I just put it in when I end a 1000 mile trip. No muss no fuss. Very simple.
Now I'll let you know, I drive my truck at 80+mph sometimes towing a 1500-5000lb trailer. I pretty much squeeze every ounce of performance out of my truck 95% of the time. So 1Q ever 1000 miles for me is not a problem.
You're right I did make an assumption about your driving habits based on this quote from you - "I also drive like an old man and I doubt the truck knows what its power hides over 2700 RPMs".
Now your old man style has been clarified to mean -"I usually drive on highways (25 miles each way), my cruising speed is about 75MPH (2700 RPM)". That is like no old man I know of unless or course you are in the left lane with your blinker on the whole trip :-).
I readily admit the whole oil usage thing is frustrating and a mystery as there is clearly no definitive cause let alone cure. I still stand behind my theory that a dirty egr, pcv . . .etc. cannot help this situation. No doubt the factory too could be involved. But it does make me wonder how (let alone why) they could be assembling some engines and not others as oil burners all these years.
Like I said I don't have the answer only some thoughts that others are more than free to disagree with.
Mine has burned 1Q every 1000 miles since day 1. Had it checked a few times, but no help from the dealers. I may try to have my local dealer start a test but not sure yet.
I got my truck back after having the IMG replaced. It runs much better now, however not 5 minutes after leaving the dealer, the CEL came on again. Now I have to make a 4th trip back to this place. I am not a very happy camper.
I am trying to ramp up for a big family vacation, and car problems with a vehicle with 30K on it is quite frustrating. I realize these are relatively minor issues, but I have burned 12 personal hours on this and 1/2 a vacation day so far. I am going to have to burn another 1/2 vacation day this week. Very annoying. I am toying with getting rid of this truck...I really enjoy driving it, but I cannot have these kind of headaches.
I need some quality time with my truck so I can once again feel good about owning it. If I have a problem on vacation I am pretty sure I will be dumping it.
I think I know what happened. I got a CEL and they probably just assumed all the codes were related to the IMG and not real. So anything else like the EGR valve, solenoid, etc probably just got reset and thought to be caused by the other problem.
Burning 1 qt every 1000 miles since new is excessive - I'm from Montana where some of my trucks spent 4 straight months with 4 wheel drive engaged and that was just to get around town - not counting all the days spent in the mountains hunting and fishing - and Montana for a long time didn't have a speed limit - we just flew -rarely did I add a quart of oil to anything before changing. Why some Troopers use oil and some don't is perplexing - maybe you ought to have that test while the warranty is still in your pocket - goodluck. Is this an issue with Rodeo's too? = should be
For what it is worth...I have never really burned any oil, except for the initial 1000 miles? I had a rebuild at 18K...long story...but except for the first 1000 miles nothing. I have had other problems though.
I don't know much about the mechanical problems with the newer volkswagons, but I think that they are some of the hottests car styles on the road. The Passat has some nice lines. I don't think you'll ever go wrong getting your wife what she wants.
I didn't realize that some of these Troopers burn 1 qt per 1000 miles! I know that a previous poster mentioned an aux. oil cooler helping. It might be worth trying.
SOHC 3.2 didn't burn a quart during it's 120K miles I had it and that was with 5-10K change intervals on dino!
Once I get more settled in at work, I'm gonna see about bringing it to the dealer about the oil problem. My biggest concern is that they'll pull the old 1Q/1000miles is within spec, and then they'll say "well you have the big [non-permissible content removed] bumper, bigger tires, trailer hitch, etc" so we won't cover it under warranty.
The dealer thinks that they just forgot to tighten the gas cap? They said the only code was a 440...gross evap leak? Which is typically the gas cap. They pressurized and tested and said they cannot find anything wrong?
I drove home and this time I didn't get a CEL 5 minutes after leaving...Ahhhh it is nice to drive my truck again. It will take a little time to get some confidence back to take it more than 10 miles from home. I think I will make a road trip somewhere this weekend.
Mine turned out to be code 440 as well which is EVAP Leak. The service manager mentioned that I might have started the truck prior to the gas cap being tightend after a fill up. Re-check of pcv valve also proved to be negative for blockage.
I got a CEL and the dealer said it was the gas cap. I asked him about it possibly being the IMG and he was like "not likely sir, we've seen this before". I left the truck there with him to clear the code and check it anyway. Three hours later, he calls me at work telling me I was right it's the IMG. Sometimes the human factor kicks in and if you don't push people to do jobs correctly, people will take the lazy route.
that was the 2nd time I had to bring it back...I asked them to check the IMG and they said that it wasn't that for sure...it was my IAC Valve. I understand my dealer cannot fix something they can't find, however I think they are just bad.
I asked my service rep..."do you think I would buy a car from here? Would you?" I got "I understand your frustration".
here is my problem: 00 Trooper S w/49K mi stalls at low RPMs, such as at the traffic light, going out of the driveway (and waiting for other cars to pass), even when idling in Park. Goes fine at higher speeds and rpms. Any thoughts? tx
I have a dark green '01 LS. A month ago the paint(same color) started peeling off the inside of the fender flares. Well, now it is creeping out to the outside of the flares. Anyone else getting this? Has Isuzu or a dealer been any help? The truck is barely 2 yrs old, with 31K, and I don't think the paint should be peeling! Thanks!
Well there could be several things. Something in the emissions could be fouled (EGR Valve? Fuel Pressure regulator, Idle air control valve) The intake manifold gasket could be blown? 1999 models are notorious for this, but maybe in an '00? Your battery or alternator could be having problems keeping voltage?
I just had my IMG replaced and had the same symptoms. It took until I got a check engine light with the specific codes for the dealer to acknowledge it. It only took about 2 weeks from first symptom to being bad enough to register on the computer.
We've already went thru 'check engine light' last year. Had smthg cracked in engine - they said it was manufacturing casting defect. maybe it was IMG - i am not good w/terminology - need to look up receipts. they replaced it (not the entire engine) under warranty. also had cylinder misfires and ensuing repair - smth. w/disrtibutor. The list is too long. How much ea of those (EGR,Fuel Pressure regulator, Idle air control valve) can cost? Will they fall under 'powertrain warranty'? they're charging us $370. actually they talked to my husband so I dont know what the official diagnosis is yet.
this car was in that shop countless times, mostly with serious stuff. the also had GUTS to ask us if we'd want to buy another Trooper from them... this was last year... also the same crap about understanding our frustration. yeah, right. another POS Trooper. No wonder Isuzu is in deep .... !
I think Sbcooke hit the likely suspects. Although with a rebuild they should have used newer intake manifold gaskets to solve that problem. Also, if it was your battery, by now with all the restarts I suspect it would have fully died. If you are the Viktoria that was posting here before you have absolutely the worst experience of any Trooper owner I have ever read about with your dealer and your Trooper. In any event here's wishing you good luck in the future.
results: they replaced spark plugs (I think this was unnecessary since per manual it supposed to have platinum spark plugs that should last up to 100K mi), also 'cleaned' 'carbon deposits' from EGR channel (?) and intake manifold (?). $370. I have a strong suspicion that above are neither the sources of the problem nor cleaning them will solve anything. 2 years left to pay for POS.
The Rodeo board is dead so I'm posting here. I'm looking for tires for my Amigo. Have 42k on the original Wrangler APs. I use this car for around town stuff and am looking for smooth riding highway tires (no jabs please). Am currently looking at:
On another subject. Concerning dealers, I use Century Isuzu in Huntsville, AL. I have NEVER had a problem with warranty work and they roll out the red carpet every time I go there. They also service and sell Buicks, BMWs and Volvos. If it was Century Isuzu, Kia, Hyundai it might be a different story...
How bout that - I live in Madison and bought my Trooper from Century Isuzu - agree with the red carpet treatment - although I only have been in once for a problem - suggest the Michelin all terrain - have never owned a bad Michelin anything and every time I put a set on a go wow! - worth the extra money
I live in Madison too! Right off of Hughes rd. near AutoZone.
I really would like to get the Michelins but will probably go for the BF/Goodrich Open Trail T/A. Sam's club has them for $80. The Michelins are at least $50 more
What about Yokohama Geolanders? They seem reasonably priced. Any opinions on them?
Heck, I might take the Bridgestones off my wife's Rodeo, put them on my car and get her the Michelins.
I'm usually not a cheapskate on cars but with 3 kids, private school, dance lessons, Chuck-E-Cheeze, it adds up quick...
I have a 2001 Trooper S. I love the keyless entry, but could do without some of the anti-theft features like: being unable to lock my doors with remote while a door is open without the alarm going off, or reaching inside an open window and pressing the door unlock buttons without the alarm going off.
Does anyone know if I can disable the "alarm" part of this system but still leave the keyless entry features intact?
Yea - I have been looking at the Geoplanders too. NTB quoted me $129 ea but I have found them on the internet for $97 265-70-16 not counting shipping. The reviews by owners of these tires have been great. I have not done this yet but the guys at Sam's club told me to go to their internet site and you can pick and order your tires from there - Sam's price should include mounting balancing road hazard and associated stems and such. I live off of Wall Triana by the way.
Ok. I want to hear what the masses have to say. I have scoured this forum and read everything having to do with hitches and bike racks. I have followed the majority and ordered a Hidden Hitch from JC Whitney. But I am still undecided on the bike rack. Some have referenced a Nashbar that should (hopefully) clear the back tire:(http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=71&subcateg- ory=1019&brand=&sku=6416&storetype=&estoreid=) for $100.
I don't know too much about bike racks, logic tells me that racks with two arms would be more stable than one like the nashbar. Anybody able to vouch or recommend another?
The more expensive racks might be kinder to your bike. But the expensive ones get up to $300 plus. I haven't had any trouble with my Nashbar (Saris) 4-position rack, but I don't use it more than once a month or so.
A friend of mine uses a similar one from Valley on his Accura SVX, but with a spare tire cover installed, it won't fit on the Trooper.
Dunno where you are, but if you are in the D.C. area, I'd be glad to let you try it on your vehicle.
I'd go for one that mounts on my spare tire, the spare tire holder is VERY strong. I know guys who use this to get to their safari racks, they just climb up ontop of the spare tire. So It should hold your bikes no problem. This will eliminate the problem of having the door swing into your rack.
tkevinblanc- thanks for the offer, but I'm in St. Louis. Couple of questions though. On the Nashbar, did you need an extension bar? Are the bikes fairly stable on the one arm? Does it fold down without detaching allowing access to door?
Paisan- You are far more the adventurer than I. I think I will leave my spare cover on, although it is tempting, but I believe my '02 has a non-alloy spare.
I keep my cover on as well, I did buy an alloy for mine to replace the steel wheel but still keep the cover on. Although when I was gonna use a bikerack I'd just remove the cover temporarily. I'd find swinging away a bikerack more annoying than not having a cover on the tire
I have this it works great, but the little nub that hold the tire up while you bolt it on has to be removed. Has anyone found a way to modify the Thule to add this feature?
My rack does fit without an extension, but most do not. I got mine on close out from Bikes USA, but it's the same as the Nashbar three and four single strut racks.
It's 2.5 inch square steel. It's more than strong enough.
The bikes are fairly stable, but, like I said, a two point mount would probably be more stable.
Yes, it does fold down, but loaded with four bikes, you couldn't do it.
I have a 99 Trooper S with almost 30K miles. I noticed at the end of last summer I started to stall every once in awhile. The problem always seemed to happen when 1) my a/c was on, 2) in the first 5 minutes of my drive, and 3) when I was slowing down.
Now that summer is here again I brought it back to the dealer and everything checks out fine with the computers and they can't find a problem or recreate it.
When I had my Trooper I USed a tire mounted rack and it worked great, easy on - easy off. I removed the tire cover to put the rack on, but that is easy to do once you get the technique down. I can't remember the brand, but I bought it a a bike store and it just fit over the top of the tire with very little effort. It was very stable. I now have a hitch mounted rack on my Axiom and it is more trouble to put on and take off than the tire mounted one on the Trooper. They both work equally well.
I feel your pain. I just went through the same issue with my dealer. With 30K on a 99 you probably drive as much as I do (which is mostly very short trips). It took a long highway trip to make the problem bad enough to find and multiple trips to the dealer to have them find the intake manifold gasket was bad. I had poor performance for about 6 months...stalling, gas mileage, etc. Good luck.
I have 2 types of racks. A Thule roof rack with fork mount carriers for my Trooper and a hitch mounted Thule for my MDX. I prefer the roof rack over the hitch mount. When the bikes are attached on the roof rack they are on and don't move around. The only drawback is having to hoist the bikes up to the roof.
I use the tilt back hitch mount for the MDX because it is hard to get bikes on top of any SUV and the MDX is my wife's car. The bikes move around a lot on the hitch mount and it is a pain to get in and out of the rear (even though the tilt feature is very easy).
Outdoorsports.com carries a lot of different racks and is very affordable, if not the best pricing you can find on the web.
I just bought a used Trooper S with 18k miles. I picked it up last night, and I love it! There is one question that I have for all of you. When I am in park, and I turn my air conditioning on, my rpm's increase and decrease erratically. Also, you can hear the engine almost stall, but then pick itself back up. Is this normal?
I ordered Yokohama from tirerack.com. Saved $100 compared to those from tire dealers. they are pretty good. tirerack.com can ship the tires directly to the repairshop/garage you choose (they have a list of venders)
Thanks for the responses! I know that the A/C will cause the engine to speed up, but it concerns me that after the increase in RPM, the engines slows way down almost to the point of it stalling.
Comments
Now I'll let you know, I drive my truck at 80+mph sometimes towing a 1500-5000lb trailer. I pretty much squeeze every ounce of performance out of my truck 95% of the time. So 1Q ever 1000 miles for me is not a problem.
I wouldn't let it comsume me.
-mike
Now your old man style has been clarified to mean -"I usually drive on highways (25 miles each way), my cruising speed is about 75MPH (2700 RPM)". That is like no old man I know of unless or course you are in the left lane with your blinker on the whole trip :-).
I readily admit the whole oil usage thing is frustrating and a mystery as there is clearly no definitive cause let alone cure. I still stand behind my theory that a dirty egr, pcv . . .etc. cannot help this situation. No doubt the factory too could be involved. But it does make me wonder how (let alone why) they could be assembling some engines and not others as oil burners all these years.
Like I said I don't have the answer only some thoughts that others are more than free to disagree with.
-mike
I am trying to ramp up for a big family vacation, and car problems with a vehicle with 30K on it is quite frustrating. I realize these are relatively minor issues, but I have burned 12 personal hours on this and 1/2 a vacation day so far. I am going to have to burn another 1/2 vacation day this week. Very annoying. I am toying with getting rid of this truck...I really enjoy driving it, but I cannot have these kind of headaches.
I need some quality time with my truck so I can once again feel good about owning it. If I have a problem on vacation I am pretty sure I will be dumping it.
I think I know what happened. I got a CEL and they probably just assumed all the codes were related to the IMG and not real. So anything else like the EGR valve, solenoid, etc probably just got reset and thought to be caused by the other problem.
I didn't realize that some of these Troopers burn 1 qt per 1000 miles! I know that a previous poster mentioned an aux. oil cooler helping. It might be worth trying.
Once I get more settled in at work, I'm gonna see about bringing it to the dealer about the oil problem. My biggest concern is that they'll pull the old 1Q/1000miles is within spec, and then they'll say "well you have the big [non-permissible content removed] bumper, bigger tires, trailer hitch, etc" so we won't cover it under warranty.
-mike
I drove home and this time I didn't get a CEL 5 minutes after leaving...Ahhhh it is nice to drive my truck again. It will take a little time to get some confidence back to take it more than 10 miles from home. I think I will make a road trip somewhere this weekend.
That would be pretty outlandish of them to make that kind of an observation... :0)
I have heard that if you get a CEL, the very first thing you should check is your gas cap.
I asked my service rep..."do you think I would buy a car from here? Would you?" I got "I understand your frustration".
The truck is barely 2 yrs old, with 31K, and I don't think the paint should be peeling!
Thanks!
I just had my IMG replaced and had the same symptoms. It took until I got a check engine light with the specific codes for the dealer to acknowledge it. It only took about 2 weeks from first symptom to being bad enough to register on the computer.
Have you had a shop look at it?
this car was in that shop countless times, mostly with serious stuff. the also had GUTS to ask us if we'd want to buy another Trooper from them... this was last year... also the same crap about understanding our frustration. yeah, right. another POS Trooper. No wonder Isuzu is in deep .... !
However, statistically, the Trooper is an very reliable vehicle. As usual, your mileage may vary.
-mike
If you are the Viktoria that was posting here before you have absolutely the worst experience of any Trooper owner I have ever read about with your dealer and your Trooper.
In any event here's wishing you good luck in the future.
results: they replaced spark plugs (I think this was unnecessary since per manual it supposed to have platinum spark plugs that should last up to 100K mi), also 'cleaned' 'carbon deposits' from EGR channel (?) and intake manifold (?). $370. I have a strong suspicion that above are neither the sources of the problem nor cleaning them will solve anything.
2 years left to pay for POS.
BF/Goodrich Open Trail T/A
Michelin Cross Terrain
Dunlop Rover T/A
Continental Contitrac
On another subject. Concerning dealers, I use Century Isuzu in Huntsville, AL. I have NEVER had a problem with warranty work and they roll out the red carpet every time I go there. They also service and sell Buicks, BMWs and Volvos. If it was Century Isuzu, Kia, Hyundai it might be a different story...
I really would like to get the Michelins but will probably go for the BF/Goodrich Open Trail T/A. Sam's club has them for $80. The Michelins are at least $50 more
What about Yokohama Geolanders? They seem reasonably priced. Any opinions on them?
Heck, I might take the Bridgestones off my wife's Rodeo, put them on my car and get her the Michelins.
I'm usually not a cheapskate on cars but with 3 kids, private school, dance lessons, Chuck-E-Cheeze, it adds up quick...
I have a 2001 Trooper S. I love the keyless entry, but could do without some of the anti-theft features like: being unable to lock my doors with remote while a door is open without the alarm going off, or reaching inside an open window and pressing the door unlock buttons without the alarm going off.
Does anyone know if I can disable the "alarm" part of this system but still leave the keyless entry features intact?
-Kevin
-mike
I don't know too much about bike racks, logic tells me that racks with two arms would be more stable than one like the nashbar. Anybody able to vouch or recommend another?
A friend of mine uses a similar one from Valley on his Accura SVX, but with a spare tire cover installed, it won't fit on the Trooper.
Dunno where you are, but if you are in the D.C. area, I'd be glad to let you try it on your vehicle.
-mike
thanks for the offer, but I'm in St. Louis. Couple of questions though.
On the Nashbar, did you need an extension bar?
Are the bikes fairly stable on the one arm?
Does it fold down without detaching allowing access to door?
Paisan-
You are far more the adventurer than I. I think I will leave my spare cover on, although it is tempting, but I believe my '02 has a non-alloy spare.
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
It's 2.5 inch square steel. It's more than strong enough.
The bikes are fairly stable, but, like I said, a two point mount would probably be more stable.
Yes, it does fold down, but loaded with four bikes, you couldn't do it.
-mike
Now that summer is here again I brought it back to the dealer and everything checks out fine with the computers and they can't find a problem or recreate it.
Any ideas?
http://www.graberproducts.com/article/article_control.asp?nextFor- m=fDetailArticle&originForm=fDetailArticle&id=228&cla- ss=8&push=originForm%3DfDetailCategory%08nextForm%3DfAssociat- edArticle%08id%3D71%08class%3D8%08bctitle%3DRelated+Products
I have 2 types of racks. A Thule roof rack with fork mount carriers for my Trooper and a hitch mounted Thule for my MDX. I prefer the roof rack over the hitch mount. When the bikes are attached on the roof rack they are on and don't move around. The only drawback is having to hoist the bikes up to the roof.
I use the tilt back hitch mount for the MDX because it is hard to get bikes on top of any SUV and the MDX is my wife's car. The bikes move around a lot on the hitch mount and it is a pain to get in and out of the rear (even though the tilt feature is very easy).
Outdoorsports.com carries a lot of different racks and is very affordable, if not the best pricing you can find on the web.
-mike