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Same thing goes for Buick owners who are generally older demographic and less likely to complain about little problems.
-mike
They built it right in the first place, that is why I wonder about why so low on the initial QS? Sounds wrong.
The headlights are exactly the same as the Troopers. Here's the URL, have a look...
http://www.holden.com.au/app/serve?page=jackarooFeatures&req=safety&cartype=11004&fid=1420
I'll look around the dismantlers, but I wouldn't hold out too much hope. Montereys are somewhat rare and seem to play a "Toorak Tractor" role (SMV - Toorak is an up-market suburb in Melbourne). I also wouldn't be surprised if the previous 92-97 setup worked on the current model anyway.
The Trooper can be fixed. The people you hold dear are sometimes not so easy to fix.
Glad to hear everyone is safe.
-mike
- my Fiancee Melissa after having driven the Trooper about 200 miles on the trip back to VT from NJ
More later,
Sean
I was in traffic today with some Harley motorcycles. They are proud to make a lot of noise. Maybe we should stop trying to quiet our Troopers lifter ticking and instead make it as loud and proud as possible, not really, since all that noise is inconsiderate of others, being an acoustic nuisance would not be a thing that a Trooper driver could be proud of.
(Not that it's been in the shop for anything but standard maintenance since...)
What do they use over there if you don't get H4?
1. Change the engine oil (Mobil 1) and filter
2. Change the front and rear axle oils
3. Change the transfer case oil
4. Lube accelerator linkage (I'll do that)
5. Lube rear prop. shaft
6. Check torque on prop. shaft flange
7. Check Tod system fluid
8. SOTF system gear oil? Is this separate from the Tod oil?
I generally use Mobil 1 synthetic in all my 4-wheeled vehicles and either synthetic or a dino-synthetic blend in my bikes. Is there any reason not to use synthetic in the Trooper? Similar question for the axle oil and other hyphoid oils, anyone used synthetic in those? Should I?
Next, the truck's only flaw seems to be a funky left power mirror that will not adjust high enough for me to see properly. When it hits its limit, it "slips" as if it was jumping a cog. Other mirrors I've known just stop at the end of their travel. Is this typical or does it mean it needs to be replaced (still under factory warranty)?
Did anyone get anywhere with the Australian third seats? Do our (USA) vehicles have all the needed seat mount holes and sealtbelt anchor mount holes?
Anyone tried the "Little passenger" seats?
Cheers,
Sean
Also, in the 99' models did the LTD model come standard with a moonroof? Did the 01' model LS come standard with a moonroof?
The oil is a synthetic, in winter it is BP Visco 5000 5W-40. In summer I use BP Visco 3000 which is 15W-50. I have a Finer Filter which is similar to the K&N two stage filter.
If I'm planning to do any long runs, I will start using a 98 octane fuel two to three fills ahead of the trip. I do get a minor improvement in mileage, but a noticeable improvement in performance. I guess the mileage improvement is only minor because the right foot is encouraged to be more active by the performance improvement.
However, I notice the drop in performance more when I go back to normal 91 octane unleaded. It feels relatively flat compared to running 98 octane.
Any have responses to the maintenance Q's above. Steve?
Sean
That'll have to hold you until the real Steve steps forward :-).
Steve
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I use a K&N panel filter works very nicely.
-mike
-mike
I found two Montereys (a 98 and a 00) in a dismantlers. Unfortunately both have front end damage, so the headlights are just smashed glass and the headlight wiper arms are destroyed.
While I was there, I looked for the third row seats and they had already been sold along with the complete interiors. It seems that Jackaroo owners are on the look out for leather and woodgrain!
I'll keep a look out anyway.
We use 9004 bulbs on our Troopers here which are US DOT legal bulbs. Basically a more diffused light than the H4s. Too bad you don't have multireflector Or I'd have jumped on that for sure.
-mike
However, your items #3 and #7 are redundant. The TOD unit IS the transfer case. This is frequently confused, as the owners manual does a damn poor job of explaining the difference between the two types of transfer cases (the manual transmission models had a standard transfer case). It took me awhile to figure this out initially, too.
The SOTF is a separate device that engages the front drive axle when you hit the 4WD button. It has a small amount of fluid. I don't know if I would bother replaceing that fluid now, up to you.
Regarding the mirror, try pushing on the top of the mirror surface to get it closer to where you need it. The adjustment mechanism will slip and you will hear a racheting noise, which is normal and not harmful. Then try adjusting from there with the controls.
Good Luck!
My gut feeling is that there is no such 'extra' transfer case reservoir. Then again, my opinion shouldn't count for much since for 18 months I thought the TOD reservoir was the auto trans, and vice versa.
FWIW, I'll be switching back to conventional engine oil next change. I'd been running Mobil 1 5W30 the past 15,000 miles but I'm convinced it's a waste of money for almost every consumer out there. Some of the newer SL-rated "conventional" oils, such as Chevron Supreme and Citgo SuperGard, are actually every bit as "synthetic" as some of the oils labeled as synthetic, such as Castrol Syntec.
You might be thinking about the shift-on-the-fly (SOTF) mechanism, which all late model Troopers have near the front axle, regardless of the type of transfer case.
-mike
Anyway, if you live in a cold weather state, you might want to run synthetic, simply because it will flow in very cold temps.
Anybody who has started their vehicle at -20 degrees F will know what I mean.
We also use conventional oil despite the frigid temps in Chicago... Although winters have been very mild this past year.
And, with the deals on '02 Troopers out here, I am seriously thinking of replacing my '85 Corolla (train car) with a new Trooper since we are so happy with the '99.
yes, I'm in Michigan. However, temps are rarely below zero Fahrenheit, so I don't think there's much benefit to the synthetic for me.
1. Change the engine oil and filter (5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic)
2. Change the front axle oil (GL5, 75W-90 synthetic)
3. Change rear axle oil (GL5, 80W-90 synthetic plus "Limited Slip Differential Lubricant Additive", 4 oz., part # 8-01052-358-0)
3. Lube accelerator linkage (all-purpose grease)
4. Lube rear prop. shaft (with M0S2 grease)
5. Check torque on prop. shaft flange-to-pinion bolts (64 NM / 46.3 ft/lbs.)
6. Check Tod system fluid level (Dextron IIE or III)
7. SOTF system gear oil (GL5 80W-90)
8. Check auto trans. fluid
9. Grease all usual fittings
Does that look right?
Went in to the local dealer today to get a rear cargo mat and so forth. Learned, not to my surprise, that they are heavily on the GMC side of their GMC/Isuzu lines. I expected as much so I'll just learn the maintenance on this and get it done by our local mechanic until I have time to do it myself.
I know the jury is still out on synthetic oils but I'll stick with Mobil 1 until I get a chance to do some more reading on the topic this fall.
I personally would also flush the brake and power steering fluids. This has been covered before and no doubt is considered overkill by most but I think it is good insurance to do these every couple of years. In the future, for the power steering you can probably turkey baster out/refill the reservoir a couple of times a year and probably accomplish the same thing.
Unless you are sure the prior owner did it, I would also change the antifreeze.
They believe that there is a wiring harness plug located in the well where the jack is stored. Is that correct? If so, they said it feeds down into a hole (currently covered by a grommet) which is in the neighborhood of the exhaust pipe. Help appreciated from anyone who knows about this; the more detail the better.
Thanks,
Sean
I used synthetics throughout my 1995.5 Trooper, except Isuzu wheel bearing grease and Isuzu brake fluid. I have had no problems with synthetic oil. I like it for the peace of mind that I am doing all that I can to protect my Trooper.
http://www.redlineoil.com
-mike
-mike
Thanks,
Sean
Hopkins mfg # 43255
http://www.hopkinsmfg.com/hoppy.html?litemateintro.html
They are about $25-$30.
-mike
On a separate note, I too would be interested in shopping for used 2001 or 2002 LTD 4WD Troopers, where are these deals? And what kind of numbers are we talking? Problem is, I have been told there are no new 4WD's in the entire city of Houston. I found one in Plano (Dallas), but I'd like to hear more about the numbers people are finding, including interest rates, lengths of notes, bottom $/mo. etc., etc. As Paisan knows, my dream truck is a (flame suit on) Z71 Suburban or GMC Yukon XL Denali (flame suit off - my family has had MANY Chevy trucks for the last 25 years with virtually no problems, thankyouverymuch, and I kind of like their interiors, so....there) but I just can't justify double the price at this point in my life.
Jim
What adapter are you referring to? One for separate turn signals or possibly trailer brakes?
The Hoppy unit hooks directly into the plug on the Trooper and converts the 5 wire Isuzu connector to a standard 4 pin connector providing L/R turn, Brake, and marker lights.
The 5 wires out of the Trooper plug itself are 1. left turn, 2. right turn, 3. brake, 4. tail marker, and 5. ground.
The 4 pin is the standard l. left turn, 2. right turn, 3. tail marker, and 4. ground. The Hoppy harness converter activates the brake lights via a built in relay using the turn signal wiring for the 4 pin. The only downside is there is no facility for the trailer lights to have a separate turn signal (amber), just integrated with the brakes.
So I don't think dielectric's numbers are out of whack.