Nice, let us know how the husky mats work out. I have the std. Isuzu one in the back of mine, and som huge mats for the front and rear (hold like 32oz each or something).
Off the top of my head, I would say that $15k would probably be a good price from a buyer's perspective. That's assuming the truck has been well taken care of. If you want comparison data, check autotrader.com. That web site has by far the largest database of used vehicles for sale of any I've seen.
For the 1997 Trooper Limited $15K is right on target. I recently purchased the same vehicle for 14,950. Mine had 50,750 miles on it. It was immaculate otherwise. These sure fine driving vehicles. I've never second guessed buying this one. You'll be well pleased I'll bet. bsmart
Back in the #500's messages there was discussion about various types of shocks that helped reduce body roll and vehicle sway. OEM was praised quite highly as was Rancho 9000's. I'm interested in getting some for a 1988 Trooper. Is there a website that offers these at a discount price?? bsmart
Here's another source for Rancho schocks. They will probably have a buy three get one free sale within the next month or so. I think it's a nationwide sale so a lot of shops will have the same promotion. Regular price at Central 4WD is $69.99 each. Central is also offering free shipping on this item right now.
I have been driving my Trooper in the "D" position all the time. Today I tried it in the drive 3 position and was surprised at how much quicker it felt around town. I would guess that the milage would suffer driving in the Drive 3 spot but it appears that the overdrive kicks in rather fast even in city driving. Any one else leave the tranny in D3 instead of D when doing normal city driving, under 50 MPH ?.
I'm sure this topic has been addressed in the past, but since I just joined this awesome forum, I shall inquire nonetheless. I just noticed a crack starting from the bottom center of the windshield (tinted area just above rubber molding) going up a couple of inches, then heading left (10 o'clock) for about six inches. I was wondering if anyone had any experience in dealing with this: fix-it-yourself; dealer-fix under warranty; or thru insurance. Any tidbits of wisdom would be greatly appreciated...
I know of one other person on here that has had a cracked windshield when the temperature went cold. Since it is especially warm here in NY today, maybe you have a faulty windshield as well. If there is no noticeable spot where a stone or something else hit and it starts from under the rubber, and you may have very low milage, I'd try to get it covered under the warranty.
I'd keep it in "D" personally, unless you notice a lot of upshit/downshifts. If you want purkier shifts, try using the "Power" switch. That will move the shift points to a higher point (near redline) and reduce the jumping around.
I'm considering a set of the Calmini sway bars & would like some feedback from someone who actually has them, & preferably by someone who installed them him/her self:
1) How much improvement was realized? Please don't exaggerate - phrases like "It handles like a Formula Car now" will be cause for corporal punishment.
2) Do the stiffer sway bars hamper offroad performance in any way, such as reducing wheel travel?
3) How easy/difficult was the install? How long did it take? Any special tools required?
From what I have been able to gather, most off-roaders REMOVE the antisway bars for better off roading. Why you would want to buy one that isn't there is beyond us.
Sasquatch is correct, the stiffer sway bars will lead to less off-road performance. They sell "quick disconnects" that allow you to take out the sway bar once you get to the off-road trail. I'm personally gonna get the sway bars from calmini since it seem to be the only game in town. I may do the sway away front torsen bars as well. I would like some better on-road handling since i do about less than 10% off-road driving.
I'm interested as well in others' experience with the Calmini's, as I'm looking to improve on road handling even further. The higher ride from OME springs reduced handling and cornering somewhat, even with OME shocks and poly bushings.
If I do the sway bars, most certainly I would go ahead and do the quick disconnects as I plan a number of trail rides this year. How quick can sway bars be disconnected with these? TIA.
I've pretty much made up my mind to replace the front torsion bars this summer to even up the front/rear spring rates with the OME rear coils...not sure if I will do the swaybars or not, probably will wait and see how it is after the torsion bars are in.
I think the only improvement that would be worthwhile to me are shocks. The shocks are a little soft, and have a rebound that I don't like. I like the offroad ability of the stock trooper. I have had it over some pretty big ruts and protruding bedrock, and I like the way the wheels stay on the ground. I don't want to mess with the excursion characteristics of the wheels, and I don't personally notice any sway. Is increasing the lift resulting in less wheel travel for you guys?
But then again I haven't done any off-roading since I did the upgrades. End of the month I'll be up at my lake house and hit a few light trails, we'll see how they perform there.
Sasquatch on post #720 implied that the Trooper doesn't have sway bars. The stock Trooper does have them, they're just too soft.
I've already got Rancho 9000s (set on '4') on all 4 corners, plus poly sway bar bushings on all 4 corners. The improvement was significant, but I still don't like the remaining body roll on corners. I'm looking for more on-road improvement *IF* it doesn't reduce off road ability. That's why I'm wondering if the stiffer sway bars actually reduce the body roll to a significant extent, and whether they also reduce wheel travel. Theoretically, I don't think they should reduce wheel travel since the suspension geometry is not altered, but I'm just not sure.
Torsion bars are also an option, but they are not the optimal solution to body roll problems, & they don't do a thing for the rear. I would probably get the stiffer torsion bars only if I lift the suspension (w/rear OME coils), which I might do in the future.
Who has actually installed the sway bars themselves? And what about these quick disconnects? Is that something Calmini sells? How long does it take to disconnect? Are tools required?
Sway bars and quick disconnects is what I'm considering, for all the reasons previously stated. Perhaps we need to put a post on other sites to get the feedback we're looking for.
The windshield on our 98 Trooper cracked this past winter in Michigan. Before it cracked, the windshield had 2 small roundish rock marks about a foot apart. These existed for at least 6 months each and never spread/got bigger.
It cracked on the highway - about a 3-foot gash that went up from the windshield base about 4", across, then down to the windshield base again.
Glass shop did a bad job with the rubber molding along the top - it started bubbling/separating so I took it back and they fixed it up.
By the way, windshield on newer Troopers is a relatively cheap piece of glass - I believe the glass shop charged the insurance company less than $300. It might be even less if insurance isn't involved since the glass shops typically charge the insurance companies much more than private customers. I paid just the $50 deductible.
There was an article, I forget where I saw it about the offroad capabilities of the stock trooper. In many respects it described it as being better than other trucks including those with lockers, primarily because it is designed to keep all 4-wheels on the ground. I've seen some amazing pictures of this with the stock trooper and experienced it through rutted out terrain etc. So I'm not messing with a good thing.
That's good to know, especially with the pitting that seems to happen on this windshield. I wonder if insurance will cover this pitting, if I choose to get it changed out in a couple of years, when its even worse.
The receiver mounted bike rack is a little tricky in clearing the spare case. I think it was CWMOSER who said the Thule would clear but when I looked at the Thule it seemed close. The bike shop guys suggested using an extension with the Thule receiver mounted rack. I think there are some limitions on the number of bikes with an extension as well--for safety reasons. I'm putting five bikes in a utility trailer myself.
Some vehicles use 3rd as a small d and overdrive as a large D and suggest that putting it in 3rd is no problem. I have not read that for the trooper though. I doubt that using 3rd would cause any problems but could result in poorer gas mileage.
In terms of other gear info, I often downshift my auto trans on the trooper when stopping. Also, I found it interesting last summer, when I ascended Mt Washington (6000+ ft), the instructions on entering the road/trail suggested using 1st geat on all vehicles going both up and down. According to them, 1st gear would keep the tranny running cooler than hunting up and down through the gears.
When you "lift" by cranking the torsion bars, you lose 1.5" downtravel, but gain the same amount of uptravel. The overall amount of wheel travel is unchanged.
I've read a lot of posts by hardcore off roaders referring to a vehicle's IFS in a negative respect. What is it about IFS that some hardcore off roaders don't like and why?? Is it a legitimate performance issue or just a bandwagon preference thing?
From my reading and research, SAS is better in off-roading situations than IFS/IRS. I'm not sure of the specifics of why, I think because you won't be able to lift a wheel off the ground with an SAS suspension when going over boulders and such. The problem is that it gives poorer on-road handling, ride, etc. So hard-core "tow my jeep to the trail" types like SAS. For the rest of us who can't afford a dedicated trail rig, IFS with SAS in the rear is about the best of both worlds.
I thought the solid axle also gave you a bit more ground clearance in certain situations, not just when you needed to get a wheel airborne? Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
with SAS, you can only gain ground clearance through tires. your low point will always be the differential. On IRS/IFS, the suspension itself can be raised, then you don't need bigger tires to attain a lift. and you will be able to go over bigger items. It is more $$$ to lift an IS as opposed to SAS.
Yeah, in a few situations a solid axle will have an advantage because the axle and differential will be lifted off the ground along with the wheel when going over rocks and such. Whereas, an IFS is designed for independent wheel movement, so when one wheel goes over a rock, the undercarriage doesn't necessarily lift out of the way.
Also, you easily can swap in a beefier front axle for off-road use, much more difficult to beef up an IFS setup.
I've read posts on here about the Adirondack's so I though some of you would enjoy. Personally, having grown up in western South Dakota I like the Badlands and Black Hills shots the best.
Thanks guys. I won't pretend that I full understand everything you covered, but I get the jist of it. It seems pretty clear that my Trooper is "just fine" for the kinds of trails and terrain I plan to tackle. I'm not into giant boulder rock crawling nor anxious to see how many trail scars I can earn any time soon.
I'm not hard core, except for mud 3 months a year.
Ok, my understanding is that the Axiom uses the same 3.5L Isuzu engine as the Trooper, but obviously there are some differences since the Axiom has 230 HP vs. the Trooper's 215 HP. How hard would it be to upgrade the power on the Trooper (i.e. bolt on upgrades). Any Isuzu techs. out there?
Independent has some advantages, such as ride quality and on-road handling, but it is definitely inferior offroad.
The reasons are several: solid axles can typically be made to have much more wheel travel, although the Humvee is an exception to this rule. Solid axles are also much easier to lift for even more wheel travel and clearance. Solid axles are also typically beefier, and are better for towing.
So, many makers have split the baby down the middle and offer SUVs with IFS and solid rear axles.
I'm checking into the exact differences between the engine on the Axiom and the Trooper. So far the only difference is the "32bit ECU Processor" on the Axiom. I'm checking into the cam-shafts to see if they are any different. Also the compression, etc. are the same.
I have a 2000 Trooper. Ever since it was new it has had a problem with the ignition not wanted to turn to the locked position so that the key will come out. The dealer sprayed some silicon in when the vehicle was new, but this didn't really do much. Lately, at c. 6,000 miles, the problem has gotten much worse, to where the ignition won't turn to the locked position c. 40% of the time. I have to step on the brake and move the shift lever through all the gears several times and try the key again. Eventually something "clunks" and the key will rotate to the locked position and come out.
What is the cause of this problem and what is the solution? Have others had this same problem?
For an IFS the Trooper has a great setup, here's a great site to view just what the Trooper is capable of: http://www.4x4now.com/pp1197.htm
As a former owner and modifier of Jeeps I am well versed on the benifits of the solid axel setup, easier to lift, less parts, simplier, articulates better (all wheels stay on the ground), ect, ect. However the Trooper has a great setup and can be made better, a mild lift (OME) to clear bigger tires and lift the body higher for better clearance, bigger tires for suspension clearance, and sway bar disconnects (yes, they are avaliable for the Trooper). These items will improve the off-road capability of your Trooper, I've seen pictures of Troopers even climbing some mild rocks. For me though all I ever plan on taking my Trooper down is the ocassional rough trail or forest service road.
Comments
The website is http://www.winanaxiom.com/
What is a good price for this? I am also considering a Wrangler (98?) or an Xterra (99 or 2000).
Thanks.
I knew you meant total interior length, not length to the back seats, so I was just trying to point out that there are 2 ways to look at the length.
On another note, I just got a call saying my Husky mats are here. Yea!
Sue
-mike
bsmart
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/isuzuchat.html
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
bsmart
Check the vendors page on http://isuzu-suvs.com there are a number of vendors there.
-mike
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
http://www.central4wd.com/gocart/brandlist.asp?ID=169
I'm sure this topic has been addressed in the past, but since I just joined this awesome forum, I shall inquire nonetheless. I just noticed a crack starting from the bottom center of the windshield (tinted area just above rubber molding) going up a couple of inches, then heading left (10 o'clock) for about six inches. I was wondering if anyone had any experience in dealing with this: fix-it-yourself; dealer-fix under warranty; or thru insurance. Any tidbits of wisdom would be greatly appreciated...
I know of one other person on here that has had a cracked windshield when the temperature went cold. Since it is especially warm here in NY today, maybe you have a faulty windshield as well. If there is no noticeable spot where a stone or something else hit and it starts from under the rubber, and you may have very low milage, I'd try to get it covered under the warranty.
-mike
-mike
I don't want either the type that attaches to the spare tire or a roof mounted rack.
Thanks
I pulled this from the Planet Isuzoo Mailing list. Its a trip to NC for some very light off-roading in July. I'm planning on being there.
Let's have a big Edmunds turnout for this! A number of us will be caravaning from the Northeast. Here is the post:
> Well, just to remind everyone, Planetisuzoo is having a fun run in NC at
> Uwharrie National Forrest (Point your GPS at Troy, NC) this July 20-22.
> Many people will be arriving on Friday, but if you can't make it until
> Saturday you will certainly still have fun.
>
> We have a write-up from the one last July online at:
> http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=22
>
> If anyone has any hesitation, PLEASE send out an e-mail to the list. This
> event is a lot of fun, and there are trails for all levels of vehicle,
> including stock. I made it last July in my stock 88 Trooper with sagging
> springs. The way I see it unless your truck isn't running, the truck can't
> be your excuse.
>
> If there are any questions, feel free to ask. I will be posting a set of
> maps fairly soon.
>
> -Tad
> Planetisuzoo Staff
1) How much improvement was realized? Please don't exaggerate - phrases like "It handles like a Formula Car now" will be cause for corporal punishment.
2) Do the stiffer sway bars hamper offroad performance in any way, such as reducing wheel travel?
3) How easy/difficult was the install? How long did it take? Any special tools required?
4) Cost & best place to buy the parts.
Thanks in advance.
offroader
-mike
If I do the sway bars, most certainly I would go ahead and do the quick disconnects as I plan a number of trail rides this year. How quick can sway bars be disconnected with these? TIA.
-mike
-mike
I've already got Rancho 9000s (set on '4') on all 4 corners, plus poly sway bar bushings on all 4 corners. The improvement was significant, but I still don't like the remaining body roll on corners. I'm looking for more on-road improvement *IF* it doesn't reduce off road ability. That's why I'm wondering if the stiffer sway bars actually reduce the body roll to a significant extent, and whether they also reduce wheel travel. Theoretically, I don't think they should reduce wheel travel since the suspension geometry is not altered, but I'm just not sure.
Torsion bars are also an option, but they are not the optimal solution to body roll problems, & they don't do a thing for the rear. I would probably get the stiffer torsion bars only if I lift the suspension (w/rear OME coils), which I might do in the future.
Who has actually installed the sway bars themselves? And what about these quick disconnects? Is that something Calmini sells? How long does it take to disconnect? Are tools required?
Thanks.
It cracked on the highway - about a 3-foot gash that went up from the windshield base about 4", across, then down to the windshield base again.
Glass shop did a bad job with the rubber molding along the top - it started bubbling/separating so I took it back and they fixed it up.
By the way, windshield on newer Troopers is a relatively cheap piece of glass - I believe the glass shop charged the insurance company less than $300. It might be even less if insurance isn't involved since the glass shops typically charge the insurance companies much more than private customers. I paid just the $50 deductible.
In terms of other gear info, I often downshift my auto trans on the trooper when stopping. Also, I found it interesting last summer, when I ascended Mt Washington (6000+ ft), the instructions on entering the road/trail suggested using 1st geat on all vehicles going both up and down. According to them, 1st gear would keep the tranny running cooler than hunting up and down through the gears.
IRS = Indy Rear Susp.
-mike
-mike
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
-mike
Also, you easily can swap in a beefier front axle for off-road use, much more difficult to beef up an IFS setup.
http://www.carlheilman.com/virtual.html#top
I've read posts on here about the Adirondack's so I though some of you would enjoy. Personally, having grown up in western South Dakota I like the Badlands and Black Hills shots the best.
Humm, I feel like a drive in my Trooper....
I'm not hard core, except for mud 3 months a year.
The reasons are several: solid axles can typically be made to have much more wheel travel, although the Humvee is an exception to this rule. Solid axles are also much easier to lift for even more wheel travel and clearance. Solid axles are also typically beefier, and are better for towing.
So, many makers have split the baby down the middle and offer SUVs with IFS and solid rear axles.
-mike
What is the cause of this problem and what is the solution? Have others had this same problem?
As a former owner and modifier of Jeeps I am well versed on the benifits of the solid axel setup, easier to lift, less parts, simplier, articulates better (all wheels stay on the ground), ect, ect. However the Trooper has a great setup and can be made better, a mild lift (OME) to clear bigger tires and lift the body higher for better clearance, bigger tires for suspension clearance, and sway bar disconnects (yes, they are avaliable for the Trooper). These items will improve the off-road capability of your Trooper, I've seen pictures of Troopers even climbing some mild rocks. For me though all I ever plan on taking my Trooper down is the ocassional rough trail or forest service road.