Seems like I`ve read that it is not unusual for new trucks to need a realignment. Cause was stated to be the way that the trucks were straped down during shipment. So much pressure is applied that the alignment is affected. This is why they won`t charge for it AS LONG AS you report it early enough. Otherwise you pay for it.
'01 Suburban LT - I had the same problem with an annoying squeak in the dash after a couple hundred miles. It consistently squeaked/chirped when going over expansion joints on the freeways. The dealer took apart the entire dash including the instrument panel and found that "several" screws were never installed in the factory. They installed the missing screws which solved the problem.
stakeout,sometimes things don't always turn out as you expect them to. i was expecting the worst, but was pleasently surprised by a helpful tech. and a service mgr. that didn't try to give me the run around. the front end of the suburban was not even close to factory specs. the printout showed both left and right front caster and toe were way out of specs. the camber on both sides was ok. the left rear toe was slightly out and the right rear was ok. the steering wheel was off slightly, but i honestly didn't notice that. i guess maybe because it's already at a slight angle to the seat. the service mgr. and i had a disagreement about the severity of the scalloping. i considered it severe, but he called it minor. i guess it depends on which side of the counter your standing on. anyway, we reached a fair compromise. after rotating the tires he said that if the scalloping was not completely gone after running them on the back for four thousand mi.,that he would replace them under the gm warranty. he backed that up in writing on my invoice. fair enough. i had the opportunity to check a few other suburbans and tahoes while i was there. what i found was a 2001 sub lt with minor cupping, a 2001 tahoe z71 with severe cupping and a 1500 p'up with 3000mi. that had just started. the service tech had a bunch of guesses as to the cause of the problem, but my guess is that it's a quality control thing. anyway, thats my story.thanks again stakeout.
Damaged LH mirror backing out of garage. The mirror attaches to the tilt assembly with a circle of plastic locking tabs. Three tabs are broken off. I damaged two a year ago and fixed w/epoxy. The wife finished it off this week.I have seen Lego built stronger than this. Dealer wants $228. for the mirror face (heated), $550+ for a whole mirror assembly. Seems I saw a post here a year or two ago of a place (dealer?) that mail orders parts at a significant discount. Anybody know a link to a discounter? TIA Gonefishin
Looked at the Kelly Blue Book 1/2 ton, 2003 Suburban option list and noticed that it is Not available with Rear Wheel Steering. OR four wheel steering which ever is the correct term. Only the 3/4 ton Suburban apparently will get this option. There goes my only option that may have tempted me to buy a 2003. Tinker toy steering wheel switches and such doesn`t cut it for a reason for considering a 2003. Nothing worth while for 2003. Maybe something will be available by 2005.
I purchased a 2002 Yukon XL with autoride and have been very pleased with the option. The vehicle I purchased was loaded and came with it and I can not tell you how pleased I have been with it. I have also towed with it and could hardly tell I was pulling a trailer. The other neat thing you will notice will be the lack of any push from wind from a tractor trailer passing. I have been very pleased with the vehicle with the exception of having to take it in for a faulty fuel sensor. A vehicle stickered at over $48,000.00 should not have to go in for service so soon. Good luck .. SEAN
cadean in response to your excitement. I took my 01 YukXL in for the same tire wear problem. I have tombstones (a.k.a. Firestone) on the truck they had 10,674 miles and I went in for LOF and rotation of tires. The service manager told me that the tires were bad and failed "road force and balance" He ordered me two new tires against service bulletin #00-03-10-007 under warranty. So I'm wondering if its suspension or tire QA? No other problems with the vehicle what so everl. Hope this aids your battle with your delearship. No adjustment to suspension required! ndared1
It really makes a big difference in handling and ride quality, I would not ever consider getting another YXL without it. Test drive one with and one without, you can't help but feel the difference.
I suggest you buy a spiffy 2 tone painted expedition, with power rear seats, and change your scree name in the process.
No offense, but why do you find if necessary to belittle things you have no control over? May I add, why would one really want 4 wheel steering on a light duty SUV? Too be cooler than your neighbor?
I have an 02 Suburban, it is supurb, I do not want nor need 2 tone paint, 4 wheel steering or most of the other bells and whistles that you crave.
By the way we find a 13" tv with built in DVD player works wonders between the two front buckets for the kids (with and sometimes without) headphones, and the savings are in the neighborhood of over $1000 compared to a built in system or a notbook pc.
Perhaps you are simply venting frustration, but it is beginning to sound like whining or poking others in the ribs, I for one am tired of hearing it.
I am buying a 2002 Sub LT. I was wondering if they are giving anything off the sticker price if I take the 0% financing. Also, any referrals in the Ventura, California area. i will be buying in a week. Robert
I may well buy a 2003 Expedition and will test drive one for sure. If I do I will change my sign in. Until that time I feel it`s O.K. to shaft GM or any other mfgr. for poor assembly line work or for not meeting the needs of thousands of senior citizens. I thought everyone had the right to state what they wanted in a SUV - Even though they don`t have a chance to get it. As far as 4 wheel steering - it seems someone had posted here that it would be available on the 1/2 ton suburban. If it were avail. I would change from a Tahoe to a Suburban desire. Of course if you had spinal problems and couldn`t easily turn to judge close parking, you would see the benefit of four wheel steering in Tahoe or Sub. Don`t feel the need to be cool at all, do feel the need to have a truck to fit my needs. I won`t be cool when I sell the aluminum wheels supplied and change to painted steel wheels. I apologize for hurting your feelings and will try to ease up. Better yet will post rarely. Will do more reading and less writing. Have a great life all.
Thanks for your reply, ndared1. I'll give it a shot with the service mgr. at my dealership.So far they have been pretty good to deal with, so i hope it doesn't turn into a battle.Even though i couldn't tell that the alignment was off, (no shakes, tracked straight and true) the printout showed that it wasn't even close. I'm really surprised that there aren't more postings on this problem, i am finding that very few of the suburbans or tahoes that i check out don't at least have some minor cupping. I also have a 95 k1500 p'up with the turbo diesel. i removed the stock goodyears at 10,000mi.(only because i didn't care for them).i put on a set of dunlop rv's that i finally had to replace at 80,000mi.,and they were still road legal. i can only hope that i can get that same kind of tire mileage on the suburban. As far as the rest of the suburban goes, everything else seems to be ok so far. i just hope that the dreaded "gm eng. knock" doesn't rear its ugly head. The only vehicle that could get me out of this sub., is when they finally offer the duramax diesel as an option. that knocking i can live with! To rzurawik, i'd hold out for dealer cost, "plus" the 0% financing.
Should I buy a 2002 LT now or wait until the 03's are introduced and hope for end of year factory incentives to kick in to clear out '02 model inventory? Or, do I wait for the '03 LT's because they're superior and warrant the purchase over the '02's?
You have not hurt my feelings or me in any way. I have a 02 LS Sub, you shoud get what best suits your needs, but it seems to me that some of your needs are much more easily obtained via the secondary market. I also think that the things you desire or the complaints you have are easily spreadable to all mfrs not solely GM.
IF you have a need for 4wheel steering either wait for 04, get a smaller vehicle, or get the HD model. It really not hard.
I guess it seems you want it all, and don't want to have to do anything to make it happen.
It does not work that way. There are tradeoffs all the way.
What about the Yukon/or Yukon XL series, if you have all the $$$ for the options that you want, surely the upgrade to that line is doable too.
I test drove a used 2001 Yukon XL 3/4 ton last night. The truck was equipped with the Autoride suspension. It drove terribly! Although the ride was nicely dampened, the handling was VERY soft feeling. The truck had been equipped with after-market off road tires ("Wranglers") and aluminum rims. However, the tires were 265/75/R16s (I think that is very comparable to the stock tire). I also noticed that the tire tread was scalloped and had not worn perfectly. The truck had 35,000 miles. Does anyone know if the autoride suspension is real particular about what kind of tires you have on the vehicle? Could the after-market tires and rims be causing the Autoride suspension to not work properly? Also, as soon as I started the truck, the message center came on (and stayed on)and told me that the suspension needed serviced. I don't remember the exact text of the message. Because of these problems, I'm no longer interested in purchasing the vehicle. But, I would like to have a better understanding of what might have been the problem with the truck. Any advise? Thanks!
If it said the system needed to be serviced that is why it didn't feel right. I have a 3/4 ton 2001 YXL with stock 245's and factory wheels, and autoride. Feels like the old 1/2 ton models did, and I thought those had a pretty good ride. I have not had any problems from the autoride system and the truck turns tight and drives straight, no slop in the steering or suspension. My guess is that the aftermarket tires and rims might have something to do with it, and possibly may have damaged one of the front wheel height sensors. 265's are taller and wider than the stock 245's, the rim change was nessesary because the truck came with 6.5" wide rims, and the 265's need at least a 7" rim to be warranted by the tire maker. Off road tires have softer side walls too, so the soft feeling in the truck is because of that mostly. The truck is supposed to have load range "E" tires, these tires have a very stiff 10ply sidewall, and that gives the truck the crisp response in the steering. The person that owns the truck should take it in while it's still under the factory warranty to get that fixed, I know I wouldn't buy a car that needed to be worked on right away!
I've also checked a few subn's and tahoe's.. same tire wear.. that only convinces me that there is a problem.. I'd like to know whether that service bulletin you mentioned relates to a specific brand tire or suspension problems.. I've looked service bulletins up thru the NHTSA site.. not mentioned there... http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/Index.cfm also tried the AllData site at http://www.alldata.com/consumer/TSB/20/84201625.html they had a couple of posted service bulletins re: tires but not that particular one.. only #00-03-10-006 was listed..for 'Tires - Radial Force Variation' under Yukon XL '01
the strange thing is that both my wife's '01 4wd Subn and my '01 Z71 have the same problem with different brand tires..this is gonna get good.. I can feel it..
My 01 4wd Suburban always wore the inside front of the tires badly. I got a lot of tire noise after about 15K miles. At 32K miles my tires were almost shot so I bought a 02 Suburban.
Message 2429 explains how to get the 2003 year info. The changes are minimal in my mind. As far as 0% percent financing and discounts, I just bought a 02 in NC at invoice with the 2.5K rebate (or I could have had 0% for 3yrs). Basically, I paid less for my 02 than my 01 Suburban after rebate. I doubt the incentives will be offered right away on the 2003 models. Inventory in NC appears to be low right now so I would not expect any more incentives to move the 02s out.
I am new to the board and just purchased a 2002 Surburban Z71.
I had test driven it before but when I was on the way home noticed that the venicle would sort of "bounce" or "quiver" when driving on a fairly smooth road.
Now this was not a perfect black top and I expected the Z71 to be a little stiff naturally but this seems a little odd.
Is it because of the Surburban's long wheelbase in conjunction with the stiffer shocks?
Is this normal?
Is there any way to tone down the stiffness of the suspension any?
I mainly got the Z71 for the looks and features that were the middle of the road from the LS to LT but will do some minor off roading and gravel travelling from time to time.
I have 60K on my 2000 Yukon XL.A few weeks back the low coolant light came on, and I had to add coolant this has happpened 3 times since then.The dealer pressure checked the system and said it held.They put a dye in and a few days later I brought it back and they can not find where it's going.they pulled the plugs and they wrer dry,they looked for the dye in the oil and it wasn't there ???Does anyone have a similar problem and some advice ??? Thanks
I had a similar problem, it ended up being the heater pipes going to the rear heater core. The pipe rubbed the body and cut a slot into the tubes. I was not a constant leak until it finally let go all together. They replaced them with a new part number that has a few more bends in it so they don't rub the body anymore. Try looking near the right rear wheel, and you will find 4 tubes 2 are coolant the other 2 are A/C. If all else fails try a different dealer. Check you engine oil too, and make sure it's not leaking into the oil.
Thanks for your input.But wouldn't it show up on a pressure test which they did twice ?or only if the rear heat was turned on ? Also wouldn't it drip on my driveway floor ?They put a dye in and checked the oil a few weeks later and no sigh of the dye so I don't think it's mixing with the oil
It would flow to the rear heater, mine went last month, and I was using the A/C not heater. Lost over a gallon of coolant and fast. It started out slow, and then turned into a waterfall. If they can't find it during the pressure check, then it's time to look at the heater cores themselves. If it drops pressure during the check, then it should not be that hard to find. Does your windshield steam up if you turn on the defroster, and smell like maple syrup? If so it's the front heater core, it should be leaking out of the condensate drain, and if you are using the A/C it will dilute the coolant so you might not see it as easy. If it is the rear one leaking the carpet on the right side of the cargo area could be wet, or leaking out of that drain too.
It has to be going somewhere, so you gotta find it. Heck it might be a cracked fluid bottle, or the seam might be not sealed all the way. Try to get them to swap that part out first. Also have them check the water pump for a seal leak.
I recently bought a 99 BURB LT with 4WD (52K, GM lease) from a Christie Chevy/Olds in Mathews, VA. This is my weekend river vehicle to convey me, wife, 2 kids, 2 dogs from Richmond to the river on the weekends. I will occasionally pull a boat (5000 #) and throw some kayaks/bikes on top.
The vehicle checks out great, and I got a 4 yr/48K extended warranty on it.
My question: assuming I put less than 10K a year on it and only engage 4WD once a year for the infrequent snows we get, what kind of problems should I look forward to? My understanding of this vehicle is that I should be able to go about 150K without much problem. The 5.7 L engine has a long lineage (from the 350 V8 GM has made for years), and the 4 speed automatic also appears to be fairly reliable.
Thanks from a previous owner of a 1995 Ford Windstar which ate head gaskets and transmissions.
I'm getting ready to buy my first Suburban and came across this web site, carsdirect.com. Has anybody ever purchased a car on-line before? I'm curious. Their price for a '02 LT model is around 33K, not bad in my mind. Any comments would be appreciated
I have a 'oo Yukon XL with a whine in the differential at about 53mph with no load on the gas pedal. It disappears when accelerating or decelerating from that speed. GM says it's "normal" and will do nothing about it. Sound familiar to anyone?
I am contemplating buying an 03 Suburban 2500. Out west here we have mountains. So towing 6000 lbs. of boat, trailer, kids, through those mountain passes is a non-trivial task. The 5300 motor in the 1500 does not do it for me.
The 8100 motor is downright kickass but fuel economy prohibitive. That said, the 6000 with the 4.10 rear gear is where I'm headed.
However the "look" of the enormous gap between the fender well and the stock 16" 8 lug wheel/tire combo is wayyyy too much!
I contacted Bell Tech and they said they have no lowering kits for the 2500 series.
Do any of you know a lowering solution to what I consider a somewhat frustrating dilemma?
I purchased a 2002 Yukon back in Feb and after a few months begin to hear the whine noise as you mentioned(Post #2384) under the same conditions. Haven't taken it in to have investigated yet but am curious if this is normal. Otherwise so far I love the vehicle.
You should get the towing capacity you need and the ride height you want. It comes with a 6.0L engine, and autoride to bring the back of the truck to level with the boat on the hitch.
Has anyone noticed that the EPA ratings for the Yukon XL 1500 4WD has crept up from 13/17mpg in 2002 to 14/17mpg in 2003? The Denali has made an amazing improvement from 12/15mpg in 2002 to 14/18mpg in 2003. The Denali is now better than the 1500 4WD despite having the same gear ratios, larger engine capacity, heavier weight and additional drag from an AWD system?
I have been reading this discussion for awhile, first time actually posting a message... just put in my order for a 2003 Z-71 Suburban. I ordered the truck with the side impact airbags, adjustable pedals, steering wheel controls, and rear seat entertainment center.
Does anyone know how long it usually takes for a vehicle to be built and delivered?
vehicle:01 2500 sub.4wd purchased 7/02 First noticed engine noise @1200 miles the morning after a 120 mile trip.Vehicle taken back to dealer before tsb was issued & several times since then.After 1200 mile tow trip motor developed knock on cold start,g.m. engineer says noise is "normal".Knock disappeared after 2 weeks,but slapping/tapping noise still present.Oil analysis shows 351ppmcopper,35ppmaluminum with 13500 miles & 4 oil changes.Whats going on here?
While I have not had that problem with my 6.0, I am told it is common with this motor. My brother has it in his 2500HD and GM gave him a free 7/100 powertrain warranty to ease his mind. They claim it is perfectly normal...
my front tires on my 2000 suburban are cucupping.I've had the front end checked and it's ok. My G M dealer also says he can find nothing wrong. Any ideas?
I'm getting ready to purchase my first Suburban and can't decide between the two packages. I'm not sure which one to go with! After further researching, it seems you can get a loaded LS package for about 2gran less than a basic LT package. Any input woud be helpful, thanks.
The seats are different between the LS and the LT. I found the power lumbar and side bolsters amke the LT seats more comfortable in my opinion. There are other differences as well. You should compare the equipment line item by line item. These are some I would look for (verify for accuracy): * Color keyed moldings and handles. * OnStar. * Electrochromatic inside mirror. * Heated seats. * Automatic climate control.
I was told by my dealer in Sun Valley that 2003 was the year for DuraMax in the Suburban. I have not gotten any word yet from Chevy on the subject. I would trade in my 99 Suburban that I think is great, if they come out with the diesel.
It does not sound like there is going to be a Duramax Suburban in the near future. GM would have to raise the height of the Suburban 2 inches to get it in. Rumours are of a 6 cylinder Duramax for the Suburban in the future. A good site for information on Diesel Suburbans is www.dieselsuburbans.com. Scroll down to almost the bottom of page and click on Suburban News. I am not affiliated with them in any way, but Dave has been very helpful on questions I have had on the Diesel Suburbans.
I just purchased a 2002 Yukon XL SLT that had a delivery date of July 29 from the factory. My question has to do with the body colored side moldings with chrome trim. My vehicle has the trim on the doors only. I noticed that other Yukon XLs had the trim also included behind the rear wheels. When I asked the dealer about this he told me that a change was made mid-year that omitted the molding behind the rear wheel and the small piece between the back door and the rear wheel. Has anyone heard about this or is the dealer misinformed? I personally like the additional trim and would like it added if it is supposed to be there.
I have an 01 YXL and have also noticed the newer versions have omitted the moldings behind the rear wheels and behind the back door. When in for service two weeks ago I asked one of the salesman about the change. I told me I was confusing a YXL with a Denali until I showed him two new 02 YXLs that still had the blue tape on the moldings. He talked with the sales manager and they were unsure why the change mid year. They surmised a few possibilities 1) cost savings, 2) change in supplier as the 03 moldings were scheduled to change anyway or 3) change to allow Chevy wheel flares to be used on GMC. I don't know if any or all of those are correct, but it is clear a change was made sometime in the last month or so.
Comments
http://www.kbb.com
TIA
Gonefishin
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/index.cfm
http://www.gmotors.com/
I took my 01 YukXL in for the same tire wear problem. I have tombstones (a.k.a. Firestone) on the truck they had 10,674 miles and I went in for LOF and rotation of tires. The service manager told me that the tires were bad and failed "road force and balance" He ordered me two new tires against service bulletin #00-03-10-007 under warranty. So I'm wondering if its suspension or tire QA? No other problems with the vehicle what so everl. Hope this aids your battle with your delearship. No adjustment to suspension required!
ndared1
No offense, but why do you find if necessary to belittle things you have no control over? May I add, why would one really want 4 wheel steering on a light duty SUV? Too be cooler than your neighbor?
I have an 02 Suburban, it is supurb, I do not want nor need 2 tone paint, 4 wheel steering or most of the other bells and whistles that you crave.
By the way we find a 13" tv with built in DVD player works wonders between the two front buckets for the kids (with and sometimes without) headphones, and the savings are in the neighborhood of over $1000 compared to a built in system or a notbook pc.
Perhaps you are simply venting frustration, but it is beginning to sound like whining or poking others in the ribs, I for one am tired of hearing it.
Get that Ford and have a great life.
Robert
As far as 4 wheel steering - it seems someone had posted here that it would be available on the 1/2 ton suburban. If it were avail. I would change from a Tahoe to a Suburban desire.
Of course if you had spinal problems and couldn`t easily turn to judge close parking, you would see the benefit of four wheel steering in Tahoe or Sub. Don`t feel the need to be cool at all, do feel the need to have a truck to fit my needs. I won`t be cool when I sell the aluminum wheels supplied and change to painted steel wheels.
I apologize for hurting your feelings and will try to ease up.
Better yet will post rarely. Will do more reading and less writing. Have a great life all.
I'm really surprised that there aren't more postings on this problem, i am finding that very few of the suburbans or tahoes that i check out don't at least have some minor cupping.
I also have a 95 k1500 p'up with the turbo diesel. i removed the stock goodyears at 10,000mi.(only because i didn't care for them).i put on a set of dunlop rv's that i finally had to replace at 80,000mi.,and they were still road legal. i can only hope that i can get that same kind of tire mileage on the suburban.
As far as the rest of the suburban goes, everything else seems to be ok so far. i just hope that the dreaded "gm eng. knock" doesn't rear its ugly head.
The only vehicle that could get me out of this sub., is when they finally offer the duramax diesel as an option. that knocking i can live with!
To rzurawik, i'd hold out for dealer cost, "plus" the 0% financing.
Any advice is appreciated!
IF you have a need for 4wheel steering either wait for 04, get a smaller vehicle, or get the HD model. It really not hard.
I guess it seems you want it all, and don't want to have to do anything to make it happen.
It does not work that way. There are tradeoffs all the way.
What about the Yukon/or Yukon XL series, if you have all the $$$ for the options that you want, surely the upgrade to that line is doable too.
Tradeoffs/
the strange thing is that both my wife's '01 4wd Subn and my '01 Z71 have the same problem with different brand tires..this is gonna get good.. I can feel it..
I had test driven it before but when I was on the way home noticed that the venicle would sort of "bounce" or "quiver" when driving on a fairly smooth road.
Now this was not a perfect black top and I expected the Z71 to be a little stiff naturally but this seems a little odd.
Is it because of the Surburban's long wheelbase in conjunction with the stiffer shocks?
Is this normal?
Is there any way to tone down the stiffness of the suspension any?
I mainly got the Z71 for the looks and features that were the middle of the road from the LS to LT but will do some minor off roading and gravel travelling from time to time.
Thanks
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
It has to be going somewhere, so you gotta find it. Heck it might be a cracked fluid bottle, or the seam might be not sealed all the way. Try to get them to swap that part out first. Also have them check the water pump for a seal leak.
The vehicle checks out great, and I got a 4 yr/48K extended warranty on it.
My question: assuming I put less than 10K a year on it and only engage 4WD once a year for the infrequent snows we get, what kind of problems should I look forward to? My understanding of this vehicle is that I should be able to go about 150K without much problem. The 5.7 L engine has a long lineage (from the 350 V8 GM has made for years), and the 4 speed automatic also appears to be fairly reliable.
Thanks from a previous owner of a 1995 Ford Windstar which ate head gaskets and transmissions.
Out west here we have mountains. So towing 6000 lbs. of boat, trailer, kids, through those mountain passes is a non-trivial task.
The 5300 motor in the 1500 does not do it for me.
The 8100 motor is downright kickass but fuel economy prohibitive.
That said, the 6000 with the 4.10 rear gear is where I'm headed.
However the "look" of the enormous gap between the fender well and the stock 16" 8 lug wheel/tire combo is wayyyy too much!
I contacted Bell Tech and they said they have no lowering kits for the 2500 series.
Do any of you know a lowering solution to what I consider a somewhat frustrating dilemma?
Thanx
Very strange?
Does anyone know how long it usually takes for a vehicle to be built and delivered?
Chris
http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/gmpistonslap/
denali any time in the future? .
the front end checked and it's ok. My G M dealer also says he can find nothing wrong. Any ideas?
* Color keyed moldings and handles.
* OnStar.
* Electrochromatic inside mirror.
* Heated seats.
* Automatic climate control.