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Comments
-mike
Your thought are greatly appreciated.
Sam
Then, perhaps its the way the Trooper is broken in, or maybe its the frequency of oil change, or maybe even type of oil used. I use ordinary 10W30 and mostly Havoline or Quaker State. Never had a drop of Synthetic in my Trooper and my engine uses little oil.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=376496&BQ=jcw2&a- mp;TID=190003945GM0803
..
Experiment: drive really light on engine demand and see if your oil burning rate reduces.
-mike
There is a break-in schedule in the owners manual.
1)Since the fronts were done I hear a scraping, clicking sound from the right front area when braking at low speed . When maneuvering in a parking lot I hear like "click, click, crunch, crunch" whenever I put the brakes on with the wheels turned at an angle. The noise is most common on very hot days - over the winter I don't hear it at all. Sometimes I open the passenger window in a parking lot to hear it but nothing, but then as summer comes, the noise comes too. I had the Isuzu dealer check it out twice, but they say there is nothing loose or wrong with the brakes. I am wondering if it could relate to the rotors being turned down too much and the stock clips or springs holding the pads being little loose since they were designed for a thicker (when new) rotor. When it is cold out the lube firms up and keeps the clips from moving about. When it is hot everything gets more fluid and the clips move - hence noise. Any thoughts on any part of this issue?
2) I have a very steep hill in my area and every time I drive down this hill and start braking to stop at the bottom I get a loud and very disarming scraping noise from the rear of the vehicle. I sounds like I picked up a tree branch and it is dragging. The noise is kind of cyclical like it is related to something rotating. The first time it happened (almost 2 years ago) I got out and checked the whole underneath, then when I went home I went underneath and tapped and shook anything I could find - but nothing loose. Once I stop at the bottom of that hill and take off again the noise is forever gone until the next time I come down that one very steep hill. I can drive around for 6-7 months and hear nothing back there, then the once I have to go that route, as sure as anything I know, the noise happens again - yesterday was one of those times.
It just occurred to me that it could be the emergency brakes. I thing they are drums, and if neglected and the shoes and/or linings disintegrate maybe there's a lot of loose lining material floating around inside of the drum unit that only starts acting up when the vehicle assumes this really severe down hill angle. Again, any thoughts, etc. would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
-mike
There is a break-in schedule in the owners manual.
From my earlier post: "Had the original rear brakes done (pads, rotor cutting) at 88K.." Yeah, I know the rear service brakes are disc. You say the rear emergency brake is a drum-in-disc.
This is what I meant (though not probably clearly expressed) in my comment: "It just occurred to me that it could be the emergency brakes. I think they are drums..."
Any thoughts how I can access the drum part of the disc-in-drum unit?
Thank you
I'm not sure how you access them, you think it might be dragging?
-mike
Well worth the <$100 for them and 1/2hr. install.
In 2 weeks I get my 919 OME Coils in the rear, 1" spacers, OME shocks, and front ball-joint spacers
Also looking for opinions on tires, narrowed it down to 285-75-16 Bridgestone Dueler Revos v. BFG ATKOs, any opinions, the price on both are close enough to not matter.
-mike
No, I chalk this one up to a design or manufacturing defect.
Tom
I'm not sure why the burn, so far I've got close to 1000 miles on my Castrol 10-40 synthetic w/o losing any yet. Keeping my fingers crossed.
-mike
PS: Most of those miles are towing 5300lbs @ 65-75mph!
I would check to see if you can get weight specifications per tire. the 75 series are LT and may be a lot heavier or less depending on brand. That is one detail I would check.
Costco twice a year has good prices on Michelins, and the ones I put on my wife's Sienna have been flawless, smooth, quiet, grippy (add your positive adjective here, can't repeat it too often, they're that good).
Any reason to believe I'd be unhappy with a Michelin SUV tire?
KarenS "CR-V Owners: Problems & Solutions" Sep 2, 2003 9:07am
A thought...
I had my service guy take it on his lunch break, because running it in the garage didn't yield the desired effects. Sure enough after driving it more than 15 minutes it shutdown on him.
Good luck.
here is a link to the beginning of the problem:
viktoria_r Jun 11, 2003 1:00pm
My gasket issue would cause the cars idle to bounce a few times and then stall outright after a while. There was no issue while driving, only while stopped.
www.alldata.com - I believe this is it?
SB00-01-S005 APR 00 Intake Manifold Gasket - MIL ON/DTC's Set
-mike
-mike
-mike
I hear that the Bridgestones also have a 3 year replacement warranty for road hazzard w/o a mileage requirement. That might put me over the edge for those tires.
-mike
I expect these tires will provide another 40k miles of good life, which will make me a very happy camper. If only I could get our Trooper to stop burning oil...
-mike
The break-in history of ours is unknown - we bought truck @ 7k miles; it was a corporate Isuzu vehicle before that. Oil weight and dino/synthetic have all been varied but nothing has slowed the increased consumption rate.
Our truck is driven pretty gently - rarely above 4,000 RPMs, no towing, no offroading, rarely above 75 MPH, plenty of longer highway trips, etc.
Consumption rate seems steady regardless of whether current oil is fresh or has 3k miles on it.
I've never let the truck get more than a quart low, but burning a quart every 800 miles means I must remember to check it every 3-4 days to prevent it getting half a quart low.
My approach to tires is, if there's plenty of tread, wear is even, and everything looks right externally (no bumps, gouges, etc.) then there's no reason to replace 'em. Our minivan tires are starting to show their age at 26k miles, and they will probably be replaced by 35-40k even though they'll probably have some usable tread as defined by the tire manufacturers. I'm definitely NOT somebody who pushes the limit and squeezes every last ounce of usefulness from a set of tires.
I was cautiously optimistic that these Michelins would yield 80k miles, and after getting halfway there I think it will happen. Pretty decent per-mile cost, figuring $450 for the set of 4. Probably should have traded the unused OEM Dueler 684 for a 5th new Michelin, but didn't.
I've got a set of LT 285-75 Cooper S/T tires.
On Road: They are noisy compared to an all terrain tire, but handle great for a mud tire. Gas mileage has suffered (about 3 MPG).
Off Road: The off road traction is unbelievable. I have a 5-speed (non-TOD) and can run several trails in 2WD that required 4-high with my old Dueller A/T's.
I have experienced very little tread wear at 10K miles. The coopers have an extremely deep tread depth and a very aggressive tread pattern. I have always used Bridgestones in the past, but went with the Coopers this time based on price. So far I have been pleased.
Check out the specs below:
http://www.coopertires.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType=LtTr- - uck&id=190
Lee
1) I have had serious trouble keeping them balanced (which may or may not have anything to do with the tires).
2) They seem to be priced almost $50 more per tire than when I bought them two and a half years ago.
-mike
PS: Are you coming to uwharrie in Oct?
..
I have twice replaced tires that had good looking tread still on them. Once was because the side walls lost their shape and the tires were impossible to balance, they even made the steering wheel vibrate. The other time was when on a very cold morning on dry pavement I hit a jeep in front of me that had done a sudden stop, I had the distinct feeling that the tires did not grip very well at all. I did more sudden stops to prove it to myself then bought the Dueler H/Ls which stopped far better. When the Dueler H/Ls wore down to about 6/32 I changed them to the new at the time Revos which have been great since. The thing I like about the H/Ls and Revos is that the rubber gets softer as it wears and that is supposed to keep the traction better over the life of the tire at the expense of a shorter tread life. Give up some tread life for better performance is a good trade for me. The Revos have some technology that they say makes them rounder, I believe this because my Revos are balanced using the run out measureing balancer and the weights are just the smallest kind and one tire requires no balance weights at all.
-mike