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In general, are they considered a good tire or shoud I consider different tires for replacement?
We discussed the leather seat wear issue, and the sunroof popping sound issue, and he was aware of both problems. He claims the 1999 and 2000 models had most of the problems, but that the leather is better starting in 2001, and that the sunroofs don't pop anymore starting in 2001.
She's still lovin' it. Thinks it's soooo cute. Of course, she doesn't pay the monthly bill! That ain't so cute...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Thank you.
More discussion about this here in "Aftermarket and Accessories" under "Tires Tires Tires" thread.
The dealer kept on underinflating the tires, probably thinking that I needed extra soft ride. Maybe that did it.
I believe you will enjoy the Dueler H/L as it is more performance oriented, making your 300 mile trips at ~100 MPH safer, if indeed that word can be used for such a trip ;-)
Any suggestions?
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
For those with RX300 shop manuals.
Parts required:
1. Zettler minature "dip" relay P/N AZ830-2C-12DSE
2. 2k ohm 1/4 resister
3. 1N4007 diode
The N.O. relay contacts when closed "shunt" the 2k resistor across the rear axle heighth sensor between it's output (green/yellow, pin 18) and it's reference voltage input (black/orange, pin 20). Pin numbers are on the headlight beam level control ECU connector mounted on the firewall just above your right toe when braking.
Relay coil with parallel diode is connected between highbeam combination switch (C17) and 12 volt batetry source. Anode side of diode to connector IE1, (light green/red wire) and emitter side to pin 14 (red/white wire) of "level" ECU connector.
Internal headlamp assembly will now move upwards about one degree, ~4" at 20 feet, with highbeams on. Since Highbeams also move with lowbeam HIDs you will need to adjust the highbeams, only, back down about one degree.
Perhaps you should switch to a T&C in the wintertime so my family can graze in peace.
Oh, sorry, D E E R, Jeff, Not D E A R.
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Don't forget to check tire pressure regularly also.
http://members.roadfly.org/ccie23/627300-R1-14.jpg
Thanks!
The Edmunds Maintenance Guide
I informed them that I wanted to do just what was on my list. Total cost including tax was $79.19.
By avoiding the unnecessary fluid changes etc. I figure I saved at least $250.00. BTW, the loaner was a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe; and it was much nicer than I had anticipated, but I digress. Thanks Edmunds!
Pete
Regards,
Glenn Camp
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
The remaining tires have 35,000 miles of use.
I know that you shouldn't buy just one new tire and leave the other three, making it extremely off balanced.
Can I buy two new tires that stay together in the front or back, instead of buying four new tires?
All that talk about owning a lexus and spending the money that comes with ownership isn't necessary.
Thanks,
Troy
So I put my "brand new" spare along with a newly purchased one of the same brand, size, etc, etc, on the rear wheels and put the "used" one aside as my spare.
The rule of thumb is that you always want greater traction on the rear, not the front.
If your RX is AWD and the other tires have less than 50% of the tread left you might want to check with Lexus before you unbalance the final drive ratio front to rear via the above method.
In my personal opinion it doesn't matter. One, the RXes viscous fluid never "stiffens" enough for the relatively minor (even with one set almost totally worn down) disparate rotational rate F/R to matter. And two, the RX already has a pretty radically different final drive ratio front vs rear. Something on the order of 2.92 vs 3.12.
Has anyone done this before who can give me some tips such as the best place to splice in to the car's harness, colors of the wires for the different lights (I don't have a shop manual/schematic), the best place to get the separate conection from the battery and the best route(s) for the wiring?
I started off by buying the Lexus tow kit. Ended up with the 2001/2002 wiring and converter because the dealer thought my car was manufactured late enough in 2000 (May) that it would be pre-wired. Of course, when I looked for the pigtails in the plastic box under the car and in the cargo area, and for the studs to mount the converter they weren't there. The instructions said the kit was for "Year 2000.8 ~" so I guess that means August 2000 and on for the pre-wiring. I called several dealers but no-one could tell me if the tow hitch kit for the '00 was Class 2 or Class 3 or, if I bought just the wiring kit, what it contained or what was involved. I figured I'd end up splicing anyway so sent the Lexus kit back and went aftermarket (1/2 the price). Does anyone know what the '00 Lexus wiring kit contains? Might it have something similar to T-connectors ?
Thanks, Paul
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?s=cc927bd6be6b7796fcb6c48c0c4df58e&threadid=58248
Last time we had about 17 cars. Out of it 3 RX's.
Pete
And when he does, be sure to read the fine print. Good luck!
-Paul
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/shows/rollover/
I am glad Lexus and MB dont charge a ridiculously higher premium for RX and ML compared to ES and C Class as against Detriot which seems to be making a fool of SUV buyers!
Thanks
I checked back a ways into the messages and it seems that the Michelins are the most popular replacement.
The air recirculate button comes on by it self. Here's the scenario; I'm not running the A/C nor is Auto or Manual mode on..when I park the car in the garage at night, with everything off, and come out at 5:15 in the morning and drive to work everything is fine - the Air Recirculate is OFF - everything is off. I then drive the car to work and it sits in the parking lot all day, in the sun - inside temp - 85 - 100 deg. When I come out (again everything is off as I left it) and start up the car the Air Recirculate button is on all by itself - everything else is OFF (both Auto and Manual)!!. I know it's a minor point as all I have to do is push the button off, but - I don't think the system is working right. Especially when the owners manual recommends that you use the out side air most of the time. The dealer tells me that the system is anticipating that you are going to use the A/C???? I told the dealer that I think the system is thinking with half a brain...I want to be the guy that tells the system what to do. Well any way, I'm dropping the car off for a night and day, taking a "loaner" RX300 and will see how that systems works???
Have any of you RX300 owners out experienced the same problem(?) or is this the way the system should work. If it's designed this way it really doesn't make any sense. Why would only one button come on? I know it's minor but it kind of bugs me that I have to turn the REC button off all the time.
Sometimes I do think the Nippondenso engineers who designed the Lexus climate control system did have only half a brain, between them.
Regretably your dealer is absolutely correct, that is the way the system is designed to operate. In the owners manual they tell YOU to open the rear windows in this circumstance to purge the hot air volume within the cabin. And then they go off and design a system that, otherwise, "traps" the super-heated cabin air.
Anyone with more than half a brain would know that even were you to follow their thinking (anticipating your're going to turn A/C on) bringing cooler outside air in to be further cooled by the A/C would result in much quicker cabin cooldown than their "method".
But the thing that drives me up a wall more than anything is the danged rattles in this vehicle that the Lexus dealer just could never eliminate. Of course it's not the dealer's fault, it's the manufacturer's goof up.
AUTO: Will automatically change air inlet to RECIRCULATE when A/C is turned ON.
MANU: Will not change air inlet when A/C is turned ON.
The default factory setting is AUTO.
Does this mean somebody shoulda been rewiring the CBEST specs instead of worrying about rewiring the Xenons?
Does this mean that occasionally checking in with one's Single Marque Lexus Dealer...the one that's so busy ripping-off customers..could..have...easily...fixed...the "A/C-came-back-on-in-recirc-mode-so-the-windshield's-gonna-fog-up-and-kill-us-all" mode?
Nah, that couldn't be it...could it?