Hello everybody, hi atfdmike... first i want to say thank very much for help atfdmike, now everything work fine. power windows switch ------ OK. power lock/unlock switch --- OK.
my problem was isuzu trooper 94 have a relay for lock and unlock at right kick panel so i had to unplug the relay because the 98 windows swith have a relay inside. so 2 relay do not work. now my door lock good and working good thank again.
My throttle sticks sometimes. I'll start, then put it in gear, and give it gas to get out of my driveway or parking spot at work. Tonight, it stuck and I almost rammed the fence around our parking lot. I had heard that Isuzu had a recall about this issue, so I called them, but was told that my VIN was not in the affected group. Could have fooled me... Anyone have any suggestions about what could be the cause of this or how to fix? Thanks! :sick:
The 95 Trooper does not have "drive by wire" electric throttle, so you have mechanical linkage that you can follow. The method is called "hand over hand" circuit tracing. Find your throttle pedal, climb down there and look at how it moves, examine the pivot points, look for interferance with wires hanging down or anyhting in the path of what moves. Next get a friend to operate the throttle (engine is off for all of this) while you find the moving parts under the hood. Same thing look for where the moving parts pivot or enter the firewall. Cables can get sticky inside, or if they get kinked, they can bind. Make sure all parts can move freely, perhaps some cleaning is needed with a penetrating oil like SiliKriol or other similar spray product, but only use the chemical or lube where is is actually needed as excess will tend to attract dirt. If the problem is not discovered by visually watching it move, you may want to isolate the cause by disconnecting somehting so there are two separate mechanical systems to "hand over hand" observe and soon you will find the problem. .. I had a throttle body wear out under the carburator on my 1984 Trooper, changed out the throttle body part and cleaned up the linkages and everything worked great, also eliminated a vacuum leak so it idled much better too. You 1995 does not have a carburator, but it must have a throtle body and probably there is a shaft through it that must pivot freely. .. Have fun, I like that kind of puzzle as long as I'm not in a hurry to go..
There are service bulletins at Isuzu for this. If this is your engine, this may help. The advice Boxtrooper gave you is real good and will help you find the components . Good Luck.
1995 Isuzu Truck Trooper (4 Door) V6-3165cc 3.2L DOHC (6VD1) Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Throttle Cable/Linkage Technical Service Bulletins Recalls Recall 04V199000: Accelerator Cable Sticking
Recall 04V199000: Accelerator Cable Sticking
DEFECT: On certain sport utility vehicles, the accelerator cable can stick so that the engine speed will not immediately decrease upon release of the accelerator pedal. This can cause the accelerator throttle cable to delay rpm and vehicle speed reduction for several seconds after the accelerator pedal is released, which in turn, can lead to a crash.
REMEDY: Dealers will replace the throttle cable rubber boot. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification is expected to begin during May 2004. Owners may contact Isuzu at 1-800-255-6727.
Number 04V-199 has been assigned to this campaign by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). This number will appear on all communications and documentation of any nature dealing with the campaign.
Affected Vehicles
1992-1995 Isuzu Trooper (UX) vehicles equipped with V6 engines with the following VIN range JACDH58V7N7900012 - JACDJ58V5S7906162.
Service Information
Condition: On some vehicles, the accelerator cable dust cover may deteriorate, causing the cable dust cover to adhere to the inner throttle cable. This can cause the accelerator throttle cable to delay RPM and vehicle speed reduction for several seconds after the accelerator pedal is released, which in turn, can lead to a crash without warning.
Correction: Follow the service procedure in this bulletin to replace the accelerator cable dust cover.
Dealer Responsibility
Isuzu dealers are required to service all eligible vehicles at no charge to the owner, regardless of mileage, age of vehicle or ownership.
Whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign is in a dealer's vehicle inventory or arrives at the dealership for service, the dealer must take the necessary steps to ensure that this campaign correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
Each Isuzu dealer will be supplied a copy of the AIMI Campaign Report (AWS-123-1A) listing affected vehicles assigned to that dealership. The report contains VIN and detailed owner information obtained from state motor vehicle registration records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a violation of the law in several states. Accordingly, dealers are urged to limit the use of this listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this campaign. If none of the affected vehicles are assigned to a dealership, no campaign report will be sent.
Owner Notification
Isuzu Motors America, Inc. will send a notification letter to owners of affected vehicles already retailed (see enclosed copy). Dealers should follow up with vehicle owners by sending a Campaign Reminder Notice (AIMI SVCF-1052) to all vehicle owners listed in the AIMI Campaign Report (AWS-123-1A). Dealers may obtain these postcards from their Regional Office.
Applying the Campaign Label
Affix the campaign label P/N 2-90028-700-0 adjacent to the manufacturer's identification label located inside the driver's door. Using a ballpoint pen, fill in the label with campaign number 04V-199, Isuzu dealer code and repair date.
Parts Information
Warranty Claim Information
Use the labor operation shown.
NOTE :
1. Labor Time includes administrative time allowance.
2. Information released on paper and electronic format prior to bulletin release cannot be updated.
3. Always refer to the Isuzu Service Policy Procedure Manual for specific details on warranty coverage and policies.
As a follow up to your problem, check the vehicle ID number yourself to see if you got the right info from the dealer. They should fix it if your VIN falls within the guidelines of the recall. If not, as a follow up to boxtrooper, I can post a picture of the cable parts, just let us know.
My 86 Trooper only has wipers on high speed. Nothing on intermintent nor slow speed. I was thinking of the combination switch being shot but before I replace this rather pricey switch, is it possibe that there is a relay in the circuit that could be failing? If so, where is it? Thanks.
atfdmike: Since the VIN range for the recall is JACDH58V7N7900012 - JACDJ58V5S7906162, and my VIN is: JACDJ58V4S7921576,
Then it stands to reason that my vehicle should be covered by this recall and the Isuzu guy I spoke to was wrong. Thanks for your help, I'll give them another call. If they still don't budge, I'll follow your suggestions.
Hi, I am not personally familiar with your year and model, but I did a little research and found a schematic of the wiper washer system. The service manual refers to a wiper relay but I could not find it in the schematic, which is kind of a unique situation. I am not a whiz at troubleshooting by paper, so maybe looking at the diagram can help you. These two locations have the wiring pictures. You may have to enlarge them but they seem pretty easy to read. It does appear to me that it could be the motor or the switch, as the motor may have the relay in it or as part of it and the diagram shows different contacts for speed control. Good Luck. http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a21059 http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a2105e
I had the same problem " run 3-5 seconds and quit" with my 89 2.6 fuel injected trooper, after toying with different things I saw online changed out the fuel pump 300+, fuel regulator 20 and the thought of changing out the ecu $$$, not to mention the countless hours of beating my head off the hood for buying this thing, :off a hunch: I pulled the fuel pump relay out. ( now hear me out ) pop the cover off the top of the relay, you will find a spring in there, carefully stretch the spring out a bit so the electromagnet doesn't have to pull as hard to keep the truck running. THAT IS ALL I DID AND I HAVE NOT HAD A PROBLEM KEEPING THE TRUCK RUNNING SINCE.... sounds retarded but with the computer problems on these trucks it's a very cheap fix
Just got off the phone with Isuzu customer support. They say that even though my VIN is within the VIN range, that the production date for the recall was through January of 1995, and my vehicle was mfg'd in July of '95, and is thus not covered. If it wouldn't be too much trouble for you to post the cable part pic, I'd really appreciate it.
Really sorry to hear Isuzu would not help you. I have posted two diagrams of the cable and adjustment procedure. The link to the pics are: http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a212fb
To adjust to factory specs, do the following after you complete repairs, refer to diagram showing cable adjusting nuts and: Loosen adjusting nut. Lock throttle valve fully closed and pull outer cable. Adjust nut "B" so that clearance is as shown. Push nut "B" against bracket and tighten nut "A" to lock cable. I hope this information helps you. You may well need to spend quite some time to determine which part is binding and then fix it. It is too dangerous, as you know, not to do it right. Best of Luck!
Thanks for these! While I was at lunch today, I thought I'd poke around and see if I could figure out what was binding. At first, it seemed like something inside. There was kind of a hanging point before I could press the pedal all the way, then the pedal was held up on its return to the original position. I opened the hood and looked at where the throttle cable attaches. What I found was exactly what the Isuzu recall was for. The dust cover over the end of the throttle cable sheath had come loose and seemed to be partially melted. The inner cable was covered in sticky black stuff, which I assume is the rubber from the dust cover. I removed the dust cover until I can get a new one and cleaned the rubber off the cable. RPMs seem to be dropping properly now and there is no more binding in either direction.
Can't get my 97 trooper out of 4 wheel drive. My car sits for periods of time, and I corrected the problem once by spraying 4D-40 on the cable under, but it has frozen again. I don't need 4 wheel drive in FL. can this cable be disconnected easily? Thanks for any advise
I had the same problem " run 3-5 seconds and quit" with my 89 2.6 fuel injected trooper, after toying with different things I saw online changed out the fuel pump 300+, fuel regulator 20 and the thought of changing out the ecu $$$, not to mention the countless hours of beating my head off the hood for buying this thing, :off a hunch: I pulled the fuel pump relay out. ( now hear me out ) pop the cover off the top of the relay, you will find a spring in there, carefully stretch the spring out a bit so the electromagnet doesn't have to pull as hard to keep the truck running. THAT IS ALL I DID AND I HAVE NOT HAD A PROBLEM KEEPING THE TRUCK RUNNING SINCE.... sounds retarded but with the computer problems on these trucks it's a very cheap fix
The weekend is upon us and I have not seen a response yet, so I will volunteer a couple of things that could be going on, but the 97 service manual does not show a cable for the shift lever to the transfer case. If you are shifting into 2High but the transfer case is staying in 4High, then the problem sounds like a transfer case problem. It could be the shift fork or shift lever is worn, or broken. If, however, you are shifting it into 2High and still seeing the four wheel drive light illuminated, but not actually driving in 4High but 2High, it could be the transfer case indicator switch at fault. Also, if you have the automatic hubs on your 97, then it is necessary to back up AT LEAST 3 revolutions of the tire (about 8 feet) OR more to get the auto hubs to unlock. If it is just the hubs failing to unlock, you could try backing up further distances and first warm up the hubs by driving around a while. Note that if the transfer case is not shifting into 2High you will never get the front hubs to remain unlocked. As soon as you drive forward, they will re-engage if they are seeing the front propeller shaft driving them as though it is in 4High. This is a lot of info, but basically you have to be sure exactly what the 97 is doing. Can you tell by driving it if the transfer case is in 4High, ie: at a slow speed does the trupr kind of hop and struggle around tight corners on dry pavement which would indicate the transfer case and hubs are both in 4High and engaged? Also, you might try putting the 97 in to 4Low and driving it a little and then shifting to 2High to see if that solves the problem. While there are some differences between automatic trans and manual trans, the transfer case shifter appears to work the same. Also, manual and automatic hubs were available on the 97, and you do not indicate what you have. Be patient and methodical in analysing what you have and if you still cannot figure out what is going on, then maybe someone else here has experienced your problem and will have time to write. Good luck with it!
I had the same problem with it sticking in four wheel drive. I took it out of four wheel and then reversed it eight feet or so. Then drove forward. The auto hubs released. I also had a problem with the hose on top that said my four wheel was on when it wasn't. I have heard, if you use the four wheel drive for fifteem minutes or so in high and low once a month it will help keep it from sticking.
A Toyota Landcruiser $65K+ that I know of was not used in 4low for several years. Now the shift lever will not go to 4 low, and the owner cannot justify spending big bucks to let Toyota unstick it, so it is now only a 4hi full time 4wd Land Cruiser. .. I make a point of using my Trooper's 4x4 modes once a month just as a regulat preventative maintenance.
ok as i posted before i was having problems with my ECM at first well we got a new one and new Prom & Memory Calibrator and still nothing the check ingine light still is not coming on why wouldn't the check engine light come on if all of that stuff is new what could be going on? I'm at a complete loss. Anyone in the market for an 89' Trooper that won't run LOL... really does anyone have ant advice......(oh and we tried the fuel pump first as well as changed the fuel filter) ahhhh help
What are the likely candidates for the cause of your problem? .. What other maintenance or repair or symptoms have occured recently or in the last mements the engine actually was running? I nice summary will make it easier to get the collective brains reading this discussion engaged.
did you try the fuel relay in the fuse box under the hood, seriously, pop of the top and stretch the spring out just enough that the electromagnet in it doesn't have to work as hard, it will kill the fuel pump within seconds if the magnet is not strong enough!!!!!!!!!! I have and 89 trooper this is what got mine running. let me know if it works
We discussed the check engine light previously, and I am basing this on the 4 cylinder engine, So first you should activate the aldl connection first to see if you are getting a blinking 12 signal now on the light, if not,or if you get nothing, then it would still be something to do with the ecm or the connectors going to or from it. If it does flash the 12 code to you , then the problem lies with a switch, sensor, relay (like the fuel relay mentioned by dexta) or something else that would not trigger a check engine condition. The primary elements for a motor to run are air, fuel and ignition. Air is pretty obvious to check, and fuel can be checked by monitoring the fact that the pump should turn on briefly when the key is turned to run position. You should then check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the engine. If you put a guage on and have someone turn the key on while you watch the guage, you should see pressure surge on the guage. If not, you can use a jumper wire, connect relay connector terminals as shown in the illustration posted at http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a2a7cd and which is under the hood on your trupr.
Turn key ON. Fuel pressure should be 245 kPa (35 psi). Assuming there is fuel pressure, then ignition is next to check. You can simply disconnect a spark plug wire to see if you are getting a spark jumping if you put a spark plug in the boot and ground the plug to the engine temporarily. If you get a strong spark, then it would then appear to be a timing problem. There is a sensor in the distributor that could fail that tells the ecm when to fire at the right time for each cylinder. No spark could also be a bad coil pack. There are specific ways to check on these if you get this far. From a mechanical perspective, the timing belt could have slipped,or broken; if it slipped, you might still see a spark, but it would be timed wrong. If it is broken, then the valves are not working and the distributor on your engine will not rotate either, which would also mean no spark. Timing belts and their adjuster are a common problem and the timing marks are on the belt and engine to check but you have to remove the belt covers which can be a pain, but necessary. These are some basic things to check and you can get back to us with your conclusions and we may be able to explore other areas. Please be careful, as spilled fuel from the pressure check can be ignited by the spark check, and rotating pulleys and fans can also be hazardous. You are going to learn a lot while doing this, but approach it methodically and carefully, and assume you will have to spend some time with it and you should be able to figure it out. What I have outlined is the basic stuff that will give you more information than you have now. Any good mechanic will probably do these things as well before they can get a good sense of what is happening with your trupr. Let us know how things go!! Sorry about being so wordy, all!
:confuse: Just bought a 93 Trooper LS for my daughter and found it would not pass emissions test (probably why they traded it in). Found an ECM (P/N 3000075 ver.1.0) under the seat and want to make sure this is not the reason, or verify that it has been replaced. Where is it located in a 93 Trooper. Removed the center console and lower center dash, but could not find it. Did I look the right place? Or, am I approaching this bass aackwards? My next step is to start replacing the O2 sensor(s) and the MAP module. Thanks!
Electronic Control Module (ECM) Manual Trans 8161950790 Auto Trans 8161950690
To access trouble codes, a jumper lead must be fitted to ALDL connector. With the ignition "OFF" connect these two leads together. Turn ignition "ON" but do not start engine. "Check Engine" light will begin to flash code 12. Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes. After a longer pause, code 12 will repeat two more times. This check indicates that the on-board diagnostic system is functioning. If no other codes are present, the cycle will repeat until the ignition is switched "OFF."
If trouble codes are stored in memory, the lowest number code will flash three times followed by the next higher code number until all stored codes have been displayed. The codes will then repeat in the same order until the test lead is disconnected.
If check engine is not blinking, and depending on how badly it failed the emissions test, a simple tuneup may do it, or O2 sensor and a cleanup on the EGR valve.
Negative battery cable Lower trim panel at console (4 fasteners) Air Conditioning Heater transfer tube ABS controller electrical connector (1) (if equipt) ABS controller (4 fasteners) (if equipt) Four (4) fasteners for ECM bracket ECM electrical connectors (2) ECM from 'inder dash, bracket still attached NOTE: To prevent possible Electronic Discharge damage to the ECM, Do not touch the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board. good luck hope this helps.
I suggest you check or have checked the ecm for trouble codes before you start replacing parts. It was kind of early when I wrote the previous so I may not have been too clear, but it is not hard to check for codes. Just follow the directions and here is a link to show what the aldl looks like in your model and where it is:
If I were approaching this, I would check for codes first, before trying to ID the ECM. If no codes,you could then do the basics like tuneup, EGR cleanup, O2 sensor. After I did a little more checking, The part numbers in the previous post are for the DOHC engine. The SOHC cam original ecm part nos. are: Part OEM Engine Control Module Electronic Control Module (ECM) Manual Trans Federal 8161956960 California 8161951690 Auto Trans 8161951090 Hope this amateur advice helps. Let us know what you do.
Thanks for the assist! I will plan to try this tonite when I get home from work. The pics really helped clarify. Will update as soon as I find out what is going on. As far as failing emmissions testing . . . it had a count of 550ppm, with anything above 220 failing. So, looks like the emmissions system on the Trooper is ailing big time. Plan to do the tune up too.
Well . . . followed Mike's advice and direction. First shot at this showed that the ECM is working, but the MAP sensor was bad (code 33). Immediate improvement in performance when replaced! Cleared the codes and letting my daughter drive it today. Will check codes again tonight to see if other codes pop up. Looked like a code 33 could mask other codes and you have to step thru them. Mike, I only shorted one of the leads to black. Are you supposed to short both colored leads to black at the same time, or even one at a time? Thanks for your help big time!!
Sounds like you did everything right, and you used the right terminals. Please remember that unless the code was cleared manually, it will remain in the ecm memory for quite some time, so don't assume that since it is still there there is something wrong. I don't have my information at home, but you may be able to pull the ECM fuse in the fuseblock to clear codes. Removing power to the ECM also put it into its' default mode, and the vehicle may run a little differently until a number of miles are put back on .Otherwise, some codes will clear after a certain number of ignition cycles. Just a thought, but the MAP sensor senses air flow and a clean air filter is a must for it to work as intended, at least for emissions. Glad things are going good so far!
I'm not convinced it's the transmission. My Trooper started behaving sluggishly when the screen on the fuel pump got clogged with crap. This started out as a symptom under heavy loads and hills and progressively got worse to the point that I could barely climb a little hill. If those are your symptoms, try a new fuel pump and associated screen.
When this was happening, I would occasionally get a CEL, but not all the time. It would give me a lean reading on both banks.
I did clear the ECM codes after replacing the MAP sensor, but did it by disconnecting the neg battery terminal for about a minute. Yes, did replace the air filter and plug wires (plugs appeared to be almost new, just covered in carbon, so lightly brushed them off and re-gapped), plus did an LOF service. Daughter is really happy at the new found gas mileage improvement. Spent the weekend giving it a once over, and it appears to be pretty sound. Only question mark left is the steering and front end appears to be pretty soft with a bit of play. Hear that is a symptom of Troopers of that age. Someone suggested I install an anti-sway bar. Will take it in next week and have an alignment done. Over all, pretty happy with the rig!! Thanks again for the guidance.
The front end can be rejuvinated by: 1.) replacing the shocks 2.) replacing the sway bar bushings 3.) adjusting the steering box play 4.) using tires that provide handling All of these are inexpensive and make a safer vehicle to drive.
ive had my trooper for about a year, went wheeling yesterday and on the way home [ on pavement] my clutch started slipping baddly. ive checked the master cylinder..could it be the damper or slave? or am i looking at a clutch change?/ if it is a change this looks like a major job. ive done all the breaks and shocks, pretty mechanicaly inclined, but it looks like i have to get into removing rusted exsaust at the manifold. do i have to split the transfer case, or can transmission and case come out together??
A symptom of air in the clutch hyd. system is for dragging to occur when the clutch pedal is depressed. In other words, it won't disengage completely (if at all). In your case, it sounds as though it is fully engaged but slipping. I suppose that it is possible that there is a kink or something blocking the clutch release lever from letting the pressure plate engage the clutch completely. You might look to see the conditon of the line and bleed the system. I don't know if anything could physically restrict the movement of the clutch fork, like debris, but no harm looking. As far as changing it out, you don't have to split the cases, but you will have to remove crossmembers, drive shafts from tcase,Exhaust, slave cyl., shifter knob,trans harness, etc; to effect removal and repair. If you end up going with changing it yourself, there are a couple of things you should do before completely disassembling the clutch. Let us know and the info should follow. One guys opinion, good luck.
hey, thanks for the info. i did bleed the hydro system, found no problem there. have come to the conclusion that its a clutch change for sure. this job might be a little more than what im able to handle under current conditions, looks like ill be snapping off a lot of rusted bolts....going to check into having someone else do the job. probably big bucks involved. oh well you know what they say "if you wanna play, you gotta pay"
hello, my 95 trooper sunroof stopped working. it worked on and off for a while now it will not work with the button only manually. i checked the fuses and the windows and mirrors work. any ideas?
I have a 2002 Trooper with 55,000 on it and think I will change plugs. Hope is the mileage will improve and performance. Has anyone used the EGK Laser Iridium plugs? They are about $10.00 and if they are good they would pay for themselves very quickly. Also, my tranny slips sometimes just as I start up. If I back out on a hill then shift into drive to go up the hill the slip happens, not much but enough to notice. The fluid and filter was changed as required. I really do not want to have a tech dig around in it or on it until I get to Colorado. The dealership in Boulder has a really good tech. Any thoughts?
DANGER...only use the plugs listed in your owners manual. The Trooper is not friendly to plugs other than those. I looked and can't find the detail, but something to do with the resistance. The CEL will most likely come on if you use anything other than the 3-4 listed in your manual. My 2000 Trooper LS had the Champions. From my notes:
Also, beware the rubber boot that fits between the coil and plug...many of these are somewhat stuck and you can tear that if you pull too hard..something over $100 I hear since you have to buy the boot and coil as a unit. I had one that just would not come off..then I thought of something...using a small air compressor and an pointed adapter that came with it (for use to blow up air mattresses, etc.) I put the adapter down the center hole and turned on the air...the boot just popped right off with no problem. (They stick to the top of the plug.)
Also, I think it was the number 6 plug...to get to the two screws that hold the coil on I had to use a little 90* screwdriver...not much room..a flex adapter might be helpful.
Good luck,
Bill
BTW, the Champions were between $4 & $5 each at Walmart, Autozone, Napa, etc.
Hi, If you want to troubleshoot it yourself, make sure the switch works ok. the electrical diagram is posted at http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a34a31!v= for you. Aside from the main switch, there are a couple of limit switches mounted by the track the glass moves in that must work correctly or they can stop the motor from engaging. They are there for safety. If I was checking this, I would see that they are not jammed and are free to move or function. If they check all right, there is a solid state module that conrols the sunroof from the commands from the switch. I don't think you can do much with this, but I would insure that everything else works as designed before changing it. It is probably expensive and hard to find used. Hope this helps, maybe someone else has actually worked on one and will post.
My son-In-Law has a 1989 Trooper that has been sitting for about two years with a bad clutch. He's ready to tackle the clutch now, but we can't get it started. The engine turns over but will not fire. I've disconnected the fuel lines from the intake and it appears he's not getting fuel to the engine. I also don't hear the fuel pump turn on when the key is switched on. Is there a way to test the fuel pump or the relay to see which might be at fault? I hate to throw money at replacement parts without being certain I'm fixing the problem. Any thoughts, ideas or words of encouragement would be greatly appreciated.
You might try a forum search for answers. I responded to a post with #11246, which includes a photo link for fuel relay check. Dexta also has a neat trick for the relay if that is where the trouble lies. Post again as you narrow things down. By the by, the fuel pump only turns on for a couple of seconds when the key is turned on, so even if it is turning on it might take a number of turns to get fuel up to the engine at proper pressure since it has been sitting for so long. Good luck
I've looked at the photo link you referred me to. Am I correct in assuming that the jumper link by-passes the relay and will engage the pump? If that is so, then if the pump works with the jumper in place, the relay must be bad. If the pump still does not work with the jumper in place, my next check is to see if I'm getting power to the pump. And I think the only way to access the harness connection is to drop the tank. From what I've seen elsewhere on this forum, we probably need to drop the tank anyway to see if the screen around the pump is clogged.
Yes, you assume correctly, and you should check for voltage before jumpering. I think you are correct about dropping the tank, if the pump runs but still no fuel then a clogged screen is definitely a possibility, but I am not sure if there is still an inline fuel filter that could also block flow. Might check for that too. Good luck
I haven't posted to the board in ages but a few of the long-term regulars might remember me. I'm driving my second Trooper now (1999) and the truck has been so reliable that I've forgotten some of the tech information. My questions:
1) Is the engine an interference design? Timing belt intervals are 100K on a 1999 if I recall.
2) I often get a lumpy and uneven idle but the engine smooths right out once it's above idle speed. I seem to remember that these were prone to a gasket failure (but I can't recall which one). O2 sensor? Other thoughts?
I think the interference issue has been discussed a few times in years past. I don't remember your particular engine's intereference results, but a discussion search might get it for you. Timing belt replacement can also include water pump and timing belt tensioner replacement, little or no addicitional labor cost to change those parts while front of engine is open. Back when I had my 1995's timing belt changed the cost was around $450 including parts and labor. That's very low cost compared to other vehicles for a timing belt change. My 2001 will be due for a timing belt change in only 16K more miles. .. My 2001 Trooper has had a lumpy idle as you describe, it was a faulty EGR valve, the port where the valve mounts must be scraped clean for a replacement to be most effective. EGR valve is a couple inches in diameter and hieght on the top of the engine at the fire wall end on the passenger side in the USA. Labor was about as much as the new EGR valve by my Isuzu specialist mechanic. I was told that if I let the EGR valve get worse eventually it would no idle at all. .. I also had to replace the intake manifold gaskets since in the 2001 model year they tend to go bad after 80K miles, that was another few hundred dollars. While leaking air into the engine at the manifold gasket leak idle smoothness can be effected and dirt can be pulled into the engine. .. I drive my Troopers the greater of 200K miles or 10 years, and I keep up with the maintenance so they keep running like new the whole way. 1984 Trooper new $11K, 1995 Trooper new $22K, 2001 Trooper 30K miles $13K, so $46K total for three Troopers with a combined 425K miles so far (the 1995 was rear ended and totalled at only 140K).
I am curious if you had the front end looked at and what the outcome was. I am currently looking at a 1994 Trooper S. Everything seems to be in good working order other than the very sloppy (lots of play), front end. Do you have any insight to this ?
I am looking at a 1994 Trooper S. It has 117,000 miles on it and is in good condition overall. The only apparent issue is the very sloppy front end , lots of play. The steering wheel does not line up straight either. Does anyone have any info that might help. Will this be costly to fix. I like the Trooper other than the steering problem. Thanks
The Trooper's steering wheel turns a shaft with a worm gear on the end that looks like screw threads. This worm gear meshes with another gear in the steering box. The depth of the worm gear into the steering gear is adjusted by a screw with a locking nut on top of the steering box. Play in the steering is greatly effected by the depth of the worm gear into the steering gear. The slop in the steering may be able to be corrected out with a simple adjustment. .. However, consider the cause of the problem also. Ask when was the last time the power steering fluid was changed? If it never has been changed, you might only have to adjust the slop out and change the power steering fluid for a long service life. There is a chance that the steering box has to be replaced, from a junk yard part probably for a few hundred dollars installed I am guessing. Power steering fluid change required to take apart a hose fitting, the labor involved will make the bill from your mechanic $50 to $80 I am guessing. .. Ask also has the steering wheel been removed and replaced? If so, why? That can cause the steering wheel not to be straight with the wheels.
Hi, I have a 94 Trooper and had the same issues when I bought it. I suggest you check the air pressure in the tires, condition of the tires (for signs of alignment problems, cupping, etc:) and finally wheel alignment. During an alignment, the steering wheel issue is addressed. Power steering fluid change is also recommended on a regular basis. If your steering is still too loose for your taste after this, then I would agree that the steering gear lash needs adjustment. Might be tough on the 94 due to age and rusting of the adjuster, but possible. If you change out the steering gear, you will probably need to have it aligned again, but it is cheaper to do the alignment now and see if it helps than to just change the gear. I had an alignment and new tires done on mine and the difference was enough to make the steering much more satisfactory. Good luck.
Comments
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a1ec94
first i want to say thank very much for help atfdmike, now everything work fine.
power windows switch ------ OK.
power lock/unlock switch --- OK.
my problem was isuzu trooper 94 have a relay for lock and unlock at right kick panel so i had to unplug the relay because the 98 windows swith have a relay inside.
so 2 relay do not work.
now my door lock good and working good
thank again.
Thanks! :sick:
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I had a throttle body wear out under the carburator on my 1984 Trooper, changed out the throttle body part and cleaned up the linkages and everything worked great, also eliminated a vacuum leak so it idled much better too. You 1995 does not have a carburator, but it must have a throtle body and probably there is a shaft through it that must pivot freely.
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Have fun, I like that kind of puzzle as long as I'm not in a hurry to go..
1995 Isuzu Truck Trooper (4 Door) V6-3165cc 3.2L DOHC (6VD1)
Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Throttle Cable/Linkage Technical Service Bulletins Recalls Recall 04V199000: Accelerator Cable Sticking
Recall 04V199000: Accelerator Cable Sticking
DEFECT: On certain sport utility vehicles, the accelerator cable can stick so that the engine speed will not immediately decrease upon release of the accelerator pedal. This can cause the accelerator throttle cable to delay rpm and vehicle speed reduction for several seconds after the accelerator pedal is released, which in turn, can lead to a crash.
REMEDY: Dealers will replace the throttle cable rubber boot. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification is expected to begin during May 2004. Owners may contact Isuzu at 1-800-255-6727.
TSB SBO4-02-S003
1992-1995 Isuzu Trooper Accelerator Cable Safety Campaign
04V-199
ISSUE DATE: MAY 2004
Campaign Identification Number
Number 04V-199 has been assigned to this campaign by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). This number will appear on all communications and documentation of any nature dealing with the campaign.
Affected Vehicles
1992-1995 Isuzu Trooper (UX) vehicles equipped with V6 engines with the following VIN range JACDH58V7N7900012 - JACDJ58V5S7906162.
Service Information
Condition:
On some vehicles, the accelerator cable dust cover may deteriorate, causing the cable dust cover to adhere to the inner throttle cable. This can cause the accelerator throttle cable to delay RPM and vehicle speed reduction for several seconds after the accelerator pedal is released, which in turn, can lead to a crash without warning.
Correction:
Follow the service procedure in this bulletin to replace the accelerator cable dust cover.
Dealer Responsibility
Isuzu dealers are required to service all eligible vehicles at no charge to the owner, regardless of mileage, age of vehicle or ownership.
Whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign is in a dealer's vehicle inventory or arrives at the dealership for service, the dealer must take the necessary steps to ensure that this campaign correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
Each Isuzu dealer will be supplied a copy of the AIMI Campaign Report (AWS-123-1A) listing affected vehicles assigned to that dealership. The report contains VIN and detailed owner information obtained from state motor vehicle registration records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a violation of the law in several states. Accordingly, dealers are urged to limit the use of this listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this campaign. If none of the affected vehicles are assigned to a dealership, no campaign report will be sent.
Owner Notification
Isuzu Motors America, Inc. will send a notification letter to owners of affected vehicles already retailed (see enclosed copy). Dealers should follow up with vehicle owners by sending a Campaign Reminder Notice (AIMI SVCF-1052) to all vehicle owners listed in the AIMI Campaign Report (AWS-123-1A). Dealers may obtain these postcards from their Regional Office.
Applying the Campaign Label
Affix the campaign label P/N 2-90028-700-0 adjacent to the manufacturer's identification label located inside the driver's door. Using a ballpoint pen, fill in the label with campaign number 04V-199, Isuzu dealer code and repair date.
Parts Information
Warranty Claim Information
Use the labor operation shown.
NOTE :
1. Labor Time includes administrative time allowance.
2. Information released on paper and electronic format prior to bulletin release cannot be updated.
3. Always refer to the Isuzu Service Policy Procedure Manual for specific details on warranty coverage and policies.
Robin...
Since the VIN range for the recall is
JACDH58V7N7900012 - JACDJ58V5S7906162, and my VIN is:
JACDJ58V4S7921576,
Then it stands to reason that my vehicle should be covered by this recall and the Isuzu guy I spoke to was wrong. Thanks for your help, I'll give them another call. If they still don't budge, I'll follow your suggestions.
Thanks again,
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a21059
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a2105e
Thanks again for your help!
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a212fe
To adjust to factory specs, do the following after you complete repairs, refer to diagram showing cable adjusting nuts and:
Loosen adjusting nut.
Lock throttle valve fully closed and pull outer cable.
Adjust nut "B" so that clearance is as shown.
Push nut "B" against bracket and tighten nut "A" to lock cable.
I hope this information helps you. You may well need to spend quite some time to determine which part is binding and then fix it. It is too dangerous, as you know, not to do it right. Best of Luck!
Thanks again for your help!
Thanks for any advise
This is a lot of info, but basically you have to be sure exactly what the 97 is doing. Can you tell by driving it if the transfer case is in 4High, ie: at a slow speed does the trupr kind of hop and struggle around tight corners on dry pavement which would indicate the transfer case and hubs are both in 4High and engaged? Also, you might try putting the 97 in to 4Low and driving it a little and then shifting to 2High to see if that solves the problem. While there are some differences between automatic trans and manual trans, the transfer case shifter appears to work the same. Also, manual and automatic hubs were available on the 97, and you do not indicate what you have. Be patient and methodical in analysing what you have and if you still cannot figure out what is going on, then maybe someone else here has experienced your problem and will have time to write. Good luck with it!
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I make a point of using my Trooper's 4x4 modes once a month just as a regulat preventative maintenance.
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What other maintenance or repair or symptoms have occured recently or in the last mements the engine actually was running? I nice summary will make it easier to get the collective brains reading this discussion engaged.
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a2a7cd and which is under the hood on your trupr.
Turn key ON. Fuel pressure should be 245 kPa (35 psi).
Assuming there is fuel pressure, then ignition is next to check. You can simply disconnect a spark plug wire to see if you are getting a spark jumping if you put a spark plug in the boot and ground the plug to the engine temporarily. If you get a strong spark, then it would then appear to be a timing problem. There is a sensor in the distributor that could fail that tells the ecm when to fire at the right time for each cylinder. No spark could also be a bad coil pack. There are specific ways to check on these if you get this far. From a mechanical perspective, the timing belt could have slipped,or broken; if it slipped, you might still see a spark, but it would be timed wrong. If it is broken, then the valves are not working and the distributor on your engine will not rotate either, which would also mean no spark. Timing belts and their adjuster are a common problem and the timing marks are on the belt and engine to check but you have to remove the belt covers which can be a pain, but necessary. These are some basic things to check and you can get back to us with your conclusions and we may be able to explore other areas. Please be careful, as spilled fuel from the pressure check can be ignited by the spark check, and rotating pulleys and fans can also be hazardous.
You are going to learn a lot while doing this, but approach it methodically and carefully, and assume you will have to spend some time with it and you should be able to figure it out. What I have outlined is the basic stuff that will give you more information than you have now. Any good mechanic will probably do these things as well before they can get a good sense of what is happening with your trupr. Let us know how things go!!
Sorry about being so wordy, all!
Idaho Gopher
Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Manual Trans 8161950790
Auto Trans 8161950690
To access trouble codes, a jumper lead must be fitted to ALDL connector. With the ignition "OFF" connect these two leads together. Turn ignition "ON" but do not start engine. "Check Engine" light will begin to flash code 12. Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes. After a longer pause, code 12 will repeat two more times. This check indicates that the on-board diagnostic system is functioning. If no other codes are present, the cycle will repeat until the ignition is switched "OFF."
If trouble codes are stored in memory, the lowest number code will flash three times followed by the next higher code number until all stored codes have been displayed. The codes will then repeat in the same order until the test lead is disconnected.
If check engine is not blinking, and depending on how badly it failed the emissions test, a simple tuneup may do it, or O2 sensor and a cleanup on the EGR valve.
Pictures of ECMat http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a2d6a9!v=
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a2d6ae!v=
REMOVAL
Negative battery cable
Lower trim panel at console (4 fasteners)
Air Conditioning Heater transfer tube
ABS controller electrical connector (1) (if equipt)
ABS controller (4 fasteners) (if equipt)
Four (4) fasteners for ECM bracket
ECM electrical connectors (2)
ECM from 'inder dash, bracket still attached
NOTE: To prevent possible Electronic Discharge damage to the ECM, Do not touch the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
good luck hope this helps.
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a2d6ef!v=
If I were approaching this, I would check for codes first, before trying to ID the ECM. If no codes,you could then do the basics like tuneup, EGR cleanup, O2 sensor.
After I did a little more checking, The part numbers in the previous post are for the DOHC engine. The SOHC cam original ecm part nos. are: Part OEM
Engine Control Module
Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Manual Trans
Federal 8161956960
California 8161951690
Auto Trans 8161951090
Hope this amateur advice helps. Let us know what you do.
When this was happening, I would occasionally get a CEL, but not all the time. It would give me a lean reading on both banks.
Regards,
Tom
1.) replacing the shocks
2.) replacing the sway bar bushings
3.) adjusting the steering box play
4.) using tires that provide handling
All of these are inexpensive and make a safer vehicle to drive.
if it is a change this looks like a major job. ive done all the breaks and shocks, pretty mechanicaly inclined, but it looks like i have to get into removing rusted exsaust at the manifold. do i have to split the transfer case, or can transmission and case come out together??
As far as changing it out, you don't have to split the cases, but you will have to remove crossmembers, drive shafts from tcase,Exhaust, slave cyl., shifter knob,trans harness, etc; to effect removal and repair. If you end up going with changing it yourself, there are a couple of things you should do before completely disassembling the clutch. Let us know and the info should follow. One guys opinion, good luck.
my 95 trooper sunroof stopped working. it worked on and off for a while now it will not work with the button only manually. i checked the fuses and the windows and mirrors work. any ideas?
Also, my tranny slips sometimes just as I start up. If I back out on a hill then shift into drive to go up the hill the slip happens, not much but enough to notice. The fluid and filter was changed as required. I really do not want to have a tech dig around in it or on it until I get to Colorado. The dealership in Boulder has a really good tech. Any thoughts?
Trooper spark plug Denso
NGK PFR5G-11
Manual:
K16PR-P11
PK16PR11
RC10PYP4
Also, beware the rubber boot that fits between the coil and plug...many of these are somewhat stuck and you can tear that if you pull too hard..something over $100 I hear since you have to buy the boot and coil as a unit. I had one that just would not come off..then I thought of something...using a small air compressor and an pointed adapter that came with it (for use to blow up air mattresses, etc.) I put the adapter down the center hole and turned on the air...the boot just popped right off with no problem. (They stick to the top of the plug.)
Also, I think it was the number 6 plug...to get to the two screws that hold the coil on I had to use a little 90* screwdriver...not much room..a flex adapter might be helpful.
Good luck,
Bill
BTW, the Champions were between $4 & $5 each at Walmart, Autozone, Napa, etc.
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a34a31!v=
for you. Aside from the main switch, there are a couple of limit switches mounted by the track the glass moves in that must work correctly or they can stop the motor from engaging. They are there for safety. If I was checking this, I would see that they are not jammed and are free to move or function. If they check all right, there is a solid state module that conrols the sunroof from the commands from the switch. I don't think you can do much with this, but I would insure that everything else works as designed before changing it. It is probably expensive and hard to find used. Hope this helps, maybe someone else has actually worked on one and will post.
Thanks,
Grey Eagle
Thanks for you help.
Grey Eagle
1) Is the engine an interference design? Timing belt intervals are 100K on a 1999 if I recall.
2) I often get a lumpy and uneven idle but the engine smooths right out once it's above idle speed. I seem to remember that these were prone to a gasket failure (but I can't recall which one). O2 sensor? Other thoughts?
Thanks,
Sean Reid
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My 2001 Trooper has had a lumpy idle as you describe, it was a faulty EGR valve, the port where the valve mounts must be scraped clean for a replacement to be most effective. EGR valve is a couple inches in diameter and hieght on the top of the engine at the fire wall end on the passenger side in the USA. Labor was about as much as the new EGR valve by my Isuzu specialist mechanic. I was told that if I let the EGR valve get worse eventually it would no idle at all.
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I also had to replace the intake manifold gaskets since in the 2001 model year they tend to go bad after 80K miles, that was another few hundred dollars. While leaking air into the engine at the manifold gasket leak idle smoothness can be effected and dirt can be pulled into the engine.
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I drive my Troopers the greater of 200K miles or 10 years, and I keep up with the maintenance so they keep running like new the whole way. 1984 Trooper new $11K, 1995 Trooper new $22K, 2001 Trooper 30K miles $13K, so $46K total for three Troopers with a combined 425K miles so far (the 1995 was rear ended and totalled at only 140K).
I remember you. Thanks very much for the response. I'll have the EGR valve checked. Thanks very much.
Cheers,
Sean
thanks
Thanks
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However, consider the cause of the problem also. Ask when was the last time the power steering fluid was changed? If it never has been changed, you might only have to adjust the slop out and change the power steering fluid for a long service life. There is a chance that the steering box has to be replaced, from a junk yard part probably for a few hundred dollars installed I am guessing. Power steering fluid change required to take apart a hose fitting, the labor involved will make the bill from your mechanic $50 to $80 I am guessing.
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Ask also has the steering wheel been removed and replaced? If so, why? That can cause the steering wheel not to be straight with the wheels.
If you change out the steering gear, you will probably need to have it aligned again, but it is cheaper to do the alignment now and see if it helps than to just change the gear. I had an alignment and new tires done on mine and the difference was enough to make the steering much more satisfactory. Good luck.