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Comments
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Please post what you find.
Thank You
BoxTrooper
Another thing to try is to adjust the catch on the body of the Truck. This is where the right 1/2 door attaches. It could have moved causing the closure to be loose. It is a metal loop with 2 bolts holding it down (I think). I would first hit both latch locations with spray, the other adjustment probably isn't necessary.
Steve, Host
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After the tire rotation, gradually for most of a week now, the tires are getting much quieter. The Bridgstone guy gave good advice I will try to stay on the 3000 mile rotation plan from now on. I hope they keep getting quieter.
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BTW: after 40K or so miles the tread still has a lot more than half left. I was not expecting such tread life. The Revo is supposed to expose softer rubber as the tire wears, so I expect the tread to start going away more quickly now.
I remember when I purchased my 1999 Trooper new, I neglected to rotate the tires for about 12k miles and they cupped and sounded horrible. After rotating, it took some time before they got somewhat better but never back to normal.
I rotate my tires with every oil change to prevent this from happening again.
CW
I have a 2000 Limited TOD with 63,000 Miles. All maint has been done at regular intervals, except the Tune-up since it is not scheduled till 100k.
When I am on vacation in Nantucket and trolling around in TOD or 4-Low most of the time I seem to get 10 MPG, so it is strange that at home I don't do much better. I removed my roof rack, am going to take the tools out of the back and see if I can get even remotely close to 15 MPG on a tank. I will also have to see if I can find non-oxygenated gas too.
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Make sure your spark plugs and wires are in great shape.
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Make sure your battery is in great shape - measure the voltage both with the engine off and head lights on (12.5V to 13V) and with the engine running and head lights off 14V to 16V to make sure the engine electronics are able to get all the juice they need.
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Next, unhook your battery for at least 30 minutes to reset the engine computer's memory.
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Then for a month or so, use only the highest octane fuel you can find, the difference in price from regular (87 = $1.80 89 = $1.90 and 93 = $2.00) is a smaller fraction of the cost of a gallon than ever since the price is so high these days.
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And see if the computer resets the timing more advanced (the higher octane will prevent pre-ignition with more advance timing that regular), which will give you more power, quicker response and better MPG.
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After this experiment try to go back to mid grade and see if the MPG stays the same.
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My wife would give me a really hard time if I got that low of MPG. I have a 2001 Trooper 5 speed manual and around town usually 17.5 MPG and on the highway 21 mpg at 55mph to 65 mph and 19 mpg at 73 mph. I use 89 or 93 octane at the BJ's club (like a SAMS or CostCo) since they don't offer midgrade. So I want to see if your's can do better than 12 mpg.
Trooper is doing well, except that I am getting that dragging brake sound when starting from a stop, anyone remember what the remedy was for that?
As for tires, love my Pirelli Scorpion ATs in 275-70-16, they are about $100 at TR and my first set lasted me over 50K miles.
-mike
I have thought about changing my plugs, but they only have about 20K on them. I have also considered upgrading the wires but that costs money...I will try these other tricks first.
I have been having this issue with TOD...the dealer thinks it is a speed sensor, however if it isn't that and the transfer case isn't completely disengaging TOD, maybe I am running around with a lot of resistance on the drivetrain causing my mileage to be worse?
I had my PCV and EGR valve cleaned (or at least I paid for the dealer to do it) with not much improvement, probably about 1-2 MPG better...before I was barely breaking 10.
I think it has to be something simple so I am going to start there.
Thanks
Advancing the timing will definitely make a difference in performance and mileage. Just gotta make sure you don's start getting 'pinging'.
I do have a bullbar and 265/70 tires. I assume that with a roof rack would maybe knock me down to 13-14 around town, but I have been getting concerned that 10-11 is just plain bad. I can get a full size truck with a huge V8 and that kind of mileage. Even though 14-15 isn't great it is still another 50 odd miles per tank. The first test is to see what effect removing the roof rack has (I also have a front spoiler on the rack which could be contributing).
If I get 1 mpg better then I will try something else. I run my tire pressure at about 35-36 maybe I should consider 38? That might yeild another mpg?
I can get 19 to 20 on the highway if I drive 60 MPH, it drops when I drive 65-70.
I dunno. I think the long and short of it is you probably shouldn't expect better than 12 MPG around town, especially if you've oversized the tires and added weight and wind resistance.
Now, my 01' on the other hand is a different story. I did all these things to it as well and discovered that my IAT sensor was NOT properly connected. (The plug was upside down to the sensor) When this was corrected, I got about 2 mpg's back.
I just took a 220 mile trip recently and refilled the tank with 10 gallons of gas. I was very satisified with that! The trip was 1/3 interstate at 73 mph and 2/3 secondary state highways at 60 mph. This is the 2WD model and its quite a bit lighter than my 4WD 99'. The performance is quite a bit different as well. I'd swear they were not the same engine if I didn't know better. I bet the 01' produces 30 hp more than the 99'. The acceleration is much quicker in the 01' and it doesn't burn 1/4 the oil that the 99' does.
My '01 2WD LS consistently gets 19-21 mpg using 87 octane on long trips averaging 70-75 mph with the AC blasting. Day-to-day local driving has always been about 15 mpg. That 215-horse 3.5L has plenty of guts, and I agree that overall responsiveness in the 2WD version is very good. It hasn't used the first drop of oil. I'm just south of 40K miles, keep the tires at 34 psi, and still on the original plugs.
IAT = Intake Air Temperature
tidester, host
How about installing manual lockout hubs as a way to prove your theory of possible TOD dragging your MPG down? I think the manual hubs would pay for themselves amny times over if they can get you back up to 17+ MPG combined 50/50 city highway.
I have been noticing lately that the engine almost dies if when cold I put it in gear and go immediately after startup. If I let it idle for 30 seconds then it is fine.
Then last week my idle bounced for about 5 seconds. It hasn't repeated itself. Good thing my warranty just ran out because I have a feeling my IMG might be bad. That could be the root cause of the mileage issue too. Once the engine is warm there it runs fine, but if there is a loss in vacuum that could be reducing MPG also. The almost stalling on first acceleration could be a symptom of the truck losing vacuum?
I am not going to worry about the IMG since the last time it went it took 5 trips to the dealer to get diagnosed and fixed and I wasn't sure they did a good job at the time...$200 +/- to save myself the time, hassle and to get it fixed right it not too much if I get it fixed a month from now when it is really evident.
What do people think about this? Should I just expect it to rust for the next 10 years and not worry about it or should I be agressively sanding and painting?
Rust on the frame or on the body panel?? If its on the frame I wouldn't worry about it. That metal will last longer that we will with a little rust on it. Body panels won't last long if they are rusting. I wouldn't sand and pain body panels, I'd treat them with a rust inhibiting agent and paint them.
I would invest in the kit if I knew it were going to make a noticable difference in fuel mileage.
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Rust on the frame: I sold my 1984 Trooper in 1995 because the rear of the body was no longer attached to the rusty frame. I found out when crossing a ditch on the way to fishing. The drivers's side rear tire rubbed real bad on the wheel well, but the spring was not compressed much and the bumper not near contact. I noteced that the body and frame were far apart on the passenger side, allowing the axle to tilt abnormally and the tire to rub. The frame on the 1984 Trooper started out as a box with the fourth inside side welded on thinner metal. But by this time there was very little left of that fourth side of the frame.
Internationaltango
Now the door closes, but the inside door handle doesn't close all the way, and I cannot undo the child safety lock. When I try to push it up it hits something inside...has anyone fixed this before? I don't want to have to pull the door panel if I don't need to.
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My Trooper was cranking very slowly, the original battery was probably a 36 month type and it has lasted 48 months already, so I did not wait until it would not start, I changed out the battery.
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BCI Battery Size Chart
http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html
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I went to BatteriesPlus and asked for an AGM (AGMs cannot leak because the acid is absorbed in a glass mat, they also have very low internal resistance so the difference between an AGM starting and AGM deep cycle is less than the difference for bucket-of-acid batteries) battery to fill the volume described above. I was sold a 100AH deep cycle battery that has 1000 CCA (typical car starting battery is 44AH and 650 CCA), and can source 300Amps for 5 minutes.
The front pad changeout on the 02' should not be different that the 99'. Its quite easy unless you are going to replace the rotors. If they are 'pulsing' it might be a warped rotor.
I've read all the past posts on changing the serpentine belt, even downloaded the diagram someone was kind enough to link to. Based on the diagram I started loosening one of the pulley bolts (see pic) almost until it fell off (not good). Did some more thinking, then asked a mechanically inclined friend to take a look. He showed me where he thought the tensioning arm should be loosened, but it appears you need socket that inserts into the opening rather than a typical socket that goes around a nut. Is that true? there is a nut that is visible but it only protrudes about 1/16" to an 1/8".
Take a look :
http://members.cox.net/kmcgirl/isuzu.html
Thanks
Tom
That makes more sense. I'll give it a try tonight. I knew it couldn't be hard when folks are saying they could swap it out in minutes.
-Kevin
Tom's instructions are on the money. I changed this belt recently and it was one of the easiest jobs I've done. One thing, make sure you have hlep to thread on the belt while you hold the tensioner. It can be a bit tricky trying to both jobs at one time.
-mike