My 94 Trooper quit and the battery was run down. I jumped it but the fan would not work and the dash lights lit up in a dizzying array. The battery guage showed low voltage so I replace the alternator. It started and appeared normal, but the next day it was right back to a light show and no charging. Anyone have any similar experience or know what I might check next? Thanks for any reply.
Did it discharge overnight? Check battery load with the engine off and key out of the ignition. A simple way to see if you are running down the battery overnight is to disconnect the battery over night and see if the problem goes away. .. Is the voltage regulator inside the alternator or separate? .. What is your battery voltage: 1.) with it disconnected? 2.) with it connected, but key out of igition? 3.) with engine off, but headlights on? 4.) with the engine at idle? 5.) with the engine at 2500 RPM? .. Get that data and post it, that will fuel more suggestions.
No, the battery did not discharge overnite. The voltage regulator is inside the alternator. The battery voltage is 12 volts disconnected, same when connected, drops a little with lights on, with engine at idle it is around 11 and same at 2500 RPM. Eventually the voltage drops and the vehicle quits. I replaced the alternator and that ended the problem until the next day, when the dash warning lights (O2, battery,brake) lit up and battery guage showed 12 or less volts, ulike the 14 it had been showing, which is exactly what it was doing before I replaced the first alternator. I guess now I need to figure out if it could be a bad alternator, again, or if I have a bad module or diode or something. Thanks for suggestions, gonna go get my hands dirty on it now.
Hi all...tried a search but no info on this:::: 1999 Trooper. Has worked fine for years but a year ago 4wd quit functioning normally. You press the 4wd button and it appears to engage the 4wd, but it makes a horrible scraping sound, mostly heard when you let off the gas. But it is not a situation where giving it the gas seems to drown out the sound, however it is noticeably much louder when you let off the accelerator. Nice Mystery. It pretty much feels like it is legitimately in 4wd when the switch is pressed on but it is hard to tell as I do not like to leave that switched on very long.
The hungry dealer said it was the "transmission mode switch" and said it is about a $300.00+ USD job to fix, but I find nothing on a search of that name on this forum---maybe it is called something else in real life??
Anyway, I sure would appreciate any suggestions on how to test/fix/replace/LOCATE this part, if this even sounds like the problem. I am guessing it is that assembly that is mounted on the front axle that has all the sensors and hoses attached to it.
More info that may help solve this. I got up under the truck and fiddled with that mess of hoses, I suppose to be the mode switch mentioned in my first post. I pulled off one hose and it hissed. I reconnected it and took the car for a ride and everything on 4wd tod worked fine...but as it built up/or demanded more air pressure through that hose, it started to make the scraping sound again and this again happens only when you let off after first accelerating in 4wd. I repeated this procedure and same thing. Then when stopping and not unhooking the hose to bleed off pressure, it simply stays in scraping mode. Hope this adds some more info to build an insight. Thanks, Keith
Perhaps it is just a loss of vaccuum? While on the gas there is more? You can try cleaning out both sides of the vaccuum hose and checking what it plugs into. It could be very simple.
coolant spray was now apparant - when the mechanic put my timing belt together he put on my main hose from my rad on a little off - the hose was rubbing on a pully of the the belt which threw a hole through it - so the harder I hamered it the more coolant shot out and my engine must have been heating at the high revs - the hole in the hose just wore so bad tonight so that I couldn't drive it and had to duct tape it to get her home - will fix the hose tomorrow and hopefully will be the end of my recent problems - nice that it is a cheap fix.
It was hard to let go of my 99 Trooper that I bought new. It was one of the best vehicles I owned. I needed a little more reserve HP to pull a trailer through the Rocky Mountains and get around all the semi-trucks. The Titan and the Tundra made the my short list. Titan offered more features for the money, however I appreciated how quiet and smooth the Tundra runs along with better gas mileage. My first trip over a mountain pass today, I averaged 20.5 mpg. Not bad for an engine that is running under the break-in period.
I will miss the Trooper Forum. I hope Isuzu can continue a presence in NA..
As stated by bawbcat, there are no hubs. The front wheels are connected to the half-shafts permanently by drive flanges, although one can install manual hubs to disconnect the front shafts. The axle disconnect on the front just engages or disengages a sliding collar that connects the left front wheel to the differential. When TOD is engaged, it just energizes the TOD clutch in the transfer case as well as connecting the front axle.
There is no center differential in this model Trooper. Differential action is provided by slippage in the TOD clutches when in hi. When low is engaged, it just bypasses the TOD and locks the front and rear drivelines together.
Hi All... A cpl of months ago I rear ended someone with my 99 Trooper. The local Isuzu body shop did all the repairs to the front end (bumper, headlights, foglights, hood and so on) but from the day I got it back there is a huge cracking, popping, type sound from the front end whenever I hit small bumps in the road. On the highway it sounds like the front end is cracking everytime you hit a bump. Anyway, took it back to the dealer and after keeping the car two days they said they couldn't hear the sound. Drove on over, took them for a test drive and they were like "oh yeah we hear it now." At the time it was in for repairs I gave them the poly bushings for the sway bars and asked them to install them..they gave me the car back with the bushing on the front sway bar and told me there was no rear sway bar. After some help from this forum I showed them where the rear sway bar was and they installed the bushings. Anyway, then they said the sound under the front end was that the axle needed replacing and of course they and Allstate said "thats normal wear and tear and you need to pay for it". Isuzu quoted $1000.
After fighting with allstate for 4 weeks they have agreed to get it fixed since the car didn't make this noise before the accident. Anyway they told me I could take the car wherever I want including back to the dealer. My questions are:
1. Would you have any faith that the dealer diagnosed the problem properly and that they actually can fix it properly since they couldnt find a sway bar?
2. If not Isuzu, who else would you recommend to fix the problem?
3. Any ideas on anything else that might make that type of sound?
thanks for any thoughts!
PS: The bushing made quite a bit of difference in the handling, should have done them years ago
Aren't you locked into that dealer after all the negotiations? .. I would search for and use another dealer if possible, within a reasonable distance. You can get a second opinion about the sound at any mechanic shop, not just Isuzu. Try the shops that used to be Isuzu, ask to talk to the mechanics that used to work on Isuzu. A million years ago, my mom's Chevy Impala would make a sound like you describe in the front end, it was only while going over a bump with the steering all the way to one side or the other, and the noise was the steering travel stop friction as the suspension flexed. .. This dealer locator link found 5 Isuzu dealer with my zip code. http://www.isuzu.com/dealer_locator.jsp
Turned out that the first alternator, a rebuild, went bad within a few miles, so the exact same symptoms were there for a second time. I replaced the alternator with another, and the Trupr runs fine. Thanks for the help.
Has anyone had a problem with the rear differential vent valve getting stuck closed and not properly venting the axle chamber? I have had it happen on two different Troopers and can't seem to resolve the problem. It causes pressure to build inside and then the fill or drain plug or the front seal starts to leak fluid. Anyone else seen this on their truck?
Were you able to correct the problem, and if so, how?
I put CD-2 in my Mobil 1 oil after about 2500 on the recent change and took a 3000 mile trip to see what results I would get. This was done on my 99' Trooper with about 85000 miles on it, so I was anxious to see the results. The results were dismal. I burned about 1 quart over the 3000 mile trip, which is about the same as BEFORE putting CD-2 in there. I have now drained the old oil out and added fresh Mobil 1 and CD-2 again to see what happens.
I had much better results with my 01' Trooper as reported earlier, but it has 45000 miles on it, which might explain the difference. It also seemed to improve gas mileage performance on the 01', but not on the 99'.
I have a 99 Trooper with 100K on it. I had problems with stall outs at red lights in the past but now it has become more frequent. It even stalled while driving down the highway. I also occasionally get a clucking noise when my automatic transmission changes gears. I am due for a tune up and am not certain if I want to open the can of worms with the service station to try to pin point the problem. I'm wondering if anyone else out there has experienced similar problems and what was done to remedy it.
Heh...I was stoked to only burn 1q per 3000 miles. After doing two CD2 treatments, I went from 1q per 1000 miles to 1 per 3000. However, after not running it for the last two oil changes (Wally World up by my place hasn't been stocking it lately), I've watched consumption slip back downward to about 1q per 1500-2000 miles (with Mobil1).
BTW, Costco usually seems to stock Mobil1 5w30 for about $20/case. It may burn just as fast as dino, but I feel a little bit safer knowing that synthetic has a good track record of continuing to lubricate even when the oil level is way low.
On these Troopers that drink a quart of oil each 1,000 miles have you tried using heavier weight oil like 30 or 40 weight at least in the hot months? Years back that is what we did with the worn out engines.
Be careful about using to thick an oil. Some Troopers like the 3.2L 1995 have small oil passages that can cause a lifter clicking sound with too thick of oil, or with dirty oil. Isuzu itself recommended 0w30 to help with the lifter ticking. .. Where is the oil entering the combustion? Is it leaking past the valve guide seals? Are the rings allowing blow by? Is the oil hitting the back of really hot pistons and vaporizing then being evacuated through the crankcase ventillation? .. I use the redlineoil.com product called Water Wetter to reduce the chance of hot spots in the engine. I think Redline Oil is the best there is, just too expensive to actually use in the engine (I use valvoline because my family always has). I use the Red Line MTL for my manual transmission and Red Line oils in the diffrentials because they don't require frequent changes and do not deplete.
Glad to hear the good report with the CD2. I'm not using it at all right now and I went 3000 miles using only 1 quart. I was using 1 quart every 500 miles before the CD2 treatment. This is definitely the cure to the Isuzu oil consumption problem! I'm using dino 10w30.
Please note that these engines are not using oil due to excessive wear, but due to a design flaw in the piston rings where sludge buildup is not allowing proper function. The CD2 cleans the sludge and allows the rings to function properly. There have other products mentioned on this forum and others that claim to also fix the problem, but I have tried them all and the CD2 was the only one that fixed the problem.
I noticed the 3.2L engine turns about 3000 rpms at 70 mph where the 3.5L engine turns about 2500. That's a lot less wear on the 3.5L for the same amount of miles driven! Anyone else notice this difference??
Yes, I noticed that going from my 3.2L 1995 Trooper that was totalled, to my 3.5L 2001 Trooper the 70mph RPM was less. I did 70+ for 1400 miles straight thru in 20 hours including the stops with the 1984 (speedo only goes to 85mph), trouble free little engine that could! .. 1984 1.9L 4 speed manual 70 mph = 4100 RPM 1995 3.2L 5 speed manual 70 mph = 3100 RPM 2001 3.5L 5 speed manual 70 mph = 2700 RPM .. The lower RPM give higher MPG! and the 3.5L feels like it has a lot more power, especially more torque. There's a supercharger kit out there somewhere for the 3.5L.
emiura - do you have the shop manual for removing the front driver's side door panel. my window is off the clips (2nd time) and I want to go in and see what's going on. i think the first shop that repaired and only glued things back together vice placing the parts.
My husband has a '96 Trooper that he adores. It has 150K on it, but it is perfect cosmetic condition and runs well other than brakes and a squeaking noise (I'm not a car person, so I don't know what the technical terms are). We have $2000 saved and the Troop is valued at $3500, so would it really be conceivable to put the two grand into fixing it, or would it be better to use the cash and the Troop for a down payment on something newer? He's really super attached to the Trooper, but I handle the finances and he's left the decision up to me. If at all possible, I'd rather put the money into it and get it completely fixed for a surprise Christmas present. Is this wise?
You know what they say about men and their trucks.......he'll not like it if he has to get rid of something he likes so much.
Sounds like the brakes might be squeeking??? If all it needs is some brake work, that won't use up the $2000. You'd have a lot of money left over to spend on some other sweet surprise for him!!
I have a '99 Trooper with 61K miles. This week my wife (it's her primary vehicle) said the engine seemed to be losing power and surging.
I drove it all day Friday and didn't notice any problems. My wife said I didn't drive it right and made me ride with her. Sure enough, if you floored it from a standing start, it would accelerate up to about 3,000 RPM, at which point it would start bucking, with the RPM needle swinging through +/- 500 RPM and it didn't seem t want to accelerate any further unless you backed off the throttle.
I drove and was able to repeat the behavior several times. It felt like riding with someone who was learning to drive a manual transmission. After about three times, it finally threw a Check Engine Light.
I pulled a code 0137: Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2).
While I went out to get a replacement sensor, my wife called and said she was stranded. The engine had stalled, shut off, and wouldn't start. After a few minutes, she was able to get it restarted and limped home, trying shifting to different gears, etc.
Once the exhaust cooled off, I replaced the sensor on the drivers side just behind the catalytic converter. There are four sensors, two from each exhaust path. I assumed the left side was Bank 1 and the last sensor was Sensor 2. Anybody know if this is correct?
I noticed while replacing the sensor that the TOD/transfer case seemed hot, even though the exhaust had cooled down.
I replaced the sensor, and let my wife take it for a test drive. She came back very shortly, barely making it around the block. When she got home, the Check Engine Light and the Check Transmission Light were both on. She said it was like it wouldn't shift, it just wanted to stay in 1st gear.
I pulled the codes again. I got a 0137 again, and this time a 0722: Transmission Output Speed Sensor - No Signal.
I can't tell if there are two problems or just one. Clearly there is a transmission problem. I'm wondering if there is a wire harness gone bad, causing both problems. Perhaps I pulled a wire loose changing the oxygen sensor?
Either way, I'm taking it to a transmission shop on Monday. I'm hoping it is just a bad sensor or harness and not a true tranny problem.
On another note, I put in some CD2 last oil change, and oil consumption seemed to taper off sharly the last 1000 miles. I only lost about 0.5 quarts and I had been losing a full quart every 1000 miles. I put in another bottle of CD2 to top it off and am hoping to see continued improvement.
Next oil change I'll be sure to put in engine flush again to help keep the oil drain holes clean.
I have a 2002 trooper LS and would like to go to larger tires. Anyone have any suggestions. How would larger tires affect the ABS, speedometer, and TOD system? Besides fuel economy and acceleration are there any other downsides (maintenance, wear-and-tear etc)? Can you get the trooper recalibrated for larger tires? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
When my troop started whining about its o2 sensor (can't recall the code for sure, but I think it may have been 0137 as well - if so, the problem is manifested in the rear passenger side sensor), I did a bunch of research. In addition to a bad sensor, it is apparently common for a clogged fuel filter (restricting fuel flow outright) and/or a gas cap closed too tightly (resulting in a vacuum forming in the fuel tank, restricting fuel flow) causing just that code. This may also explain the car stalling & not starting.
To that end, I have read several reports of folks running their troopers w/o their o2 sensors connected, so assuming this is accurate, it doesn't make sense that a faulty harness would result in the truck croaking (unless something else was affected too).
We had a lot of discussion on the subject of larger tires on this board. I'm sure you can find everything you'd ever want to know. My worry would be the warranty coverage. Dealers will most likely charge you for powertrain-related repairs if they notice larger tires (and those TOD-sensors aren’t cheap). If you don't have the 10/120K warranty then it's not an issue - Troopers look so much better with taller and wider tires though I know nothing of calibration ;-)
Go for it! It is a good move, and yes it will make a little difference in the speedo reading. It will be by about 4% depending on which tire you decide to use. I went to 265 70R 16's on my 99' Trooper quite some time ago and have noticed little difference. It still gets of the mark about the same, and I've seen NO harm to the MPG's. So, in fact I've picked up a 4% increase in fuel mileage! The ride didn't change noticeably either, maybe a shade softer. I like the change and as has been said the look is greatly improved with the larger tires.
Calibration, don't worry about it! Warranty - hogwash. If the dealer is that picky about it, they would find some reason not to honor it anyway.
I am having a similar problem. I have a 1996 Isuzu Trooper LS. Whenever I drive my car and it has been sitting for a while (~12 hours or longer) the engine kicks hard into second gear. Then into third gear it really slams hard. On the down shift, it reverses...kicks hard down to second and slams harder back into first. After I drive around for 10 minutes or so, if I re start my engine, the problem goes away ??? It was doing this last year and then just went away. Last year it lasted about 3 weeks. I think I know what is causing the problem. Both of these occurrences started after I had been driving in flooded streets. The sensor problem discussed in the message that I am replying to sounds like it may fix my problem. If you have photos and are willing to help, I would greatly appreciate it. I was thinking that I may have solved the problem the first time because shortly after it started kicking...about two weeks....The starter went on it and I think when they were working on it, the car computer got reset. Is there a way for me to reset my computer quickly and cheaply just to see if this will fix my problem ? Can I just disconnect my negative battery cable for a while? I did try this and it didn't work. I may not have had the cable disconnected for long enough time as my clock wasn't flashing when I reconnected it. As a temporary fix, I am driving my car for 10-15 minutes before I go to bed and that keeps it warm enough for it not to kick when I drive it the next morning. Please help me, my trooper is ill !!!
I just got a special buy back program for 1999 Troopers...due to a "special used vehicle request"...of course they said come trade it in for a new vehicle.
I don't want to get rid of it, but faced with a transfer case problem...I am interested in just getting good cash for it...I am going to call them regarding them just buying it back without getting a lincoln/mercury...just the $$$. If the deal is good I might take them up on it.
What do you think $6500 would be a sell it on the spot price? Anyone else hear of a special buy back or do you think this is just a sales gimmick? Probably just a gimmick, but who would want 1999 troopers used on their lot?
I think it's a gimmick. Subaru dealers have been doing this for a while, and someone got a similar mailing a couple of weeks ago for another SUV (forgotten where I saw the post now).
Yeah, I figure as much...and no offense to lincoln/mercury people...but those are not something I am interested in. Straight cash and good cash I am interested.
I like my Isuzu, but the future is uncertain. I always thought I would keep it until the wheels fell off...but now I need to know that when I go offroading with my family on vacation 3000 miles from home, I cannot have an old car problem. That is the rub...great 4 wheeler, poor service and no confidence in the dealer network...means get a 4runner if possible. (at least to me)
I had the same problem that manifested itself on a long trip. '99 Trooper with 70k miles. It progressively got worse to the point that I had to keep the tank full of fuel for it to run correctly. I got the same codes. The solution was to replace the fuel pump and fuel filter. The in-tank screen gets clogged with crap to the point that the pump cannot pump enough fuel without the pressure of a full tank.
Dropping the tank and replacing the pump took me about 41/2 hours. Took it on a highway trip today and it ran great. I'm 95% sure this is your problem.
Anybody know how to remove the inside rear view mirror on a '01 Trooper? I'm thinking about replacing it with one the the Gentex auto dim/temp/compass mirrors. There is a plastic housing covering the mounting point at the edge of the headliner, but I can't figure out how to get it off.
While I'm at it, my Trooper (LS with sunroof) already has the wiring harness and temp probe pre-installed for an overhead "multimeter". I think these can be used with the Gentex mirror. My harness wires aren't labeled. How do I determine which ones are for the temp probe, hot lead and ground?
Michael - Forgive me for being so naive as I am a chick and normally do not surf such sites. However this has been quite resourceful. I'm assuming there is a diagnostic machine that spits out these fault codes. Are they available at most garages or at dealers and specialty garages. I have tried a fuel additive/cleaner to try to clear up my stalling problem as I run my fuel tank kind of low. My injectors are probably due for a cleaning as well. I am checking my records to see when the last time a changed the fuel filter. At any rate, I'm interested in pulling a diagnostic test to see what errors may come up. Caryn
The fuel filter is a large inline unit below the right rear door, it is an easy DIY and not expensive. I usually change the fuel filter when it gets cold for winter to prevent freezing in the fuel filter paper which might absorb water. http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/15.pdf .. Also, for fuel injector cleaning, have you tried a fuel additive such as the ones from Valvoline or RedLineOil in the strength recommended for annual application? I havwe found that fuel injector cleaner helps prevent hesitation on my manual 5 speed, and that hesitation could show up at a stall if load was applied too quickly as an automatic transmission might do. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=54
No problem. Yes, there is a simple device which I plug into the diagnostic port on my Trooper. The plug-in for the port is located just to the left and below the steering wheel behind a small square panel with a little finger indention on it. It just pops right off and behind it you'll see the plug.
I bought my code reader from Harbor Freight Tools for about $40 (see link below) and it should work fine in any vehicle 1997 and up. It comes with a little book that tells you what all the codes mean. At the very least, you'll be armed with some knowledge when you take it to the shop.
Thanks for your reply. I ended up taking it to a transmission shop, and explained what had happened. I had simply popped the harness off the speed sensor, but I couldn't see it to get it re-connected. They charged me $50 for it and that seemed to fix the problem.
My wife drove around all week with no problems, until her tank got low on fuel again, and she said it's still surging, and that it goes away when she fills the tank back up.
So I'm inclined to agree with you that it must be the fuel pump or fuel filter. With the filter so easy to change and inexpensive, I plan on changing that first and keeping my fingers crossed.
I wondered if perhaps there was some crud in the tank or perhaps some water that gets pulled into the pump when the tank gets low. So I've also put some Gas-Dry in the tank to clear out any water that may be in there. It was a whole $1, so I figured it was worth a try. I'll put the filter on tomorrow.
I'm hoping I won't have to replace the pump. I see the pump itself is about $90-$120 for just the pump, or nearly $300 for a pump/screen/sender assembly. Just had a guy at work have his fuel pump quit right in the middle of the road....hoping that doesn't happen to me!
2. Wiring harness - Anybody? I even visited my dealer and went through all the Trooper schematics with a technician. The harness isn't shown in any of their diagrams, so I'll have to resort to the trial-and-error approach.
SilverGhost, please post the wire harness information you find. I like my regular mirror, but would very much like to know if there is power available above the headliner where the fancy model Troopers have their reading lights. Mine is a 2001 S model. That place could be used for lots of things. .. Assuming there was power available above the headliner front & center, what would all of you on this discussion like to mount and power in that spot?
Will do. However, I doubt that you'll find any juice up there on your S model. My '01 LS was optioned with the sunroof and maplights. In that configuration, Isuzu also included the wiring harness and temp probe for the overhead console / accessory meter. I hope to tap into the 12V, ground and temp probe wires for a new Gentex mirror.
I always thought the accessory meter was a pretty neat toy, but not at yesterday's quote of $500 ++. A $175 ++ Gentex with dim, comp and temp is a much better buy.
Thanks to a very helpful member elsewhere, here's the layout of the harness for the accessory meter. The harness is located directly above the map light / sunroof switch cluster, which just pops straight out. Looking at the pin-out side of the connector, the wires, from left to right, are as follows:
Black = Ground Pink/Green = Temperature Sensor Pink/Blue = Temperature Sensor Orange/Green = 12V Power (hot in ACC or ON) Green/Red = Connected to the dash/console lighting circuit. I'm guessing this dims the lights on the OEM accessory meter when the vehicle lights are turned on.
If anyone wants a copy of the diagram, or photos of the actual harness in my truck, just email me.
I own a 99 Acura SLX which is the Isuzu Trooper. The vehicle has 160K and I recently had the transmission rebuilt. This has led to other issues which the transmission shop cannot figure out.
When I start the vehicle and engage the transmission in either drive or reverse the and turn the steering wheel hard the front wheels bind up. Also, if I put the vehicle in 4WD with the TOD button the front wheels bind up when making a hard turn.
The front will bind up but allow me to go forward with lots of throttle and then releases with a loud Metal POP!
It sounds like you are permanently in 4wd with the TOD locked up. If that is the case, then what it happenning is the front and rear driveshafts are forced to the same speed, with the hubs engaged up front for 4wd, the front wheels and rear wheels are forced to turn the same speed. But, when you turn, you force the wheels to different speeds, the tires must slip on the road or something had to give in the drive line to release the tension that binds your steering. .. Do the symptoms go away when driving on loose dirt where the tires can easily slip? .. Did the transmission shop properly rewire the TOD controls?
Comments
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Is the voltage regulator inside the alternator or separate?
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What is your battery voltage:
1.) with it disconnected?
2.) with it connected, but key out of igition?
3.) with engine off, but headlights on?
4.) with the engine at idle?
5.) with the engine at 2500 RPM?
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Get that data and post it, that will fuel more suggestions.
I replaced the alternator and that ended the problem until the next day, when the dash warning lights (O2, battery,brake) lit up and battery guage showed 12 or less volts, ulike the 14 it had been showing, which is exactly what it was doing before I replaced the first alternator.
I guess now I need to figure out if it could be a bad alternator, again, or if I have a bad module or diode or something.
Thanks for suggestions, gonna go get my hands dirty on it now.
1999 Trooper. Has worked fine for years but a year ago 4wd quit functioning normally. You press the 4wd button and it appears to engage the 4wd, but it makes a horrible scraping sound, mostly heard when you let off the gas. But it is not a situation where giving it the gas seems to drown out the sound, however it is noticeably much louder when you let off the accelerator. Nice Mystery. It pretty much feels like it is legitimately in 4wd when the switch is pressed on but it is hard to tell as I do not like to leave that switched on very long.
The hungry dealer said it was the "transmission mode switch" and said it is about a $300.00+ USD job to fix, but I find nothing on a search of that name on this forum---maybe it is called something else in real life??
Anyway, I sure would appreciate any suggestions on how to test/fix/replace/LOCATE this part, if this even sounds like the problem. I am guessing it is that assembly that is mounted on the front axle that has all the sensors and hoses attached to it.
Keith
coolant spray was now apparant - when the mechanic put my timing belt together he put on my main hose from my rad on a little off - the hose was rubbing on a pully of the the belt which threw a hole through it - so the harder I hamered it the more coolant shot out and my engine must have been heating at the high revs - the hole in the hose just wore so bad tonight so that I couldn't drive it and had to duct tape it to get her home - will fix the hose tomorrow and hopefully will be the end of my recent problems - nice that it is a cheap fix.
Thanks for all the resources you provided.
Cheers
I will miss the Trooper Forum. I hope Isuzu can continue a presence in NA..
There is no center differential in this model Trooper. Differential action is provided by slippage in the TOD clutches when in hi. When low is engaged, it just bypasses the TOD and locks the front and rear drivelines together.
Regards,
Tom
A cpl of months ago I rear ended someone with my 99 Trooper. The local Isuzu body shop did all the repairs to the front end (bumper, headlights, foglights, hood and so on) but from the day I got it back there is a huge cracking, popping, type sound from the front end whenever I hit small bumps in the road. On the highway it sounds like the front end is cracking everytime you hit a bump. Anyway, took it back to the dealer and after keeping the car two days they said they couldn't hear the sound. Drove on over, took them for a test drive and they were like "oh yeah we hear it now." At the time it was in for repairs I gave them the poly bushings for the sway bars and asked them to install them..they gave me the car back with the bushing on the front sway bar and told me there was no rear sway bar. After some help from this forum I showed them where the rear sway bar was and they installed the bushings. Anyway, then they said the sound under the front end was that the axle needed replacing and of course they and Allstate said "thats normal wear and tear and you need to pay for it". Isuzu quoted $1000.
After fighting with allstate for 4 weeks they have agreed to get it fixed since the car didn't make this noise before the accident. Anyway they told me I could take the car wherever I want including back to the dealer. My questions are:
1. Would you have any faith that the dealer diagnosed the problem properly and that they actually can fix it properly since they couldnt find a sway bar?
2. If not Isuzu, who else would you recommend to fix the problem?
3. Any ideas on anything else that might make that type of sound?
thanks for any thoughts!
PS: The bushing made quite a bit of difference in the handling, should have done them years ago
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I would search for and use another dealer if possible, within a reasonable distance. You can get a second opinion about the sound at any mechanic shop, not just Isuzu. Try the shops that used to be Isuzu, ask to talk to the mechanics that used to work on Isuzu. A million years ago, my mom's Chevy Impala would make a sound like you describe in the front end, it was only while going over a bump with the steering all the way to one side or the other, and the noise was the steering travel stop friction as the suspension flexed.
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This dealer locator link found 5 Isuzu dealer with my zip code. http://www.isuzu.com/dealer_locator.jsp
Were you able to correct the problem, and if so, how?
I had much better results with my 01' Trooper as reported earlier, but it has 45000 miles on it, which might explain the difference. It also seemed to improve gas mileage performance on the 01', but not on the 99'.
Will report next time around on this oil change.
BTW, Costco usually seems to stock Mobil1 5w30 for about $20/case. It may burn just as fast as dino, but I feel a little bit safer knowing that synthetic has a good track record of continuing to lubricate even when the oil level is way low.
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Where is the oil entering the combustion? Is it leaking past the valve guide seals? Are the rings allowing blow by? Is the oil hitting the back of really hot pistons and vaporizing then being evacuated through the crankcase ventillation?
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I use the redlineoil.com product called Water Wetter to reduce the chance of hot spots in the engine. I think Redline Oil is the best there is, just too expensive to actually use in the engine (I use valvoline because my family always has). I use the Red Line MTL for my manual transmission and Red Line oils in the diffrentials because they don't require frequent changes and do not deplete.
Please note that these engines are not using oil due to excessive wear, but due to a design flaw in the piston rings where sludge buildup is not allowing proper function. The CD2 cleans the sludge and allows the rings to function properly. There have other products mentioned on this forum and others that claim to also fix the problem, but I have tried them all and the CD2 was the only one that fixed the problem.
I noticed the 3.2L engine turns about 3000 rpms at 70 mph where the 3.5L engine turns about 2500. That's a lot less wear on the 3.5L for the same amount of miles driven! Anyone else notice this difference??
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1984 1.9L 4 speed manual 70 mph = 4100 RPM
1995 3.2L 5 speed manual 70 mph = 3100 RPM
2001 3.5L 5 speed manual 70 mph = 2700 RPM
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The lower RPM give higher MPG! and the 3.5L feels like it has a lot more power, especially more torque. There's a supercharger kit out there somewhere for the 3.5L.
Sounds like the brakes might be squeeking??? If all it needs is some brake work, that won't use up the $2000. You'd have a lot of money left over to spend on some other sweet surprise for him!!
I drove it all day Friday and didn't notice any problems. My wife said I didn't drive it right and made me ride with her. Sure enough, if you floored it from a standing start, it would accelerate up to about 3,000 RPM, at which point it would start bucking, with the RPM needle swinging through +/- 500 RPM and it didn't seem t want to accelerate any further unless you backed off the throttle.
I drove and was able to repeat the behavior several times. It felt like riding with someone who was learning to drive a manual transmission. After about three times, it finally threw a Check Engine Light.
I pulled a code 0137: Oxygen Sensor Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2).
While I went out to get a replacement sensor, my wife called and said she was stranded. The engine had stalled, shut off, and wouldn't start. After a few minutes, she was able to get it restarted and limped home, trying shifting to different gears, etc.
Once the exhaust cooled off, I replaced the sensor on the drivers side just behind the catalytic converter. There are four sensors, two from each exhaust path. I assumed the left side was Bank 1 and the last sensor was Sensor 2. Anybody know if this is correct?
I noticed while replacing the sensor that the TOD/transfer case seemed hot, even though the exhaust had cooled down.
I replaced the sensor, and let my wife take it for a test drive. She came back very shortly, barely making it around the block. When she got home, the Check Engine Light and the Check Transmission Light were both on. She said it was like it wouldn't shift, it just wanted to stay in 1st gear.
I pulled the codes again. I got a 0137 again, and this time a 0722: Transmission Output Speed Sensor - No Signal.
I can't tell if there are two problems or just one. Clearly there is a transmission problem. I'm wondering if there is a wire harness gone bad, causing both problems. Perhaps I pulled a wire loose changing the oxygen sensor?
Either way, I'm taking it to a transmission shop on Monday. I'm hoping it is just a bad sensor or harness and not a true tranny problem.
On another note, I put in some CD2 last oil change, and oil consumption seemed to taper off sharly the last 1000 miles. I only lost about 0.5 quarts and I had been losing a full quart every 1000 miles. I put in another bottle of CD2 to top it off and am hoping to see continued improvement.
Next oil change I'll be sure to put in engine flush again to help keep the oil drain holes clean.
Will report back here.
-Michael
To that end, I have read several reports of folks running their troopers w/o their o2 sensors connected, so assuming this is accurate, it doesn't make sense that a faulty harness would result in the truck croaking (unless something else was affected too).
good luck!
SYJ
I went to 265 70R 16's on my 99' Trooper quite some time ago and have noticed little difference. It still gets of the mark about the same, and I've seen NO harm to the MPG's. So, in fact I've picked up a 4% increase in fuel mileage! The ride didn't change noticeably either, maybe a shade softer.
I like the change and as has been said the look is greatly improved with the larger tires.
Calibration, don't worry about it! Warranty - hogwash. If the dealer is that picky about it, they would find some reason not to honor it anyway.
I don't want to get rid of it, but faced with a transfer case problem...I am interested in just getting good cash for it...I am going to call them regarding them just buying it back without getting a lincoln/mercury...just the $$$. If the deal is good I might take them up on it.
What do you think $6500 would be a sell it on the spot price? Anyone else hear of a special buy back or do you think this is just a sales gimmick? Probably just a gimmick, but who would want 1999 troopers used on their lot?
Ah, here's one:
kirstie_h, "Saturn Vue: Prices Paid & Buying Experience" #26, 20 Apr 2005 9:38 am
Another:
clecrone, "Oldsmobile Delta 88" #1, 6 Aug 2004 5:38 pm
I think the catch is going to be "trade for a new vehicle" but it's worth a phone call at least.
Steve, Host
I like my Isuzu, but the future is uncertain. I always thought I would keep it until the wheels fell off...but now I need to know that when I go offroading with my family on vacation 3000 miles from home, I cannot have an old car problem. That is the rub...great 4 wheeler, poor service and no confidence in the dealer network...means get a 4runner if possible. (at least to me)
I had the same problem that manifested itself on a long trip. '99 Trooper with 70k miles. It progressively got worse to the point that I had to keep the tank full of fuel for it to run correctly. I got the same codes. The solution was to replace the fuel pump and fuel filter. The in-tank screen gets clogged with crap to the point that the pump cannot pump enough fuel without the pressure of a full tank.
Dropping the tank and replacing the pump took me about 41/2 hours. Took it on a highway trip today and it ran great. I'm 95% sure this is your problem.
Regards,
Tom
While I'm at it, my Trooper (LS with sunroof) already has the wiring harness and temp probe pre-installed for an overhead "multimeter". I think these can be used with the Gentex mirror. My harness wires aren't labeled. How do I determine which ones are for the temp probe, hot lead and ground?
Thanks,
Dave
Caryn
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/15.pdf
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Also, for fuel injector cleaning, have you tried a fuel additive such as the ones from Valvoline or RedLineOil in the strength recommended for annual application? I havwe found that fuel injector cleaner helps prevent hesitation on my manual 5 speed, and that hesitation could show up at a stall if load was applied too quickly as an automatic transmission might do.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=54
Will the 2.8td from a 91 old shape Trooper fit straight in to a 93 - 3.1td new shape?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
No problem. Yes, there is a simple device which I plug into the diagnostic port on my Trooper. The plug-in for the port is located just to the left and below the steering wheel behind a small square panel with a little finger indention on it. It just pops right off and behind it you'll see the plug.
I bought my code reader from Harbor Freight Tools for about $40 (see link below) and it should work fine in any vehicle 1997 and up. It comes with a little book that tells you what all the codes mean. At the very least, you'll be armed with some knowledge when you take it to the shop.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46030
It's easy to use. This is the cheapest one I've been able to find.
-Michael
Thanks for your reply. I ended up taking it to a transmission shop, and explained what had happened. I had simply popped the harness off the speed sensor, but I couldn't see it to get it re-connected. They charged me $50 for it and that seemed to fix the problem.
My wife drove around all week with no problems, until her tank got low on fuel again, and she said it's still surging, and that it goes away when she fills the tank back up.
So I'm inclined to agree with you that it must be the fuel pump or fuel filter. With the filter so easy to change and inexpensive, I plan on changing that first and keeping my fingers crossed.
I wondered if perhaps there was some crud in the tank or perhaps some water that gets pulled into the pump when the tank gets low. So I've also put some Gas-Dry in the tank to clear out any water that may be in there. It was a whole $1, so I figured it was worth a try. I'll put the filter on tomorrow.
I'm hoping I won't have to replace the pump. I see the pump itself is about $90-$120 for just the pump, or nearly $300 for a pump/screen/sender assembly. Just had a guy at work have his fuel pump quit right in the middle of the road....hoping that doesn't happen to me!
-Michael
2. Wiring harness - Anybody? I even visited my dealer and went through all the Trooper schematics with a technician. The harness isn't shown in any of their diagrams, so I'll have to resort to the trial-and-error approach.
Dave
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Assuming there was power available above the headliner front & center, what would all of you on this discussion like to mount and power in that spot?
I always thought the accessory meter was a pretty neat toy, but not at yesterday's quote of $500 ++. A $175 ++ Gentex with dim, comp and temp is a much better buy.
Black = Ground
Pink/Green = Temperature Sensor
Pink/Blue = Temperature Sensor
Orange/Green = 12V Power (hot in ACC or ON)
Green/Red = Connected to the dash/console lighting circuit. I'm guessing this dims the lights on the OEM accessory meter when the vehicle lights are turned on.
If anyone wants a copy of the diagram, or photos of the actual harness in my truck, just email me.
Hope this helps.
Dave
When I start the vehicle and engage the transmission in either drive or reverse the and turn the steering wheel hard the front wheels bind up. Also, if I put the vehicle in 4WD with the TOD button the front wheels bind up when making a hard turn.
The front will bind up but allow me to go forward with lots of throttle and then releases with a loud Metal POP!
Frustrated! Any ideas?
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Do the symptoms go away when driving on loose dirt where the tires can easily slip?
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Did the transmission shop properly rewire the TOD controls?