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-mike
-mike
On boats, wait til you get those nice I/O repair bills
Happy Boating.
-mike
-mike
-mike
As to the rotor size difference, I suspect that is only part of the story. What about the pad size and caliper design differences? My guess is that the fronts have bigger pads and/or a more robust caliper design than the rear.
Without towing my mileage runs around 19 mpg while doing 55-60 mph and around 17-18 doing 70-75 mph.
I can't complain about the mileage considering the size and weight of the truck and it has more the ample power to get the boat over mountain passes without holding up any traffic.
-mike
By the way Paisan I am going to take some pics of the '00 I have now so you can add them to your gallery. Hopefully I will be e-mailing them next week. Keep On Troopin'!!!!!!!!!!
-mike
-mike
-mike
I happened to have filled up on Sunday at the 1/2 mark and put in 12 gallons(24 total right?) so it appears to be even. Also, I think the gas low light came on for me at 3 gallons once because I put in almost 21 gallons at that fillup. which at say 15mpg is 45 extra miles which make the bottom half feel like it is less because none of us wants to run out of gas and the light comes on so early. I am not complaining cause I get better MPG than my buddy's Pathfinder and Tahoe!
Cheers,
Con
My empty light doesn't come on until it is on "E", with only a couple of gallons left.
-mike
-Ben
-mike
What kind of aftermarket wheels do you have? Did you modify the rims for performance purposes? If so, what rims & tires have you chosen and what results have you experienced? Have you done anything else to modify the ride?
Thanks, Chris
FWIW, all current Mercedes-Benz vehicles have EBD (Electronic Brake Distribution) which shifts more the braking effort to the rear brakes for improved wear and less heat. It's still not 50/50 though, or anywhere close that, but it is enough that it does help. EBD is not activated in curves for straight line stability reasons. It seems to work quite well; at Service A, my front pads had 60% left, and the rears 65% left. Very even considering that I have to do a lot of driving up and down slopes on almost a daily basis.
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accesories message boards
BTW, Has anyone thought about cross-drilled/sloted rotors? My buddy with a Acura TL just did it (plus it was cheaper than factory rotors) and it made a big change in stopping power. He used the same size rotors and standard pads. Our seat of pants test had a better firmer feel plus it appeared to stop faster(sorry no before and after tests were done). I heard cross-drilled rotors stop worse when cold but my buddy's TL seems to be fine even in January. I guess the down side for them for 4x4 is getting rocks stuck in the holes. Any input?
Cheers,
Con
-mike
So, the maximum refuel I've experienced is 21.5 gallons -- whats everyone elses? I would like to know if 22.5 is "usable" capacity.
BTW, I can "feel" the handling difference immediately after fueling from a near empty tank. Unfortunately, it's not a "remembered" feel that one can use to gauge need to refuel.
-mike
Back to the 60's here is a few reasons why they got similar milage:
1) Drive Ratio, they were geared a bit differently than todays trucks are geared
2) Aerodynamics, our trucks have the aerodynamics of a brick wall, not so on sedans in the 60's and 70's
3) I believe a lot of the V8s in the 60's didn't have much more than 215-250hp, except for muscle cars.
4) Emissions controls. Starting in '75 you had catalitic converters, air-pumps, etc. that all pushed milage/performance down and emission down as well.
5) I think todays HP ratings are mostly used as marketing ploys to draw people in.
My '74 olds 98 regency with a 455 4bbl Holley never got more than 13-14mpg on the highway, and in the city got like 8-10mpg which is much less than I get on my Trooper. You can get a Lincoln TC and it will get close to 21-22mpg on the highway, but there isn't much utility in a LTC.
-mike
I finally got around to calling my local Isuzu dealer and told them about it and the service guy told me it is the Power Train Control Module. Does this sound right. He said that the Power Train Control Module needs an update and that will solve my problem.
I am going to take it in next week and have them update the module and I will let everyone know if that solves the problem. In the meantime if someone else has had their Trooper serviced for this problem please let me know if it was the same thing they had done. Thanks.
Cheers,
Con
As far as tires, I left the stock 684's on it for now, I've got 48k on these things, I have about 5-10k left until it hits the wear bars. But when it's time to get new ones, I'm leaning towards the Dueler A/T 693's. (LT's not P-metric) I've had such good luck with these, might as well "go with what ya know" plus they're made in Japan, like the 684's. They also have a 30 day guarantee (for whatever reason your not satisfied, bring them back and swap them for whatever you want, Pirelli Scorp's maybe?).
In the future, I plan on doing the suspension work in stages. First I'm going to put the sway-a-way tosion bars on like SAHARA111 recommends (see #338 in aftermarket/accesories), I can't stand the nose dive under braking. Next, the OME shocks. I'll put the OME springs on only as a last resort. I don't tow often, so I'm not sure it's worth it. Someone here mentioned that the ride got a little harsh on the small stuff. I'm not sure I want that, but if I can't get the ride the way I want with the bars and shocks, then i'll do it.
-mike
David
My trooper made a noise when it was new (under 10K miles) basically the expansion and contraction of the muffler system. If you get a tin can banging it could be pinging?
-mike
-mike
Regards,
Con