I may be repeating info that is already here, but just in case it's not, this is an excerpt from a tire question I responded to. After I finished it I couldn't bear to post it in just one place. So, here it is, hope it's useful to someone -
Tire size 235/50's. The second number (55,50,etc) is a percentage of the tread surface width (215,225,235,etc) and represents the height of the sidewall, which affects the actual diameter of the tire, which affects the accuracy of the speedometer, odometer and other computer function calculations.
The OE tire 215/55 has a sidewall height of 118.25 millimeters (215 x .55 = 118.25). I did the math backwards and came to this, 118.25 / .50 = 236.5. So, a tire with width of 235 x .50 = 117.5, which is as close a match as you can get with a different size tire.
.....tread wear rating of 500 (almost twice most others). That can be good or bad, because it generally means harder rubber, which can mean more road noise and less traction. Or it could mean they have really good rubber technology that makes it last. Or it could mean they use a really poor tire as their reference point. The number is somewhat subjective, because, even though the test itself is standardized, each manufacturer chooses their own tire as the reference point against which to compare their other tires. Heat dissipation and traction are both rated A, which is the best. And that generally means softer (or at least, not so hard) rubber.
I'd like to know where you posted this, because I surf the net daily and haven't encountered this response. One of the reasons I do this is inform and readjust people's "facts". Sorry, but I'm going to do that to your post:
The aspect ratio is applied to the maximum overall width of the tire (excluding ornamentation, such as raised white letters), not the tread surface.
Be aware that the size is more like a name, rather than dimensions. For example a P205/65R15 has the nominal dimensions of 209 mm wide, a nominal aspect ratio of 66.2, and a rim diameter of -- uh, -- well, it varies, but it's about 14.97". But go ahead and use the calculators that are available on the net. The "dimensions" are not cast in stone and tire manufacturers sometimes use different dimensions.
Word of caution on the tire size calculators: When these calculators go to calculate revolutions per mile or any other thing where they try to relate the diameter to rolling distance, the calculators generally are off about 3%. This is because the actual rolling diameter of the tire is where the top belt is, not where the top of the tread is. I know this seems counter-intuitive, but it's the way it is!
Also, UTQG tread wear rating MUST!!!!! be traceable to the standard tire. The standard tire is a tire used to compare traction on various surfaces and between many types of tires. It is carefully made and stored, because most every traction test depends on these tires being consistent and dependable. The standard tire is produced every 3 years or so and the tires are stored in a salt mine due to the stable conditions. The new batch of tires is tested against the old batch and the figures are adjusted accordingly. I believe Uniroyal is the manufacturer of the standard tire.
BTW, on the UTQG treadwear rating, the Feds can request the data and the tire manufacturer has to justify the rating. It is not subjective, however, there are a lot of games that can be played with the figures.
If the bumps are indents that go from the rim to the tread in a radial direction - those are OK. Those are just the overlapped areas of the plies. You can find at least one for every ply that you have.
Other bulges may or may not be a problem, it depends on what they are. Have someone at a tire shop look at them.
This is what I was talking about - the calculator uses the overall diameter to compute the revs per mile - sorry, the value there is about 3% too low. Check out Tire Rack and see for yourself!
However, for comparing 2 different tire sizes - close enough!
I am buying a new 2003 Accord LX Coupe this week and just ordered some wheels and tires this morning from www.tires.com. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I can sell the original equipement wheels and tires and how much I could get for them? I need to move them quickly to get the money and also I just don't have room to have them cluttering up my garage.
my e-mail response to you got returned. Glad you ordered your tire/wheel package.
Ebay is definitely the ticket. Figure $80 shipping for all four, take a couple of good digital photos with the wheel and tires all cleaned up - you'll have better success with selling the set versus breaking them down.
Opinion please, replacing original Michelins on 98 outback. After checking various sites narrowed down to Cooper lifeliner STE or Goodyear Regatta. Good choice? or? Looking for quality and quiteness. TIA
Thanks again for your help. Assuming I have less than 100 miles on the tires, what would be a fair price to expect for a set of 4 stock wheels and tires if I pay the shipping. The only tires I have seen on the Accords are usually Turanza's but I have seen a few Michelins also. Should I set a reserve amount on EBay. How much? I was thinking $400 shipped. Is that too low? too high?
call your Honda dealer and get a price on a replacement wheel. Use half of that (x4), plus half the cost of a tire (on tires.com or tire rack). Don't include shipping in the price - list it separately, in case you have someone who is local that wants to pick them up.
Make SURE you reference the cost of wheels and tires (new) in your ebay ad.
I've bought a set of wheels and sold a set of wheels and tires on ebay - both transactions ended up being within 30 miles of my house!
I have a 2000 OB wagon, and just put on Michelin MXV4+s. Original Firestone Wilderness tires had 36K with about 20-25% of tread left but grip was down to less than my comfort level.
I have had MXV4s on my '94 Lincoln Mark VIII since it was new (they were OEM on that car) and have been pleased with handling, quietness, wear, and dry and wet traction. Not much experience with snow handling, though, as the Mark's RWD and massive power are already negatives in snow/ice, so I rarely took that car out in the snow.
I have seen comments on the MXV4s' snow handling as anywhere from "ghastly" to "average" to "outstanding." I figured that I'd just have to find out for myself -- I live in Delaware where we don't usually get massive snow (well, except for this year) and the OB is AWD, and 99% of my miles will be in non-snow/ice conditions. If they turn out to be really poor in the snow/ice, then I might look into dedicated snow tires for the eight or nine weeks a year serious winter weather is possible. (Gee, never had this concern the seven years I lived in South Mississippi!).
Yeah the EX-V6 automatic has 16" wheels and EX-V6 with M/T has 17" wheels. I am getting the LX 4 banger with the 15" wheels and 205/65 R15 tires. I bought some 17" wheels and need to sell the stock wheels and tires. I am picking up the car Monday and my new wheels will be here Thursday.....should be less than 100 miles on OEM tires. Are you interested?
I am considering purchasing 4 used wheels and tires from a guy here in town. The wheels are the standard 5 spoke alloy wheels for an '01 VW Golf/Jetta. The tires are the Michelin Pilot HX MXM4's. I think both have about 18,000 miles of use on them. He is asking around $550 for everthing.
Any thoughts on the wheels, quality (or lack of quality) of the Michelin's? Also, is this a fair price? If at all possible, I need responses ASAP. Thanks.
I'm sure the wheels will be fine but check them closely for damage.
The tires are another story. The Pilot MXM4 is a fine tire but with 18K on them, they're pretty much wasted. It was never known as a long lasting tire anyway. If the tires had 1800 miles on them, I'd have a different opinion.
I think you should consider this a wheel purchase with a set of used tires thrown in. And $550 seems a bit high for used VW wheels.
thanks bretfraz. i'll keep that in mind! does anyone else have an opinion to share. see post #2695 (just 2 posts before this one). any thoughts/comments are welcome!
Agree with bretfraz - tires are useless at that mileage (maybe $10 each MAX). Rims - find from your VW dealer how much they retail for, and offer half of that. Subtract for any blemishes/scratches.
just an anectdotal story. have a 12 year old low mileage(28k) mustang gt with z rated goodyear tires(55 series). keep close track of tire pressure, rotated a couple of times. they still look great(even on the back side), 40-50%(?) tread left, but are a pretty hard ride until they warm up. very scary with ANY moisture under them. guessing that high speed rated tires are made from better compounds, which lasts longer than cheaper rubber. btw; am human and have blown some pretty good smoke shows with them(only a few). take the car up to least at least a buck every year.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
Does anyone have any knowledge of Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radials? Im looking into getting a set of 33x12.5's for a 2003 Wrangler. Currently have 30x9.5 Goodyears with 8x10 factory wheels. How is the tread life, and also would i need to get new wheels for the claws? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, OregonTJ03
"guessing that high speed rated tires are made from better compounds, which lasts longer than cheaper rubber."
Well...uh... no!
Stickier, yes. And in all likelihood, stickier equates to more rapid tread wear, which means less exposure to the elements, which means, uh, not lasting as long..sort of.
One last thought. If those are the original tires on that Mustang, GET RID OF THEM ASAP!!! Tires deteriorate with age and the probably of a failure goes up dramatically.
how much lift are you rolling on your TJ? The minimum, not to rub, is 3", with 4-6" recommended.
The Mickey Thompson Baja Claw radial is a great tire, although a little soft in compound. That's great for every aspect of using the tire except wear. I've had several friends with them and they seem to average 25-30K with perfect maintenance. Make sure to keep your pressures accurate - MT tires will develop a bad center wear section if overinflated, even by just a few pounds.
Zueslewis- I live in Lake Oswego Any ways, Im looking into a 3" Teraflex 3T lift from trailquest.com, and getting the tires from quadratec or trailquest. Thanks for for the info, but im still curious as to whether or not i need new rims. I've heard from Les Schwab that i do, but from friends that i don't? Thanks, OregonTJ03
to a 33 X 12.5, right? You definitely need a 8.5 to 10" wheel. 10" wheels look and work great with a 33 X 12.5 tire.
A good wheel to use, that'll also be easy on your wallet is the black "rockcrawler" series by American Racing or Porgressive - they have a cool-looking beadlock rim that really compliments agressive tires.
The 3" lift should work fine.
Check out www.tirerack.com and www.tires.com (Discount Tire).
Also, check out the vendors in Petersen's Four Wheel Drive and Off-Road or Four Wheeler magazines - they have some great tire and wheel deals and most vendors are Mickey Thompson dealers.
I worked and lived in Aloha - I ran the Super Shops in Beaverton, then became a regional manager for them. Left in late '97.
See my original post at #2695 just a few posts back, but I purchased the used wheels/tires. They look great, and the wheels seem alright, but I think the tires are bad.
When I am driving and approaching a stop, as the car slows, I hear a heavy grinding-like (it sounds really "heavy") noise. Also, there is a slight vibration in the cabin as I slow. Does anyone know what this is?
You had several replies that the tires were gonna be trashed at 18,000 miles, so start shopping.
I'm assuming the wheels were indeed off another '01 Golf and the offset, etc. is identical. I'm also assuming that you didn't have any other work done during the switch, like a brake job.
The vibration sounds like a balance, or possibly an alignment issue. Or one of the new wheels is bad?
That does sound bad, and I haven't heard it. Prolly not due to the new wheels unless something is rubbing against something else. Did you have the brakes inspected/cleaned/something?
The vibration, do you feel it under braking in the steering wheel or brake pedal? If so that's the classic telltale of warped rotors.
If you can feel the vibration while coasting (pop the car out of gear and let it coast in neutral to eliminate driveline vibrations) then its prolly cupped or feathered tires (told ya they were gonna be wasted) or an out of balance tire. Did you have the new tires balanced at a good local shop before you installed them?
Thank you all for your feedback. Here are some answers to some of your questions:
The noises I am hearing were not there before I put the wheels/tires on. Also, I did not have any work done on the car during the switch. Therefore, we can assume the wheels and/or the tires are the cause of the noise.
The wheels/tires were from an '01 Jetta. Honestly, I figured the offset, etc ... would be the same. Perhaps I assumed inaccurately.
I can hear the griding noise when the car is in motion, whether I am braking or not. So I am doubtful that I have a brake problem.
I had the tires mounted at a local VW dealership. Then yesterday, I took my car to a reputable tire shop and they balanced and mounted the wheels/tires. They think the tires may be cupped.
You all were right! Looks like I will, at a minimum, need new tires. Any recommendations or any other thoughts?
overall, i agree with you. my situation is not in regard to tread life. i guess i should have been more clear in my description. these are low mileage tires, which are only driven in the may-october part of the calendar and never in the rain(unless it can't be helped). the point i am attempting to make is that they do not exhibit and evidence of dry rot, and still smooth out after about 10-15 minutes of driving. none the less the are about 12 years old. the point i am trying to make is that high performance tires will hold up better calendar wise. don't forget it's father's day not mother's day.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
I have an 02 Suburban 4X4 LT with the stock 16 inch wheels. I have a chance to pick up some Z71 wheels and tires off a new 03 Tahoe. Has anyone made the swap and run into problems? I see no reason it would not work so I thought I would check. Thanks,
i currently have a 99 4runner with 225/75r15...and it looks too small for the suv..i wanted to get bigger tires to match the suv..will 265/70 fit on the suv and will it that take care of the small tire look? i also wanted to get the rugged off-road look w/ the tire. and suggestions on the brand?
Now have the new 17" MB Motoring 747 wheels and the Dunlop SP Sport A2 tires on my new red Accord Coupe...........big improvement. I appreciate your recommendation of the machined wheels. I really like the way they look. I had these same tires on my last Accord and know they are a big improvement over the Michelin Energy Plus and the Bridgestone Turanza.
Now if someone will just buy the OEM tires and rims from Ebay.
I'll bet they look great. I'm "sort of" shopping for wheels and tires for my PT Cruiser GT, but I won't do anything until I find out if DCC is buying it back or they're just sending me a check for my troubles.
From Michelin's website, it appears as if this tire offers incremental/evolutionary improvements over the MXV4 Plus. I have no idea what their product planners are planning, though.
As for the discussion regarding degradation of tires by time instead of mileage, I feel I should point out that most tire defect warranties expire after six years, regardless of mileage. This should tell you something about the life expectancy of the tire.
I have a '99 Toyota RAV4 and am looking to replace the O.E. Goodyear Wrangler HP's. I've heard great things about both of these tires. The BFG is rated excellent overall by CR, while the LTX M/S is rated very good. The consumer comments I've read on the internet, however, seem to give the long-term edge to the Michelin. Does anyone have any advice to offer? I'm wondering if the Michelin LTX M/S is really worth the extra $28 per tire. I'm also slightly interested in the Bridgestone Dueler H/L, although that one entered the race late and is a distant third at this point. I live in a northern climate. Thanks in advance for any advice!
"Regulators say the long-delayed test criteria will increase tire strength, endurance and heat resistance, and will save up to four lives annually and reduce injuries by up to 100."
include being able to run with less than 20 PSI without failure which really is allowing driver's tire negligence to be rewarded but we must try not to be like Ford with the Pinto, deciding that 31 million means 4 lawsuits of $7.6 million a year is acceptable. If they end up with 100 lawsuits they are screwed and even 4 people killed and a hundred maimed for a known problem is too much when you think about it.
I find it amazing that SUVs and vans still don't have to comply to the same regulations for tires as passenger cars, seeing as they are used just like passenger cars in most cases.
It has been two days and I have not heard from the buyer. I am beginning to worry that he will not buy them. Guess I will have to do this all over again.
people are busy, and think about how many days you gave (in your ad) to pay up..
I got all weirded out when I bought Eibach springs for the kid's MR2 last week. I paid through PayPal, and never got a real response, only auto-responses. I never got shipping confirmation or anything.
6 business days later, being very frustrated and wondering what to do, thinking I'd been ripped off for $200, I got a call from my receptionist saying a package had arrived for me.
I still left negative feedback, because I believe that dropping an e-mail is pretty danged simply, and more courteous than anything.
Comments
Tire size 235/50's. The second number (55,50,etc) is a percentage of the tread surface width (215,225,235,etc) and represents the height of the sidewall, which affects the actual diameter of the tire, which affects the accuracy of the speedometer, odometer and other computer function calculations.
The OE tire 215/55 has a sidewall height of 118.25 millimeters (215 x .55 = 118.25). I did the math backwards and came to this, 118.25 / .50 = 236.5. So, a tire with width of 235 x .50 = 117.5, which is as close a match as you can get with a different size tire.
.....tread wear rating of 500 (almost twice most others). That can be good or bad, because it generally means harder rubber, which can mean more road noise and less traction. Or it could mean they have really good rubber technology that makes it last. Or it could mean they use a really poor tire as their reference point. The number is somewhat subjective, because, even though the test itself is standardized, each manufacturer chooses their own tire as the reference point against which to compare their other tires. Heat dissipation and traction are both rated A, which is the best. And that generally means softer (or at least, not so hard) rubber.
Anyway, just a little fyi.
I'd like to know where you posted this, because I surf the net daily and haven't encountered this response. One of the reasons I do this is inform and readjust people's "facts". Sorry, but I'm going to do that to your post:
The aspect ratio is applied to the maximum overall width of the tire (excluding ornamentation, such as raised white letters), not the tread surface.
Be aware that the size is more like a name, rather than dimensions. For example a P205/65R15 has the nominal dimensions of 209 mm wide, a nominal aspect ratio of 66.2, and a rim diameter of -- uh, -- well, it varies, but it's about 14.97". But go ahead and use the calculators that are available on the net. The "dimensions" are not cast in stone and tire manufacturers sometimes use different dimensions.
Word of caution on the tire size calculators: When these calculators go to calculate revolutions per mile or any other thing where they try to relate the diameter to rolling distance, the calculators generally are off about 3%. This is because the actual rolling diameter of the tire is where the top belt is, not where the top of the tread is. I know this seems counter-intuitive, but it's the way it is!
Also, UTQG tread wear rating MUST!!!!! be traceable to the standard tire. The standard tire is a tire used to compare traction on various surfaces and between many types of tires. It is carefully made and stored, because most every traction test depends on these tires being consistent and dependable. The standard tire is produced every 3 years or so and the tires are stored in a salt mine due to the stable conditions. The new batch of tires is tested against the old batch and the figures are adjusted accordingly. I believe Uniroyal is the manufacturer of the standard tire.
BTW, on the UTQG treadwear rating, the Feds can request the data and the tire manufacturer has to justify the rating. It is not subjective, however, there are a lot of games that can be played with the figures.
Hope this helps.
2. Will a 225/55 tire fit on my 16" 6.5"x16" with a +55mm offset? (OEM Size is 205/60/16)
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc
Helped me understand alittle more about tires.
Best Regards, Philip
Other bulges may or may not be a problem, it depends on what they are. Have someone at a tire shop look at them.
Hope this helps.
However, for comparing 2 different tire sizes - close enough!
Ebay is definitely the ticket. Figure $80 shipping for all four, take a couple of good digital photos with the wheel and tires all cleaned up - you'll have better success with selling the set versus breaking them down.
Make SURE you reference the cost of wheels and tires (new) in your ebay ad.
I've bought a set of wheels and sold a set of wheels and tires on ebay - both transactions ended up being within 30 miles of my house!
I have a 2000 OB wagon, and just put on Michelin MXV4+s. Original Firestone Wilderness tires had 36K with about 20-25% of tread left but grip was down to less than my comfort level.
I have had MXV4s on my '94 Lincoln Mark VIII since it was new (they were OEM on that car) and have been pleased with handling, quietness, wear, and dry and wet traction. Not much experience with snow handling, though, as the Mark's RWD and massive power are already negatives in snow/ice, so I rarely took that car out in the snow.
I have seen comments on the MXV4s' snow handling as anywhere from "ghastly" to "average" to "outstanding." I figured that I'd just have to find out for myself -- I live in Delaware where we don't usually get massive snow (well, except for this year) and the OB is AWD, and 99% of my miles will be in non-snow/ice conditions. If they turn out to be really poor in the snow/ice, then I might look into dedicated snow tires for the eight or nine weeks a year serious winter weather is possible. (Gee, never had this concern the seven years I lived in South Mississippi!).
Good luck with whatever you go with!
--K9Leader
I think EBay is your best bet - shouldn't be too difficult to sell them there. Good luck!
Any thoughts on the wheels, quality (or lack of quality) of the Michelin's? Also, is this a fair price? If at all possible, I need responses ASAP. Thanks.
The tires are another story. The Pilot MXM4 is a fine tire but with 18K on them, they're pretty much wasted. It was never known as a long lasting tire anyway. If the tires had 1800 miles on them, I'd have a different opinion.
I think you should consider this a wheel purchase with a set of used tires thrown in. And $550 seems a bit high for used VW wheels.
Just my opinion.....
have a 12 year old low mileage(28k) mustang gt with z rated goodyear tires(55 series).
keep close track of tire pressure, rotated a couple of times.
they still look great(even on the back side), 40-50%(?) tread left, but are a pretty hard ride until they warm up.
very scary with ANY moisture under them.
guessing that high speed rated tires are made from better compounds, which lasts longer than cheaper rubber.
btw; am human and have blown some pretty good smoke shows with them(only a few). take the car up to least at least a buck every year.
OregonTJ03
Well...uh... no!
Stickier, yes. And in all likelihood, stickier equates to more rapid tread wear, which means less exposure to the elements, which means, uh, not lasting as long..sort of.
One last thought. If those are the original tires on that Mustang, GET RID OF THEM ASAP!!! Tires deteriorate with age and the probably of a failure goes up dramatically.
Hope this helps.
how much lift are you rolling on your TJ? The minimum, not to rub, is 3", with 4-6" recommended.
The Mickey Thompson Baja Claw radial is a great tire, although a little soft in compound. That's great for every aspect of using the tire except wear. I've had several friends with them and they seem to average 25-30K with perfect maintenance. Make sure to keep your pressures accurate - MT tires will develop a bad center wear section if overinflated, even by just a few pounds.
Good looking tire for your Jeep, too.
Any ways, Im looking into a 3" Teraflex 3T lift from trailquest.com, and getting the tires from quadratec or trailquest. Thanks for for the info, but im still curious as to whether or not i need new rims. I've heard from Les Schwab that i do, but from friends that i don't? Thanks,
OregonTJ03
A good wheel to use, that'll also be easy on your wallet is the black "rockcrawler" series by American Racing or Porgressive - they have a cool-looking beadlock rim that really compliments agressive tires.
The 3" lift should work fine.
Check out www.tirerack.com and www.tires.com (Discount Tire).
Also, check out the vendors in Petersen's Four Wheel Drive and Off-Road or Four Wheeler magazines - they have some great tire and wheel deals and most vendors are Mickey Thompson dealers.
I worked and lived in Aloha - I ran the Super Shops in Beaverton, then became a regional manager for them. Left in late '97.
When I am driving and approaching a stop, as the car slows, I hear a heavy grinding-like (it sounds really "heavy") noise. Also, there is a slight vibration in the cabin as I slow. Does anyone know what this is?
Thanks!
I'm assuming the wheels were indeed off another '01 Golf and the offset, etc. is identical. I'm also assuming that you didn't have any other work done during the switch, like a brake job.
The vibration sounds like a balance, or possibly an alignment issue. Or one of the new wheels is bad?
Steve, Host
The vibration, do you feel it under braking in the steering wheel or brake pedal? If so that's the classic telltale of warped rotors.
If you can feel the vibration while coasting (pop the car out of gear and let it coast in neutral to eliminate driveline vibrations) then its prolly cupped or feathered tires (told ya they were gonna be wasted) or an out of balance tire. Did you have the new tires balanced at a good local shop before you installed them?
The noises I am hearing were not there before I put the wheels/tires on. Also, I did not have any work done on the car during the switch. Therefore, we can assume the wheels and/or the tires are the cause of the noise.
The wheels/tires were from an '01 Jetta. Honestly, I figured the offset, etc ... would be the same. Perhaps I assumed inaccurately.
I can hear the griding noise when the car is in motion, whether I am braking or not. So I am doubtful that I have a brake problem.
I had the tires mounted at a local VW dealership. Then yesterday, I took my car to a reputable tire shop and they balanced and mounted the wheels/tires. They think the tires may be cupped.
You all were right! Looks like I will, at a minimum, need new tires. Any recommendations or any other thoughts?
my situation is not in regard to tread life.
i guess i should have been more clear in my description.
these are low mileage tires, which are only driven in the may-october part of the calendar and never in the rain(unless it can't be helped).
the point i am attempting to make is that they do not exhibit and evidence of dry rot, and still smooth out after about 10-15 minutes of driving.
none the less the are about 12 years old.
the point i am trying to make is that high performance tires will hold up better calendar wise.
don't forget it's father's day not mother's day.
Perhaps I didn't make myself clear:
Dry rot or no dry rot, they are 12 years old. Replace them ASAP!
For background, I am headed into work, and I guarantee I will examine at least one tire older than 10 years with a failure for no apparent reason.
What I am trying to say is that age is factor in tire durability and anything over 10 years ought to be replaced for safety's sake.
"the point i am trying to make is that high performance tires will hold up better calendar wise."
I disagree. I find no reason for high performance tires to be less affected by age that regular tires, and in some respects, more reasons.
Hope this helps.
thanks
Is this going to come in more sizes and is it going to replace the Energy MXV4 Plus? Has anyone tried it yet?
Now if someone will just buy the OEM tires and rims from Ebay.
As for the discussion regarding degradation of tires by time instead of mileage, I feel I should point out that most tire defect warranties expire after six years, regardless of mileage. This should tell you something about the life expectancy of the tire.
U.S. Issues Rules for Tire Testing (MSN Money)
Steve, Host
Maybe if people would pay a little attention to their tires, we could avoid this pervasive and costly nannyism.
What a load.
I find it amazing that SUVs and vans still don't have to comply to the same regulations for tires as passenger cars, seeing as they are used just like passenger cars in most cases.
I got all weirded out when I bought Eibach springs for the kid's MR2 last week. I paid through PayPal, and never got a real response, only auto-responses. I never got shipping confirmation or anything.
6 business days later, being very frustrated and wondering what to do, thinking I'd been ripped off for $200, I got a call from my receptionist saying a package had arrived for me.
I still left negative feedback, because I believe that dropping an e-mail is pretty danged simply, and more courteous than anything.