Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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For sure I would NOT send any money to some "new bank" without having a *written* statement of the loan, including the terms (should be same as negotiated with dealer).
That said, yes it is common that loans can be sold to another bank, It sounds like that may have happened since Bank A no longer (or never did) have any record of you.
This kind of thing is why arranging your own financing can be easier for peace of mind than going through the dealer. When you do it yourself, you know with whom you were dealing and where they're located. If they then sell the loan to someone else, ok, at least you have the record of what the transaction was.
My salespeople use one bank credit application for every customer. They know how to have it completed, so that is why we use it. I may use the same bank contract, and assign it to another bank.
One example: You fill out a credit application provided by Bank One. I submit your credit application to HSBC. I sign you out using a Bank One contract. I then attach an assignment letter to the front of your contract that is sent to HSBC.
Now, you were approved. You may have assumed that I was using Bank One, when in all actuality, I was using HSBC from the start. Could this possibly be a misunderstanding as opposed to fraud?
I understand the frustration, but what does it matter?
I don't know why it would make a difference which bank, just that some people might prefer one bank over another. Guess if that's the case they need to organize their financing themselves and not let the dealer do it.
I check every once in a while to see what the rates are doing and the 3 yr is still 2.9% and the 4/5 year has DROPPED to 4.5%. Crazy considering the Fed has been raising rates.
Also, last week the CU raised the rates on its CDs (or share certificates as they call them). So no I can get a 1 year CD with a 4.4% rate - higher than my car loan.
My CU gives the same rates yours does. When a car loan is 4.49, and I can make 4.49 on a CD - that's when it gets interesting, trying to figure out if it's better to pay cash or to get a loan. It doesn't often happen that rates are so equal, and probably won't last. Usually borrowing costs you more than what you'd earn in savings.
Re home equity lines - personally, I would never use a HELOC unless it was to re-invest in the house in some way, to pay for improvements of some sort. Other than that, I wouldn't treat my house like a piggy bank. That amounts to paying interest twice, first on the original mortgage and then again on the HELOC. Just doesn't make sense to me.
That's just me, because my grand plan involves possibly getting a reverse mortgage on my paid-off house during my "senior years." Or else selling it and moving to a warmer climate or something. Anyway, I don't want to eat up the equity in the house for a depreciating asset like a car. Your Mileage May Vary, of course.
But even so, isn't there a minimum of $400 interest income before you have to declare?
There are rules that if you gross income is lower than the standard deduction or under even funkier rules if someone else can claim you as a dependant then you are not required to file a return.
But generally all interest is taxable for Federal income tax purposes unless it is exempt, such as interest on municipal bonds.
The $400 threshold is only for filing the schedule B, where you list all of the payers and amounts..
regards,
kyfdx
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That is true, all income regardless of the source has to be reported.
There are rules that if you gross income is lower than the standard deduction or under even funkier rules if someone else can claim you as a dependant then you are not required to file a return.
If someone can claim you as a dependent then the deduction rules change but you still may have to file a return. Also note that even if your income is under the standard deduction you may still file to receive a refund if taxes have been withheld from your earnings or if you have certain tax credits that you can claim.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
No it doesn't.
The HELOC is just another loan, with its own interest and its own tax rules. I suggest to use whatever source is the cheapest and no worrying about names or voodoo mathematics.
Now if someone were to make minimum payments on the HELOC and thereby finance a car for 25 years, that would be stupid... but the fault lies in the repayment schedule, not in the fact that it's a HELOC.
-Mathias
Most people will seen no difference in a HELOC loan when it comes to tax rules on interest.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Secondly, if you used funds from a HELCO and to the extent they were NOT used for the maintenance, repair or acquisition of your main home then the allocable interest is an add back for purposes of the AMT (alternative minimum tax)
OK- this public service announcement has ended *yawn*
yes I know and 99% of the cars on the road cost less than $100k (remember I said most people will not notice a difference).
Secondly, if you used funds from a HELCO and to the extent they were NOT used for the maintenance, repair or acquisition of your main home then the allocable interest is an add back for purposes of the AMT
Again most people will not be impacted by AMT (remember I said most people will not notice a difference).
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Wanna tackle the Auto Lease Inclusion amount next *snicker*
I guess I should have looked at my tax statement from my own CU before posting:
"Since XXCU is not required to report dividend earnings of $10.00 or less to the IRS, a Combined Tax Statement has not been issued for your account(s)."
I'll exceed that this year from my CU, though. I'm on pace for TWENTY DOLLARS of interest income from my CU this year. I am RICH!!!!
Tax law can be SOOOO confusing. My wife and I qualified this year for what I assume is a relatively new tax credit on retirement savings. You can, apparently, get 10-50% back on whatever amount you put into retirement savings based on your income/marital status/kids. If I had known about this, I would have put 2-3 times more into my retirement account last year.
Anyway...my advice would be to forget about applying for a loan. You have a mortgage, and three car loans, and alot of other open accounts. And you've already filed for bankruptcy. I don't really see why a loan would help. I think you need to consider that "not an option", and work on getting yourself out of debt the old fashioned way. (Cut up your cards,minimize your spending,pay down your debt,stop borrowing money). :lemon:
Terry.
Cheers!
Congrats to you on working towards getting yourself back on your feet. I wish you much success and hope you have moved passed your medical issues. I am sure you have a new realization of what is truly important.
May the sun always shine upon you and a smile always find your face.
Godspeed.
Centrix is a subprime lender like Onyx, Americredit, and others. I don't know the details, but I think they're similar and competitive to any others.
scores or bankruptcy.... I feel that my monthly payments very high considering my other card payments since 1999 when I got my first used car. I believe they are over priced. I personally do not like the attitude of the people you have to deal with at Centrix.
Presently, I want to refinance and they do not refinance.
1. How long do you guys think I have to wait before our credit scores will reflect our payments?
2. Can anybody tell me how we can purchase a car, if she's the one going to pay but I'll be driving and purchasing the insurance?
I think in CA only name on DMV registration can buy insurance for vehicles...As for my credit score, it'll be just as high as hers I think, because even if I'm not working right now, we are each co-holders of all our accounts.
We've never bought our own cars since we just get the two we have from parents. So will we be getting a first time buyer thingy with a purchase too?
Somebody please help with some info... :confuse:
Thanks!
If you actually have the check "in-hand" - not a draft ... and you can bring it on the day of delivery, then it won't be a problem.
The reason why dealers do this is for their own protection ..... most Credit Unions (not all) only cut checks on certain days .. most Credit Unions (not all) use "drafts", and they can't be deposited and they're not cashable unless the CU gets the title first, so it becomes almost meaningless to the dealer ..... kinda like if your friend owed you $500 and he swears he'll pay you on Tuesday ....
Terry.
The application gives them the authorization to check, if you feel that strong, then dont fill out the application.
But for the very reasons Terry pointed out, be prepared for them not to give you a vehicle.
Obviously, we didn't sign a lease with someone who wouldn't show us how he was calculating the numbers, but want to know what to expect from other dealers :confuse:
--Just look at the statement and move on to another dealership. Would your really want to do business with anyone who quotes how much they will do for you based on the law?
It may vary by state, but I think the only things that actually have to be disclosed:
1) Term/mileage of the lease
2) Monthly payment
3) Amount due at signing
4) Residual amount in USD
The money factor isn't like an APR, as you aren't technically paying interest on the lease (even though it works exactly like that). You are paying a monthly amount to rent the car.
But, all that said.. I agree with the others... If they say they won't tell you, because they don't have to.. I'd go elsewhere.
Regards,
kyfdx
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I would say play it safe and put 30% down.
Also if you plan on keeping the car past the loan term the issue is moot (but you might want gap insurance).
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D