid idea by a designer who applied the designs of a luxury town car with the sport mustang, this car was available for only one model year because luxury car buyers walked away from ford/lincoln which forced them to go back to luxury only...
the original designer of the 88 LCSS was fired also prior to the unveiling of this car because it would have cost $900 more/car to build. instead of trashing the design, ford/lincoln hired a new designer who's first attack on the design was to cheese-ball the electrical system. unfortunetly, its been this way ever since.
if your cluster is damaged, it is a result of a bad electrical system, but none the less, the electrical system will cause more than a faulty air ride system problem as the entire system is barely heavy enough to support the electrical loads needed by the car.
if your car is electric this and electric that, then you must feel as bad as i do, but i like my 88 LCSS, and as time goes on, i will have non factory modifications made to eliminate ford's way of making money off us.
air ride, seperate the system and isolate it from dependency of other system componants.
charging system, remove the power distribution block and utilize heavier gauge wiring so the electricals work off both the battery and alternator.
idea...under factory, if your air ride shorts out such as mine does, its going to short out the brake hydroboost pump's pressure sensor (which means no brakes period), and unlike old cars, even standing on the brake pedal wont help.
fortunately, i was on my way home going uphill when this happened (thank God my van was up against the curb behind me as i rolled backwards into it...LOL)
all in all, best advice, find a reputable electrical specialist and have all components properly wired and non integrated...
I drive a ’95 Continental that has become my most favorite car of the fifty vehicles I’ve owned since 1951. It also is one of the best cars I’ve owned. All that to say, I really hated to think of giving it up when the air suspension started showing signs of failing. I thought things over for nine months, drove some new cars, then decided to go with a complete new Strutmasters system, including new rear shocks. I’ve had the new suspension for six weeks and have driven it nearly 4,000 miles.
Over all I’m pretty satisfied, enough so that I’d do it again. One problem I have, and it may not be a problem: There isn’t much front spring travel so the car bottoms out on sharp dips and bumps (such as speed bumps). It seems that just a bit more spring travel would be better.
The other problem had to do with getting the car aligned after the install (the installer doesn’t do alignments). In order to bring the car within specs the alignment shop had to modify the front strut towers by drilling the three mounting holes in different locations. It drives excellent and so far I see no undue tire wear so I think we’re good on that issue.
Total cost breakdown is as follows:
Cost of front & rear strutmasters suspension (including rear shocks and shipping charges) — $824.00
Boise Spring Works, 4 hours labor to install— 290.00
Big O Tire, modification & alignment— 130.00
TOTAL $1,244.00
Thanks
Good luck on your search for the problem your having.
Cat
One garage said it could be the level of power steering fluid and another said immediately it was the power steering pump. Any info on what to do. Thanks.
Did you get that tensioner off? I have a 2000 Continental w/ the retaining torx bolt unscrewed loose and leaning on the wheel well. I'm wondering if I have to lift the engine 1/2" to get this thing off.
What's the answer?