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Sean you are in VT right? I'll be at my place in the Adirondacks Memorial Day Weekend if you wanted to check out my truck, and see how it feels after almost 40K HARD miles.
-mike
cheers!
Yes, I'm in SE VT and it would be fun to meet up that weekend. In fact, I'm still going over roads in the Adirondacks for a new tour we're doing so a trip over that way could be useful in several ways. Any offroad gatherings going on between now and then?
Thanks,
Sean
Transfer case and transmission both use Dexron III.
i've been trying like hell to find a good aftermarket site to buy stuff that i really don't need. examples you ask? well, i really don't want a brush guard per say, but rather a bull bar or safari bar. some nerf bars, torque arm upgrades, sway bar upgrades, etc.. i can't find a site that shows the trooper in the application guides. yeah, i see the rodeo listed, but i don't have the little brother isuzu. if anyone can help, please let me know. thanks!!
-rico-
2000 limited
k&n filtercharger, tornado air induction, rancho rs 9000s, yokohama 265/75s, jbl
(in case anybody had any questions).
-mike
-mike
-mike
My only complaints with the AT's are they pick up rocks and gravel when new - then occasionally release them into the fender well at highway speeds - just to make sure you're awake. I've run better mud tires (BFG Mud TA's clean better) but couldn't stand them on the highway. I think the BFG AT may be a tougher tire, but for all around on / off road performance and longevity, it's tough to beat the Michelins.
I've used them in deep mud, dirt trails, rock crawling, snow / ice etc. in some pretty rugged country. They did great everywhere but in serious snow /ice conditions.
I've never had a problem with flat tires, balancing etc. in 60,000 miles. I actually would like to buy a new set but these things won't wear out!
The Michelin M/S seems to have a little softer tread compound and way more siping. They do better on snow and ice and I've never had any problems off road with them.
If you plan to do some serious off road driving you might consider the LT rating in either of these tires.
I'm glad to hear you decided on 75W90 for your Trooper's differentials. That makes me more comfortable with my decision to do same when I changed the fluids 15k miles ago.
Very similar vehicles. Most of my thoughts have already been covered by others, but in case repeating helps to reinforce the consensus:
Monty more expensive, both new and used
98+ Troopy has more power
Monty has 3rd row seat, but you lose cargo capacity unless you remove it.
Trooper seemed to have better reliability/lower frequency of major mechanical failures. I seem to remember some sort of common engine issues (valves?) with the Monty, but maybe that was with the older 3.0L models.
Some days, I look at a 1992-2000 Montero and think it's sharper-looking than our 98 Trooper. Other days, I think the Trooper has cleaner, more classic lines.
I like 'em both.
One thing I didn't like is the dash on the Montero.
Also, I believe that insurance on the Montero is extremely high, probably due to high theft rates. Trooper insurance is VERY low for an SUV. With same coverage, our 98 is cheaper to insure than a 98 Mitsu Galant was and it's cheaper than our 95 Ford Contour SE.
-mike
These are GM automotive people and Isuzu failed to reach them with knowledge about the quality and practicality of the Trooper. To me it shows the real reason for Isuzu cancelling the Trooper and GBX is lack of marketing.
I guess if I had to pick one thing wrong with my favorite vehicle that could never be repaired, faulty marketing is not so bad.
For the rear, it shows 75w-90 from below -13 to only 59degrees F. For the front diff 75w-90 is shown from below -13 to 86degress F.
80w-90 is shown from -13 to 86degrees F for the rear. For the front 80w-90 is shown from 50 to 95+degress F.
80w-140 is shown from -13 to 95+degrees F for the rear. For the front, 80w-140 is shown from 50 to 95+degrees F.
Why 75w-90 isn't recommended to 86degrees in the rear is a mystery to me. So to is why 80w-90 (or 80w-140 for that matter) is only shown down to 50degrees F in the front but -13degrees F in the rear.
FWIW, I ended up using 80w-140 as we have hot summers and relatively cool winters.
-mike
-mike
-mike
If you measure the bumper height from the ground of a stock 92-98 and a stock 99-02 are they the same? If yes, then the same aftermarket bumper should fit both, and the body has been changed to clear the bumper while being mounted lower on 99-02 models.
-mike
Kevin
1) is there one w/o a hitch option?
2) if there is already a hitch on the vehicle would this bumper be able to go on it?
-mike
I don't think a hitch would fit along with the bumper for that very reason; i.e. the bumper is designed as a Class III hitch as well, so it will likely take up all the mounting points of a bumper and a hitch. Hope this doesn't discourage you from ordering one if you were entertaining the idea, we only need two more.
regards,
Kevin
Steve
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Thanks!
The other two systems are to use specific track mounts which are rivetted to the roof permanently, or the system that has been discussed on this forum with the Yakima racks which clamps to the door openings.
There is a good Aussie site which gives you load ratings for the different styles and brands of racks. Just look for Holden Jackaroo instead of Isuzu Trooper as the vehicle model.
www.roofrackcity.com.au
The brands shown here include Thule, Rhino, Mont-Blanc and Rola. They should all be available in the USA. They range from 32kg rating upto 100kg.
Yakima isn't sold in Australia, so load ratings aren't available for them on this site.
About a month or so ago, I asked the question about whether anyone had worked out how to lock in 4H on the Trooper.
Having thought about it a bit more, I don't think I'd ever need it. I did some off-roading in mud and over some rocks about 3 weeks ago and found I only needed a 50/50 split once, when I was already in 4L. And that was only when I was going downhill over rocks and I was after some engine braking.
The TOD operation was otherwise smooth and seamless.
I originally felt that the omission of 4H was a big oversight on behalf of Isuzu, but I'm starting to think that there was indeed no oversight at all.
Has anyone ever found themselves needing 4H in their TOD Trooper?
-mike
-mike
I have Thule bars mounted to the factory provided threaded holes and they seem extremely solid. I am using the www.Overlander.com TR100 brackets which are made of 1/8th inch thick steel so hard it is difficult to drill a hole in it. The location of the roof rack mounting holes in the groove on the edge of the roof of the Trooper also seems like a very strong part of the roof. I even assumed the roof rack holes may have been used to carry the Trooper body around the factory before they put in on the frame.
Thank You
Most of these situations probably require 4 low anyway...but when you come over a dune or around the corner and are faced with it, I don't like to stop, so you gas it and go.
Thanks
John
No word yet, but it was supposed to be today(Fri.) before we heard anyway.
As far as trusting the hitch goes; Calmini designed the bumper with a CAD/CAM app., and will produce it with standard industrial tooling, jigs, etc. I know it's not from an established manufacturer like Draw-Tite or Hidden-Hitch, but to be fair, I'd hardly call it a "home-brew" either. (I also realize that when towing, trusting your vehicle and equipment is almost as important as the quality of that equipment, so please don't think I'm passing judgment on anyone's opinions on this matter.) By the way, I'll try to keep you up on the test-fit.
My two cents, later,
Kevin
-mike
-mike
Where I think there might be a benefit, which has been discussed (but not proven), is high speed dirt roads (not very common), deep sand, or going at speed around corners on snowy roads (where the lock may insure a bit more equal power distribution [with the TOD still allowing slip between axles]).
In general, the 4hi locked is not something I seem to miss (compared to my Selec-Trac Jeep).
The Trooper was not a vehicle I had considered before reading many of the posts here. I was considering things like an Exploder or JGC, but after looking here at Edmunds and other places on the web I started looking at the Trooper.
Needless to say, after a test drive, I was hooked.
Now there is a white '00 Trooper with 14500 miles in my driveway.
Again , my thanks to all of you for turning me on to this great truck.
You'll love your Trooper, been driving em for 7 years and will keep this one for a long, long, time.
Welcom to the crew gao16, you will be a lifer like the rest of us on here
-mike
If you own an older Trooper and plan to install these shocks, expect some difficulties along the way. I had a devil of a time getting EVERY bolt to break loose. I had to remove BOTH front tires to get access to the bolts with enough leverage to break them loose. Also had to remove the tire on the muffler side on the rear, for the same reason. The nuts had adhered themselves to the bolts in that 5 year period. It looked like there had been some Locktite product put on the threads. Top nut on the front, drivers side, had a pulled thread and came off hard all the way. Thought it was never going to come off, for a while. The complete thread length ended up being stripped when I was done.
So, don't think this is going to be a 'walk in the park', quicky.
They are all installed and I have taken a short test drive afterward. Un-impressed so far. Actually I'm disappointed with Rancho or 4wheelparts. One of the shocks had rust developing on the mounting and it came without the label or ty-rap for it. And whats up with having to put the labels on them yourself?? Seems unprofessional to me, especially for what you pay for them. Anyway, all demensions were correct, no problems with sleeve sizing or bolt sizes etc. They all fit together just fine. I'm going to play with the settings a little and see if it improves my opinion of them. I started out with them set on 3 (middle setting). Time will tell......
As for the label, I was glad they didn't include it cause I didn't want mine to be labeled. Hotrodoffroad.com included all the parts I needed and none were rusted. Seems like 4wheelparts had some old or returned stock.
I found that 3/3 is good for around town although sometimes I firm the front up to 4.
-mike
Of course, when unlocking the doors with the fob, the lights flash. When locking the doors, one can press the lock button twice and the Troop should 'answer back' with the horn and lights flash. It did this fine till last night, now, the doors lock normally, but no answer back horn, no flashing lights.
I don't see anything in the manual about how to change that, but I'd imagine there is some programming for it. Anyone have ideas?
The unlocking does the normal 'answer back' where the lights flash.
The doors lock normally, one click for drivers door, two clicks and all doors unlock. The problem is JUST the answer-back feature where the horn honks and lights flash to confirm the lock. That is what doesn't work.
I think there might be some instructions on my webpage, or a contact in the "how-to" section
-mike