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The Honda 3.5L engine from 1999-2002 or so, at least the one in the Odyssey which I believe is basically the same one in other Honda/Acura vehicles (e.g. Acura RL and MDX), is a SOHC, 24-valve unit. It made 205-210hp from '99-'01 in Ody, and was tweaked to 240hp for '02. It makes varying amounts of hp in other Honda/Acura vehicles.
I have never heard anything about GM buying a 3.5L engine from Honda. That doesn't make it untrue, but I have never heard that. I've heard about the newish 3.5L engine in the '04 Malibu. It makes 200hp. But I thought it was still an overhead valve design.
They are using the Honda motor.
Does 0 to 60 in under 8 seconds with that motor -if you're into that sort of thing.
From Edmunds:
"The big news this year is the replacement of the torquey but unrefined 3.0-liter V6 with a 3.5-liter V6 built by Honda. With 250 horsepower at the ready, the Vue is easily the fastest of the mini-utes for 2004."
Same basic motor as in the Honda Pilot and Acura MDX.
Looks like they are only gonna do the coilpack and my plugs ($200 is plugs including labor, the plugs alone are like $15, which I believe cause I paid $9/each from my distributor) They say the code for the cat isn't in there, so I said ok, no problem, when the CEL comes back on i'll bring it back for the cats cause I know the cat one was on before I messed with the coilpack...
-mike
250hp is a lot for a vehicle the size of the Vue.
-there is a G-sensor that "detects the vehicle deceleration rate", but i cannot figure out HOW it does that. _IF_ the G-sensor reads the speedometer, then tire size could (indirectly) affect the ABS. no idea how much, since were only talking a few MPH here.
-Each wheel has a sensor measuring whl speed. if a wheel's speed is near 0, ABS pulses the brake at that wheel. Regardless of what happens at other wheels. (Except in the rear which has only one hydrolic line feeding both RWs. if one RW is near 0, i think both brake sets pulse.)
-the chap that dreamed up ABS was quite a Mr. Clever-Drawers.
-mike
Disclaimer: I'm not an ABS engineer, and I don't even play one on TV. I'm just postulating here.
The system is activating and deactivating the brakes in milliseconds only when it detects a stopped (i.e. locked wheel). Hence the term antiLOCK. Presumably in the milliseconds that the brakes are off the system can detect if a given wheel starts spinning again. If it detects such movement it continues to pulse the brakes. When no spinning is detected in the brakes off mode the system knows the car is stopped.
No doubt in a true sheet ice situation, brakes of any kind are only as good as the tire grip or lack thereof.
1) the wh sensors can take a reading and
2) g-sens reads a sharp enough decel to alert the ABS computer.
-shop book doesn't say what speed the ABS system en-gages or dis-. some troubleshooting procedures call out a 12mph (20 km/h) threshold on certain tests. about the 10mph that mike guessed. (but, if your ABS activates under 10mph, i aint gon' call ya a liar.)
-BTW, mike, i discovered that there are separate g-sensors for the ABS and the air bags. (SRS-in dash; ABS-under center console.) probably that way in case one G-Sens goes bad. it'd only affect one safety system. FWIW.
-getting back to the original issue...
it doesn't appear that tire size would confuse the ABS system.
-mike
SUV PRODUCT PLANNING
**Manager, Product Planning & Analysis** (RIS-01-04)
Position Location: Cerritos, CA
Develops and implements near-term product plans of Japan and U.S. developed vehicles to meet the needs of ISZA, ISZA dealers, and the U.S. market. Product plans encompass design, features, content, pricing, information and ordering guides.
Thanks Chuck
K-O-T
On another note, test drove my first Trooper the other day. Had to go 400 miles to get to it, then once i got there, found out it was not a 2002 LS as advertised, but actually a 2001 S. I was extremly pissed off with this. Drove it anyways and sneered and snickered at every remark the salesman made during the drive. Told me he had some others and i said no thanks and left.
Has anyone had a problem with the engine consuming less then the 15 mpg of gas in the city as stated per manual? What kind of mileage everyone getting? And does anyone want to address the oil guzzling situation a little more, does it mean a bad engine i should be aware of?
AND (know you must be tired by now) i have read posts about a problem with the engine reving and taking off while stopped and the engine loosing power/acceleration while on long drives when you try to accelerate. Is this a recurring problem, or is there a fix that cures this and that is that?
Many Trooper engines consume oil. Not all of them, and not usually to excess, but many of them do consume oil. I use about a quart every 2K, regardless of what I do.
I have never heard of uncontrolled engine revving from a stop or losing power on a long trip. Of course, there are all sorts of things that can go wrong with any sophisticated engine system.
How can an inline Honda 4 cyl engine be basically the same engine as the V6 in the Odessey?
200+ HP from a 4 cyl is not all that much any more. From a normally aspirated 4 cyl it's a lot, but Subaru is getting close to 300 HP from their heavily turbocharged flat four.
I get around town at 17mpg, but my around town is 60% at 45mph 30% at 35 mph and 10% sitting at lights. In winter I get less maybe 15 mpg to 16 mpg around town. Highway at 65mph is 21mpg, 72mph is 19mpg subtract 1mpg for winter temperatures or winter mix fuel or whatever it is that makes winter mpg lower.
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"Oil Guzzling" is a problem with every car company. Most have a rule than consuming < 1 quart per 1000 miles is acceptable. Most people don't change their own oil and they won't know about their oil consumption unless it is so bad that the oil idiot light comes on, hence the recommended oil change every 3000 miles before the light comes on. I have owned 3 Troopers and the firt one, a 1984 used 1 quart / 1000 miles and a fought to have that repaired and was told it is acceptable, that engine drove me 201K miles and was still running strong when sold. My other two Troopers since, a 1995 and a 2001 seem to use no noticeable oil at all, unless I am driving really hard, when the 1995 used 0.5 quarts per 1000 miles pulling a 4000# trailer 70+ mph a long distance on hot summer days.
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I use synthetic oil. I think dino oil is adequate for 3000 mile oil changes to go 200K miles without trouble as I did on the 1984 Trooper. I believe that the synthetic oils do provide better lubrication over a wider temperature range and so I began using it when I started towing and have stayed with it since.
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I think it is best to stick with one oil brand to eliminate the posible interactions between different additives. I add no additional oil additives ever to the oil.
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I can't answer for the revving problem, never had any such problem.
I have never heard of this, either...you gotta stop hanging out at ITOG! ;-)
Steve, Host
I really appreciate your help.
The answer may be to use only one of the antenna leads OR put in an aftermarket antenna.
The sticking point is that there is an amplifier IN the antenna lead somewhere. There should be a powered wire to operate the amplifier. If you have a power antenna lead from the new radio, it may hook up to the amp lead and power it appropriately. I recall reading this, don't know the correctness of this suggestion. I recall most have had no/poor FM function otherwise.
Hope it works.
-mike
I am surprised no one here has heard of the revving and other problem i mentioned. I went on NHTSA under complaints and found a couple of problems, this was one i noticed. Check it out, it's quite interesting. Definitly good that no ones heard of it though.
The Anniversary package is basically the Limited without the sunroof, compass, outside temperature indicator, barometer, and altimeter. Also different wheels.
As to resale/buying used, I don't think the Anniversary Package adds much $$. It is still an LS not a Limited.
-mike
Thank you for your help. I really appreciate it.
I'll try it as Paisan & Foreman1063 mentioned above this weekend. Again, Thank you.
When I get back from VA next week, hopefully the CEL for the cats will be back on and they can fix that when I bring it in for the Transfer case next week.
Nice touch they did wash it and nearly detailed it for me, got out some of the heavy scratches from when I got whacked in the side over a year ago. I was pretty impressed by that
-mike
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/409927
Is it really true when you get old that the music gets too loud and the wheels start looking bigger?
I think I'll stick with my stock rims, they look better than that crap and are paid for!
Last week, my company agreed to lease a company car for me, and the first thing that came to mind was a Trooper. Since I will be working with clients, I would like to find a Limited, but so far no luck. Does anyone have stats on how many Limited Trooper as a percentage of production were made? or experience with searching for a Limited?
btw, Isuzu could make better those "wooden" interior panels . It is not itself.
Makaye, the Trooper looks like a carriage and no pair
Advice: do this when you don't need to drive the truck for at least a few hours, and leave the windows down. I made the mistake of spraying WD-40 while at a destination 2 hours from home, and it was fairly nauseating to drive 2 hours back home with a strong scent of WD-40 in the cabin.
Try here:
http://www.differentials.com/diagnose.html
And here:
http://www.ring-pinion.com/tech/techg0198.html
Here is a good blow-up of a rear diffy (pinion bearing is #25).
http://www.web-masters.com/gms/rear_axle.html
It can also be bad wheel bearings, especially if heard around corners vs. straight line though i'd wager the former.