Oh who cares about that? Give me reliability over initial quality. Intial quality counts the # of times you go back in the first 90 days. So for instance you take a Ford owner who isn't real meticulous about his car, he doesn't mind of the trim is slightly mis-adjusted, or that the headliner is falling out etc. He's more concerned with big problems like engines and trannies blowing up. So he doesn't bring it back for those little problems. Take an Isuzu or Subaru owner, they are usually "car people" and take it back for the slightest problem, this then shows up as bad initial quality. Also I think if you take it in for a recall it doesn't count against you, so if someone takes in a Ford Escape for a recall, and they fix 5 items, it doesn't count against them in the survey.
Same thing goes for Buick owners who are generally older demographic and less likely to complain about little problems.
I agree wholeheartedly. Overall reliability is the key and taking it in for mis-aligned trim vs. failure of the block (GM triplets) is a different story. No one I know has had a lot of trips in for the first 90 days either. They built it right in the first place, that is why I wonder about why so low on the initial QS? Sounds wrong.
I'll look around the dismantlers, but I wouldn't hold out too much hope. Montereys are somewhat rare and seem to play a "Toorak Tractor" role (SMV - Toorak is an up-market suburb in Melbourne). I also wouldn't be surprised if the previous 92-97 setup worked on the current model anyway.
She was used to driving a 92 Corrola, and the Trooper is much more comfortable plus she could see over some of the other cars. But the biggest factor is reliability, we have had several vehicles, only 2 Troopers but on those two we went over 325K miles combined and no major problems. Just things like the lifter tick once in a while.
I was in traffic today with some Harley motorcycles. They are proud to make a lot of noise. Maybe we should stop trying to quiet our Troopers lifter ticking and instead make it as loud and proud as possible, not really, since all that noise is inconsiderate of others, being an acoustic nuisance would not be a thing that a Trooper driver could be proud of.
Is it possible the low initial quality survey rating was due to the fuel-line recalls on the 2000s and some 2001s combined with the timing of the survey? My 2000 was in the shop twice in the first 90 days because of the two recalls...
(Not that it's been in the shop for anything but standard maintenance since...)
Saw a commercial this morning announcing 5K dealer incentives and 0% interest on 4 years. They are really unloading them. I wonder if in 5 years we will have to go to GM shops for service?
Finally got a chance to drive the Trooper (1999, silver/gold, Perf. package) today and loved it, just a great truck and the best greenhouse my tall trunk has ever enjoyed. It's impossible for me to tell what maintenance my Trooper's previous owner did or did not do so I thought I'd have the following done (don't have time now to learn and then do them myself). Truck is at 26,000 ish right now...
1. Change the engine oil (Mobil 1) and filter 2. Change the front and rear axle oils 3. Change the transfer case oil 4. Lube accelerator linkage (I'll do that) 5. Lube rear prop. shaft 6. Check torque on prop. shaft flange 7. Check Tod system fluid 8. SOTF system gear oil? Is this separate from the Tod oil?
I generally use Mobil 1 synthetic in all my 4-wheeled vehicles and either synthetic or a dino-synthetic blend in my bikes. Is there any reason not to use synthetic in the Trooper? Similar question for the axle oil and other hyphoid oils, anyone used synthetic in those? Should I?
Next, the truck's only flaw seems to be a funky left power mirror that will not adjust high enough for me to see properly. When it hits its limit, it "slips" as if it was jumping a cog. Other mirrors I've known just stop at the end of their travel. Is this typical or does it mean it needs to be replaced (still under factory warranty)?
Did anyone get anywhere with the Australian third seats? Do our (USA) vehicles have all the needed seat mount holes and sealtbelt anchor mount holes? Anyone tried the "Little passenger" seats?
Melissa got 19.3 mpg on the trip home from NJ which was a mix of 70-75 mph highway driving, two hours + of crawling traffic and some local back roads. That seems very impressive to me and we're pleased.
Man Sean thats the BEST mileage I've heard of anyone getting on these Troopers! What grade fuel were you using?? You best hang on to that Trooper! I may have gotten close to that mileage, but it would have been all Interstate mileage at about 70 mpg, with a wind at my back. I'd be very impressed to get that kind of MPG. Are you running Mobil 1 oil in it?? Any other non-stock additions to it like K/N filters etc??
My girlfriend got 21.7 mile per gallon in my 1995 Trooper!! She was following me about 5 car lengths behind me. Sure beat the 15 mpg in the 1988 trooper I was driving.
I get that sort of mileage on highway running around the 100-120km/h mark. Mix in some crawling traffic and it drops to aroun 14L/100km. City running is horrendous at 20L/100km.
The oil is a synthetic, in winter it is BP Visco 5000 5W-40. In summer I use BP Visco 3000 which is 15W-50. I have a Finer Filter which is similar to the K&N two stage filter.
If I'm planning to do any long runs, I will start using a 98 octane fuel two to three fills ahead of the trip. I do get a minor improvement in mileage, but a noticeable improvement in performance. I guess the mileage improvement is only minor because the right foot is encouraged to be more active by the performance improvement.
However, I notice the drop in performance more when I go back to normal 91 octane unleaded. It feels relatively flat compared to running 98 octane.
Yes, I was really impressed. I will be running Mobil 1 but I have no idea what's in it now. I've been using regular grade Mobil gas. I just filled again today (driving was a mix of around town, backroads, highway and dirt roads) and the mileage was 16.8. I was hoping for 17 mpg highway and 15 around town so this has been a real treat. The air filter is stock (I believe, actually I haven't looked yet) and I've got mixed feelings about K&N's. Some very good motorcycle techs I know don't like them because (they argue) the filters allow more dirt/dust particles through and thus accelerate wear. I've used them on bikes and noticed a very modest increase in power. Since this is a used car, it's possible that something was changed but it sure seems stock.
Any have responses to the maintenance Q's above. Steve?
Thanks for the kind comments, the wife did good, but she is a good wife so that should not surprise me. I hope to get an adjuster Monday and start repair.
On the off-chance that you were referring to me about your maintenance questions (unlikely, since I can't turn a wrench and am a bit lax about that stuff), I can refer you to the The Edmunds Maintenance Guide, which will suggest what our editors think you need to have done and when, and how much it should cost.
That'll have to hold you until the real Steve steps forward :-). Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I found two Montereys (a 98 and a 00) in a dismantlers. Unfortunately both have front end damage, so the headlights are just smashed glass and the headlight wiper arms are destroyed.
While I was there, I looked for the third row seats and they had already been sold along with the complete interiors. It seems that Jackaroo owners are on the look out for leather and woodgrain!
We use 9004 bulbs on our Troopers here which are US DOT legal bulbs. Basically a more diffused light than the H4s. Too bad you don't have multireflector Or I'd have jumped on that for sure.
I don't know if you meant me (Steve), but your maintenance items look fine, right out of the maintenance schedule (which is a good thing to read!).
However, your items #3 and #7 are redundant. The TOD unit IS the transfer case. This is frequently confused, as the owners manual does a damn poor job of explaining the difference between the two types of transfer cases (the manual transmission models had a standard transfer case). It took me awhile to figure this out initially, too.
The SOTF is a separate device that engages the front drive axle when you hit the 4WD button. It has a small amount of fluid. I don't know if I would bother replaceing that fluid now, up to you.
Regarding the mirror, try pushing on the top of the mirror surface to get it closer to where you need it. The adjustment mechanism will slip and you will hear a racheting noise, which is normal and not harmful. Then try adjusting from there with the controls.
Let's not debate this again! Last time it came up, I think there was confusion and/or disagreement on whether TOD-equipped Troopers also had a separate, and small, transfer case reservoir, located further toward the front of the truck.
My gut feeling is that there is no such 'extra' transfer case reservoir. Then again, my opinion shouldn't count for much since for 18 months I thought the TOD reservoir was the auto trans, and vice versa.
I put Mobil 1 synthetic fluid in the front and rear differentials and the TOD system. There may be reasons not to use synthetic in these areas on the Trooper, but I haven't heard any and I can't imagine doing so would be a bad thing.
FWIW, I'll be switching back to conventional engine oil next change. I'd been running Mobil 1 5W30 the past 15,000 miles but I'm convinced it's a waste of money for almost every consumer out there. Some of the newer SL-rated "conventional" oils, such as Chevron Supreme and Citgo SuperGard, are actually every bit as "synthetic" as some of the oils labeled as synthetic, such as Castrol Syntec.
Remember TOD is just a different TYPE of transfer case, not a separate mechanism. Auto tranny Troopers have a TOD transfer case, and manual tranny Troopers have a standard transfer case.
You might be thinking about the shift-on-the-fly (SOTF) mechanism, which all late model Troopers have near the front axle, regardless of the type of transfer case.
I just got 17 mpg combined highway and around town just commuting to work and running the kids around. Usually fill the tank after 330 to 350 miles. I usually get 16 or 17 around town and 18 to 20 mpg on the highway going 65 to 75mph. I have gone over 400 miles on one tank once.
We're getting about 15 mph in mixed local and highway driving. Our flat out highway runs to NJ from Illinois get us up to 18.5 for our last trip on 87 octane.
We also use conventional oil despite the frigid temps in Chicago... Although winters have been very mild this past year.
And, with the deals on '02 Troopers out here, I am seriously thinking of replacing my '85 Corolla (train car) with a new Trooper since we are so happy with the '99.
Thanks for the replies. This looks like the list I'll give our mechanic:
1. Change the engine oil and filter (5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic) 2. Change the front axle oil (GL5, 75W-90 synthetic) 3. Change rear axle oil (GL5, 80W-90 synthetic plus "Limited Slip Differential Lubricant Additive", 4 oz., part # 8-01052-358-0) 3. Lube accelerator linkage (all-purpose grease) 4. Lube rear prop. shaft (with M0S2 grease) 5. Check torque on prop. shaft flange-to-pinion bolts (64 NM / 46.3 ft/lbs.) 6. Check Tod system fluid level (Dextron IIE or III) 7. SOTF system gear oil (GL5 80W-90) 8. Check auto trans. fluid 9. Grease all usual fittings
Does that look right?
Went in to the local dealer today to get a rear cargo mat and so forth. Learned, not to my surprise, that they are heavily on the GMC side of their GMC/Isuzu lines. I expected as much so I'll just learn the maintenance on this and get it done by our local mechanic until I have time to do it myself.
I know the jury is still out on synthetic oils but I'll stick with Mobil 1 until I get a chance to do some more reading on the topic this fall.
The only grease fittings are the ones on the drive shaft.
I personally would also flush the brake and power steering fluids. This has been covered before and no doubt is considered overkill by most but I think it is good insurance to do these every couple of years. In the future, for the power steering you can probably turkey baster out/refill the reservoir a couple of times a year and probably accomplish the same thing.
Unless you are sure the prior owner did it, I would also change the antifreeze.
Ordered the hidden hitch as recommended by Mike and now need to sort out a wiring harness. The folks at the dealership made an effort but could not find the part number. Does anyone have it? They believe that there is a wiring harness plug located in the well where the jack is stored. Is that correct? If so, they said it feeds down into a hole (currently covered by a grommet) which is in the neighborhood of the exhaust pipe. Help appreciated from anyone who knows about this; the more detail the better.
Some differential oils have the LSD additive already in there or say on the bottle that it is LSD ready, check so you don't end up with double stuff in there.
I used synthetics throughout my 1995.5 Trooper, except Isuzu wheel bearing grease and Isuzu brake fluid. I have had no problems with synthetic oil. I like it for the peace of mind that I am doing all that I can to protect my Trooper.
Yes there is a plug behind a grommet near the exhaust pipe. With the proper wiring harness to connect it should be a 2-3min job at most. I've changed mine several times and it's easier than putting gas in the car. I'll try to take a pic of it and post it for yah.
You don't need to get it from the dealer. Just go to any Pep Boys or the like, trailer equipment store, and you can get the Hopkins Mfg. trailer LiteMate connector.
You'll need a different one or an adapter to go on the std 4-lead ones. I've only seen the ones that have I think 3 hot leads + ground. They probably sell adapters that then connect to that.
I average about 15.5 MPG. About a month ago, travelling from 7000 feet to 700 feet in altitude over 200 miles, I got 25.4 MPG. 65 mph the whole way, with the A/C on. Shocked the heck out of me. I think the pump reading had to be wrong. The miles traveled were correct and I even topped it off as the amount of gas it took was just way too low (something I never do). Just did the same trip today and got slightly over 20 MPG. Just have to keep your speed at or below 65 MPH. Anything over that, and that gas gage is going to run towards the E :-) But who really cares??? These are SUVs, not econo boxes right???
I've been doing my town driving with the Power Drive engaged. It seems I've picked up a mile or two on my gas mileage. Am I imagining that or has anyone out there had the same experience?
these cabin air filters I hear about all the time? Or, more precisely, do I have one in my 98 S? We have a nasty (IMHO) smell that comes out of the vents for a minute or so when first cranking up the A/C. Am I on the right track even? Or is it something deeper and darker? Mold/Mildew/etc. somewhere inside? If so, any cures?
On a separate note, I too would be interested in shopping for used 2001 or 2002 LTD 4WD Troopers, where are these deals? And what kind of numbers are we talking? Problem is, I have been told there are no new 4WD's in the entire city of Houston. I found one in Plano (Dallas), but I'd like to hear more about the numbers people are finding, including interest rates, lengths of notes, bottom $/mo. etc., etc. As Paisan knows, my dream truck is a (flame suit on) Z71 Suburban or GMC Yukon XL Denali (flame suit off - my family has had MANY Chevy trucks for the last 25 years with virtually no problems, thankyouverymuch, and I kind of like their interiors, so....there) but I just can't justify double the price at this point in my life.
What adapter are you referring to? One for separate turn signals or possibly trailer brakes? The Hoppy unit hooks directly into the plug on the Trooper and converts the 5 wire Isuzu connector to a standard 4 pin connector providing L/R turn, Brake, and marker lights. The 5 wires out of the Trooper plug itself are 1. left turn, 2. right turn, 3. brake, 4. tail marker, and 5. ground. The 4 pin is the standard l. left turn, 2. right turn, 3. tail marker, and 4. ground. The Hoppy harness converter activates the brake lights via a built in relay using the turn signal wiring for the 4 pin. The only downside is there is no facility for the trailer lights to have a separate turn signal (amber), just integrated with the brakes.
Our 98 S w/TOD gets about 16.8-17 mpg overall. That's with mostly city driving. Based on our highway results (usually 70-75 mph), I think we'd get around 20 mpg if I could ever drive 65 mph for an entire tank.
So I don't think dielectric's numbers are out of whack.
Comments
Same thing goes for Buick owners who are generally older demographic and less likely to complain about little problems.
-mike
They built it right in the first place, that is why I wonder about why so low on the initial QS? Sounds wrong.
The headlights are exactly the same as the Troopers. Here's the URL, have a look...
http://www.holden.com.au/app/serve?page=jackarooFeatures&req=safety&cartype=11004&fid=1420
I'll look around the dismantlers, but I wouldn't hold out too much hope. Montereys are somewhat rare and seem to play a "Toorak Tractor" role (SMV - Toorak is an up-market suburb in Melbourne). I also wouldn't be surprised if the previous 92-97 setup worked on the current model anyway.
The Trooper can be fixed. The people you hold dear are sometimes not so easy to fix.
Glad to hear everyone is safe.
-mike
- my Fiancee Melissa after having driven the Trooper about 200 miles on the trip back to VT from NJ
More later,
Sean
I was in traffic today with some Harley motorcycles. They are proud to make a lot of noise. Maybe we should stop trying to quiet our Troopers lifter ticking and instead make it as loud and proud as possible, not really, since all that noise is inconsiderate of others, being an acoustic nuisance would not be a thing that a Trooper driver could be proud of.
(Not that it's been in the shop for anything but standard maintenance since...)
What do they use over there if you don't get H4?
1. Change the engine oil (Mobil 1) and filter
2. Change the front and rear axle oils
3. Change the transfer case oil
4. Lube accelerator linkage (I'll do that)
5. Lube rear prop. shaft
6. Check torque on prop. shaft flange
7. Check Tod system fluid
8. SOTF system gear oil? Is this separate from the Tod oil?
I generally use Mobil 1 synthetic in all my 4-wheeled vehicles and either synthetic or a dino-synthetic blend in my bikes. Is there any reason not to use synthetic in the Trooper? Similar question for the axle oil and other hyphoid oils, anyone used synthetic in those? Should I?
Next, the truck's only flaw seems to be a funky left power mirror that will not adjust high enough for me to see properly. When it hits its limit, it "slips" as if it was jumping a cog. Other mirrors I've known just stop at the end of their travel. Is this typical or does it mean it needs to be replaced (still under factory warranty)?
Did anyone get anywhere with the Australian third seats? Do our (USA) vehicles have all the needed seat mount holes and sealtbelt anchor mount holes?
Anyone tried the "Little passenger" seats?
Cheers,
Sean
Also, in the 99' models did the LTD model come standard with a moonroof? Did the 01' model LS come standard with a moonroof?
The oil is a synthetic, in winter it is BP Visco 5000 5W-40. In summer I use BP Visco 3000 which is 15W-50. I have a Finer Filter which is similar to the K&N two stage filter.
If I'm planning to do any long runs, I will start using a 98 octane fuel two to three fills ahead of the trip. I do get a minor improvement in mileage, but a noticeable improvement in performance. I guess the mileage improvement is only minor because the right foot is encouraged to be more active by the performance improvement.
However, I notice the drop in performance more when I go back to normal 91 octane unleaded. It feels relatively flat compared to running 98 octane.
Any have responses to the maintenance Q's above. Steve?
Sean
That'll have to hold you until the real Steve steps forward :-).
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I use a K&N panel filter works very nicely.
-mike
-mike
I found two Montereys (a 98 and a 00) in a dismantlers. Unfortunately both have front end damage, so the headlights are just smashed glass and the headlight wiper arms are destroyed.
While I was there, I looked for the third row seats and they had already been sold along with the complete interiors. It seems that Jackaroo owners are on the look out for leather and woodgrain!
I'll keep a look out anyway.
We use 9004 bulbs on our Troopers here which are US DOT legal bulbs. Basically a more diffused light than the H4s. Too bad you don't have multireflector Or I'd have jumped on that for sure.
-mike
However, your items #3 and #7 are redundant. The TOD unit IS the transfer case. This is frequently confused, as the owners manual does a damn poor job of explaining the difference between the two types of transfer cases (the manual transmission models had a standard transfer case). It took me awhile to figure this out initially, too.
The SOTF is a separate device that engages the front drive axle when you hit the 4WD button. It has a small amount of fluid. I don't know if I would bother replaceing that fluid now, up to you.
Regarding the mirror, try pushing on the top of the mirror surface to get it closer to where you need it. The adjustment mechanism will slip and you will hear a racheting noise, which is normal and not harmful. Then try adjusting from there with the controls.
Good Luck!
My gut feeling is that there is no such 'extra' transfer case reservoir. Then again, my opinion shouldn't count for much since for 18 months I thought the TOD reservoir was the auto trans, and vice versa.
FWIW, I'll be switching back to conventional engine oil next change. I'd been running Mobil 1 5W30 the past 15,000 miles but I'm convinced it's a waste of money for almost every consumer out there. Some of the newer SL-rated "conventional" oils, such as Chevron Supreme and Citgo SuperGard, are actually every bit as "synthetic" as some of the oils labeled as synthetic, such as Castrol Syntec.
You might be thinking about the shift-on-the-fly (SOTF) mechanism, which all late model Troopers have near the front axle, regardless of the type of transfer case.
-mike
Anyway, if you live in a cold weather state, you might want to run synthetic, simply because it will flow in very cold temps.
Anybody who has started their vehicle at -20 degrees F will know what I mean.
We also use conventional oil despite the frigid temps in Chicago... Although winters have been very mild this past year.
And, with the deals on '02 Troopers out here, I am seriously thinking of replacing my '85 Corolla (train car) with a new Trooper since we are so happy with the '99.
yes, I'm in Michigan. However, temps are rarely below zero Fahrenheit, so I don't think there's much benefit to the synthetic for me.
1. Change the engine oil and filter (5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic)
2. Change the front axle oil (GL5, 75W-90 synthetic)
3. Change rear axle oil (GL5, 80W-90 synthetic plus "Limited Slip Differential Lubricant Additive", 4 oz., part # 8-01052-358-0)
3. Lube accelerator linkage (all-purpose grease)
4. Lube rear prop. shaft (with M0S2 grease)
5. Check torque on prop. shaft flange-to-pinion bolts (64 NM / 46.3 ft/lbs.)
6. Check Tod system fluid level (Dextron IIE or III)
7. SOTF system gear oil (GL5 80W-90)
8. Check auto trans. fluid
9. Grease all usual fittings
Does that look right?
Went in to the local dealer today to get a rear cargo mat and so forth. Learned, not to my surprise, that they are heavily on the GMC side of their GMC/Isuzu lines. I expected as much so I'll just learn the maintenance on this and get it done by our local mechanic until I have time to do it myself.
I know the jury is still out on synthetic oils but I'll stick with Mobil 1 until I get a chance to do some more reading on the topic this fall.
I personally would also flush the brake and power steering fluids. This has been covered before and no doubt is considered overkill by most but I think it is good insurance to do these every couple of years. In the future, for the power steering you can probably turkey baster out/refill the reservoir a couple of times a year and probably accomplish the same thing.
Unless you are sure the prior owner did it, I would also change the antifreeze.
They believe that there is a wiring harness plug located in the well where the jack is stored. Is that correct? If so, they said it feeds down into a hole (currently covered by a grommet) which is in the neighborhood of the exhaust pipe. Help appreciated from anyone who knows about this; the more detail the better.
Thanks,
Sean
I used synthetics throughout my 1995.5 Trooper, except Isuzu wheel bearing grease and Isuzu brake fluid. I have had no problems with synthetic oil. I like it for the peace of mind that I am doing all that I can to protect my Trooper.
http://www.redlineoil.com
-mike
-mike
Thanks,
Sean
Hopkins mfg # 43255
http://www.hopkinsmfg.com/hoppy.html?litemateintro.html
They are about $25-$30.
-mike
On a separate note, I too would be interested in shopping for used 2001 or 2002 LTD 4WD Troopers, where are these deals? And what kind of numbers are we talking? Problem is, I have been told there are no new 4WD's in the entire city of Houston. I found one in Plano (Dallas), but I'd like to hear more about the numbers people are finding, including interest rates, lengths of notes, bottom $/mo. etc., etc. As Paisan knows, my dream truck is a (flame suit on) Z71 Suburban or GMC Yukon XL Denali (flame suit off - my family has had MANY Chevy trucks for the last 25 years with virtually no problems, thankyouverymuch, and I kind of like their interiors, so....there) but I just can't justify double the price at this point in my life.
Jim
What adapter are you referring to? One for separate turn signals or possibly trailer brakes?
The Hoppy unit hooks directly into the plug on the Trooper and converts the 5 wire Isuzu connector to a standard 4 pin connector providing L/R turn, Brake, and marker lights.
The 5 wires out of the Trooper plug itself are 1. left turn, 2. right turn, 3. brake, 4. tail marker, and 5. ground.
The 4 pin is the standard l. left turn, 2. right turn, 3. tail marker, and 4. ground. The Hoppy harness converter activates the brake lights via a built in relay using the turn signal wiring for the 4 pin. The only downside is there is no facility for the trailer lights to have a separate turn signal (amber), just integrated with the brakes.
So I don't think dielectric's numbers are out of whack.