Reliability may well be a minor contributing factor to the absence of posts, but the lack of significant interest in a brand that is currently withdrawing from, or has already abandoned, the US market is a more appropriate explanation. Our resale values speak volumes. Having said that, I did not hesitate two weeks ago to plunk down $600++ on new shocks and brakes for my '01 LS. On the other hand, I'm not always the sharpest pencil in the box . . .
My 2001 Trooper was using oil, enough that I could dump in another quart after 2000 to 3000 miles. Last oil change was with an oil cleaning flush administered by my Isuzu mechanic where they run the engine with a machine inplace of the oil filter. I checked the oil at 2700 miles and the level is just 1/8 inch below full, so no room to add any. I did not expect this result. I only did it as a prevention because I always drive my troopers at least 200000 miles and I want it good as new the whole way. Since 1984 I have driven about 400K miles on troopers trouble free, never stranded. .. I did a similar flush with my 1995 Trooper (when I had it) at the local Caddilac dealer. The 1995 never used any oil, but had the lifter tick. That oil flush did not cure the lifter tick until I drove another 300 miles. So I did not expect much from the oil flush on my 2001.
hey everyone- i'm having a weird engine problem with my 88 trooper II: when i start it up, it runs fine for about 2-3 seconds, then dies. there's a viper 300 car alarm that someone installed and then partially disconnected a long time ago and i thought that might be the source of the problem since my parking lights began to flash (an alert feature of the alarm) when the problem started and since engine shut-off is also a feature of the alarm. i pulled the wire harness out of the alarm box, assuming this would disable it, and, although the lights quit flashing, the engine still dies. i checked conncections at the alternator, distributor and coil and i know it's getting fuel because i've started it probably 20 times in the last couple days while trying to figure this out. could some part of the alarm be functioning still? any other ideas?
Are you getting a check engine light or any other indicator?Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes
"Check Engine" Light And Diagnostic Connector
To access trouble codes, a test lead (white wire) and ground lead (black wire) are branched from the wiring harness under the center console near the ECM. With the ignition "ON" connect these two leads together. The "Check Engine" light will begin to flash code 12. Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes. After a longer pause, code 12 will repeat two more times. This check indicates that the on-board diagnostic system is functioning. If no other codes are present, the cycle will repeat until the ignition is switched "OFF."
I am a devoted Trooper owner. I'm now on my third Trooper--a 2000 Limited. I bought used with about 47k on it. At approx. 62k, the transmission went and it was replaced. Shortly after the transmission was replaced, I started hearing a noise that occurred typically when the car was in a lower gear and starting up slowly. I took it to 3 different mechanics and not once could I replicate the noise. After a transmission guy looked at it and checked everything, the noise stopped for a while. About a month ago it started again. It shoulds like a muffled grinding is the best way to describe it. Last week, the catalytic convertor broke at the manifold and had to be replaced along with the oxygen sensors. And I'm still hearing the noise. it's even worse. I am ready to ditch it. Any one have any thoughts/similar experiences?
I have an 88 with the same problem. I bought the car a couple of years ago. When I got it the story was it had an electricl problem. When I started checking things I found it had several cracks in the head. Several mechs. told me it wouldn't run right until I replaced the head. That has been done and I still hve the same problem. You can start it and it shuts of in a few seconds. If you give it gas and hold the idle at around 2000-3000 it is ok. If you let off some it may stay running but it runs real rough. I had to replace the fuel pump so I am getting a good flow of gas. There are no error messages coming up. I pulled the timing cover off at the top and verified that #4 cylinder is firing when both timing marks are up. The vacuum hoses have been checked several times. The EGR seems to work. Fast idle solenoid works when power is applied. I haven't been able to set the timing correctly yet because it won't idle. I have been able to get it down to 1000rpm a few times if I keep pumpng the gas pedal. When I tried to set the timing I noticed it was about 16 before TDC and every time the motor sounded like it was going to stop the timing mark would go close to 0. Any help woud be appreciated. I noticed previous post on this was from NC I'm not far from you if you want to compare things you have tried. Thanks.
It sounds to me like you are getting too much air for the fuel going in at idle. Check for leaks into the vacuum under the carburator. I once had a 1984 Trooper and to improve its idle performance I replaced the throttle plate. The throttle shaft runs through the throttle plate and turns the bottom butterfly under the carburator. The 1984 Throttle plate was not part of the carburator, but a thin maybe 1/2 thick part under the carburator, easy to change. .. Maybe your idle mixture needle valve is dirty not letting enough fuel in for idling. On my 1984 I tried to adjust idle mixture. But since mine was made for California, they plugged the hole over the needle valve adjustment with a slug of aluminum, so to adjust I would have had to drill the plug out. I replaced the throttle body instead to stop the air leak and that seemed to work.
If you get a code and need to know what it is, post it with the year and engine type and I am sure someone can come up with it, along with ways to address the problem. Good luck.
OK i've been thru H*** and back with this car we tracked it to the ECM bought an ECM thru someone we found online well the first they sent didn't at all so they sent us another one which did work but only for 2 days(In the ECM there is a Memory Calibrator(Smaller Chip) Unit and a Prm Unit(bigger chip)that you are suppose to pull out and replace with your car original ones which we did with the first ECM that didn't work.. with the second we changed both out then on the off chance just changed the Prom Unit and used the Memory Calibrator that was sent in the box and for some odd reason it ran. We were of course happy but like i said only ran for 2 days... in th middle of all of that i sent my original memory calibrator back to the company in one of the ECM's(core price) which didn't work anyhow..anyhow brings me up to date with the company having just sent me another ECM and aaarrrrgghhhh my car is still not running any help at all??? by the wat not even a chech engine light thanx Lisa
Thanks for the replys. I have fuel injection on the trooper I have. I haven't had any error codes come up yet. I just put the head back on the engine. I was very careful when I put the fuel injection back on. I had new gaskets and used a coat of sealer on each side to make sure it sealed. The car was doing the same thing before I took it apart. Not sure what is going on. Thanks again for any help. What I have noticed is there seem to be several postings over a period of time for 88's with a similar problem. Thanks.
I'm not sure what all you have tried on your 89. I have an 89 and went through a no start problem when I changed engines in it. I went through just about everthing and found out the distributor went bad. I replaced it and it has been running for several years. It would turn over great but would not fire.
Maybe a silly question, but does the check engine light work? Should light up when key is turned to on. I include some info on ecm that explains why I ask about light.
The ECM is a computer that judges air/fuel ratio as rich or lean according to oxygen sensor output voltage. Based on oxygen sensor and other input data, the ECM generates a controlling signal to the fuel injectors that regulates "ON" time. Because fuel pressure remains constant, the ECM controls air/fuel ratio adjustments by varying injector "ON" time.
When operating in "Open Loop," the ECM defaults to preprogrammed values for air/fuel ratio control. The system is in "Open Loop" before the oxygen sensor has warmed up to operating temperature. When operating in "Closed Loop," the ECM continually adjusts air/fuel ratio according to oxygen sensor input and operating information received from various other sensors.
To give an extra margin of safety in the event of system failure, the output of the ECM will automatically switch to fail-safe mode if a fault is detected in any of these components and/or systems:
Oxygen sensor Coolant temperature sensor Throttle valve switch system Air flow sensor system
If a malfunction develops in the micro computer within the control unit, the back-up control system will maintain the minimum necessary ECM functions to permit vehicle operation.
This system incorporates self-diagnostic capability that is monitored via a dash mounted "Check Engine" light. When the system detects a fault in a monitored component and/or circuit, the light will come on and stay on (while the engine is running), alerting the driver to seek service. With intermittent problems, the light may come on and then go out, but a trouble code will be stored in ECM memory if correct parameters are met. The technician can then extract trouble codes from the ECM that will aid in the performance of efficient troubleshooting and repair.
:sick: no the check engine does not come on..we know the bulb to the light is not blown we have checked it. The light didn't work so we replaced the ECM Car ran for a day or so but only after switching original mem cal with another. The car then did not start and check engine light no longer works again.
Driving 65 down the road, check engine light comes on, when I try to accelerate, it bogs down like it isn't getting gas. Check engine light goes off, turn the car off, restart it twice more that afternoon. Next morning, cranks but will not attempt to start. Mechanic thought was fuel pump, but that looks good, thinks it is an electrical problem. Help!
Have you tried to retrieve codes from the ecm even though the light is not lit? The memory (if it is working at all) should cough up a 12 code if there are no codes stored, and other codes would follow if they are there. IF the ecm is at fault (again) then I would check its'status by checking for proper voltages. If you get that far, I can probably give you the basic pins to check for proper power supply to ecm and grounds.
Did the mechanic even check for a trouble code? If not, you can do it. Good luck
The provision for communicating with the engine control module is the Data Link Connector. The data link connector is located behind the lower front instrument panel. It is used in the assembly plant to receive information in checking that the engine is operating properly before it leaves the plant. The diagnostic trouble code(s) stored in the engine control module's memory can be read either through a hand-held diagnostic scanner plugged into the data link connector or by counting the number of flashes of the "Check Engine" malfunction indicator lamp when the diagnostic test terminal of the data link connector is grounded. Data Link Connector The data link connector terminal "1" (diagnostic request) is pulled "Low" (grounded) by jumpering to data link connector terminal "3", which is a ground wire. This will signal the engine control module that you want to "flash" diagnostic trouble code(s), if any are present. Once terminals "1" and "3" have been connected, the ignition switch must be moved to the "ON" position, with the engine not running. At this point, the "Check Engine" malfunction indicator lamp should flash diagnostic trouble code 12 three times consecutively. This would be the following flash, sequence: "flash, pause, flash - flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash - flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash - flash". diagnostic trouble code 12 indicates that the engine control module's diagnostic system is operating. If diagnostic trouble code 12 is not indicated, a problem is present within the diagnostic system itself, and should be addressed by consulting the appropriate diagnostic chart. Following the output of diagnostic trouble code 12, the "Check Engine" malfunction indicator lamp will indicate a diagnostic trouble code three times if a diagnostic trouble code is present, or it will simply continue to output diagnostic trouble code 12. If more than one diagnostic trouble code has been stored in the engine control module's memory, the diagnostic trouble code(s) will be output from the lowest to the highest, with each diagnostic trouble code being displayed three times.
If you go to the URL below, I have posted a picture of the location and wiring for the aldl connector. If you get codes, post them for help. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info. There was alot of info about the ecm from previous talk, but this clarifies. My mechanics, 2 different ones, didn't want to know how they could troubleshoot the problem further using the check engine light. They sent me to an auto electric shop that wants me to wait until the 20th to look at it. I will let you know what happens.
As of right now we do not have an ECM that has worked in our car to chech the codes from it. we sent our original back to the place we bought the other ECM from but i think for now we are down to needing a Memory Calibrator for our specific vehichle and we are having the hardest time finding one not even our Isuzu dealership can find it they think we are crazy LOL so if any one could help me find or knows where i could it would be great and again thanx Lisa
I can find no mention of a memory calibrator for an ecm in my manuals, but generally, an ecm has a part number and that number applies to a specific engine type with certain callouts, say for auto trans, four wheel drive, etc; Inside the ecm, the prom is the chip that has the information to operate the engine, trans, etc. It is a read only chip, so the only way to change it is to reprogram it, which a dealership MAY be able to do, but really not necessary if original part number is swapped 1 for 1. You mentioned in previous posts using a memory calibrator that came with the replacement ecm. The information (part number) you gave them should have determined the proper ecm to supply. Sorry, but that is about all I can tell you.
thanx for the help.. thats about as far as we have gotten as well except the dealership won't reprogram it or try to find us one LOL and as for the one that acually did run in it and stopped we had to sen it back to PA for core charge of ECM yeah pretty much all i need is the parts# and thats all i can't find hehe always ends up that way thanx again Lisa
I did some more research, and found this....it applies to the 2.8 V6 motor. Maybe it will help. BULLETIN NUMBER SB90-02-001 ISSUE DATE January 11, 1990 GROUP FUEL TROOPER II (KT) ECM COMPONENTS
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1989-1990 Trooper II (KT) models with V6 engine.
SERVICE INFORMATION
Some diagnostic procedures in the Driveability and Emissions section of the 1989 Trooper/ Trooper II V6 Workshop Manual Supplement require replacement of ECM components (ECM box, CALPAK or calibrator). Replacement ECM components for affected vehicles are now available from your facing Parts Distribution Center. SERVICE PROCEDURE
Replace ECM box, CALPAK or calibrator (PROM) if required during Emissions and Driveability diagnostic procedure. If only ECM box is replaced, old CALPAK and PROM must be switched from old ECM box.
Install new ECM components as described on pages 6E2-C1-1 and 6E2-C1-2 of the 1989 Trooper/Trooper II V6 Workshop Manual Supplement (part No. 2-90989-033-0).
When replacing the calibrator (PROM), be sure to install the appropriate part number for the vehicle model year and transmission type. PARTS INFORMATION
Part No. Description
8-01228-062-0 ECM Box
8-16051-459-0 CALPAK
8-16120-506-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1989 models)
8-16120-506-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1990 Federal M/T models)
that is more help than the Isuzu dealership has given me in 2 months i am so grateful for the parts# although you'd be amazed how helpful the dealership is when you have the parts#hehe :P .....now to get the part and figure our why my car keep blowing the calpak(orECM)if thats whats going on (maybe electrical?) who knows maybe we will put this new one in and it will run without stopping(unlike the others)again thank you Lisa
I am far from an Isuzu expert, but at this point, I am not totally convinced that you need a new ecm. The ecm would flash a code 51 if it had an internal problem, so it is checking itself ok. The ecm controls several other relays and modules which could be the real problem. Starting with easiest to check first, a quick rundown of how I would approach this. Really, if it will start, a scan tool with the engine running would give the best diagnosis. If it won't start, you can start by checking if the fuel pump is turning on for a couple seconds right when you turn the key on. While it is a constant pressure pump, it is only on to start OR after the oil pressure/engine rpm indicates to the ecm that the engine is running, at which time it will keep the pump on. IF pump is on briefly when key is turned to on, then move on to checking if there is spark at the spark plugs. If spark is there, I would suggest that fuel injection may be the problem. This is controlled through the ecm, but there are several modules and relays in between. I will post a picture of the relays under the hood that could also be part of the problem, but you really have to have a digital multi meter to check them and know what to look for. Here is a link to see the picture http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/?50@@.599f9b85!photoLoc=.59a16cf4&skipNext=0&su- bmitNext=1&noThumbs=1#pic
You continually amaze me with your detailed knowledge of this stuff, AND your willingness to share that knowledge with poor schlubbs like myself. I just hope you're still around if and when I encounter such problems with my '01!
I wish I could take credit, but ever since I have been checking the Isuzu forum, some really nice people have helped me with advice, and I am just passing it on. My biggest fear is offering advice or opinion and having it taken as gospel. Reality is that I learned a long time ago that intelligence is not really knowing everything, but just knowing where to look up the answer. Knock on wood, the Trooper impresses me with it's strong basic architecture and functional utility. My used 94 was years ahead of competitor's comparable models of the same year.
I agree with your assesment that the Trooper was ahead of its time in strong basic architecture. .. I bought my first Trooper new in 1984, because it was big inside, tight and rattle free and light on its feet even with the little 1.9L engine, and because in 1984 the Trooper was $11K or so compared to $15K or so for the GM version. I even bought the extended engine warrantee figuring that the little 1.9L would not hold up, 201K trouble free miles later I sold it because of I wanted to upgrade to a Trooper with Air Conditioning. .. Next was my 1995 Trooper, this one was way more truck like and I really like the way the rear suspension is put together, it makes it a solid pltform for handling an eliminated trailer sway when towing. I made it even better by adding the OME suspension package including progressive rear coil springs and shocks. Unfortunately, a few seconds after my passenger was complementing how pristine my Trooper was, my 1995 Trooper met an early end at only 140K was rear ended so hard (the Volvo that hit it was crushed even its roof collapsed)the Trooper's air bags went off and the Trooper while it had been stopped was thrown into the pickup ahead, but even in adversity, the 1995 Trooper was able to drive home it drove really well in fact, but the insurance adjuster totalled it. .. So, even though my wife wanted to replace it with a small sedan, I bought a 2001 Trooper 30K used this time and put the OME suspension on it because I was used to the nice ride and good control. All of my Troopers have been stick shift type and I like that about them too. Now the 2001 is only has 80K on it and a long life ahead since they aren't making them anymore. .. The total price of these three Troopers is ($11K + $22K + $13K = $46K) easily $10K less than my brother paid for one Toyota Landcruiser, and about what many people pay for one SUV, so I feel that the economy of owning a Trooper can't be beat. .. I would buy another Trooper if they would get the diesel version into the USA, since in the UK the diesel Trooper gets 31mpg.
hello everybody... i have a isuzu trooper 94 and i want to change the power windows system to isuzu trooper 98 because i just get 4 set of windows switch, my problem is i do not have any wiring diagram for power windows 98 so i do not know what color wiring is what or for what ???
please if anyone have a wiring diagram of power windows electrical isuzu trooper 98 to scan/email to me ?? or where can i get that information ?? thank for you help !!!
Hi, If you go to the address below, I have posted a diagram of the window switch wiring for a 98. Hope it helps. It is in atfdmike's album. Should be the first picture in that album.
I have to add a couple more photos to that album for all the schematics. I am still a novice at figuring out how to post these things. May be up to four separate drawings for entire window system.
Hi atfdmike, thank verymuch for answer my message...... i will check righ now if those color of my wiring power switch is equal to the diagram. thank for you time
HI atfdmike..... i just allready check and is the diagram that i need, that help me a lot, so i am going to start change. but i am going to need the automatic door lock diagram too please, if there is not to much problem, could you put in your album automatic door lock diagram. thank again for your time....
OK, here ya go. Just go back to the link above but go to the album titled "Isuzu Troopers Forum". The schematics are there. There are four (again). Good Luck. I will check next week to see how it went. I have a 94 too, so I am curious to hear ! Good Luck.
I have a 89 Trooper that I can not time to save my life. No matter what, the timing marks show up 180 out. I can adjust it and get some backfire through the exhaust but it will not run. I have spent months on this vehicle can someone please give me some help. :confuse:
Generic for 2.6 engine. There is a big difference if you have the 2.8, so make sure you know which one you are asking for. This is the installation for distributor on 2.6 sohc. Sounds like yours could be 180 degrees off, so you need to check the following. Should be set for 12 degree BTDC. Be careful when rotating engine by hand to bring number 4 cylinder up to top dead center, make sure ignition (key) is off. INSTALLATION
Remove valve cover.(Unless you are absolutely sure you are on compression stroke for number 4 cylinder. Following these instructions, both valves for no. 4 cylinder would be closed (longest amount of valve stem above head showing on both at same time.) Timing Mark Move No. 4 cylinder to TDC on compression stroke. Be sure timing marks are aligned. Apply engine oil to distributor O-ring. Alignment Marks
Fit distributor to cylinder head and align distributor shaft setting mark with cylinder head setting mark. Refit valve cover. Tighten distributor mounting bolt to: 14 ft lb (19 Nm)
Refit spark plug wires. Check and adjust ignition timing. Refer to Powertrain Management/Ignition System/Adjustments .
Adjust ignition timing under the following conditions: Engine at normal operating temperature. Lights, A/C, and accessories turned off. Engine idling at proper idle speed, with throttle valve completely closed and idle switch "ON" (see IDLE SPEED under ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES ). Transmission in "Park" or "Neutral". Timing procedure:
Connect timing light. Loosen distributor mounting bolt. Adjust timing to specification: 12°BTDC @ 900 rpm. Tighten distributor mounting bolt. Recheck timing, repeat adjustment if necessary. Hope this helps.
It is a 2.8-- 4 cylinder with manual transmission. According to the book it sets TDC on #1 piston. But after I set the timing it still ends up 180 out and backfires through the exhaust. I have plenty of fire and fuel. Thank you so much for your time thus far.
Whoaaa....the 2.8 is a 6 cylinder engine, the 2.6 is a four cylinder. I sent you some info on the 2.8 via personal email. You should have enough information on both now to get a start on figuring this out. Hope it helps. But you have to be sure which engine you have, as timing and specs are different for each. If you have four cylinders, it is a 2.6 liter L4 engine. Let us know.....
Hello everyone, hi atfdmike... i have changed all the windows switch and all of them working perfect, from the driver's switch i can close and open all the windows. about lock and unlock system.... from de passenger's swicth i can lock and unlock all the door. but from the driver's switch i just try it but i can not to lock and unlock..... those schematic (power lock diagram) that you have posted are very hardly to see what color are ? please, could you scan again those pictures ???? i will appreciate it, and thank again for you time !
Sounds like you did very well with the windows. I will post another of driver switch on my site in the isuzu forum section. I will post drivers door and if you need more, let me know.: http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/?50@@.59a19a22! If you click on the picture at the site it should enlarge, if not, try downloading it to a picture or image application and enlarging it there. Good luck.
There were some Helms manuals printed with the wrong set up when putting on a timing belt. Take the top cover off of your timing belt so you can see the timing mark on the cam sprocket. Line it up with the TDC mark. Check now at the TDC mark on the balancer or bottom pulley. Make sure they are both up. You are now firing the #4 cylinder. Some manuals show #1 wich is incorrect. A friend of mine went thru this for several days until we compared books. Hope this may help.
Comments
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I did a similar flush with my 1995 Trooper (when I had it) at the local Caddilac dealer. The 1995 never used any oil, but had the lifter tick. That oil flush did not cure the lifter tick until I drove another 300 miles. So I did not expect much from the oil flush on my 2001.
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=88
I would suggest having a shop do it, but it gives you a little insight into it.
thanks and keep on trooping-
mike
"Check Engine" Light And Diagnostic Connector
To access trouble codes, a test lead (white wire) and ground lead (black wire) are branched from the wiring harness under the center console near the ECM. With the ignition "ON" connect these two leads together. The "Check Engine" light will begin to flash code 12. Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes. After a longer pause, code 12 will repeat two more times. This check indicates that the on-board diagnostic system is functioning. If no other codes are present, the cycle will repeat until the ignition is switched "OFF."
thanks for the tip-
mike
Many thanks in advance.
C
..
Maybe your idle mixture needle valve is dirty not letting enough fuel in for idling. On my 1984 I tried to adjust idle mixture. But since mine was made for California, they plugged the hole over the needle valve adjustment with a slug of aluminum, so to adjust I would have had to drill the plug out. I replaced the throttle body instead to stop the air leak and that seemed to work.
The ECM is a computer that judges air/fuel ratio as rich or lean according to oxygen sensor output voltage. Based on oxygen sensor and other input data, the ECM generates a controlling signal to the fuel injectors that regulates "ON" time. Because fuel pressure remains constant, the ECM controls air/fuel ratio adjustments by varying injector "ON" time.
When operating in "Open Loop," the ECM defaults to preprogrammed values for air/fuel ratio control. The system is in "Open Loop" before the oxygen sensor has warmed up to operating temperature. When operating in "Closed Loop," the ECM continually adjusts air/fuel ratio according to oxygen sensor input and operating information received from various other sensors.
To give an extra margin of safety in the event of system failure, the output of the ECM will automatically switch to fail-safe mode if a fault is detected in any of these components and/or systems:
Oxygen sensor
Coolant temperature sensor
Throttle valve switch system
Air flow sensor system
If a malfunction develops in the micro computer within the control unit, the back-up control system will maintain the minimum necessary ECM functions to permit vehicle operation.
This system incorporates self-diagnostic capability that is monitored via a dash mounted "Check Engine" light. When the system detects a fault in a monitored component and/or circuit, the light will come on and stay on (while the engine is running), alerting the driver to seek service. With intermittent problems, the light may come on and then go out, but a trouble code will be stored in ECM memory if correct parameters are met. The technician can then extract trouble codes from the ECM that will aid in the performance of efficient troubleshooting and repair.
The provision for communicating with the engine control module is the Data Link Connector. The data link connector is located behind the lower front instrument panel. It is used in the assembly plant to receive information in checking that the engine is operating properly before it leaves the plant. The diagnostic trouble code(s) stored in the engine control module's memory can be read either through a hand-held diagnostic scanner plugged into the data link connector or by counting the number of flashes of the "Check Engine" malfunction indicator lamp when the diagnostic test terminal of the data link connector is grounded.
Data Link Connector
The data link connector terminal "1" (diagnostic request) is pulled "Low" (grounded) by jumpering to data link connector terminal "3", which is a ground wire. This will signal the engine control module that you want to "flash" diagnostic trouble code(s), if any are present. Once terminals "1" and "3" have been connected, the ignition switch must be moved to the "ON" position, with the engine not running. At this point, the "Check Engine" malfunction indicator lamp should flash diagnostic trouble code 12 three times consecutively. This would be the following flash, sequence: "flash, pause, flash - flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash - flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash - flash". diagnostic trouble code 12 indicates that the engine control module's diagnostic system is operating. If diagnostic trouble code 12 is not indicated, a problem is present within the diagnostic system itself, and should be addressed by consulting the appropriate diagnostic chart.
Following the output of diagnostic trouble code 12, the "Check Engine" malfunction indicator lamp will indicate a diagnostic trouble code three times if a diagnostic trouble code is present, or it will simply continue to output diagnostic trouble code 12. If more than one diagnostic trouble code has been stored in the engine control module's memory, the diagnostic trouble code(s) will be output from the lowest to the highest, with each diagnostic trouble code being displayed three times.
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/?50@@.599f9b85!photoLoc=.599febe2&skipNext=0&su- bmitNext=1&noThumbs=1#pic
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.599febdc
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
Inside the ecm, the prom is the chip that has the information to operate the engine, trans, etc. It is a read only chip, so the only way to change it is to reprogram it, which a dealership MAY be able to do, but really not necessary if original part number is swapped 1 for 1. You mentioned in previous posts using a memory calibrator that came with the replacement ecm. The information (part number) you gave them should have determined the proper ecm to supply. Sorry, but that is about all I can tell you.
BULLETIN NUMBER SB90-02-001
ISSUE DATE January 11, 1990
GROUP FUEL
TROOPER II (KT) ECM COMPONENTS
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1989-1990 Trooper II (KT) models with V6 engine.
SERVICE INFORMATION
Some diagnostic procedures in the Driveability and Emissions section of the 1989 Trooper/ Trooper II V6 Workshop Manual Supplement require replacement of ECM components (ECM box, CALPAK or calibrator). Replacement ECM components for affected vehicles are now available from your facing Parts Distribution Center.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Replace ECM box, CALPAK or calibrator (PROM) if required during Emissions and Driveability diagnostic procedure. If only ECM box is replaced, old CALPAK and PROM must be switched from old ECM box.
Install new ECM components as described on pages 6E2-C1-1 and 6E2-C1-2 of the 1989 Trooper/Trooper II V6 Workshop Manual Supplement (part No. 2-90989-033-0).
When replacing the calibrator (PROM), be sure to install the appropriate part number for the vehicle model year and transmission type.
PARTS INFORMATION
Part No. Description
8-01228-062-0 ECM Box
8-16051-459-0 CALPAK
8-16120-506-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1989 models)
8-16120-506-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1990 Federal M/T models)
8-16120-497-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1990 Calif. M/T models)
8-16133-970-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1990 Federal A/T models)
8-16133-982-0 Calibrator (PROM) (1990 Calif. A/T models)
IF pump is on briefly when key is turned to on, then move on to checking if there is spark at the spark plugs. If spark is there, I would suggest that fuel injection may be the problem. This is controlled through the ecm, but there are several modules and relays in between. I will post a picture of the relays under the hood that could also be part of the problem, but you really have to have a digital multi meter to check them and know what to look for. Here is a link to see the picture http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/?50@@.599f9b85!photoLoc=.59a16cf4&skipNext=0&su- bmitNext=1&noThumbs=1#pic
Best of luck,
Sincere thanks,
Dave
Knock on wood, the Trooper impresses me with it's strong basic architecture and functional utility. My used 94 was years ahead of competitor's comparable models of the same year.
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I bought my first Trooper new in 1984, because it was big inside, tight and rattle free and light on its feet even with the little 1.9L engine, and because in 1984 the Trooper was $11K or so compared to $15K or so for the GM version. I even bought the extended engine warrantee figuring that the little 1.9L would not hold up, 201K trouble free miles later I sold it because of I wanted to upgrade to a Trooper with Air Conditioning.
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Next was my 1995 Trooper, this one was way more truck like and I really like the way the rear suspension is put together, it makes it a solid pltform for handling an eliminated trailer sway when towing. I made it even better by adding the OME suspension package including progressive rear coil springs and shocks. Unfortunately, a few seconds after my passenger was complementing how pristine my Trooper was, my 1995 Trooper met an early end at only 140K was rear ended so hard (the Volvo that hit it was crushed even its roof collapsed)the Trooper's air bags went off and the Trooper while it had been stopped was thrown into the pickup ahead, but even in adversity, the 1995 Trooper was able to drive home it drove really well in fact, but the insurance adjuster totalled it.
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So, even though my wife wanted to replace it with a small sedan, I bought a 2001 Trooper 30K used this time and put the OME suspension on it because I was used to the nice ride and good control. All of my Troopers have been stick shift type and I like that about them too. Now the 2001 is only has 80K on it and a long life ahead since they aren't making them anymore.
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The total price of these three Troopers is ($11K + $22K + $13K = $46K) easily $10K less than my brother paid for one Toyota Landcruiser, and about what many people pay for one SUV, so I feel that the economy of owning a Trooper can't be beat.
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I would buy another Trooper if they would get the diesel version into the USA, since in the UK the diesel Trooper gets 31mpg.
please if anyone have a wiring diagram of power windows electrical isuzu trooper 98 to scan/email to me ?? or where can i get that information ??
thank for you help !!!
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/?50@@.599f9b85
i will check righ now if those color of my wiring power switch is equal to the diagram.
thank for you time
but i am going to need the automatic door lock diagram too
please, if there is not to much problem, could you put in your album automatic door lock diagram.
thank again for your time....
INSTALLATION
Remove valve cover.(Unless you are absolutely sure you are on compression stroke for number 4 cylinder. Following these instructions, both valves for no. 4 cylinder would be closed (longest amount of valve stem above head showing on both at same time.)
Timing Mark
Move No. 4 cylinder to TDC on compression stroke. Be sure timing marks are aligned.
Apply engine oil to distributor O-ring.
Alignment Marks
Align distributor case setting mark with distributor shaft setting mark. I have posted a diagram at
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a1b738
Fit distributor to cylinder head and align distributor shaft setting mark with cylinder head setting mark.
Refit valve cover.
Tighten distributor mounting bolt to:
14 ft lb (19 Nm)
Refit spark plug wires.
Check and adjust ignition timing. Refer to Powertrain Management/Ignition System/Adjustments .
Adjust ignition timing under the following conditions:
Engine at normal operating temperature.
Lights, A/C, and accessories turned off.
Engine idling at proper idle speed, with throttle valve completely closed and idle switch "ON" (see IDLE SPEED under ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES ).
Transmission in "Park" or "Neutral".
Timing procedure:
Connect timing light.
Loosen distributor mounting bolt.
Adjust timing to specification: 12°BTDC @ 900 rpm.
Tighten distributor mounting bolt.
Recheck timing, repeat adjustment if necessary.
Hope this helps.
i have changed all the windows switch and all of them working perfect, from the driver's switch i can close and open all the windows.
about lock and unlock system.... from de passenger's swicth i can lock and unlock all the door.
but from the driver's switch i just try it but i can not to lock and unlock.....
those schematic (power lock diagram) that you have posted are very hardly to see what color are ?
please, could you scan again those pictures ????
i will appreciate it, and thank again for you time !