has decent prices and multibrand selection. Shipping is fast and the people are good to deal with. I bought a Yakima rack from them 2 years ago at a better-than-local price and I had it in my hands in 3 days with normal shipping. Pat.
Longtime lurker, new Trooper owner here. I recently found a good deal on a '00 S 4WD and now am discovering why everyone is in love with their Troopers. I've scoured all of the sites mentioned (especially isuzu-suvs.com) and still have a few questions:
1. The Hidden Hitch seems to be a favorite. Is there a good place to pick one up on-line? How difficult are they to install? For reference, I can tear a AC up inside and out but generally am lacking the Mr. Goodwrench gene.
2. I have a factory Yakima roof rack installed that, according to the "towers", is for skis and snow boards only. Since I live in Las Vegas and there's not much snow in the desert, this does me no good. Any idea how I can remove these towers and install a fully-functioning rack? Anyone want to buy a ski/snowboard rack?
3. When I hit aboout 70 MPH on the freeway, I get a lot of wind noise that sounds like it is coming from the rear of the driver's door frame. Normal?
4. I miss not having a center armrest - this is the only thing I don't like about the S trim. Is there any way to add one aftermarket?
5. What happens if I engage TOD but then exceed 60 MPH with TOD on? What happens if I hit the TOD button while going above 60 MPH (as I almost did this weekend out of habit when I meant to hit the cruise control)?
Thanks for any help. I never thought I wanted an evil SUV, but my Trooper has convinced me otherwise.
Here's a video on How to Install a Roof Rack. But I've had bungies fail, so for me, a good rope and a trucker's hitch is the only way to go :-). Actually, the way they stuck the luggage up there, a good bump and it's going to fall down on your roof.
video clip Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
A local dealer has a very clean 2000 Trooper with TOD. The dealer was asking an incredible $25,600 but then came back at $19,995.00. This still seems a little high. Is the Isuzu warranty transferable or will I have to buy warranty protection?
I've engaged my TOD at 80-85mph, engages slightly clunky over 65, but doesn't hurt it. I've had TOD engaged and exceeded 110mph, 115mph to be exact without a problem. At the higher speeds it actually helps keep traction.
I'll have to check for the wind noise, but I regularly travel at 75mph no noticeable noise, except for my front bug shield that used to slap against the fenders. I'm working on replacing it with a lund unit.
I think the trick to the hidden hitch is that the instructions are not real clear and that you have to remove an existing bracket. Other than that it is only a matter of man-handling a bumper into position and installing some bolts. On the factory hitch there are 8 bolts 2 of which require a wrench and can only be tightened a 1/4 turn at a time. The other 6 are easy to spin on with a socket. You should be able to do this with no problem.
As to the wind noise, I have none in a 1999.
As to the Yakima rack - two words Mount Charleston. But then again if you don't ski you don't ski.
An add-on armrest that works seems to be a mirage. Lots of people want one, including me, but no one reports back that they have installed one that they are happy with. I suspect the problem is that the seat has to be designed with a lot of internal support in order to accept an armrest. I doubt that the S model seats have the same internal structure as the Trooper seats with the armrests. Thus, we cannot simply add on an armrest.
Sorry forgot to comment on these earlier. I have an LS 00 so I already have the arm rest. In '01 the S models come with the arm rest IIRC. The seats in the 00 S are in fact different. That is one reason I went to the LS. Not sure if one can be added easily or not worth the effort.
Hidden hitch is very easy to install. I did it with my buddy, took about 1/2hr-1hr and I'm not mechnically inclined at all. I think it takes 3 bolts on one side and 2 on the other. A tie-down brack has to be removed(bolt removal) and a tow-hook also needs to be removed. I put the tow hook in the front so I have 2 in the front now.
I've been pricing the 2001 troopers with the current incentives. The prices on Long Island seem to range from $20,900 for an S with a 5 speed to $22,000 for an S with an automatic, to aprox $24500 for an LS. Is the LS really worth all that extra money?
Also, is there anything wrong with the Isuzu hitch? I was going to try to make a deal that includes the hitch.
That pesky rattle under the chassis of the Trooper just got eliminated. It turned out to be one of the heat shields that are placed along the exhaust piping in various places. I was quite surprised to find that Isuzu sees the need to place so many of those darn things under there. Anyway, one of them had come loose, so I cinched him down with a hose clamp. No more rattle!
Got a couple questions. I saw on a post by paisan about the RPM's at about 70-75 mph. Did I see 2500 rpm?? That seems quite low to me. At these speeds my 97' hits about 2900-3000. Is there that much gearing differences in the year models? What RPM's were you running at 115 mph?
Here's another FYI....I was reading an article about fuel filters and replacement frequency's in a Mechanics Journal. The article, written by a mechanic, stated that he had seen fuel pumps pulling 18 amps, on high milage cars. Said that after a fuel filter change the current draw went down to about 9 amps. This was causing premature failure of fuel pumps in his opinion. Well I decided to change my filter since I've got 55000 miles on the Trooper. Typically I wouldn't do this unless the vehicle hesitated under full acceleration, symptom of lack of fuel delivery. When I finally got the hoses off it, I found it to clean as a whistle! Probably a tribute to better refining plants these days. Anyway, it appears I may have some air entrained in the system now, the Trooper has started having surging spells all of a sudden. Just thought I'd post this for your consideration. Happy Trooping!!
I took my 2001 Trooper S in for its first oil change. The salesman gave me free oil changes for the life of the vehicle, minus the oil filter. When the guy was writing up the ticket, I told him about the deal and showed him the paperwork. He didn't look too happy, not with me of course, but that he couldn't charge for the oil change. He gave me some printout and I asked him about the oil filter. He said don't worry about it. Where else can you get a free oil change, what a bargain.
CDANSWARTZ - I went through the same thoughts that you're having now. After all of the analyzing, I decided that I'm keeping it for 10 years, so the XTRA bells and whistles were worth the $$$$ to me. As far as the hitch, I got that included in my deal also, it's fine!
BSMART - At 75 MPH, it's at 2700 RPM for me. I have 49k on my stock tires and the circumference is smaller than new, I don't know how much of that is a factor.
@ 72mph it runs about 2500rpms @77mph which is what I normally run, it's around 2700rpms
The 3.5l probably helps (that's the main difference between the 97 and 98->01)
I went for the LS because: Moonroof Monotone Paint Upgraded Seats In-glass Antenna and Rear In-glass tinting
As for the hitch, if you can get it included go for it, but the Hidden hitch is truely hidden, which the stock OEM one is not hidden. But if you can get it for free go for it, if not the hidden hitch is about $125 from JC Whitney.
I'm driving a 93 Trooper currently but 22k for a S model with auto would have me seriously consider a 2001 . Cdanschwartz- Could you give me a heads up what dealer{s} on the island are selling it for that price.
I like the factory hitch which sticks out because this acts as a skid plate when going offroad and protects the rear bumper on sharp inclines.
I've got the 58" round bar Yakima rack with Q-towers. These racks have clips which cinch them onto the underside top of the door frame - one set goes over the front doors and one bar goes over the rear doors. This has the rack mounted towards the front and not the back like the factory rack. With tons of attachments possible, you can load any gear. Takes about 2 mins. to install/remove. I normally drive without the racks to prevent wind noise & better garage clearence, although with mounts and stock ground clearance I can still fit under 6' 5". I highly recommend this although it is extremely expensive.
Bike rack: Thule swing arm space station module. I had the cheaper four post hitch, but after the pin worked loose and it dropped damaging four bikes, I went with the mac-daddy. This rack holds four bikes and has a double hinged "box" which allows the rack to pull away from the vehicle with bikes mounted to provide access to open the rear doors. I keep this permanently mounted since it locks to my hitch. Also expensive but you get what you pay for.
Anyone coming to Uwharrie this weekend? See links at http://isuzu-suvs.com for details. Its a camping trip and off-road adventure in the Uwharrie National Forest in NC. Isuzu specific.
Just noticed that nobody has responded to your question.
I have a 2WD 2000 Trooper LTD, and live in Nashville. We get 5-10 snow/ice days here per year, and last winter I drove in it several times. I found the Troop handled better than my wife's 98 Nissan Maxima, which is a front wheel drive.
The WINTER setting does a good job getting you started without too much wheel spin. ABS helps you stop on top of packed snow. Coming out of our neighborhood, which is a left turn coming up a moderate hill onto another hill, the back end would kick out slightly, but it was controllable by steering into the skid. I think the TIRES help a lot, the stock bridgstones are knobby and just right for snow pack.
On ICE, all bets are off. I played around in some ice patches, but there is just nothing you can do there.
I think Ohio maintains their roads much better than Tennessee, and you'll find the 2WD does a good job there. You should hang onto it through a winter and see how it does before making a costly change. The value of your car has already dropped, so rather than realize that loss by selling, I would keep it through a winter up there, and see if it meets your needs.
It should be fine for the winter up there. But keep it a year and see how it does. You have til next spring to upgrade to a 4wd version of the trooper.
I can't remember where I read the comparison, I think it was consumer reports, but they did a $ to value comparison of 4wd with all season radials to a 2wd vehicle with an extra set of steel wheels & snow tires. The 2wd with snow tires beat out the 4wd every time in all the driving situations. Additionally, snow tires improve turning and stopping, whereas the 4wd only offers improved acceleration over four tires. Cost of 4wd systems are usually $2-3K+ over 2wd version & snow tires may be had for under $1K. Of course, 4wd with snow tires is best .
If there is heavy snow, 4wd will definitely help. Also 4wd helps not only in acceleration, but if you have crappy all-weather tires yeah, a good set of snow will help. I know my subaru and about 5 other subies I know had all weather tires last winter and they totally walked all over anything on the road (not many) 2wd vehicles around new-years last year.
(I recall a 4wd vs. 2wd w/snow tire comparison in Car and Driver, about 2 years ago. It might be searchable on caranddriver.com.)
And speaking of Bells and Whistles, I am still waffling on selling my '99 Trooper LTD, powered heated leather seats, powered heated mirrors, moonroof, 6 CD changer, trailer hitch, the works. 34.5k miles, Mobil 1 synthetic, never smoked in, never wrecked, never off road. I now have a good commuter car to replace it, but come to think of it, they do look nice together. I will consider any rational offer. Thanks.
-Ken (Northern Virginia location) ken_salen@hotmail.com
2004 Rodeo (SUV) Isuzu says the next Rodeo will NOT be a rebadged next-generation Chevy TrailBlazer off the GMT360 platform. Rather, the company indicates it will go with its own design, retaining body-on-frame truck construction and a range of four- and six-cylinder engines.
Well, if Isuzu ever does read this forum, they definitely know that we would all like to see the Trooper stay "Isuzu original". I'd be proud to see that happen.
I'm up to 1600 miles on my new 2001 Trooper S. Isn't it better to go ahead and change out the first oil now than wait for the 3000 mile mark? Isn't it best to get those nasty break-in engine shavings out of the engine? Or is that a myth?
Also, is the Mobil 1 worth the investment? The guy who bought my Millenia said that synthetic oil has the downside that it never gets dirty, and therefore, he reasoned that all that black stuff stays in your engine rather than coming out when you change your oil. I always thought that the oil turns black or dark because it was breaking down.
I live in Western PA but while on vacation in VA Beach last week I traded in my 93 TrooperS for a 2001S 4WD Auto for $18,900 I saw it in the local paper and couldn't pass it up! I bought it at Checkered Flag and for quite a bit less than my Trooper 8 years ago!
Signed the papers this evening for a light silver 2001 Trooper S 4x4 automatic. I paid $22,323 at a dealer on Long Island. I'm going to pick it up on Saturday.
I think that I'll try to keep this truck for a long time. I plan on towing a pop-up camper a few times per year and my wife will use it for daily shopping and driving the kids.
I think the Isuzu is a good value given the utility and the warranty. I'll keep you posted on how it holds up.
Wow, that guy who bought your Millenia is so wrong, I don't even know where to begin...so I'll just throw out a few things. First, all oil will get darker with use. This is due to "blow-by" around the piston rings, and consists of particulates and chemicals that are both combustion by-products and unburned fuel. This will accumulate irrespective of synthetic vs. dinosaur oil.
Second, the inside of your engine will be much cleaner with synthetic, because synthetic effectively doesn't break down. With dino oil, the sludge that builds up in an engine is due to breakdown of the molecule chains, and the burn-off of the lighter fractions. Dino oil is a hodgepodge of molecule sizes, while synthetic molecules are basically uniform size. Another effect of lighter fraction burn off is that the viscosity of dino oil will thicken over time, while synthetic will remain the same indefinitely.
I could go on, but tired of typing...let me know if you have any more questions. You can also read back on this forum...this topic has been discussed periodically before.
Most of your oil questions have no clearly right or wrong answers.
I think with today's manufacturing standards there is little likelihood that the engine has much in the way of shavings. Nor does it come with breakin oil that must be changed very early on. That being said, for very few extra bucks why not do the first oil change early just in case? FWIW I did mine early and found no metal bits on the magnetic drain plug.
As for Mobil 1, many people swear by it. However many of them claim that you should not use Mobil 1 for the first several changes. As to the "logic" that Mobil 1 is bad because your oil stays clean longer, how absurd. If your friend really believes that draining out really dirty oil is the way to go just tell him to do 50,000 miles oil changes.
While it may be counterintuitive, in practice oil viscosity does not increase with use it decreases. With dino oils the decrease is significant as the heat and shearing action of the engine destroys the added viscosity improving molecules. This destroys their function and leads to an overall thinning of the oil.
Hey guys I am noticing a little rust bubbling under the paint on both of my windshield wipers. I have a 2000 S model and that doesn't seem right. The rust is located on the wiper mount piece that comes up through the hood (or whatever that piece is called between the hood and windshield.) If you are looking out the windshield, look right where the wiper arm joins the stationary piece mounted to the hood. Does anyone else have this same problem?
Wow, it's amazing how many oil experts there are on this board! I believe some of you are right on target. One last addition. Mobil 1 is a GREAT product! It can be used right from the start on a brand new engine. How do I know? Well, GM uses it in some their new vehicles, right off the assembly line! My Safari van was purchased new with Mobil 1 in it and it's never had anything but Mobil 1 put back in it. It now has 69,000+ miles on it and it runs like a top! It has never exhibited a hint of an engine problem. Smooth, powerful, likely stronger feeling than the day I bought it. I would not hesitate to put Mobil 1 in any new automobile. Slick 50 on the other hand, is a different story. It's also a different animal. These teflon additives do not need to be put into an engine until the engine is "seated in" about 30,000 miles. Happy Trooping!!
On the question about keeping the Limited Edition Trooper, the answer is definitely, KEEP IT! That is an awesome truck, and will be hard to replace with a comparable unit, without a lot of expense. Keep it, keep it, keep it. Oh, unless I didn't mention it, Keep It!!
A few posts back there was a discussion about the use of Armorall and other products on vinyl interior etc.... one comment. Ever notice a film on the interior of your windshield after using a vinyl protectant product on your dash? It has the appearance of light fogging. It takes a couple weeks for it to appear but it's definitely there. Well, that's a by-product of the stuff you rubbed on your dash, that has been liberated by sunlight baking it off! Years ago I stopped using anything on my interior vinyl parts except a damp cloth. No fake shiny look, no cracking. I've got a related question or two about other things. 1st for those of you with leather interiors, what are you using on the leather to keep it soft and supple? And for those of you with the colored plastic flares on the wheel wells of your Troopers, what are you using on them and your bumper covers, to clean them after a good handwashing?
I'm sure this is somewhere in the 1495 messages, but from where should I order the Hidden Hitch for my 2001 Trooper? I will also need the wiring harness.
Did your 18,900 price include freight? I presume it did not include tt&l. Does checkered flag have any LS's (Richmond, VA prices are not too competitive). Any other "trick" fees?
Avoid any plastic protectants based on silicon. Silicon has been shown to accelerate plastic decay when exposed to UV. Use a good non-silicon based protectant with a UV block (I use Vinylex). Lexol makes a good cleaner & conditioner for leather. Leather, like skin, needs to be moisturized so I do this about twice a year on my leather. More on the sun exposed spots. Fender flares on my '99 seem to have such poor quality paint that I have given up trying to keep them looking good. Otherwise, a good coat of carnuba wax should be good.
Wow! It's been many, many months (a year, maybe) since I've been on this board. I guess I learned all about the Trooper then started reading about the 325i I bought! My '98 S has 44K miles and is as solid as a rock. It doesn't use a drop of oil and I'm still impressed with the acceleration it has for it's size and weight.
BUT..... I think my wife is at the end of her rope when it comes to the A/C . We're in Phoenix, AZ and it just doesn't cut the mustard when temps hit 105 to 115 degrees out. A trip to a mechanic confirmed it's putting out cold air (44 degrees), but just not enough volume. I'd just tough out the summer months if it weren't for our 15 month old daughter. We worry that she's not getting enough cool air in the back. I know the above mentioned temps are really hot, but our BMW and Mazda Protege do fine.
Any suggestions to boost the A/C output? Are the newer Troopers better?
My new Trooper is still less that 2 months old. My friend suggested that I go get some cans of Scotch Guard and spray the seats. Do they not come from the factory with Scotch Guard or similar? Anyone with any experience with Scotch Guard on their Trooper cloth seats? I am worried that Scotch Guard wil spot or stain the seats. Also just as much worried that they will get stained anyway from spilled coca-cola or from plain old sweat on those hot Florida days.
Hi, Just curious, is that the going price for the Trooper? it seems really low - either they're trying to get rid of them year end or you got a GREAT deal. Well probably both. How'd you do it? Congratulations on your new ride.
Comments
Pat.
1. The Hidden Hitch seems to be a favorite. Is there a good place to pick one up on-line? How difficult are they to install? For reference, I can tear a AC up inside and out but generally am lacking the Mr. Goodwrench gene.
2. I have a factory Yakima roof rack installed that, according to the "towers", is for skis and snow boards only. Since I live in Las Vegas and there's not much snow in the desert, this does me no good. Any idea how I can remove these towers and install a fully-functioning rack? Anyone want to buy a ski/snowboard rack?
3. When I hit aboout 70 MPH on the freeway, I get a lot of wind noise that sounds like it is coming from the rear of the driver's door frame. Normal?
4. I miss not having a center armrest - this is the only thing I don't like about the S trim. Is there any way to add one aftermarket?
5. What happens if I engage TOD but then exceed 60 MPH with TOD on? What happens if I hit the TOD button while going above 60 MPH (as I almost did this weekend out of habit when I meant to hit the cruise control)?
Thanks for any help. I never thought I wanted an evil SUV, but my Trooper has convinced me otherwise.
video clip
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
I'll have to check for the wind noise, but I regularly travel at 75mph no noticeable noise, except for my front bug shield that used to slap against the fenders. I'm working on replacing it with a lund unit.
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
As to the wind noise, I have none in a 1999.
As to the Yakima rack - two words Mount Charleston. But then again if you don't ski you don't ski.
An add-on armrest that works seems to be a mirage. Lots of people want one, including me, but no one reports back that they have installed one that they are happy with. I suspect the problem is that the seat has to be designed with a lot of internal support in order to accept an armrest. I doubt that the S model seats have the same internal structure as the Trooper seats with the armrests. Thus, we cannot simply add on an armrest.
Hidden hitch is very easy to install. I did it with my buddy, took about 1/2hr-1hr and I'm not mechnically inclined at all. I think it takes 3 bolts on one side and 2 on the other. A tie-down brack has to be removed(bolt removal) and a tow-hook also needs to be removed. I put the tow hook in the front so I have 2 in the front now.
-mike
-mike
Also, is there anything wrong with the Isuzu hitch? I was going to try to make a deal that includes the hitch.
Thanks,
Charles
Got a couple questions. I saw on a post by paisan about the RPM's at about 70-75 mph. Did I see 2500 rpm?? That seems quite low to me. At these speeds my 97' hits about 2900-3000. Is there that much gearing differences in the year models? What RPM's were you running at 115 mph?
Here's another FYI....I was reading an article about fuel filters and replacement frequency's in a Mechanics Journal. The article, written by a mechanic, stated that he had seen fuel pumps pulling 18 amps, on high milage cars. Said that after a fuel filter change the current draw went down to about 9 amps. This was causing premature failure of fuel pumps in his opinion. Well I decided to change my filter since I've got 55000 miles on the Trooper. Typically I wouldn't do this unless the vehicle hesitated under full acceleration, symptom of lack of fuel delivery. When I finally got the hoses off it, I found it to clean as a whistle! Probably a tribute to better refining plants these days. Anyway, it appears I may have some air entrained in the system now, the Trooper has started having surging spells all of a sudden. Just thought I'd post this for your consideration.
Happy Trooping!!
BSMART - At 75 MPH, it's at 2700 RPM for me. I have 49k on my stock tires and the circumference is smaller than new, I don't know how much of that is a factor.
The 3.5l probably helps (that's the main difference between the 97 and 98->01)
I went for the LS because:
Moonroof
Monotone Paint
Upgraded Seats
In-glass Antenna and Rear In-glass tinting
As for the hitch, if you can get it included go for it, but the Hidden hitch is truely hidden, which the stock OEM one is not hidden. But if you can get it for free go for it, if not the hidden hitch is about $125 from JC Whitney.
-mike
Cdanschwartz- Could you give me a heads up what dealer{s} on the island are selling it for that price.
Thanks,
Charlie
-mike
I've got the 58" round bar Yakima rack with Q-towers. These racks have clips which cinch them onto the underside top of the door frame - one set goes over the front doors and one bar goes over the rear doors. This has the rack mounted towards the front and not the back like the factory rack. With tons of attachments possible, you can load any gear. Takes about 2 mins. to install/remove. I normally drive without the racks to prevent wind noise & better garage clearence, although with mounts and stock ground clearance I can still fit under 6' 5". I highly recommend this although it is extremely expensive.
Bike rack: Thule swing arm space station module. I had the cheaper four post hitch, but after the pin worked loose and it dropped damaging four bikes, I went with the mac-daddy. This rack holds four bikes and has a double hinged "box" which allows the rack to pull away from the vehicle with bikes mounted to provide access to open the rear doors. I keep this permanently mounted since it locks to my hitch. Also expensive but you get what you pay for.
Charles, if you have a trade, I'll send you to one place. If not, I'll send you to another.
Charlie
-mike
-mike
I have a 2WD 2000 Trooper LTD, and live in Nashville. We get 5-10 snow/ice days here per year, and last winter I drove in it several times. I found the Troop handled better than my wife's 98 Nissan Maxima, which is a front wheel drive.
The WINTER setting does a good job getting you started without too much wheel spin. ABS helps you stop on top of packed snow. Coming out of our neighborhood, which is a left turn coming up a moderate hill onto another hill, the back end would kick out slightly, but it was controllable by steering into the skid. I think the TIRES help a lot, the stock bridgstones are knobby and just right for snow pack.
On ICE, all bets are off. I played around in some ice patches, but there is just nothing you can do there.
I think Ohio maintains their roads much better than Tennessee, and you'll find the 2WD does a good job there. You should hang onto it through a winter and see how it does before making a costly change. The value of your car has already dropped, so rather than realize that loss by selling, I would keep it through a winter up there, and see if it meets your needs.
Good luck.
Andy
-mike
Thanks,
Charlie
http://www.isuzudealers.com/
-mike
And speaking of Bells and Whistles, I am still waffling on selling my '99 Trooper LTD, powered heated leather seats, powered heated mirrors, moonroof, 6 CD changer, trailer hitch, the works. 34.5k miles, Mobil 1 synthetic, never smoked in, never wrecked, never off road. I now have a good commuter car to replace it, but come to think of it, they do look nice together. I will consider any rational offer. Thanks.
-Ken
(Northern Virginia location)
ken_salen@hotmail.com
I'll be passing through there tonight in the am.
-mike
2004 Rodeo (SUV)
Isuzu says the next Rodeo will NOT be a rebadged next-generation Chevy TrailBlazer off the GMT360 platform. Rather, the company indicates it will go with its own design, retaining body-on-frame truck construction and a range of four- and six-cylinder engines.
Maybe the Trooper's safe from GM?
-mike
Jim
I'm up to 1600 miles on my new 2001 Trooper S. Isn't it better to go ahead and change out the first oil now than wait for the 3000 mile mark? Isn't it best to get those nasty break-in engine shavings out of the engine? Or is that a myth?
Also, is the Mobil 1 worth the investment? The guy who bought my Millenia said that synthetic oil has the downside that it never gets dirty, and therefore, he reasoned that all that black stuff stays in your engine rather than coming out when you change your oil. I always thought that the oil turns black or dark because it was breaking down.
I think that I'll try to keep this truck for a long time. I plan on towing a pop-up camper a few times per year and my wife will use it for daily shopping and driving the kids.
I think the Isuzu is a good value given the utility and the warranty. I'll keep you posted on how it holds up.
Second, the inside of your engine will be much cleaner with synthetic, because synthetic effectively doesn't break down. With dino oil, the sludge that builds up in an engine is due to breakdown of the molecule chains, and the burn-off of the lighter fractions. Dino oil is a hodgepodge of molecule sizes, while synthetic molecules are basically uniform size. Another effect of lighter fraction burn off is that the viscosity of dino oil will thicken over time, while synthetic will remain the same indefinitely.
I could go on, but tired of typing...let me know if you have any more questions. You can also read back on this forum...this topic has been discussed periodically before.
I think with today's manufacturing standards there is little likelihood that the engine has much in the way of shavings. Nor does it come with breakin oil that must be changed very early on. That being said, for very few extra bucks why not do the first oil change early just in case? FWIW I did mine early and found no metal bits on the magnetic drain plug.
As for Mobil 1, many people swear by it. However many of them claim that you should not use Mobil 1 for the first several changes. As to the "logic" that Mobil 1 is bad because your oil stays clean longer, how absurd. If your friend really believes that draining out really dirty oil is the way to go just tell him to do 50,000 miles oil changes.
Happy Trooping!!
I've got a related question or two about other things. 1st for those of you with leather interiors, what are you using on the leather to keep it soft and supple? And for those of you with the colored plastic flares on the wheel wells of your Troopers, what are you using on them and your bumper covers, to clean them after a good handwashing?
Thanks,
Charles
BUT..... I think my wife is at the end of her rope when it comes to the A/C . We're in Phoenix, AZ and it just doesn't cut the mustard when temps hit 105 to 115 degrees out. A trip to a mechanic confirmed it's putting out cold air (44 degrees), but just not enough volume. I'd just tough out the summer months if it weren't for our 15 month old daughter. We worry that she's not getting enough cool air in the back. I know the above mentioned temps are really hot, but our BMW and Mazda Protege do fine.
Any suggestions to boost the A/C output? Are the newer Troopers better?
Thanks!
Lee
Just curious, is that the going price for the Trooper? it seems really low - either they're trying to get rid of them year end or you got a GREAT deal. Well probably both. How'd you do it?
Congratulations on your new ride.