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Comments
All the instructions for resetting the system and programming new keys are explained in the owner's manual -- it might be a good idea if you read it.
I'm sure you were able to test drive an Escape before ordering one. So you probably already have an impression on how comfortable it is. I however, sat in the seats and I found that the Escapes aren't as comfortable as the Tribs.
I'm sure if you've put in research to your purchase/decision as well as some "one on one" time with the vehicle you'll be very happy. I had done this with my trib for well over 6 months and I'm as happy as can be... Now if only I could have that same experience with my University courses...
This is simply to build an information base about the fix too see how widespread and successful it is.
Thanks,
Jeff
I've got so many rattles ands squeeks coming from the hatch that I can't believe it.
Anyone else have the problem? I'm taking it in to be checked out in 2 days, so if anyone
has any suggestions pls. let me know.
If you're buying one soon please note 2 other imperfections that I found:
1. Plastic wheel well lining - front passenger side looks like it was never completely attached
it hung down so much that the tire wore a hole in it. Dealer didn't catch it?!
2. "MAZDA" nameplate on hatch applied crooked.
I like the car, but these things make me wonder about what's going on at the assembly plant.
Aloha from Hawaii !!!
Ford Escape - Emergency stop sale. Cruise control might stick
Ford Escape - Emergency stop sale. Steering wheel might fall off in driver's hands
Ford Escape - Emergency stop sale. Rear wheels might fall off.
Ford Motor Company - Emergency stop sale. Air bags go off without warning.
Thanks for the input. I guess I can't read.
But the point of my tirade you didn't get.
If you accidently put the wrong key into the ignition, or if someone puts a key copy (same result) the ignition locks. There is a small plate that drops into the ignition cylinder that will not allow the key to be placed back to reprogram it. Now, as I said before, you are stuck without being able to use your car UNTIL it is towed to Ford and THEY reprogram it. If this isn't your understanding, please send me the proper instructions becuase our car is 250 miles away at a Ford Dealer who can't get into the ignition or reprogram the keys.
Great huh? Actually not that funny vince8. Just trying to let others know before it may accidently happen to you.......
Looks like prices are coming down as I predicted months ago.. In Saturdays paper a Dealer is offering XLT V6 Escapes (6) of them for $19,975.. I predict by fall I will be able to get one for about $19,000 - 19,500 no problem..
Note:
It takes two good keys to program a spare. The instructions are in the owner's manual.
If you have only one good key (i.e., you lost one), the dealer has to reprogram the system in order to make any additional replacement keys. Another safety feature to prevent someone like a dishonest valet, etc. from making a copy of your working key.
The only situation in which you should have to tow the car (outside of a total system failure)would be if you lost all your working keys. In this case, the car needs to be reprogrammed by the dealer, and you would have no other means of getting it there.
Hope this helps.
Good luck!
What you explained is what I was told when we bought the car.
BUT, it never allowed us entry back into the ignition cylinder even after 2 days! We have three keys (made and extra at purchase time).
So, I will repost when I find out why the dealer is having so much trouble. Interesting situation.
It turns out that we had a defective ignition cylinder. When you get a lock out, it is supposed to reset in 30' but ours never did.
Ford express mailed the part, replaced it, reprogrammed our keys and paid for the 5 days of rental without question.
Hats off to Ford.
Now if I could just get my van fixed, I would be totally satisfied.
has anyone else noticed this? it doesn't look normal to me at all...
My ES doesn't have any problems on the second "click" to open the trunk door.
Good luck.
Secondly, my car got water, sugar and other chemicals poured in the tank. It has proven impossible for me to find a locking gas cap for the Mazda Tribute. (and yes I do have a remote fuel release as well as an alarm on my car. Still didn't stop them.)
Any suggestions??
anybody else looked under the car for rust ?
is there a solution to the problem im having?
i'm going to do a little 'painting' or apply a rust-converter on the rusted out metals.
http://www.partscheap.com/forda.htm
Ford Part# YL8Z-9030-BA $24.29
It's for an Escape, but knowing the degree to which the Escape/Tribute are alike, my guess is it would fit. I don't believe the Escape has a locking filler door like the Tribute, which is probably why they have the cap available.
Thanks again!
1)Does the Taurus with the same motor have this same problem?
2) For those who had the fix done, did your mileage go up? If so, by how much???
Thanks
Did these miscreants actually pry open your filler door?
Good luck!
The problem is one of an odor only -- no leaking fuel, no combustible fumes, or anything of that nature, so gas mileage is unaffected by the fix.
do u guys know where i can get a rust converter/inhibitor?
Of course, maybe you're a lawyer and/or live in New York City, too. The motive behind the action would then be relatively understandable.
Most cars have protective coatings on the surfaces of parts that have a limited thickness, such as the floor pans, fuel tanks, etc. These are the parts you should worry about seeing rust on. They have a protective finish which protects the base metal from corrosion.
The best way to protect your undercarriage from extreme corrosion is to keep it clean, especially in the winter when road salt is heavily used or if you live near a salt water source (i.e. ocean). Salt, especially in the presence of moisture, increases the rate of corrosion and it will start to eat away at the protective coating causing premature corrosion on all parts.
Your exhaust system, while protected by a finish, will see corrosion in a short period of time as well. That is due to the high temperature, the exhaust gases and the exhaust liquids (water, a product of combustion). This is why many cars have stainless steel exhaust systems, but you pay for that in the sticker price as well.
In the end, I would not be worried about corrosion on parts like the axle, but if you see it on the floor pans, I would talk to the dealer.
Does anyone know which part of the Tribute has been rust-protected?
GAM
I think Ford used some cheap , poorly manufactured steel building Escape/Tribute. Don't buy this car if you plan to keep it more than 4 years. I've never seeing another car with so much rust on bottom parts brand new in dealer's lot. My 10 year old Toyota Corolla doesn' show so much rust on the drive shaft(I'm in Texas, no salt)
I chose the very popular Parchment Gold on my Escape but it seems to be a Camoflage color that blends into the road itself because new or marginal drivers don't seem to notice me enough to keep from causing close encounters!
Like some other Parchment Gold owners who have posted, I am going to have to install the Daylight Running Light accessory so I'll be seen as well as those of you who had the good sense to choose Bolder, Safer Colors in anticipation of those other drivers on the road!
It of course is no big deal, but you wonder, if they are messing up on badges, what else is there?
Also, I looked at one up on a lift. With the 3.0 V6 the catalyst for the rear bank of cylinders is right up against the steering rack and the bearing for the right half-shaft. Anyone know if the heat from this converter is causing problems for the seals and fluid in the rack? It sure seems like a lot of heat near parts that don't generally like heat.
I really like the access to the engine compartment. These appear to be easy vehicles to work on. Even better, with the Duratech engine and timing chain (instead of a belt) there should be very little maintainence required!
Zoom Zoom!
I've no problems with the mirrors . . . we have much better visibility in the Trib that we had in our 626 or have in our '92 Protege.
Also . . . on the color safety post . . . the Desert Mettalic color we have seem to be no problem for other drivers!
"One of three SUVs has acceptable bumpers: Only the Ford Escape, a small SUV introduced for the 2001 model year, turned in an acceptable performance in the Institute's bumper tests. It's 'the only vehicle in this round of tests with halfway decent bumpers,' Lund says. The other two SUVs tested, Hyundai's Santa Fe and Toyota's RAV4, turned in very poor performances."
Average damage $ per test are as follows: Escape/Tribute $485; Santa Fe $1287; and, Rav4 $2003.