I've had to stop there, although their prices aren't that bad compared to the rest of NYC prices, they are all inflated. I try to fill up in NJ whenever possible.
You 2K has over 50K already? Damn! I only have 35K on my 2K.
we bought it with 8.9K miles after checking Carfax (not even hint of a problem)
the CEL came on AFTER overheating/stalling/towing to dealer/engine head replacement due to 2 cylinders with 'casting defect'.
After that, the CEL came on first time while we were on Christmas vacation in NW Wisconsin. Had it TOWED to nearest Minnesota dealer (we did not know how serious it was and did not want to cause damage). They found 'random cylinder misfire', but OK'd to drive it back home (400mi) to have it checked by 'our' dealer.
'Our' dealer said that thay could not see the problem because it is 'self-correcting'. Claimed to have re-set the computer. It came back on flashing on the 2nd day or so after trip to dealer.
Thi CEL appears/disappears intermittently from Christmas until last week. Finally, when it came on and stayed, my husband drove it to the dealer where it currently is.
Seems like multiple problems. A steady CEL light indicates a problem such as a mis-fire, bad catalytic converter, EGR Valve, O2 sensor or 100s of other emissions sensors. A flashing one is a different story all together and indicates an engine problem. I'd bring it to a different dealer as your dealer doesn't seem very competant. Also Carfax is often 6+ months behind when you run the report. I bought a used car and 6 months later re-ran the carfax and it came up with not passing emissions.
ilit, thanks for the links. Who woulda thunk the government actually publishes helpful info like that? Not me.
As for the API link, I searched on "fuel octane" and found the article entitled "Octane: Making the Right Choice at the Pump." Your link didn't quite work. I see that Edmunds does not allow a string longer than 115 characters; that must be why you separated the link into 2 strings?
Took the Trooper to a local fluid swap place and they told me that they would prefer not to swap the fluid on the Trooper because they were not cometant that they would do it correctly. They were unsure about it being a "sealed transmission" and did not want to screw it up. I was most greatful for their honesty. They will be getting business from me with my other cars in the future. Now, I do all of my own maintanence myself but who has the tools to do a tranny flush and a pan drop on the tranny only removes a small amount of the actuall oil.
So, I dropped the Trooper off at the local Dealer today for that ECU update that has been talked about on here and asked about the tranny flush. By the way, the service guy did not seem to understand what in the hell I was talking about when I said ECU update. Sort of like looking into a cow's eyes. Know what I mean. I hoped that the mechanic would know about all of this. Anyway, I asked about the Tranny flush and he said that it would be $162 w/o tax. I asked him what that involved and he said that it was a pandrop. I was unimpressed. I would like to get a full fluid swap for my Trooper. Any suggestions from you guys. Thanks, JR
I get 16 to 17 in town and 18 to 20 mpg on the highway @70+mph. I have noticed that I get better mpg when the fuel injectors are clean. I use the Valvoline anual flush every year or two and the difference is noticeable in smoother idle, quicker response, and a little better mpg. I use mid grade fuel. I did a study of mpg vs octane on my old 1984 Trooper over 200K miles and found that mpg would increase with octane enough that 11 cents a gallon more for midgrade paid for itself with better mpg. I did not repeat that test on my 1995 Trooper, but we use midgrade in all our vehicles as a result. The engine computer learns how to run your engine, how much to advance timing etc... You might try following your reset the computer procedure (probably just unhook the negative battery lead for a half hour or something like that) to see if the engine computer might learn to use less fuel after you clean the injectors and switch to midgrade. If you don't reset the computer, I think it eventually learns the new parameters anyway, but it takes longer. Robert
Any Iffy Lube should be able to flush the fluid by connecting their machine to the ATF line where it comes out of the radiator.
The trick of course is that without a dipstick they may not know how to check the level for a proper refill. I suggest you try calling around to another shop that knows that it is full when the fluid is warm, the engine is running and ATF just drips out the upper plug on the bottom of the tranny. At least that is how I set the level in mine. Also it might be a good idea to go in with a gasket for the fill plug as it is a special design and others have reported problems when trying to reuse them.
it was bought from the Oldsmobile-Isuzu-Nissan dealer (the one that is servicing it now) in Crystal Lake, IL. I might have unintentionally mislead you - the CEL was not not steady all the time, it was flashing. But flashing stopped after driving for a while, or after re-starting the truck. Then it would come on (flashing) again. Took it to dealer, but (as it usually happens) it did not flash in their presence. They claimed to have re-set the computer. But flashing CEL came back again next day or day after. This was going on since Christmas, until last week. Finaly, last week it came on and stayed on permanently (lit all the time). That's when my husband drove it to dealer with the CEL lit and left it there... Also, I rechecked Carfax recently, but did not find anything suspicious.
I was poking around Chevron's web site and came across a little info on octane and fuel requirements. I assume these folks know what they are talking about. Here's the link:
Yesterday while preparing to change the oil in our 98 Trooper, I noticed a slightly strange sound from the engine immediately after shutting it off. It sounded like a hissing or loss of pressure, similar to the sound of letting air out of a tire or a train coming to a stop as it pulls into a depot. I restarted the engine and shut down again. Heard the same thing.
The hood was propped open when I noticed this, so perhaps it's always done this but I've never noticed before because when the engine shuts off I'm usually inside the truck and the hood is closed.
Has anyone heard a similar sort of thing? Does this seem like anything to be worried about?
Truck has always run well, except 3,000 miles ago (at 59,000 miles) we had the intake manifold gasket (?) replaced under warranty to address a rough idle and constant Check Engine light.
Hi All, Sorry if this has been addressed before, i read as many posts as possible.
My 95 Troop S (88k) has developed an on-again/off-again groaning sound when i start it. It's definitely under the hood, but when i stick my head under there with the girlfriend at the wheel, I am unable to discern exactly where it's coming from (front left?). It lasts about a full second, then goes away. No ill effects when starting or driving, but this sound has me nervous.
The t-belt was changed at 65k, and the drive belts are all in good shape. All fluids are in the normal operating range. Mileage not effected.
The sound comes most often in a cold starting situation, though sometimes when it's already warmed up. Doesn't happen more than 50% of the starts, never longer than 2 seconds.
I'd appreciate any thoughts/opinions/ideas on this, as well as preferred dealers/mechanics in the Minneapolis area.
I think the fan may have been on, but not the A/C. I'll have to check again tonight, with the HVAC system completely off, and see if it's doing the same thing.
Well, picked my trooper up and the service man told me that they did not touch the ECU because his mechanic said that it would cause me to get poor gas mileage if he adjusted it to run on 87. I figured I would just let it be. The thing runs too good to allow those guys who did not seem to know what they were doing touch it. Quick Lube Express guys said he was familiar with the Troopers and that he could change the fluid. He seemed to know what he was doing and that he had worked on them before. Anyway, I am going to check it out. Thanks for the help. Any of you have an Idea about running synthetic fluid in the Tranny. If so, let me know. Thanks. JR
Just a quick question: How do you check AT oil level if there is no dipstick? I love the way Troppers look but had bad experiences with cars with no way of checking th AT fluid level. So how is it done??? Thanx! Saxon II
I put Mobil 1 synthetic in tranny, both differentials and TOD case at or around 20,000 miles. Have used Mobil 1 5-30 since 4,000 miles. Have 55 K on 2000 S. Only problem I had was to have to add an extra bottle of Gl-5 friction modifier to keep LSD from chattering.
Did your Trooper's differential chatter with straight Mobil synthetic gear lubricant, and then you added the GL-5? I just added the GL-5 right away-- thought about trying the truck without it to see if it was really necessary, but I ended up putting it in right away.
I assume you're talking about the 2002 Trooper, not some futuristic 20002 Trooper
For the past several years (probably as far back ask 1992 model year), the ATF has had no dipstick. Instead, you must remove the overfill plug underneath the truck and see if any fluid drips out. If it pours out, there's too much ATF. If it trickles out or you can feel fluid by poking your finger in a little way, the ATF level is roughly correct.
Does it happen on startup, or when you drive away. I'm thinking that it might be the ABS pump (if installed).
With 88k, you also may have a bad accessory bearing or idler bearing. Try removing the accessory belt(s) and starting the vehicle briefly. Also, spin them by hand to see if there is any binding.
he is a complete and utter troll with nothing good to say about any vehicle except his 1986 Buick "Grandma" Marquis and the other car he dreams of the ohh soo common (get this folks) Nissan Maxima and continues to trash every other vehicle in his path. Just a forewarning of trouble to come with this pety individual.
too bad the Trooper won't be around after 2002 huh (that would be a record at an 18000 year run). And there's really no need to check it since it's a reliable tranny and doesn't have a need for a dipstick. My '95 has one, but it's never low
I am confused about the available colors for the Trooper. I have seen a "true" silver color on 2000 and 2001 models with a darker grey trim. In prior years I have only been able to find a "sand" silver color (beigish/goldish silver). Is the same "true" silver that I have seen on the 2000/2001 Troopers available in 98/99. If so, is it two-tone with grey trim like the 00/01?
I ask this becuase a dealer has a 98 I am interested in buying that he has labeled as silver, but there is no picture available and it's about a 60 mile drive to go and take a look at it. Thanks for any info you guys can provide!
I have a silver 98. It is not grey silver, it's more of a driftwood silver. Definitely has a sandy overtone. Anyway, being a true guy and not too artsy or anything like that, that's about as well as I can describe it. :0)
When I changed to Mobil 1 I added the one bottle of GL-5 as required. I still had chattering out of the differential. After talking to the Isuzu dealer they advised me to add another bottle which took care of the chattering in the LSD. So whenever I change I need to add two bottles. I believe Redline already has the friction modifier added, which may be the way I will go in the future.
But I have to ask: 1: What is the right way to get the spare tire cover off (2002 Trooper)? After you unlatch it, and even loosen the screw, it still doesn't slide right off. I yanked and tried prying it off with my fingers, kind of like using tire irons on a tire. After pinching myself a couple of times I thought I must be stupid. I would hate to tear the darn thing by just yanking it off. Owner's manual is no help. I would hate to think of my wife having to do this. Is there some other fastener I have missed?
2: What is the "passenger footrest" that the brochures are so proud of? All I can see is a tiny plastic trim piece at the lower back edge of the front seats. It certainly provides no support and does not keep your shoes off the fabric. Is this a joke? Or am I so stupid I should just be shot and put out of my misery? Still love the Troop, though I could do without some of these "oddities".
You need to spread the plastic on the bottom IIRC and lift it slightly and then it slides right off. Practice a few times at home because it is a bit tricky. Also after a few times the plastic cover becomes a bit stretched and slides on and off easily. The footrests are those plastic squares under the driver and passenger seats. I found them to only really be useful if you don't have the front seats all the way back.
I never fill up at a gas station when the big fuel tanker is there pumping into the underground tanks. The reason? When the underground tank is being filled, the sediment and water in the tank is churned and is likely to end up in your fuel tank. Most stations have a filter somewhere between the underground tank and the nozzle - but to make sure, I just move on to the next station. Got this from a Bureau of Weights and Measures guy who inspects gas stations.
Also, beware of stations with big puddles in the drive through lanes when it rains. A lot of the underground storage tanks have bad or missing gaskets on the caps to the tank. Water runs into the tanks every time it rains.
I also stick to name brand gas at high volume stations. After lots of problems with fuel injectors in other vehicles I did some research and switched to mostly Chevron and Texaco fuel. With these brands you usually end up with clean high quality fuel with the right additive package to keep your fuel system running clean. The worst problems I had came from cheap no-name fuel so now I avoid them whenever possible. Any savings from buying cheap fuel was wiped out by poor performance, having to clean injectors etc.
To all who answered my question (Paisan, Bluedevils, and dielectrict7bb). Of all the cars that I have had only one did not have the ATF dipstick and that almost destroyed my tranny(which was about 3 cars away). This is the only reason that I am a little bit paranoid about it. I always check my oil and tranny levels at least once a month and having ATF dipstick would come in handy. As for nvedrani: hey the guy thinks that there is such car as Buick Marquee, this should clearly illustrate his knowledge level about automobiles in general. Yes I did create a little heat on Mazda Millenia board. Quiet frankly I do not think that the above car is all that good and I stated my reasons for it there where it belonged. Also I dislike people who get all excited about their cars being mistaken for Lexuses. If I ever buy Nissan Maxima (which is the car that I consider or Isuzu Trooper which is my choice #2), I would not want other people to confuse it for something that it is not. I do not buy cars because they could be confused for other brands and then when it happens that makes my day (which seems to be the situation with Millenia guys on their board). So to make the long story shorter this is why nverdani is following me from MM board here calling me a troll and making fun of me driving 1986 Mercury Grand M. Ciao Saxon II
Well there are some guys who have tried to fit the dip-stick from a Catera to the trooper since they use the same tranny. But I don't know anyone personally who has done it. My Rodeo went 120K miles w/o me even checking it! But on my trooper I plan to get it flushed ever 40k miles so it will get checked then. They hold 9 quarts of fluid so if you are low by 1 quart it won't kill the tranny IMHO.
Comments
You 2K has over 50K already? Damn! I only have 35K on my 2K.
-mike
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/octane.htm
http://api-ec.api.org/about/index.cfm? objectid=DAC32780-7704-11D5-BC6A00B0D0E15BFC&method=display_body&er=1&bitmask=001002002001000000
the CEL came on AFTER overheating/stalling/towing to dealer/engine head replacement due to 2 cylinders with 'casting defect'.
After that, the CEL came on first time while we were on Christmas vacation in NW Wisconsin. Had it TOWED to nearest Minnesota dealer (we did not know how serious it was and did not want to cause damage). They found 'random cylinder misfire', but OK'd to drive it back home (400mi) to have it checked by 'our' dealer.
'Our' dealer said that thay could not see the problem because it is 'self-correcting'. Claimed to have re-set the computer. It came back on flashing on the 2nd day or so after trip to dealer.
Thi CEL appears/disappears intermittently from Christmas until last week. Finally, when it came on and stayed, my husband drove it to the dealer where it currently is.
-mike
I think we all feel bad about the problems you are having with your Trooper.
As for the API link, I searched on "fuel octane" and found the article entitled "Octane: Making the Right Choice at the Pump." Your link didn't quite work. I see that Edmunds does not allow a string longer than 115 characters; that must be why you separated the link into 2 strings?
So, I dropped the Trooper off at the local Dealer today for that ECU update that has been talked about on here and asked about the tranny flush. By the way, the service guy did not seem to understand what in the hell I was talking about when I said ECU update. Sort of like looking into a cow's eyes. Know what I mean. I hoped that the mechanic would know about all of this. Anyway, I asked about the Tranny flush and he said that it would be $162 w/o tax. I asked him what that involved and he said that it was a pandrop. I was unimpressed. I would like to get a full fluid swap for my Trooper. Any suggestions from you guys. Thanks, JR
I have noticed that I get better mpg when the fuel injectors are clean. I use the Valvoline anual flush every year or two and the difference is noticeable in smoother idle, quicker response, and a little better mpg.
I use mid grade fuel. I did a study of mpg vs octane on my old 1984 Trooper over 200K miles and found that mpg would increase with octane enough that 11 cents a gallon more for midgrade paid for itself with better mpg. I did not repeat that test on my 1995 Trooper, but we use midgrade in all our vehicles as a result. The engine computer learns how to run your engine, how much to advance timing etc... You might try following your reset the computer procedure (probably just unhook the negative battery lead for a half hour or something like that) to see if the engine computer might learn to use less fuel after you clean the injectors and switch to midgrade. If you don't reset the computer, I think it eventually learns the new parameters anyway, but it takes longer.
Robert
The trick of course is that without a dipstick they may not know how to check the level for a proper refill. I suggest you try calling around to another shop that knows that it is full when the fluid is warm, the engine is running and ATF just drips out the upper plug on the bottom of the tranny. At least that is how I set the level in mine. Also it might be a good idea to go in with a gasket for the fill plug as it is a special design and others have reported problems when trying to reuse them.
Also, I rechecked Carfax recently, but did not find anything suspicious.
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/fuels/gas_qanda/api_octane.shtml
http://isuzu-suvs.com/events
-mike
-mike
The hood was propped open when I noticed this, so perhaps it's always done this but I've never noticed before because when the engine shuts off I'm usually inside the truck and the hood is closed.
Has anyone heard a similar sort of thing? Does this seem like anything to be worried about?
Truck has always run well, except 3,000 miles ago (at 59,000 miles) we had the intake manifold gasket (?) replaced under warranty to address a rough idle and constant Check Engine light.
Sorry if this has been addressed before, i read as many posts as possible.
My 95 Troop S (88k) has developed an on-again/off-again groaning sound when i start it. It's definitely under the hood, but when i stick my head under there with the girlfriend at the wheel, I am unable to discern exactly where it's coming from (front left?). It lasts about a full second, then goes away. No ill effects when starting or driving, but this sound has me nervous.
The t-belt was changed at 65k, and the drive belts are all in good shape. All fluids are in the normal operating range. Mileage not effected.
The sound comes most often in a cold starting situation, though sometimes when it's already warmed up. Doesn't happen more than 50% of the starts, never longer than 2 seconds.
I'd appreciate any thoughts/opinions/ideas on this, as well as preferred dealers/mechanics in the Minneapolis area.
Thanks,
John
maybe we should trade trucks for a while, so I can see what i'm missing ; )
How come I never see you guys at any of these places in the Pine Barrens. Check out the link.
http://www.axelfiles.com/pb1099/pb1099.html
maybe we should trade trucks for a while, so I can see what i'm missing ; )
-mike
Sound occurs for less than 5 seconds.
-mike
-mike
Just a quick question: How do you check AT oil level if there is no dipstick? I love the way Troppers look but had bad experiences with cars with no way of checking th AT fluid level. So how is it done??? Thanx! Saxon II
For the past several years (probably as far back ask 1992 model year), the ATF has had no dipstick. Instead, you must remove the overfill plug underneath the truck and see if any fluid drips out. If it pours out, there's too much ATF. If it trickles out or you can feel fluid by poking your finger in a little way, the ATF level is roughly correct.
This is a bit of a pain to check.
With 88k, you also may have a bad accessory bearing or idler bearing. Try removing the accessory belt(s) and starting the vehicle briefly. Also, spin them by hand to see if there is any binding.
Tom
-mike
Thanks.
tidester
Host
SUVs
-mike
Did Buick make a Marquis? I thought that was a Mercury moniker. And I certainly don't remember the "Grandma" trim level...
I ask this becuase a dealer has a 98 I am interested in buying that he has labeled as silver, but there is no picture available and it's about a 60 mile drive to go and take a look at it. Thanks for any info you guys can provide!
98-02 Silver = goldisht/silver
00-02 LS = Monotone
00-02 S = 2-tone with Moonmist Grey on the bottom
00-02 Limited = 2-tone with Moonmist Grey on the bottom
Rodeos came in Bright Silver which was the non-sandy color. Check out http://isuzu-suvs.com for a pic of an 00 LS in Silver (goldish silver)
-mike
2: What is the "passenger footrest" that the brochures are so proud of? All I can see is a tiny plastic trim piece at the lower back edge of the front seats. It certainly provides no support and does not keep your shoes off the fabric. Is this a joke? Or am I so stupid I should just be shot and put out of my misery? Still love the Troop, though I could do without some of these "oddities".
-mike
Also, beware of stations with big puddles in the drive through lanes when it rains. A lot of the underground storage tanks have bad or missing gaskets on the caps to the tank. Water runs into the tanks every time it rains.
I also stick to name brand gas at high volume stations. After lots of problems with fuel injectors in other vehicles I did some research and switched to mostly Chevron and Texaco fuel. With these brands you usually end up with clean high quality fuel with the right additive package to keep your fuel system running clean. The worst problems I had came from cheap no-name fuel so now I avoid them whenever possible. Any savings from buying cheap fuel was wiped out by poor performance, having to clean injectors etc.
-mike