thanks again. Would you happen to work for Michelin or Goodyear? I went to Tirerack.com and I think from the reviews and surveys I will be getting the Cross terrains or Forteras.
I had a tire rotation done recently. The tech wrote on the invoice that my SP Sport A2s were "chopped and noisy". It does seem like they have gotten a bit noisier lately. What does "chopped" mean, and how does it happen?
Our Kia Sedona minivan houses the spare tire underneath the vehicle. It's secured by some metal bars. I removed the spare the other day to get familiar with the procedure and noticed some marks on the sidewall where the metal bars touched the tire. These 'cinch marks' seem fairly deep, and I'm wondering if there's a safety issue associated with using this tire.
Any opinions? I'll probably ask the dealer for its opinion on my next visit.
This is one of the issues that the tire manufacturers have put on the table as a result of the Firestone situation. As a group, they have told the vehicle manufacturers that this situation needs to be addressed. Unfortunately, it is pretty far down the list and I doubt it will be addressed in the near future.
I don't know of anyone who has proven these marks cause a problem, but it is so very difficult to get good, reliable data on the subject. Tires have been tested with these marks and the results have been satisfactory. But these are lab tests and the real world might not be the same.
has the same undercar spare storage with the metal "cage". I don't see a problem there, and I'm a tire guy from way back.
It's a convenience feature, I believe, since I've dropped the spare tires with just the little stopper and cable - a cage would make it easier to control.
With the Sedona, though, blue, you've got roadside assistance - it isn't like you'll have to touch it or use the spare for very long....
The discount stores like BJ's, where they stack the tires on top of one another. I doubt that they rotate the stock regularly, so I'd hate to buy the tire that was flattened out on the bottom of the pile for 6-8 months.
I live in Michigan and the roads are rough, I love my Altima but the day to day hard ride is starting to get to me. I thought the first thing that would help is a taller tire when these are shot. Then go to different struts and shocks when its time to replace them. Any ideas on what make and size of tires would be helpful. Dukester
If I read Tire Guides right, your vehicle came with P215/55R17's on 7" wheels inflated to 33 front 30 rear. I also noted that the automatic has H rated tires and the manual trans came with V rated. Check your placard to make sure this is correct. The placard is usually located on a doorpost or in the glove box.
What is contributing to the harsh ride is 1) High speed rated tires, 2) Cold weather, and 3) low aspect ratio.
Here what will generally help improve ride - the opposite of the 3 above, AND a larger tire, larger meaning more load carrying capacity so the inflation pressure can be reduced.
The problem is the amount of room in the fender well. Unfortunately, I do not know of a chart or book that lists what the limitations are for every vehicle. You will probably have to do the research yourself. Remember - the worst condition is fully turned, fully compressed.
However, generally you can go one "size" up without problems. That means out in width by 10 (the first number in the size), P225/55R17, or up in aspect ratio 5 (the second number), P215/60R17. Either of these is going to have speedometer error of about 1 1/2%, which is OK so long as you are aware you are going faster than indicated. But be sure to check the clearances.
One additional thought: The Altima also comes with 16" tires, which opens more options.
I have an Infiniti G35, which comes with the same tire sizes as the Altima. There are only three tires available in a P215/55R17. Goodyear Eagle RS-A, Goodyear Eagle GS-D, and Bridgestone Turanza EL42. The consensus among G35 drivers over on g35driver.com is that the Bridgestones provide a smoother, quieter ride (at the expense of aggressive handling performance) than either of the Goodyear's. The Eagle's are performance tires, while the Turanza is a touring tire. Touring or Grand Touring tires provide better comfort than performance tires, and better performance than standard tires. I'm not sure about the Altima, but Infiniti's position on the G35 sedan is not to go wider than 225 in the front fender. However, several people have reported running 235/50R17's without problems (this size is only 0.2% off on the speedometer, too). There may or may not be an issue with the fully-turned, fully-compressed suspension state as capriracer mentions at this size, but there are definately many more choices of brand/model tire available. Also, a 235 tire is probably pushing the limits of a 7" wide wheel.
I haven't done the math or anything, but it seems a 235mm tire should be okay on a 7" wheel. I'm pretty sure the factory wheels on our '98 Isuzu Trooper are 7" - they are stamped "16x7JJ." The stock tire size is 245mm wide (245/70/16). Some folks have put 255 or 265 tires on the factory rims without any problems.
Opinion please regarding tire replacement on 98 Outback. After much comparison, surveys etc. decided to go with GY regatta 2. Being in Minn, #1 concern snow grip also quietness an issue. Is this my best bet or ???? Original Michelins were OK but noisy after 15k
Your Outback came with OE Michelins? Don't think I've ever seen that. Most I see come with Firestone, Yokohama, or Bridgestone.
Anyway, the Regatta should do pretty well. Also consider Cooper Lifeliner Touring SLE which has received some good reviews for snow traction. Or you could go with a "4 season specialty" (my terminology) tire from Nokian. The Nokian NRT2 comes in 205/70-15 which I think is your size.
"Ya get caught in a blizzard and your tires are bald - UFF DA"
Can someone educate me on the benefits and drawbacks of wheel locks for expensive alloy wheels? I have questions like: How many locks are needed per wheel? How much do they typically cost? What happens to the wheel balance if the locks are mounted? What if I lose the key?
than drawbacks. Securing expensive wheels are the best point, but I've always recommended two sets of locks. If you only use one set, the thieves can remove all the other lug nuts, the drop your vehicle, breaking the studs - the locks are useless if there's no wheel stud.
If you lose the "key" you're in trouble - no two ways around that. Don't lose they key.
I've never seen any balance problems because the locking lug nuts don't weigh much different than regular lug nuts. Since the lug nuts are so close to the center of the wheels, it won't make much difference, anyway.
A neat way to go is the new "all lock" lug nut systems that use slim nuts with matching patterns inside - all the lugs are locks.
I replaced the Michelin MXV4+ on my 2000 Accord SE with these tires primarily due to not being satisfied with wet weather handling of the Michelins. I was never comfortable with the wet weather handling of the Michelins (especially after they had over 20K) but I stayed with them until 34K before replacing them.
I must say after 5K miles I love these Dunlop Sports - especially in wet weather. They are also quieter in all conditions. I am sure I will not get as many miles with them but only time will tell.
I bought these for our '01 Altima and am very impressed so far. Much better than the Generals that came on the car as OE tires. Mike, I used to live in New Orleans and loved Mardi Gras, great party!
I put a new set of the Sumi HTR+'s on my Z last summer (225/50R16) and am very happy with them. Almost as good as the Pilot XGT V4's that I used to buy, but less than half the price. Tire Rack has a comparison of the 225/45R17 with the P7000 and Pilot Sport A/S: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/sumi_htr_plus_charts.html
Dry handling is the same, wet traction is better (could just be that they are new), road noise and ride comfort are noticeably better.
They are too new to get any idea of tire wear, but the treadwear rating was a bit higher than the Pilots. In my application, I could get them installed for ~$90 each, compared to ~$190 apiece for the Michelins. I have been very pleased thus far.
I'm looking for a set of tires for my '98 Sidekick Sport. It had Bridgestone Dueler HT 215/65/R16s on it when I got it, but replaced those at 24k with Dunlop AT 215/70/R16s. I'd like something either AT or all season, with white letter or OWL. I'd like it to last around 40k or better. The dunlops outlasted the Bridgestones, but only by 6k, they have 30k on them now. Any info is appreciated. Thanks!
I'd like a set of the stock 5 spoke alloy wheels that came on the Sidekick JLX Sport versions. Anybody know of any good stock/used or aftermarket wheel places online?
I left my 2002 Lexes 430 that only has 8,000 miles for four hot months in Florida garage.Now has slight vabration that probably is from flat spots. Any advice on how to handle? Thanks
I'd like to hear what CAPRIRACER has to say cuz IMO the tires are history. IIRC, back in tha day you could "unflat spot" old bias-ply tires by driving on them but I don't think that's doable on modern radials.
But I dunno for sure. Let's see what experts have to say.
Have you checked e-Bay for those wheels? That's where I'd look.
And 40K out of a high rolling resistance AT tire? Don't think so. Maybe the new Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo can get you close. UTQG = 500 on that tire. But most AT tires aren't gonna do 40K. Shop carefully.
Tire size Placard inflation pressure Current inflation pressure How much work are you willing to expend to save the cost of new tires? How many miles are you going to put on the vehicle this year?
Better chance of getting more mileage from a HT or similar tire. Something like Michelin LTX M/S. Of course we're assuming proper maintenance and the like.
...will be reduced if you inflate the tires to the max.pressure indicated on the sidewall before storing with wheels on the ground. Just be sure to adjust the pressure before driving it when you get back. Better yet, put the car on jackstands and take all of the weight off of the tires when storing.
I know of a major vehicle manufacturer that ships vehicles world wide using 60 psi in the tires. The receiving dealer is expected to adjust the pressures back down to where they should be.
My recommendations for preventing flat spots: (Please see notes at the end!)
A vehicle that is going to sit idle for a month or 2 - just make sure the inflation pressure is set to the placard inflation, before you park it.
A vehicle that is going to sit idle for 3 to 4 months - inflate tires to max inflation on sidewall OR 5 psi above the placard, WHICHEVER IS GREATER. Don't drive on this except the one trip to where it is to be parked.
A vehicle that is going to sit idle for 4 to 6 months - inflate to 15 psi above max inflation on sidewall. Do this in place if at all possible, otherwise just the one SHORT trip!
A vehicle that is going to sit idle for more than 6 months - Remove tires from vehicle and store in a plastic bag filled with nitrogen in a cool, dark place with the tire completely deflated and stacked sidewall to sidewall, and if possible, with spacers between the wheels, so the tires are not in contact with anything except the bag they are in and the wheel they are mounted on. This last recommendation is a bit involved, but the more you can do on the list, the better!
A vehicle that is going to sit for more than 6 years - Don't bother with the tires. Mount new ones before you start it up and throw the old ones away.
If you have any 2 of the following conditions, use the recommendation for the next longer time frame.
Temperatures over 90F Parking on blacktop or other dark surface Parking area cooled to more than 20F below outside temperature (like an air conditioned garage) Vehicle driven more than 30 miles before parking Vehicle driven faster than 70 mph before parking Vehicles that are not empty when parked
I have 2002 suburban. Have had tire wear from the begining. Had alignment check at 10k. Was told it was off a bit. Roatated tires and continue to have wear inside and cupping. has been aligned twice since new and now at 30k miles. My old '92 Sub has over 250k on it with one rebuild. It is not wearing tires. Inside cupping..... Where is the problem?
1) I hate to quibble, but it takes a few thousand miles for tire wear to manifest itself, unless the alignment is WAY off. Perhaps a better explanation of what was noticed in the early stages would help in the diagnosis.
2) IMHO, vehicle manufacturer's specs for alignment are too wide by a factor of 2. I know this to be true for toe, but it is hard for me to get reliable data for camber and caster. Modern radial tires need to be aligned for toe within 1/32 of an inch of the nominal PER SIDE (that's about 0.15 degrees.) This is the tolerance, not the target value.
3) Once a wear pattern is developed on a tire, it can sometimes take quite a bit of time for the "old" wear pattern to wear away. Sometimes you will never get rid of it.
Since you are apparently still on the original tires, I wonder...
a) Is it a vibration that is leading you to believe that tire wear is the issue?
b) Perhaps a new set of tires will "fix" the problem.
c) What is different between your '92 Sub and your '02? Driver? Load capacity? - these things came with quite a wide variety of tire sizes depending on the GVW of the vehicle. How about the basic usage for each one - grocery getter vs work truck - that kind of thing?
Actually, I thought the original MINI had 10" wheels, not 12". The current MINI comes with 15", 16" or 17" but some people have, of course, already put 18" and even 19" wheels on them.
The article seems to imply that performance all seasons are good on snow. I find that to be a bit of a joke that most owners of performance 'all seasons' will also find funny. See how far you get on 250mm wide perf [non-permissible content removed] tires with 4" of snow and ice on the road!
My understanding is that a high-performance all-season tire is not as good in they dry as a summer performance tire, and not as good as a standard all-season in the wet/bad weather. It's a compromise between the two, and definately not the holy grail of tires. What it does give you is better performance than an all-season, and better wet traction than a summer tire.
Hey all. Anyone have any information on these tires? I put a set of them on my Corolla this evening and so far, they seem to ride nicely. It was a choice between these and Continental LX's, which I put on the wife's car in January. I know it's a little late for any advise, but any comments are welcome. Bret, if you're out there, some feedback please!
Again, thanks! The Corolla rides much better now and with the alignment I had done, I can really feel the dufference. I guess now that's 2 dinners I owe you when you get down to South Florida, u da man! Thanks again bud.
To the best of my knowledge, the original Mini Cooper had 10" tires and the MG1100 (another BMC mini; fancier than the Cooper) definitely had 12" tires. I owned a 1967 MG1100 and it was one of the most fun cars to drive I ever had. A sports car with a metal roof.. Slightly underpowered (68 HP) but cornered like on rails..
Just returned from a trip to New Orleans and Florida and spent more than 1000 miles at speed in rain and then 100 miles in yesterday's snow storm in NJ, NY, and Conn. On Yokohama's Avid V4 tires with approx. 12,000 miles of wear. Awesome in the rain and usable in the snow. I was passing many 4-wheel drive SUV's @ 40 MPH in snow on the insterstates with a rear wheel drive car. Excellent tires..
Bret, you live in Florida? I was in Ft. Myers and Cocoa Beach; was I close?
I think the HTR+ is a fine tire for the price. Strong rumor has it that its casing is the same as the Dunlop SP5000. So it has the foundation of a very good tire.
Not only do I love the Mini's in the Italian Job but I loved that bus transporter they had. Great car flick!!
...are they any good. Thinking of putting them on our 78 Horizon (ok stop laughing now) which came with 165-75R13 tires, and later models have 165-80R13 tires, both of these sizes are hard to find and wear out quickly as they are so skinny. The CONCORDE at SAMS are 185-70R13, they are about the same diameter as what came with the car, and the car has 4.5 inch wide rims and the rim width chart says its ok. I have concerns about clearance and the quality of the tires. Help?
The 185/70-13 is 23.05" tall, a negligable difference. A 175/70-13 is .1" shorter, another very minor difference - either size will work.
The Tire Rack has the Dunlop SP40 A/S, Yokohama Avid T4 and Avid Touring, all great tires for under $40 each (in 185/70-13), just for info. I'm a Sam's Club and Costco member, too, but I've yet to beat the Tire Rack on prices.
Comments
It comes down to uneven wear of the tread surface.
Any opinions? I'll probably ask the dealer for its opinion on my next visit.
I don't know of anyone who has proven these marks cause a problem, but it is so very difficult to get good, reliable data on the subject. Tires have been tested with these marks and the results have been satisfactory. But these are lab tests and the real world might not be the same.
Hope this helps.
It's a convenience feature, I believe, since I've dropped the spare tires with just the little stopper and cable - a cage would make it easier to control.
With the Sedona, though, blue, you've got roadside assistance - it isn't like you'll have to touch it or use the spare for very long....
What is contributing to the harsh ride is 1) High speed rated tires, 2) Cold weather, and 3) low aspect ratio.
Here what will generally help improve ride - the opposite of the 3 above, AND a larger tire, larger meaning more load carrying capacity so the inflation pressure can be reduced.
The problem is the amount of room in the fender well. Unfortunately, I do not know of a chart or book that lists what the limitations are for every vehicle. You will probably have to do the research yourself. Remember - the worst condition is fully turned, fully compressed.
However, generally you can go one "size" up without problems. That means out in width by 10 (the first number in the size), P225/55R17, or up in aspect ratio 5 (the second number), P215/60R17. Either of these is going to have speedometer error of about 1 1/2%, which is OK so long as you are aware you are going faster than indicated. But be sure to check the clearances.
One additional thought: The Altima also comes with 16" tires, which opens more options.
Hope this helps.
Anyway, the Regatta should do pretty well. Also consider Cooper Lifeliner Touring SLE which has received some good reviews for snow traction. Or you could go with a "4 season specialty" (my terminology) tire from Nokian. The Nokian NRT2 comes in 205/70-15 which I think is your size.
"Ya get caught in a blizzard and your tires are bald - UFF DA"
Thank you guys ... Norbert
If you lose the "key" you're in trouble - no two ways around that. Don't lose they key.
I've never seen any balance problems because the locking lug nuts don't weigh much different than regular lug nuts. Since the lug nuts are so close to the center of the wheels, it won't make much difference, anyway.
A neat way to go is the new "all lock" lug nut systems that use slim nuts with matching patterns inside - all the lugs are locks.
I must say after 5K miles I love these Dunlop Sports - especially in wet weather. They are also quieter in all conditions. I am sure I will not get as many miles with them but only time will tell.
Maybe someone else will comment on these tires in regard to the frozen stuff.
mike1qaz
Mike, I used to live in New Orleans and loved Mardi Gras, great party!
The Sandman :-)
Dry handling is the same, wet traction is better (could just be that they are new), road noise and ride comfort are noticeably better.
They are too new to get any idea of tire wear, but the treadwear rating was a bit higher than the Pilots. In my application, I could get them installed for ~$90 each, compared to ~$190 apiece for the Michelins. I have been very pleased thus far.
But I dunno for sure. Let's see what experts have to say.
And 40K out of a high rolling resistance AT tire? Don't think so. Maybe the new Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo can get you close. UTQG = 500 on that tire. But most AT tires aren't gonna do 40K. Shop carefully.
How about some details?
Tire size
Placard inflation pressure
Current inflation pressure
How much work are you willing to expend to save the cost of new tires?
How many miles are you going to put on the vehicle this year?
My recommendations for preventing flat spots: (Please see notes at the end!)
A vehicle that is going to sit idle for a month or 2 - just make sure the inflation pressure is set to the placard inflation, before you park it.
A vehicle that is going to sit idle for 3 to 4 months - inflate tires to max inflation on sidewall OR 5 psi above the placard, WHICHEVER IS GREATER. Don't drive on this except the one trip to where it is to be parked.
A vehicle that is going to sit idle for 4 to 6 months - inflate to 15 psi above max inflation on sidewall. Do this in place if at all possible, otherwise just the one SHORT trip!
A vehicle that is going to sit idle for more than 6 months - Remove tires from vehicle and store in a plastic bag filled with nitrogen in a cool, dark place with the tire completely deflated and stacked sidewall to sidewall, and if possible, with spacers between the wheels, so the tires are not in contact with anything except the bag they are in and the wheel they are mounted on. This last recommendation is a bit involved, but the more you can do on the list, the better!
A vehicle that is going to sit for more than 6 years - Don't bother with the tires. Mount new ones before you start it up and throw the old ones away.
If you have any 2 of the following conditions, use the recommendation for the next longer time frame.
Temperatures over 90F
Parking on blacktop or other dark surface
Parking area cooled to more than 20F below outside temperature (like an air conditioned garage)
Vehicle driven more than 30 miles before parking
Vehicle driven faster than 70 mph before parking
Vehicles that are not empty when parked
Hope this helps.
Steve, Host
Where is the problem?
1) I hate to quibble, but it takes a few thousand miles for tire wear to manifest itself, unless the alignment is WAY off. Perhaps a better explanation of what was noticed in the early stages would help in the diagnosis.
2) IMHO, vehicle manufacturer's specs for alignment are too wide by a factor of 2. I know this to be true for toe, but it is hard for me to get reliable data for camber and caster. Modern radial tires need to be aligned for toe within 1/32 of an inch of the nominal PER SIDE (that's about 0.15 degrees.) This is the tolerance, not the target value.
3) Once a wear pattern is developed on a tire, it can sometimes take quite a bit of time for the "old" wear pattern to wear away. Sometimes you will never get rid of it.
Since you are apparently still on the original tires, I wonder...
a) Is it a vibration that is leading you to believe that tire wear is the issue?
b) Perhaps a new set of tires will "fix" the problem.
c) What is different between your '92 Sub and your '02? Driver? Load capacity? - these things came with quite a wide variety of tire sizes depending on the GVW of the vehicle. How about the basic usage for each one - grocery getter vs work truck - that kind of thing?
Hope this helps.
Steve, Host
The article seems to imply that performance all seasons are good on snow. I find that to be a bit of a joke that most owners of performance 'all seasons' will also find funny. See how far you get on 250mm wide perf [non-permissible content removed] tires with 4" of snow and ice on the road!
Bret, if you're out there, some feedback please!
The Sandman :-)
http://www.bridgestone-firestone.com/news/consumer/news/2002/0211- 11a.html
http://www.bridgestone-firestone.com/news/consumer/news/010207a.h- tml
Seems like a Bridgestone version to your Continentals. Sounds a like good choice for the Corolla.
I guess now that's 2 dinners I owe you when you get down to South Florida, u da man!
Thanks again bud.
The Sandman :-)
Just returned from a trip to New Orleans and Florida and spent more than 1000 miles at speed in rain and then 100 miles in yesterday's snow storm in NJ, NY, and Conn. On Yokohama's Avid V4 tires with approx. 12,000 miles of wear. Awesome in the rain and usable in the snow. I was passing many 4-wheel drive SUV's @ 40 MPH in snow on the insterstates with a rear wheel drive car. Excellent tires..
Bret, you live in Florida? I was in Ft. Myers and Cocoa Beach; was I close?
So who's the pro, Bret or Capriracer? What's your opinion on Sumitomo HTR+ tires?
I think the HTR+ is a fine tire for the price. Strong rumor has it that its casing is the same as the Dunlop SP5000. So it has the foundation of a very good tire.
Not only do I love the Mini's in the Italian Job but I loved that bus transporter they had. Great car flick!!
The Tire Rack has the Dunlop SP40 A/S, Yokohama Avid T4 and Avid Touring, all great tires for under $40 each (in 185/70-13), just for info. I'm a Sam's Club and Costco member, too, but I've yet to beat the Tire Rack on prices.