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Comments
-mike
The problem with it taking 1/2 mile to "warm up" i.e. shift properly and drive without resistance, is still happening, even with it now being above 40 degrees on the overnights. I will have to get my axle, diff and trans fluid levels checked. unless I can pinpoint it.
Paisan, did you get your bar on? How about some pictures.
We just had the annual 4WD show in Sydney this last weekend. Holden had the new Holden Rodeo (Isuzu pickup)there with the Trooper's 3.5V6 in it. Also, the JackV8 was there, which is the "chopped" version of an Isuzu Trooper with a GenIII 5.7L V8 in it, 4L60 transmission, huge Mickey Thompson tyres and a roll cage. This vehicle was awesome to look at and so well executed it could easily have been a production model.
Sadly, it won't be.
Paisan ... Is the ARB bar you bought, the ARB deluxe steel bullbar?
What do you mean by shifting properly and driving without resistance?
My Jackaroo tends to not change up gears if you drive it gently below 40km/h within the first 800m or so, on first startup of the morning. Particularly in cooler weather. Because it's just hanging there in first gear, it feels like it's resisting.
However, once you lay the boot in and get it up to 50km/h it starts shifting as it should.
I never considered this to be a defect. Possibly a design fault, but nothing serious.
I'm hooking up the orange turn signals with my parking lights. They will make nice fog lights
Held on the lisc. plate with zip ties as well since the holes are in the wrong spot for it. Also the "wide-body" version is great meets the flares perfectly.
Cold ATF: Just was reading today in the service manual (cause my buddy is gonna do my ATF and TOD fluid this week) that the AT won't shift smoothly til it hits 100degrees F. So that can be part of your "problem".
-mike
"Mmmm!!! V8 Jackaroooo!!!" Drool........
Just posting my thoughts, didn't intend on rambling, but don't think I could've shortened it any.
Cbreck
Paisan, the holes are not even, I think they are meant for a winch, not license plate. I had the same issue when I made my fishing rack, I had to set the bolts unevenly apart to make it hang center.
I had to get M12x110 (if memory serves me correctly) nuts, bolts and washers to fit where you need the longer bolts. I also used several flat steel and rubber washers to make a sort of bushing where there will be the gap between the frame rail and the bar. I found the large crescent washer/packing thing, didn't really work so I also put some larger diameter washers there too.
Cbreck, One advantage to the 1999 and a 5 year warranty...I don't have to worry about where/how to get warranty work done 5 years from now.
Tom
Thanks for the heads up on the spacers for that extra bolt. We'll play around with it sometime this week or next, definitely before I connect up a tow strap.
-mike
That makes sense, for the wait for the final upshift at 25-35 mph, however the first 50 feet feel like the engine is rev'ing higher than power is getting to the wheels. I am in low, yet it is like starting in 3rd in regards to power. That's why I say it is like an old tractor with the choke on, the rpms are higher, yet it barely crawls along.
I've had the tranny fluid level checked and it is supposedly fine, but the viscous coupling doesn't seem to working right if it is below 40 degrees outside for the first 50 feet or so. If others are experiencing the same thing, then that gives me some comfort, but it seems strange.
It seems reasonable from what I read that the torque converter/trans is doing its job while is spins to warm up without applying power. I will have to hunt down my paperwork and possible get a flush done on the trans and TOD system.
I was interested to hear you had to get longer bolts for the "packer" attachment point, I did too. A 4" bolt from the hardware store worked nicely through the frame rail. The directions didn't really say where the packer piece was supposed to go, but we fiddled around with it until it became evident.
I was able to get the turn signals wired without too much trouble. I think it is good to have it working as a turn signal, in case somebodies view of the main signal is blocked by the bullbar.
Do you see any shake from the bullbar on bumps and such? I see some...of course it is bolted to the frame, so if the frame flexes the bumper will move too.
I also used black rustoleum paint on all the bolts after I was sure the install was final and secured.
I emailed ARB regarding the longer bolts, packer thing, and the bushing I created...they were very excited, a technical rep called me back to find out the details so they could fix it and correct directions, etc. I guess nothing ever came of that.
Once it's set I'll let you know if it vibrates. My Hella 4000s fit! Yippie.
-mike
Tom
Regarding install, I also had to put some large washers between the bracket and the large hole (the lower rear-most location where the goofy offset and crescent moon washers are used). Did you guys have a gap there? I used 3 washers to fill the gap.
-mike
The crescent thing didn't work well with my install. I think the pinning is just for added strength. Not only for hard impacts, but since it can be used as a tow/snatch recovery point, handle an impact with a kangaroo at up to 40 mph (approx.), etc.
-mike
I have been thinking of options for a Trooper roof rack, and might have a lead on some roof rails originally found on a Isuzu Bighorn. The problem is that finding 2002 roof rails (my model year) is near impossible. I'm thinking that any roof rails from 1996-present would work. Any thoughts?
Also SBCOOKE - My 2002 experiences the same early start hesitation you described. My solution has been to let the truck "warm up" several minutes before leaving. I'm glad others have experienced this. Reminded me of an old carbureted Ford pick-up I had once. Except the Trooper runs fine after 1000 ft, and the Ford never ran fine:)
Don't be fooled by how cute a kangaroo looks. They are very stupid and and can inflict serious damage to a car when they hit.
Very little will survive a hit with a large kangaroo at anything over 20km/h. Including the ARB bars. The bar WILL buckle and become a throwaway item.
The intention of the bar is to hopefully still have a drivable car, despite the damage that will be inflicted.
The best way to avoid a kangaroo is not to drive at dawn or dusk in country areas.
But you shouldn't have this problem too often in the states.
-mike
A lot of 4WD's in the trendier areas such as Toorak in Melbourne, or Double Bay and Vaucluse in Sydney all have bullbars. And they never venture past the local shopping centre.
In Melbourne these 4WD's are nicknamed "Toorak Tractors".
I haven't seen one on a Merc sedan yet.
-mike
JAOS has alot of aftermarket items for Troopers/Jackaroos, but their prices are extremely high. I've noticed that most of their products have a brushed satin finish or are stainless steel. Most of the products in the states are black power coat or chrome (bling bling). Is JAOS considered a high end product in Australia?
-mike
Hey Mike - I know you are a big Subaru fan. Do you think these real "outback" station wagons were off-roading without a low range, or is there a modification available for them? These were the the old style wagons with the all-wheel drive lever that looks like an emergency brake.
Those old ones you speak of were actually not AWD, if there is a lever they were 4wd, just like the part-time systems found on trucks.
-mike
Springs and lift kits can lift Subies about 4", plus you can get tires. Since they are 4 wheel indy you're lifting even the rear diffy and front cross member off the ground, and they'll clear about 11-12", not too shabby.
Again, that may not seem like a lot compared to a Trooper, but remember Subies are feather weights, and "float" nicely on sand.
The lucky Aussies also get optional front skid plates (US models have a rear diffy protector only - I have one). I might get one from Primitive if I decide to go in that direction once my Forester is out of warranty.
My Forester is mostly stock, I basically have bigger and wider than stock tires, wheels with an offset that puts them farther from the body, and the rear skid plate. That's been enough for Pine Barrens runs, lots of beach driving (but no steep dunes), driving around farms and orchards, stuff like that.
No rock crawling, of course. Plus the angles of approach and departure are pretty poor with the stock bumpers. But they're fine for light duty fun.
-juice
The alloys, such as ECB and TJM have their advantages especially in weight saving. However they are "softer" than the steel ARB.
We also have an interesting one called the Smart Bar which is actually Polyethylene. I watched a demonstration of one being driven into a lightpole at about 40km/h. It buckled in the middle. But about half an hour later it had mostly straightened itself out. Still, I would n't want to hit any siginificantly sized animal with it. I don't believe that it will offer enough protection to the vehicle. The bar might straighten itself out in an hour, but the vehicle will still be crippled.
The Subaru Foresters and some Libertys in Australia come with a low range, but only with manual transmissions. The autos are all AWD.
I really do like the Subarus. I think the latest Forester in GT spec would be a great second car for me.
If any of you want to download images of the Jack V8, there's photos and concept sketches available at -
http://www.holden.com.au/www-holden/action/conceptcar?modelid=200- 04
Paisan ... These will look good on your site!
99' Trooper Luxury 49000 miles
Anybody else noticed a rear diffy, oil odor when you've been driving in hilly territory for a while? I've noticed it several times when walking around the back of the vehicle, it smells like differential oil, not really a burnt or hot smell, just the oily smell??? Not using 4X4 at the time. Any ideas?
Also noticed after ascending a mountain locally that the engine and driveline had a 'hot' smell to it, although there was no indication of overheating by the gauges on the dash. You know, that odor that comes from a strained mechanical system. It has happened every time I make that trip, and its a bit concerning. It sure doesn't seem like I'm putting a 'load' on it that should cause these symptoms. Its practically normal driving.
This concern about dealerships 'drying up' has me bugged. I'm gonna call my dealer today and see what his plans are. I know the market value of our beloved Troopers has fallen out the bottom of late. Such a shame for ISUZU. They are no less a vehicle than they were a year ago. I doubt you could give one away these days.
Saying goodby to the 1988 Trooper.....its engine gave up on 2 cylinders the other day. $1500 to rebuild or replace. Geeze the vehicle ain't even worth that. Sad part is I just put $1000 in the engine recently for a severe oil leak. Thought they had it fixed, but it didn't last a week. Goodby 88'...............
-mike
In the past, I have noted an oil burning smell after an oil change. Likely that some oil gets spilled during the change. Did you just have an oil change?
..
I shopped for the last of the 2002's last fall and was not able to get a test drive of a manual transmission one, so I could not compare that with the 2002 TOD Trooper. So I procrastinated and ended up just keeping my 1995 Trooper.
..
I think TOD might be long term less reliable than a stick shift and I think it is fun to shift manually.
..
Of all the years 95 to 2002 which ones are:
1.) most reliable?
2.) lifter tick noise immune?
3.) best MPG and best power?
4.) have the lower body mounts?
5.) best stock suspension, not mushy?
..
Should I take advantage of the great Trooper deals now or try to just keep my 1995 running forever?
If you want to go with a Trooper, the new ones are a great deal, however there may be a decent used supply that could save you even more on a low mileage Trooper?
I'd say 2000-2002 are best cause they are newest and will have the least miles on em.
-mike
1.) most reliable?
Hard to say, the engines/transmissions haven't changed all that much. I don't think any particular year has an advantage here.
2.) lifter tick noise immune?
The 3.5L does not have hydraulic lifters, which is the source of the ticking noise (which is more of an annoyance than anything).
3.) best MPG and best power?
Possibly a 5-speed model or a 2WD might get better mileage, but other than that there isn't much difference between models/engines. The 3.5L will have the best power.
4.) have the lower body mounts?
I believe this would have been 98+
5.) best stock suspension, not mushy?
Again, not much difference here. All the stock suspensions are pretty soft.
One note, the 5-speed models are usually the base model, so if you want the bells and whistles like leather/mult-adjustable seats, moonroof, you will probably have to get an automatic.
FWIW the auto tranny in the Trooper is pretty reliable by reputation.