There are '98s selling around 16k in some spots. Depends on the demand but 16k for a '98 with 30,000 isn't bad when you consider 2000s were going at 24k. If your area demands that they sell at 14-15k then I would hold onto my '98 unless you want to take a beating. You have a great vehicle.
I've been with my Trooper for a little over a year ('99 Performance Pkg, 21,000 mi). I've driven it to Snow in San Bernadino Mountains (So. Calif) to Mojave and Borrego desert, and I'm happy to report that I haven't had any problems with it so far.
Recently, I've come across a couple of Japanese Trooper ("Bighorn" there) sites that might be interesting to some of you.
See Trooper and other Isuzu vehicles in action. You can view pictures by clicking headers in yellow color (I think that's how it appears in English-language system).
Another site showing Isuzu vehicles owned by members. Intersting to see different versions/accesories available there. See "Oweners Vehicle Photo" section.
I have a 2001 Trooper LS 2wd and have just installed a trailer hitch. I dug around in the tire jack well and found the connector for the trailer lights etc. Do I have to go to the dealer to find the rest of the harness that will run to the hitch area and eventually to the trailer.....any aftermarket? Is this something I can get at the local autoparts store? Thanks in advance for your help.
1) lay down under neath the jack storage area, you will see a rubber grommet against the side wall of the truck from underneath.
2) Pull that grommet out, and bam! there will be a plug in connector there.
You can buy the other piece (flat connector + wire through a grommet and connector for the part that's on the truck) from Drawtite.com or Hiddenhitch.com See my webpage below for the exact places I got the wiring harness from. I believe it was $25 and a 5 minute install. No spilcing required.
My Check Engine light is on, and I am getting some weird operation that tells me something is going on. Cold start and general driveability seems fine, but if I stop somewhere (say, at the store), and then start the engine while still warm, it will surge from about 0 to 1,000 rpm or so. Sometimes it kills when it drops to zero. The surges occur about every second or two. If I put in gear and go, then it seems fine until the next warm start.
Mike, you mentioned that the ECU could be reset. How? I'd like to know since my erstwhile Isuzu dealer is booked for the next week and a half.
I'll bet that you either need the ECU re-set or you have a bad O2 sensor.
Basically what is happening is that the ECU is searching for the proper RPMs and Fuel mixture. It is probably causint eing the truck to run extremely rich and that's why it is choking out at idle. Here is the method for re-setting the ECU. Tonight when you get home, disconnect the battery for 12+ hours (over night) and re-connect it in the morning. This will effectively cold re-set the ECU. Normally what happens is if you just diconnect the battery, the capacitors in the ECU hold a charge for a # of hours so that just disconnecting the battery doesn't re-set the ECU fully. I've successfully fixed the CE light and similar problems on various cars. I had a similar surging problem on my Rodeo '97 which was fixed through this method.
Thanks Mike. I'm going to give that a try. If the light returns, then I will know it needs service, as opposed to a phantom ECU glitch that just needed a re-set. I'd really like to avoid a trip to the dealer if it isn't necessary.
Was out of town 120 miles from home when this happend. Started Trooper ('99 w/19,800 miles)to warm-up a very bad snow storm moved in over night. Pushed button for 4-wheel Auto and Auto light is just flashing and then a red check light comes on under the TOD section? Shifted car to neutral moved to 4-wheel low and all the wheel indicator lights are fully lit but just flashing when the same red check light comes on? Shifted back to 4-high now in 2-wheel only. Had to get going storm getting bad. Started off max. speed only 30mph. Occasionally pushing 4-wheel Auto no luck. One hour of driving pushed button felt Auto engage and auto light not flashing. Stayed engaged for the rest of the ride home (2 hours). Took Trooper into dealer they found moisture in shift case, they checked records and found a 15k maintenance service hadn't been done, suggested to do the 15k changing all 4-wheel fluids(does this sound legit?). It's been 2 weeks with many snow storms and bad weather, and problem hasn't reaccured! Any thoughts or similar problems from any one? Has anyone noticed on cold starts a high pitch squealing type of noise in engine area that goes away after about 10 minutes? I have taken the Trooper into the dealer with this problem and first time diagnosed with a bad fan/clutch assembly this was replaced but problem continues my Trooper is parked outside and not in a garage! Any help or thoughts appreciated! Thank you.
I had the 15K service done on my 1999. I have not had your problem. When you had 4 Low engaged, you still did not have 4wd engaged? I believe the system uses an air driven actuator to engage the TOD and lock the front hubs? Maybe the Air system was hosed (no pun intended)? I have noticed a few bugs when the temp is low, mostly because the truck is so quiet most of the time, every rattle jumps out at me like it might be a problem.
2 weeks ago, upstate NY i drove around in about 1-2 feet of snow on saturday. Had it in 4wd TOD, 4wd Lo, etc. No problems. 24 hrs later drove 30 miles and all of a sudden the TOD light and check engine cam on, so I pulled over, and did what you did (2wd, 4wd TOD, 4wd Lo) no effect. Turned off car, turned back on, BAM! problem gone. Haven't had a problem since. My local dealer pulled the code a week after that and said it was "Error 27" "Moisture in TOD unit had triggered the check light" I do have a whine in TOD, but I think it is un-related to the check light coming on. Do you know or can you find out what the error code # was? I went upstate NY this past weekend again, and tried to drive through as much snow as possible to try to repeat the problem but couldn't.
Someone with a Vehicross had a similar problem on the Vmag board (they have TOD and 3.5l engine also on the Vehicross) having to do with snow/ice setting off the TOD check light. His didn't go off after the re-start though.
A while ago I went through the recommended change schedules very carefully, and nowhere is there listed a recommended change of TOD fluid! Just says to check level. Schedule does say to change diff fluid (front and rear) at 15K, but not TOD.
On my '97 rodeo I remember now when it did come on and I reset it, it took 3-4 "heat up and cool down" periods befor it would go off. I think that re-sets the O2 sensor or something.
My dealer said the 15K serice is only visual, and that the major service is at 30K
I have been in 10" of snow and deep water and not had this problem? It sounds legitimate though, moisture in a transmission is bad. We are expecting (I am hoping) for a big snow storm this weekend, and I will post if I get any similar results.
They only changed the transmission and differential fluids at 15K. As well as other checks. The back of my Trooper manual has a laundry list of items to be done. I did a lot of sand driving this last summer and hit a few mud holes, so I did the 15K maintenance to make sure there was nothing inside the fluids that would cause trouble. I have read that if you get any vehicle in water above the hubs/axles/differentials you should change the fluid afterwards. I try to be aware of this while off-roading. Everyday drivers could do major damage to their vehicles by going through 2' of snow and then commuting 30 miles to work for extended periods.
It concerns me that deep snow would get moisture in the TOD System? What about going through deep water. Maybe it is just the actuator and not the transfer case? gears and moisture do not mix.
My Trooper has a very specific noise like a gust of wind under the car(front, towards the right of center) under very specific conditions: in normal (not TOD) drive mode, ONLY between 34 - 39 mph, and ONLY when going uphill. I stopped by my dealer to ask about it and he says he's seen this probem with other 2000 Troopers. It is the transmission - it is downshifting when it's not supposed to, and it does require fixing which is luckily covered under the warranty! The whoosh I'm hearing is the engine racing, he thinks. BTW, I also have the annoying rattle which sounds like it is coming from the odometer area, and happens when weather conditions are cold.
87 trooper, runs great always, but just recently it has started doing the strangest thing... I start it up in the morning, let it warm up, and then take off. I drive maybe a 1/4 mile though sometimes only 50 feet and I hear a WHIRRING sound like something spinning and clicking real fast, I slow down and the clicking turns to a thummping and the truck feels like its got a flat in the front (The origin of the noise is the front, possibly a little more to the passenger side. I pull to a halt, the sound and the bumpity bump stops...I continue on fine..any ideas? Thanks...
I guess that's the "grade logic" in action...of all the things that could've used an upgrade between 99 and 2000, the AT programming is the last. I have been very impressed with my 99s tranny shifting. Shifts when it should, and doesn't downshift when it shouldn't, or hunt for gears like many other brands. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Did your dealer explain why they changed your AT fluid at 15K? Even on the "Severe Conditions" maintenance schedule it isn't recommended until 20K, and on the normal use schedule they don't recommend a change at all. Maybe this just a "dealer profit enhancement" maintenance schedule?
Just got back from a holiday road trip. Xmas day there was a "knocking" sound from what sounded like the passenger side of the engine. Oil level was fine. Shut off the engine while my brother went to get a stethoscope, and upon restarting the noise was gone, it was quiet. Drove back (600 miles) and now the darn thing won't stop making the noise.
They did not. I am pretty sure it is listed in the manual at 15K? I will check tonight. The whole service was $224. Not bad, considering my Nissan's 15K service was $450 and they only "checked" everything.
I was a little annoyed that they missed things like checking the tire pressure after rotating. The mechanic even told me he checked it. I had the fronts set to 32 and the rear at 37 psi. Maybe he thought a 5 psi difference wasn't a big deal.
My name is Chris and I am so far the happy new owner of 2 LS troopers. Bought one for me and one for my dad for Christmas. Looking at what everyone said they paid I am very happy with the prices paid. Have spent alot of time looking for aftermarket accessories. This site has been alot of help in that regard. Just became a distributer for Katzkin leather seats,so if you need a set I will without a doubt beat any price on the net. I am thinking about setting up a site dedicated to aftermarket parts for troopers only. If anyone has any ideas or thoughts they would be appreciated.
Both vehicles had a vibrating driver side mirror and both are going to be replaced. May or may not solve the problem. I have seen posts about a rattle in the dash(particularly when cold)and have this problem on one vehicle. The dealer is going to start tearing the dash apart to try and find the rattle. If anyone has had this problem and their dealer has corrected it I would appreciate some info. Maybe even your shops name and number so my shop can call them.Would like as little dismanteling of my dash as posible.
Sorry for the long message.I look follward to making some Trooper friends and hope everyone has continued success with thier Troopers.
Chris Miller
ChrisMiller007@aol.com
P.S. sorry for any gramatical errors, not used to the spell checker
I have a 2000 LS 2wd. Had the same rattle. Its not the dash or inside. The fuel line under the hood rattles agains the fire wall when cold. Had to leave the vehicle over nite for the dealer to hear it, as it would warm up on the drive there. The dealer is Andy Jones Isuzu in North Augusta SC. Let me know and I'll give you more info.
Had the mirror replaced and its the same. Drove other new trooper, same. I think its the same for all 2000's. The dealer said the mirror snaps into the main part witha plastic piece, so not much support there.
Checked my receipt no mention of code, called dealer they don't remember, I recall it was either 26 or 56. I am still pushing dealer to get more inform. regarding code #, and where this moisture could have come from. I do not drive off-road, highway/city driving only. The only water it may see is driving thru a puddle. No rivers, creeks, streams...ect. When they called me at work to explain what they found, they told me they spoke to Isuzu Service and they said to replace the Transfer Case and Frnt. Axle fluids. I haven't call Isuzu yet.
I'm going in on Jan 15th to my dealer to try to find out what's going on with my TOD. I'll be posting my findings over in the isuzu owner's area in the maintenance and repair sections as I know more.
Thanks for the info.I would bet that will prove to be the problem.I was really not wanting to have the dash torn apart so I hope it is.
Steve,
Thanks for your input.I was really thinking of a web site devoted to the Trooper that one could actually order most of their parts from.I don't know if their would be enough interest to make it worthwhile. That is why I was hoping to get some thoughts.
I came to realize I posted my greeting in the wrong forum so I will probably post one in the right place too.
A/C – I think the A/C on my previous Troop, a ’96, was stronger/colder than on our current ’98. Both Troopers had/have dark tint on the side windows in the back seat and cargo areas.
The HVAC controls on both these Troopers are the same; I don't know if the mechanicals are too.
I can't be sure if the '96 had any custom mods re: the A/C system, but I doubt it. Overall, it just seemed to blow colder, cool the cabin quicker, and keep it cool more easily. However, I still find the '98 does an adequate job vs. 95 degree temps. Things usually stay cool with Recirculate selected and the fan on 2, sometimes 3.
It seems that perhaps the automatic climate control on the 2000-2001 Troopers is not as powerful as on the previous model years.
I just bought a 2000 LS Trooper 2WD and love it. I have tried three times to register it on the Isuzu web site and it won't go through. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone have any suggestions. I can't find a e-mail address to contact Isuzu directly. Thanks!
I have a 2000 LS 2WD. Took it to Boone NC this weekend to do some skiing. My brother-in-law had his 4wd Toyota Tacoma. The Trooper went every place his truck went. We drove up some steep snow covered hills, his truck stopped and just spun the rear tires till he put in 4WD. The Troopers Slip diff worked great, it spun a bit but kept on going up. Wish I had a 4WD, but this Trooper had no problems in snow. Could of went into deeper snow if the tires were better suited. So, if you can get a 4WD great, but a 2WD Trooper is just as good.
I'm looking to purchase roof racks for my 2000 trooper. Bought my trooper in Oct. and love it, but it's missing a roof rack. I need it to haul my boys surf boards to and from the beach. Also any one know where to purchase a third row seat? What about running boards like the ones Isuzu sells only for less. Thanks for your help!
You might want to check the Owner's area and re-post your message there, in the aftermarket section. I know we've discussed the 3rd row of seats there. And I'm sure you aren't the only one who needs a roof rack.
I'd just like to say that I enjoy having several different forums in which to discuss Troopers/Rodeos/etc. over in the Isuzu Owners Club portion of Edmund's Town Hall. Having the different types of discussions separated is a good thing, not a bad thing. Yes, it's convenient to have a single board to refer to, but there can be many discussions going on at once and you often wade through posts you'd rather not read. The Owners Club helps to minimize that problem.
I encourage everybody to post their comments in the appropriate Owners Club! Thanks to all who worked hard to make it happen.
Hey Folks I have a 98 Trooper and I am looking to beef up the suspension for added stability for highway traveling. The stock suspension is weak at best with severe nose diving when breaking and porpoising over uneven tracks of the freeway and excessive leaning when cornering(even at low speeds). The stock suspension is insufficient, it destroyed a set of tires(severe cupping). Any spring/shock combo's available would be appreciated. I am definately not looking for off road upgrades. But any or all suggestions would be helpful.
We've had some discussions of upgrades over in the owner's area. See My links below (one to my Trooper page and one to the Owner's area) If you shoot out your question over there, I'm sure there will be significant responses on suspension. My personal plan is to go with the following upgrades:
Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks (5 position adjustable) OME (Old Man Emu) rear Coil springs Calmini Front and Rear upgraded swaybars and bushings.
I've given detailed reports on this before, but this is what I've done to my '99 Trooper suspension:
Replaced all 4 shocks with Edelbrock IAS; Replaced rear coils with Old Man Emu coils; Replaced front torsion bars with thicker Sway-A-Way torsion bars.
The vehicle now has a firm, controlled, yet forgiving ride - many times better than original. I have very little roll, really not noticeable, and virtually no nose dip now. Hard emergency stops only produce about 3/4" of nose dip at most; normal stops the nose barely dips at all. I can now fill the cargo area up with gear, say a few hundred pounds and the vehicle rides perfect and level due to the progressive design of the OME coils.
I too feel the stock Trooper suspension (at least the '99 I'm familiar with) is completely unacceptable and very unsafe during severe/emergency maneuvers. It is the only major critique I have of the vehicle, but fortunately one that can be easily fixed.
I recommend EVERYONE replace at least the 4 shocks; if only replacing the shocks and since the rear coils are so weak, I recommend either a strong rear shock or an adjustable one like the Rancho 9000 mentioned above to compensate for the stock rear coils.
There is a 3rd row of seats available from a 3rd party. Check out the Isuzu owner's area on edmunds, we've had discussions over there and there are links there to the 3rd party company that sells 3rd row of seats for about $400-$800 depending on the quality of the fabric you want.
Yesterday we traded our '98 Trooper on a new '01 Ford Expedition. Worked with four Ford dealers before we got more than $12.5-13.5 as trade-in offers. Boy, THAT sucked! Finally got $14.1 for it. About half what we paid for it, with only 28K miles. In our estimation, the Trooper's slipping values are not offset by its reliability.
14.1k is not bad if that's off the price after dickering them down below retail (i.e. if your talking close to dealer cost on the Ford). If its off the list price, which is what dealers normally try to do, then its low.
Considering a 01 TROPPER s w/AIR LIST $29,690,SALE $25,690, Not happy with the past history of this auto, Has there been any improvements to date? Thanks
I have been thinking about doing the rear springs, sway bars and shocks. I don't want to lift the vehicle however. How much did this upgrade lift the truck, and what do you think caused the most lift?
I am also concerned about adversely effecting the wheel travel of the truck, the extremely soft suspension allows the truck to have 9" of wheel travel, what did you find or think?
If you're disappointed about the Trooper's past history, you must be talking about the overblown negative media coverage of the Trooper caused by Consumer Reports' claims that the Trooper rolls over too easily. I personally don't think the Trooper is any more rollover-prone than other SUVs. The 92 and newer Troopers are well-built and reliable. The 2001 Trooper is a tremendous value for 23-29k. You can't do better for the money, in my opinion.
The OME replacement coils I installed will lift the rear about 1", as advertised. To compensate in front you level it out by cranking the front torsion bars so the front end lifts up.
I actually set my front end such that it is slightly nose down with no load in the rear. With a normal load in the rear (one or two people, plus cargo in back) everything levels out just fine, and then the rear end will not sag much further in spite of additional weight since the OME springs are a progressive design (softer at first part of the travel, then they firm up).
These are excellent coil springs. The extra height is in no way a hindrance. I've been very happy with my entire setup as I described earlier, and would do it all again the same way except probably use the OME shocks instead of the Edelbrock. You can get the OME shocks in two flavors - heavy duty off road oriented, or softer on road use.
I generally agree with the responses above. My 2 cents:
Resale: Yes, I believe the Trooper has a slightly poor resale performance, mostly the result of the negative (incorrect) publicity about the rollover tests, and also from addtional negatives such as the rear bumper tests last Fall. This along with higher fuel prices and huge new car inventories that are hurting all SUV resales. The bottom line is to be aware of it going in, and be sure you want to drive the vehicle for at least 4-5 years. On the flip side, I believe it is these very factors which hurt new sales, and in turn make the vehicle an outstanding purchase for those of us willing to use our thinking caps in an objective manner. Just be sure to get the max discount possible when buying a new Trooper. I received about $5300 off sticker on mine; but I've seen many people since then get 6-7k off including very recently.
Past History: I have about 34k on my '99 and so far not a single problem. The transmission has an excellent reputation (see previous detailed posts on this subject), the TOD full-time 4wd system works like a champ, the vehicle gets from 16-19mpg on the interstate in my experience, and the engine is a follow-up effort that was tested extensively by Isuzu, one of the biggest truck (and truck engine) manufacturers in the world. I also have a friend with a '92 model with over 100,000 miles on it - he just recently had the starter rebuilt for like $20 - the only "problem" encountered so far, and I have an in-law with a '94 who has also had great service on his. Also, this vehicle is used in many places around the world under extremely brutal conditions and has proven itself.
I have a 2001 LS 2WD and discovered a problem this weekend. The truck has run good with no trips to the dealer in it first 2000 miles. Anyway, I was on the interstate for the first time and encountered a pronounced vibration above 70mph. Truck runs smooth around town but the aforementioned scenario was pretty bad and only occur a the higher interstate speeds. My guess is that this could only be tire related...any thoughts?
Comments
Recently, I've come across a couple of Japanese Trooper ("Bighorn" there) sites that might be interesting to some of you.
See Trooper and other Isuzu vehicles in action. You can view pictures by clicking headers in yellow color (I think that's how it appears in English-language system).
http://www.canal.ne.jp/~hiroshi/kurokan.htm
Another site showing Isuzu vehicles owned by members. Intersting to see different versions/accesories available there. See "Oweners Vehicle Photo" section.
http://comminet.or.jp/people/big-horn/
...Eiji...
1) lay down under neath the jack storage area, you will see a rubber grommet against the side wall of the truck from underneath.
2) Pull that grommet out, and bam! there will be a plug in connector there.
You can buy the other piece (flat connector + wire through a grommet and connector for the part that's on the truck) from Drawtite.com or Hiddenhitch.com See my webpage below for the exact places I got the wiring harness from. I believe it was $25 and a 5 minute install. No spilcing required.
-mike
http://www.iace.com/ia/trooper
Mike, you mentioned that the ECU could be reset. How? I'd like to know since my erstwhile Isuzu dealer is booked for the next week and a half.
Basically what is happening is that the ECU is searching for the proper RPMs and Fuel mixture. It is probably causint eing the truck to run extremely rich and that's why it is choking out at idle. Here is the method for re-setting the ECU. Tonight when you get home, disconnect the battery for 12+ hours (over night) and re-connect it in the morning. This will effectively cold re-set the ECU. Normally what happens is if you just diconnect the battery, the capacitors in the ECU hold a charge for a # of hours so that just disconnecting the battery doesn't re-set the ECU fully. I've successfully fixed the CE light and similar problems on various cars. I had a similar surging problem on my Rodeo '97 which was fixed through this method.
-mike
http://www.iace.com/ia/trooper
Has anyone noticed on cold starts a high pitch squealing type of noise in engine area that goes away after about 10 minutes? I have taken the Trooper into the dealer with this problem and first time diagnosed with a bad fan/clutch assembly this was replaced but problem continues my Trooper is parked outside and not in a garage! Any help or thoughts appreciated! Thank you.
2 weeks ago, upstate NY i drove around in about 1-2 feet of snow on saturday. Had it in 4wd TOD, 4wd Lo, etc. No problems. 24 hrs later drove 30 miles and all of a sudden the TOD light and check engine cam on, so I pulled over, and did what you did (2wd, 4wd TOD, 4wd Lo) no effect. Turned off car, turned back on, BAM! problem gone. Haven't had a problem since. My local dealer pulled the code a week after that and said it was "Error 27" "Moisture in TOD unit had triggered the check light" I do have a whine in TOD, but I think it is un-related to the check light coming on. Do you know or can you find out what the error code # was? I went upstate NY this past weekend again, and tried to drive through as much snow as possible to try to repeat the problem but couldn't.
Someone with a Vehicross had a similar problem on the Vmag board (they have TOD and 3.5l engine also on the Vehicross) having to do with snow/ice setting off the TOD check light. His didn't go off after the re-start though.
-mike
My dealer said the 15K serice is only visual, and that the major service is at 30K
-mike
They only changed the transmission and differential fluids at 15K. As well as other checks. The back of my Trooper manual has a laundry list of items to be done. I did a lot of sand driving this last summer and hit a few mud holes, so I did the 15K maintenance to make sure there was nothing inside the fluids that would cause trouble. I have read that if you get any vehicle in water above the hubs/axles/differentials you should change the fluid afterwards. I try to be aware of this while off-roading. Everyday drivers could do major damage to their vehicles by going through 2' of snow and then commuting 30 miles to work for extended periods.
It concerns me that deep snow would get moisture in the TOD System? What about going through deep water. Maybe it is just the actuator and not the transfer case? gears and moisture do not mix.
-mike
Link here:
/direct/view/.eea1204
I start it up in the morning, let it warm up, and then take off. I drive maybe a 1/4 mile though sometimes only 50 feet and I hear a WHIRRING sound like something spinning and clicking real fast, I slow down and the clicking turns to a thummping and the truck feels like its got a flat in the front (The origin of the noise is the front, possibly a little more to the passenger side. I pull to a halt, the sound and the bumpity bump stops...I continue on fine..any ideas? Thanks...
Any ideas??
I was a little annoyed that they missed things like checking the tire pressure after rotating. The mechanic even told me he checked it. I had the fronts set to 32 and the rear at 37 psi. Maybe he thought a 5 psi difference wasn't a big deal.
My name is Chris and I am so far the happy new owner of 2 LS troopers. Bought one for me and one for my dad for Christmas. Looking at what everyone said they paid I am very happy with the prices paid. Have spent alot of time looking for aftermarket accessories. This site has been alot of help in that regard. Just became a distributer for Katzkin leather seats,so if you need a set I will without a doubt beat any price on the net.
I am thinking about setting up a site dedicated to aftermarket parts for troopers only. If anyone has any ideas or thoughts they would be appreciated.
Both vehicles had a vibrating driver side mirror and both are going to be replaced. May or may not solve the problem. I have seen posts about a rattle in the dash(particularly when cold)and have this problem on one vehicle. The dealer is going to start tearing the dash apart to try and find the rattle. If anyone has had this problem and their dealer has corrected it I would appreciate some info. Maybe even your shops name and number so my shop can call them.Would like as little dismanteling of my dash as posible.
Sorry for the long message.I look follward to making some Trooper friends and hope everyone has continued success with thier Troopers.
Chris Miller
ChrisMiller007@aol.com
P.S. sorry for any gramatical errors, not used to the spell checker
There is already an aftermarket discussion at the new Isuzu Owners Club here at Edmunds, or where you referring to a website?
Steve
I have a 2000 LS 2wd. Had the same rattle. Its not the dash or inside. The fuel line under the hood rattles agains the fire wall when cold. Had to leave the vehicle over nite for the dealer to hear it, as it would warm up on the drive there. The dealer is Andy Jones Isuzu in North Augusta SC. Let me know and I'll give you more info.
Had the mirror replaced and its the same. Drove other new trooper, same. I think its the same for all 2000's. The dealer said the mirror snaps into the main part witha plastic piece, so not much support there.
Marcin
-mike
Isuzu Forum Spokesman
Edmunds Isuzu Forum
IA Trooper Homepage
Thanks for the info.I would bet that will prove to be the problem.I was really not wanting to have the dash torn apart so I hope it is.
Steve,
Thanks for your input.I was really thinking of a web site devoted to the Trooper that one could actually order most of their parts from.I don't know if their would be enough interest to make it worthwhile. That is why I was hoping to get some thoughts.
I came to realize I posted my greeting in the wrong forum so I will probably post one in the right place too.
Thanks again,
Chris
The HVAC controls on both these Troopers are the same; I don't know if the mechanicals are too.
I can't be sure if the '96 had any custom mods re: the A/C system, but I doubt it. Overall, it just seemed to blow colder, cool the cabin quicker, and keep it cool more easily. However, I still find the '98 does an adequate job vs. 95 degree temps. Things usually stay cool with Recirculate selected and the fan on 2, sometimes 3.
It seems that perhaps the automatic climate control on the 2000-2001 Troopers is not as powerful as on the previous model years.
Thanks!
-mike
Isuzu Forum Spokesman
Edmunds Isuzu Forum
IA Trooper Homepage
What about running boards like the ones Isuzu sells only for less. Thanks for your help!
-mike
Isuzu Forum Spokesman
Edmunds Isuzu Forum
IA Trooper Homepage
I encourage everybody to post their comments in the appropriate Owners Club! Thanks to all who worked hard to make it happen.
Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks (5 position adjustable)
OME (Old Man Emu) rear Coil springs
Calmini Front and Rear upgraded swaybars and bushings.
-mike
http://www.iace.com/ia/trooper
/direct/view/.eea11fe
Replaced all 4 shocks with Edelbrock IAS;
Replaced rear coils with Old Man Emu coils;
Replaced front torsion bars with thicker Sway-A-Way torsion bars.
The vehicle now has a firm, controlled, yet forgiving ride - many times better than original. I have very little roll, really not noticeable, and virtually no nose dip now. Hard emergency stops only produce about 3/4" of nose dip at most; normal stops the nose barely dips at all. I can now fill the cargo area up with gear, say a few hundred pounds and the vehicle rides perfect and level due to the progressive design of the OME coils.
I too feel the stock Trooper suspension (at least the '99 I'm familiar with) is completely unacceptable and very unsafe during severe/emergency maneuvers. It is the only major critique I have of the vehicle, but fortunately one that can be easily fixed.
I recommend EVERYONE replace at least the 4 shocks; if only replacing the shocks and since the rear coils are so weak, I recommend either a strong rear shock or an adjustable one like the Rancho 9000 mentioned above to compensate for the stock rear coils.
Good luck on your decision!
-Sahara111
-mike
Yesterday we traded our '98 Trooper on a new '01 Ford Expedition. Worked with four Ford dealers before we got more than $12.5-13.5 as trade-in offers. Boy, THAT sucked! Finally got $14.1 for it. About half what we paid for it, with only 28K miles. In our estimation, the Trooper's slipping values are not offset by its reliability.
May you all live long and prosper! Adios!
Thanks
All of the trucks come with power everything and A/C
-mike
PS: 2000 Trooper LS w/moonroof, 15K miles no major problems.
I am also concerned about adversely effecting the wheel travel of the truck, the extremely soft suspension allows the truck to have 9" of wheel travel, what did you find or think?
Thanks for you input.
I actually set my front end such that it is slightly nose down with no load in the rear. With a normal load in the rear (one or two people, plus cargo in back) everything levels out just fine, and then the rear end will not sag much further in spite of additional weight since the OME springs are a progressive design (softer at first part of the travel, then they firm up).
These are excellent coil springs. The extra height is in no way a hindrance. I've been very happy with my entire setup as I described earlier, and would do it all again the same way except probably use the OME shocks instead of the Edelbrock. You can get the OME shocks in two flavors - heavy duty off road oriented, or softer on road use.
Resale: Yes, I believe the Trooper has a slightly poor resale performance, mostly the result of the negative (incorrect) publicity about the rollover tests, and also from addtional negatives such as the rear bumper tests last Fall. This along with higher fuel prices and huge new car inventories that are hurting all SUV resales. The bottom line is to be aware of it going in, and be sure you want to drive the vehicle for at least 4-5 years. On the flip side, I believe it is these very factors which hurt new sales, and in turn make the vehicle an outstanding purchase for those of us willing to use our thinking caps in an objective manner. Just be sure to get the max discount possible when buying a new Trooper. I received about $5300 off sticker on mine; but I've seen many people since then get 6-7k off including very recently.
Past History: I have about 34k on my '99 and so far not a single problem. The transmission has an excellent reputation (see previous detailed posts on this subject), the TOD full-time 4wd system works like a champ, the vehicle gets from 16-19mpg on the interstate in my experience, and the engine is a follow-up effort that was tested extensively by Isuzu, one of the biggest truck (and truck engine) manufacturers in the world. I also have a friend with a '92 model with over 100,000 miles on it - he just recently had the starter rebuilt for like $20 - the only "problem" encountered so far, and I have an in-law with a '94 who has also had great service on his. Also, this vehicle is used in many places around the world under extremely brutal conditions and has proven itself.