Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
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The website is http://www.winanaxiom.com/
What is a good price for this? I am also considering a Wrangler (98?) or an Xterra (99 or 2000).
Thanks.
I knew you meant total interior length, not length to the back seats, so I was just trying to point out that there are 2 ways to look at the length.
On another note, I just got a call saying my Husky mats are here. Yea!
Sue
-mike
bsmart
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/isuzuchat.html
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
bsmart
Check the vendors page on http://isuzu-suvs.com there are a number of vendors there.
-mike
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
http://www.central4wd.com/gocart/brandlist.asp?ID=169
I'm sure this topic has been addressed in the past, but since I just joined this awesome forum, I shall inquire nonetheless. I just noticed a crack starting from the bottom center of the windshield (tinted area just above rubber molding) going up a couple of inches, then heading left (10 o'clock) for about six inches. I was wondering if anyone had any experience in dealing with this: fix-it-yourself; dealer-fix under warranty; or thru insurance. Any tidbits of wisdom would be greatly appreciated...
I know of one other person on here that has had a cracked windshield when the temperature went cold. Since it is especially warm here in NY today, maybe you have a faulty windshield as well. If there is no noticeable spot where a stone or something else hit and it starts from under the rubber, and you may have very low milage, I'd try to get it covered under the warranty.
-mike
-mike
I don't want either the type that attaches to the spare tire or a roof mounted rack.
Thanks
I pulled this from the Planet Isuzoo Mailing list. Its a trip to NC for some very light off-roading in July. I'm planning on being there.
Let's have a big Edmunds turnout for this! A number of us will be caravaning from the Northeast. Here is the post:
> Well, just to remind everyone, Planetisuzoo is having a fun run in NC at
> Uwharrie National Forrest (Point your GPS at Troy, NC) this July 20-22.
> Many people will be arriving on Friday, but if you can't make it until
> Saturday you will certainly still have fun.
>
> We have a write-up from the one last July online at:
> http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=22
>
> If anyone has any hesitation, PLEASE send out an e-mail to the list. This
> event is a lot of fun, and there are trails for all levels of vehicle,
> including stock. I made it last July in my stock 88 Trooper with sagging
> springs. The way I see it unless your truck isn't running, the truck can't
> be your excuse.
>
> If there are any questions, feel free to ask. I will be posting a set of
> maps fairly soon.
>
> -Tad
> Planetisuzoo Staff
1) How much improvement was realized? Please don't exaggerate - phrases like "It handles like a Formula Car now" will be cause for corporal punishment.
2) Do the stiffer sway bars hamper offroad performance in any way, such as reducing wheel travel?
3) How easy/difficult was the install? How long did it take? Any special tools required?
4) Cost & best place to buy the parts.
Thanks in advance.
offroader
-mike
If I do the sway bars, most certainly I would go ahead and do the quick disconnects as I plan a number of trail rides this year. How quick can sway bars be disconnected with these? TIA.
-mike
-mike
I've already got Rancho 9000s (set on '4') on all 4 corners, plus poly sway bar bushings on all 4 corners. The improvement was significant, but I still don't like the remaining body roll on corners. I'm looking for more on-road improvement *IF* it doesn't reduce off road ability. That's why I'm wondering if the stiffer sway bars actually reduce the body roll to a significant extent, and whether they also reduce wheel travel. Theoretically, I don't think they should reduce wheel travel since the suspension geometry is not altered, but I'm just not sure.
Torsion bars are also an option, but they are not the optimal solution to body roll problems, & they don't do a thing for the rear. I would probably get the stiffer torsion bars only if I lift the suspension (w/rear OME coils), which I might do in the future.
Who has actually installed the sway bars themselves? And what about these quick disconnects? Is that something Calmini sells? How long does it take to disconnect? Are tools required?
Thanks.
It cracked on the highway - about a 3-foot gash that went up from the windshield base about 4", across, then down to the windshield base again.
Glass shop did a bad job with the rubber molding along the top - it started bubbling/separating so I took it back and they fixed it up.
By the way, windshield on newer Troopers is a relatively cheap piece of glass - I believe the glass shop charged the insurance company less than $300. It might be even less if insurance isn't involved since the glass shops typically charge the insurance companies much more than private customers. I paid just the $50 deductible.
In terms of other gear info, I often downshift my auto trans on the trooper when stopping. Also, I found it interesting last summer, when I ascended Mt Washington (6000+ ft), the instructions on entering the road/trail suggested using 1st geat on all vehicles going both up and down. According to them, 1st gear would keep the tranny running cooler than hunting up and down through the gears.
IRS = Indy Rear Susp.
-mike
-mike
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
-mike
Also, you easily can swap in a beefier front axle for off-road use, much more difficult to beef up an IFS setup.
http://www.carlheilman.com/virtual.html#top
I've read posts on here about the Adirondack's so I though some of you would enjoy. Personally, having grown up in western South Dakota I like the Badlands and Black Hills shots the best.
Humm, I feel like a drive in my Trooper....
I'm not hard core, except for mud 3 months a year.
The reasons are several: solid axles can typically be made to have much more wheel travel, although the Humvee is an exception to this rule. Solid axles are also much easier to lift for even more wheel travel and clearance. Solid axles are also typically beefier, and are better for towing.
So, many makers have split the baby down the middle and offer SUVs with IFS and solid rear axles.
-mike
What is the cause of this problem and what is the solution? Have others had this same problem?
As a former owner and modifier of Jeeps I am well versed on the benifits of the solid axel setup, easier to lift, less parts, simplier, articulates better (all wheels stay on the ground), ect, ect. However the Trooper has a great setup and can be made better, a mild lift (OME) to clear bigger tires and lift the body higher for better clearance, bigger tires for suspension clearance, and sway bar disconnects (yes, they are avaliable for the Trooper). These items will improve the off-road capability of your Trooper, I've seen pictures of Troopers even climbing some mild rocks. For me though all I ever plan on taking my Trooper down is the ocassional rough trail or forest service road.