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Comments
I disagree regarding your comment about the frame taking all of the damage. If that were true, why do you find the need to protect the bumper? If the bumper were solid, it would transfer all of the impact to the frame--not necessarily a good thing. The bumper, sheet metal with a foam core, will collapse as it is hit, thus lessening the G-forces transferred to your body--a good thing.
Now, the hitch. Although I have no solid evidence, I can envision a scenario where you get rear-ended with your bumper protector installed. When the steel hitch pin shears, the 2" square hitch gets driven forward. Perhaps I was inartful when I said "receiver." What I really meant was the part stuck into the receiver.
I don't really know if any of this will happen. And I understand your perspective because you live in NYC and don't want countless flaws on your rear bumper cover. But I don't think you can conclude that routing impact forces through the hitch assembly is a good thing without some kind of test. At least we know that the bumper has met some kind of standard.
Again, though, this is like oil changes. Run what you want for as long as you want. I don't mind. But I may not agree with your choices.
Tom
The bumper cover covers nothing, there is nothing under that that "absorbs" the impact you speak of. If you notice on all new Full-size SUVs (Tahoe, Excursion, Explorer, Expedition, Suburaban, Trailblazer) there are reciever hitches mounted directly behind the cover (no foam) and stick out past the bumper cover, this transfers the force to the frame directly as well.
As for the reciever pin "snapping" That isn't going to happen, if anything they would bend, but not snap. Even so on most hitches the back of the receiver is solid, the tounge couldn't slide forward through it.
This theory of yours is very flawed, this would mean that anytime you are trailering something behind you, you leave yourself open to this happening.
Sorry to say that you are just wrong in this situation, especially without having any test or real world evidence of any of your "theories" ever occurring.
-mike
And you are exactly right about trailering. The difference is that the thing you are trailering can bend, break, or move sideways a lot easier than getting rammed straight on into the receiver. Not true with just the ball sticking out of the receiver.
I tire of this discussion. Like I said before, it's like oil changes. There is no right answer, at least without more information.
Tom
i am knew to the forum. i've been reading it and it looks like a lots of info and help for trooper owners. so i have some small problem that i hope someone can give me suggestions for.
I have '02 Trooper with 12k on it now. at about 9 k a noticed small leak from TOD. the leaking fluid is defenetly ATF, driping from TOD (at least what it appears), the dealer claimed that the problem is a seal in transfer case(?!). i figure they know what they doing, so they replaced the seal. at 1st it appeared that leak is gone, however a month later (about week ago) i noticed that some leaking is still there (less then original).
did dealer diagnose the problem corectly on the fist place? or it is a new problem.
thanks Stan
Interesting that you have had the problem twice. I have never seen that problem here on the forum before.
You may want to consider shopping for a new dealer if you are in a metro area.
Tom
To each his own...
-mike
Another tip is to treat the weatherstripping once or twice a year with armorall or silicone. I use armorall with a papertowel. It keeps the rubber softer and seals around the roof rack towers/feet more easily.
I know it's a requirement for the trannie, but I don't know what the deal is with the TOD.
Any other tips?
Tom
-mike
http://www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?port_code=autoweek&cat- _code=carnews&loc_code=index&content_code=00470802
Jim
-mike
Anyway, I have a maintenece question regarding my bro in law's 2000 Passport, (Sadly, there's no Passport discussion board). Anyway, I think the V6 used in his `Port is the same unit used in the >'98 model Trooper???
His 'Port has been giving him a hard time when starting the engine when cold. Sometimes requiring 3x or more tries before it finally starts. He says his mechanic says he needs to replace an ion sensor(?) but he's wondering if he can just adjust the idle a bit so that it doesn't die after he starts it. But, he can't find the idle screw. If anyone has any info regarding how to fix this little problem, it would be greatly appreciated. Also, the 'Port has ~60K, what type of maintenece is usually required at this point?
Thanks
Steve, Host
Anyway, your BILs problem could be the fuel pressure regulator, or possibly the intake manifold gasket (FPR is more likely IMO).
The mechanic could have been referring to the oxygen sensor, but AFAIK that doesn't come into play for cold starts. On most designs the computer doesn't even take information from the O2 sensor until the engine is warmed up.
The Rodeo board is probably a good place for Passport questions, they are basically the same vehicle.
Jim
I checked the Rodeo section first cuz they are the same vehicle, but I usually check the Trooper discussions daily cuz hopefully soon I'll be able to finally buy one. Love the Trooper!
Umm, I think the V6 is rated at 205 hp, its been awhile since the 'Port has been serviced and my BIL is kinda used to working on older vehicles so that’s why I thought I'd ask here first. I think eventually he’s gonna take it in for the 60K maintenance, but he kinda wants to do some of the maintenance himself.
Sorry I should have been clearer, it’s hard to start after it has been sitting for a while, so it's the engine that’s cold. I thought fuel filter too, but maybe the spark plugs and wires need replacing, so I'll let him know.
Thanks also Steve for the link, I've been looking for a way to look up TSBs. How do they work anyway, do let the dealer know about the TSBs that affect your car and do they have extra info regarding how to fix the problem?
Some people go in with a complaint and mention they saw a TSB that sounds like it may apply. Others wait until the dealer says "cannot reproduce" and then they bring the TSB out. Still others say they saw a TSB and would like to see the "full" text since we only have summaries here. This gives them a lead in to ask the service writer whether their car needs it.
Anyone have a favorite technique?
Steve, Host
Have your friend turn the key to ON for a few seconds before cranking. That starts the fuel pump and repressures the line. If the vehicle starts fine using this technique you likely have found the problem.
I really doubt your friend has an ion sensor problem. It would be the first one I have ever heard of. Also I would think that would cause problems at all times not just for the first couple of failed cranks.
1) Fuel Pressure Regulator or
2) Intake Manifold Gasket
If the car has problems pre-start, then it's the fuel pressur regulator if it's post-start til the engine is warm, then it's probably the intake manifold gasket.
Welcome to the crew by the way.
-mike
What's happening? 6 days without a post!
-mike
Springs I'd go for OME 912s or 919s.
I'd do the springs first then crank the T-bars then do the tires. As for the spare, it's debatable which way to go. I kept the stocker as a spare, others go for the 5-tire dealio.
-mike
I had my thermostat replaced which also replaced my IMG so I am thinking it might be something with the fuel pressure regulator? Any ideas?
..
I went with 255/70/16 Dueler A/T Revo tires and am very happy with the ride / handling / noise level.
..
Going to larger tires will reduce your MPG, IMO based on the weight of the tires. The tire store can tell you shipping weight for each tire size so you can decide how heavy you want to go. Bigger tires look great on Troopers.
..
I wanted to go with 265/75 or 275/70 until I saw the weights, nearly double the stock tire weight! Then I decided to go with the 245/75 load range C and ordered them. When the tires arrived, they were load range E which are 30% heavier than load range C and would ride like a cement truck, so I turned them down. I was out of time before a trip and the 255/70 were available so I went with them. They were awsome in the snow. Maybe next time around I will finally go for the big ones, and get a small car (turbo Subaru maybe, but then my wife will want to drive it and I'll be stuck driving the minivan...Hmmm) for the daily commute.
-mike
-mike
My tach has two modes.
1) working 100% normal
2) reading 500 rpm low @ idle and 500 rpm high above 1500 rpm.
It seems to switch between these two modes at will.
Remember that these engines are controlled by a cpu, so if the engine actually is surging, it's more than likely a sensor or cpu problem.
Even if one factors in the Luxury/Performance options on my Trooper, the Retail comes to $14K, and Trade-In at $10K. The hail damage of $3K is a high percentage of the value and while the damage is noticable, it is not that bad.
Its amazing how far our Troopers have dropped in value. If I were in the market for an SUV, I would try and find an outstanding example as the price is definitely attractive.
+$94 = Red
+$44 = White
+$37 = Dark Red
+$30 = Silver
-$33 = off white (Creme)
-$42 = Black
-$53 = Dark Blue
-$60 = Dark Green
Looks like Green is the least favorite color.
How do I check the EGR valve? Anyone know of any online diagrams I could view? Do you think that could be related to having my catalytic converting going a few months back? i.e. warranty repair?
The cover doesn't fit and the place I had the work done ripped mine slightly trying to put it back on. If you are going to replace the spare ahead of time...take you cover off before you go in.
I am sure the tires added weight and are heavier than stock...but I cannot notice any driving difference related to that?
The A/T tires are noticable at highway speeds. Smooth and quiet, but there is a little vibration, especially on grooved roads, they seem to pickup road variations more than the stock.
My take FWIW is that the only way to really check the EGR valve is to open it up and look at it.
Here are some posts about the EGR valve - http://www.4x4wire.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=68;- - - t=010615
leedavidyoung "Isuzu Maintenance & Repair" Jan 22, 2003 12:06am
A search here will also turn up many more EGR posts.
I did pre-order my gaskets and scheduled a service next week. I guess I'll have 'em check the EGR system as well.I might have Autozone check my code too since CEL is on again.
It was replaced when I had my engine rebuilt a ways back...long story and a lot of water.
On the wire there was mention of a TSB? I will have to look into that.
I have about 4,000 miles on the new Revos. They are sweeeet! Again, they are 265/75. This time I got the standard load rating rather than the "C" load rating. The ride is exceptional - very quiet and smooth. There is no vibration. They actually feel round. They track much better than the Pirellis. As we are now out of the winter mode around here, I have not had a chance to test their snow traction.
These tires have made my Trooper feel new again. You can get them at the Tire Rack. I know they are very popular and supply can be a problem.
-mike
Another note regarding steering play and a clunk on center steering. The dealer really has given me the runaround trying to get this fixed. They said that even if they try to fix it, they could even make it worse?
Well I said OK, if that is what you think...but I want a "safety inpection" performed and you guys to put on paper that you recognize the issue, it is not fixable and that you deem it not to be a safety concern.
That put them into a tizzy. They do not want to sign off and say that it is OK to have. To that I said "if you cannot vouch for its safety...then fix it, either way I will be satisfied". We will see where this approach gets me.
It drives so nice. All ticking is (temporarily, I'm sure) gone, the tranny is really quiet, like some had mentioned experiencing after flushes and fills, and the tech showed me the timing belt. It was stretched almost 2" and had a very definitive point at which every tooth or rib was glazed. Very glad it didn't break. If you'll recall, my 1998 4x4 is recommended to be changed at 60k with heavy use or 75k with normal use. I deemed my use to be normal, and I appear to have been right, just barely. Also....drumroll please....I strolled right up to the mechanic himself and asked the million dollar question, is it or isn't it? (interference). His reply? No it is NOT. Who knows if he's right. I'm confused by the whole thing, but this is just one more perspective/opinion.
Jim
Snow traction seemed fine, although it is hard to compare until I get something else.
As far as wear, I already have 35K on them and at least 10K left to go by the looks of it. I will probably get something new by winter, though. I once made the mistake of trying to skate through the winter on marginal tires and it cost me.
On the plus side, they have given me fantastic traction in Moab for 3 years running. I have gone up some of the steepest slickrock climbs out there with little or no tire spinning, certainly less slippage than anyone else in the trailride groups. Of course, I tell them it is driver skill... ;-)
I am thinking about BFG T/A KOs for my next tire. I am also wrestling with the idea of two sets of tires (daily use vs off-road). Still not sure what to do, my problem is I would like to go to 33s for off-road, but don't really want that big of a tire for daily driving.
BTW Tirerack has posted a test of 3 AT tires:
http://tirerack.com/tires/tests/value_offroad.jsp
What is the difference between the Bridgestone A/T Revo and the Dueler H/L's?