If you don't have the shocks already, check out the possibility of these Rancho RS9000X. $250.00 isn't too bad, you could probably go to the store and get the same deal w/free installation. http://www.4wheelparts.com/
Today I encountered the first problem on my 99 44K Trooper. It has begun to wander on the road and the steering seems sloppy compared to before. Even my wife noticed it as a passenger.
I am thinking to adjust the steering box tomorrow by raising the front end off the ground and adjusting the nut so that the steering is firm---but not too stiff. While the Trooper is raised, I'll also check the wheels for wobble.
Am I on the right track folks? Anything else needing checking?
So there I was Friday afternoon, washing my 2001 LS, and I noticed a small paint bubble on the rear bumper. Ohhh-kay. Then I noticed a small series of bumps and RUST TINTED paint on the edge of the sunroof. Didn't Isuzu prime after the sunroof cut? Anyway, since I'm still (barely) in bumper-to-bumper, they're apparently going to job out the roof (3-4 days; no loaner) under warranty, but no go on the rear bumper. Anyone else have a roof rust issue?
No rust for me. For the past 5 years, my truck has been exposed to the worst substance know to man...SALT! I drive 60 miles a day up and down the coast, then park for 9 hours at San Diego bay during salty foggy conditions, you can actually see a film on the windows. The stuff gets into everything, It's ruined my aftermarket polished aluminum wheels, but no rust anywhere on the vehicle. I thought Isuzu did a very good job of finishing the materials, on mine at least. Maybe your gasket was improperly sealed from the factory and it let water in?
The stuff on the bumper could be from the locking mechanism on the spare tire cover leaking onto it. Is thier rust on anything that could drip onto the bumper?
If your Troop is wandering both left & right, I would make sure your tie-rod ends & other suspension & steering components are in good order, including tires. My OEM Duelers developed a bad belt in the carcass which caused my wandering problems, among other things, until I replaced them with new tires, Bstone Revo A/T's, - alignment was spec on at 36k. Adjusting the steering box will not necessarily cure this problem & may cause other steering issues if not adjusted properly - make very small adjustments to the screw. FWIW, I've only had to adjust 1 recirculating ball steering box ever & that was in my old '59 Triumph TR-3A back in the 60's. If your tires are good, I would first check the tie-rods & wheel bearings for any play.
My Trooper may not be wandering as bad as I thought. Yesterday there were a lot of strong winds blowing, and that might have been responsible for the wandering feeling on the road. It was hard to tell driving 65-70 mph across flat country.
About adjusting the steering box, I did that on my 86 Trooper with good results. It had about 140K miles on it at the time. I may not have done it right, but I raised the front wheels off the ground, and then tightened the steering box screw back and forth until it felt right. (Of course, I loosened the nut before turning the screw.) Too much tightning caused the steering wheel to stiften and be hard to turn, while too loose and the wheel felt sloppy. Anyway, I was very satisfied with the result. I drove that Trooper about 50K after that with no problems.
Thanks very much for the good ideas guys. I'll check for wheel play and for ball joint damage. I'll probably opt for an alignment and new tires if that proves necessary.
You guys with 98' or 99' Troopers, that haven't had a spark plug change yet, BEWARE!! If you've got that many years on it and 50-60K miles you may be too late.
I proceeded to change mine on my 99' Troop this weekend, and it was not pretty. The plugs were seized in place, and it was touch and go to get them out. They looked pretty bad even though I only have 59000 miles on them. The center tip was pretty much gone and the gap had widened to about .080 inch. The threads pulled some material as they were backed out of the hole. I looked down in the well after the plug was out and saw metal dust near the edge of the plug hole. I vacuumed that stuff out before inserting new plugs. All plugs eventually came out, but it was scarry hearing that metal 'squeek' as the turned. It was evident there was some edge taken off the thread of the plug after it was removed. Thank goodness none of them galled to the point of not coming out! I thought the one by the brake booster was there to stay.
I went back with platinum NGK's with a good coat of never-seize on the threads. They all tightened down OK with about the same amount of torque being applied, and the engine ran like a top when I got finished with it. Seems to be stronger than ever, nearly as strong feeling as my 01' 2WD.
The serpentine belt change was a snap! took about 7 minutes to get the old one off and the new one on!
I'm gonna pull a plug on my 01' soon and see what kind of condition its in. I'm curious to see what the threads on its plugs look and act like as they are removed. It has 31000 miles on it already so the seize may have already taken hold.
I don't see any way the original plugs can last 100K miles, and if they weren't taken out until then, forget it, they wouldn't be coming out!
Yeah, that's why I changed mine every 30K. Plugs are cheap...until they seize in the block and break off when you try to pull them. Glad you were able to get them out!
I tried to change mine after 65K. Big mistake. I didn't have problems getting the plugs out, however I ripped at least 1 boot when trying to get the coil-on-plug boots off. I ponied up the $ to get the dealer to do them so if they broke them, they could pay the $75/coil-boot to replace. I will do them myself every 30K from here out now that I know the boots are broken free
Also did the serpentine belt. Took about 7 min as well. Super easy. I will carry an extra one for the road just in case in the future.
My originals I had done by the dealer in the mid 90K's. If it was a problem, they did not say anything. A ho-hum event in my case. Do yourself a favor, pay the $ and let the tech do it.
Just passing along some info that some might not be aware of. Don't try to remove plugs in an Aluminum head while it's warm, the thermal expansion/contraction is different in both materials. The plug will be expanded longer than the head, you can pull threads out doing this.
Always use Anti-Sieze on Aluminum heads. From the Edelbrock site "When installing spark plugs into all Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads, be sure to use anti-seize thread lubricant at all times". http://edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html
Not sure the safe way, people said to twist the wires and work em loose sideways. No use on mine, they tore anyway. I'm guessing there is a tool that would reach down and pull it up over the plugs. Not sure though. I'm going to try to pull mine off in about 10K miles and see if they come off easily, if they don't in about 40K I'll just fork over the $ to get the dealer to do it.
Just sold our '01 Trooper S. Had it for one year and 13k miles of trouble-free driving. It was my wife's car, and she just never "fell in love with it". I, on the other hand, feel like I just took my dog out and shot it.
For reference, it was an '01 S with 37k, 2WD, burgundy, brand new tires, hidden hitch, step bars, and Monroe Reflex shocks. No oil consumption, ran like a top, never had any trouble whatsoever. Sold it for $11,000 to a neighbor.
My wife is now driving an '02 Eddie Bauer Explorer. She really wanted leather and a 3rd row seat.
So it is with great regret that I bid farewell to this forum and all of you. Best of luck and happy driving. Maybe I'll see on on the Infiniti or Explorer boards.
I thought I was going to ruin one of my coil boots during removal as well. I had done the twist, twist, pull and twist thing, but that wasn't working. I thought if I turned it completely around it would break the seal and come right off. WRONG!! It still didn't want to come out. Finally after several twists and pulling it came out looking like a cork screw! I was sure it would be damaged, but it seems to be working just fine!
I changed my plugs with the engine cold, and still had the seizing problems. The plug threads appeared to be rusty, not just discolored due to heat. I'm not sure compression gases might have been getting up around them some way. I'm sure proud no threads were completely pulled, requiring a helicoil or head repair. I did apply a smudge of anti-seize to the rubber boot interior where the plug ceramic will meet it. Maybe that will prevent the seizing of the rubber for future replacements. I don't think there is a tool that could assist in getting the rubber boots off. There isn't enough space between the coil, boot and the head well to get anything in there to assist in the removal.
I have read some about these on other threads but can't find any references here. I am looking to tow a boat this summer and feel the rear needs firming. Has anyone had experience with these?
I put in air-lift airbags in the rear. Other than having the tubes pop off due to the bad clamps. They slipped right into the coils and took about 1hr to install. Cost was $70-100 IIRC. Well worth it as I tow 5000lbs on a regular basis with my trooper. Shoot me an e-mail or what not if you want some followup on it.
Paisan...thanks! I saw one post where you referred to air bags and planned to ask you about them. I always thought the installation for those was complicated...will email for details.
Reviewing posts saw quite a few references to the Revos. I replaced orig. GY Wrangler AP tires last summer with the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos stock size form Tirerack. I can report great improvement now that I have a Chicago winter under my belt with them. I believe the improvement was much more than just new tire vs worn as well.
I also replaced OEM shocks with KYB MonoMax and have been very pleased with the switch. I now wonder if I should have gone with the adjust. as I will be towing a boat soon, but we'll see.
I also bought the poly bushing upgrade but have yet to get around to installing as the schocks made such a difference.
Finally, I installed the Yakima Q rack system which is removable to carry a cartop luggage carrier. It worked perfectly w/ only a slight increase in noise (no wind deflector). It was easy to adjust and attach. I got a good deal at Galyans. Mileage did suffer a bit.
That's about it...any Timbren comments still appreciated: Ease of install, ride change, etc.
Yup it was quite simple, just stick the bag into the springs when they are uncompressed, and rout the hosing.
Tires: Just replacing mine now. At 20K I replaced the stockers with Pirelli Scorpion ATs in 275-70-16. I just turned 72K miles and the tread is a bit thin in the centers (I ran them a hair too inflated) but otherwise they are still working well. I just feel at 52K miles on the tires it's time to replace them. I was gonna get the revos, but couldn't justify spending over $100 extra to get them v. the Pirellis.
I am considering removing all the badging from my trooper...including the painted decal the dealer put on it. Is there any special technique or chemical recommended for taking off the badging and the pin-stripe like decal the dealer put on?
OK couldn't resist, Sean I did this a year or so ago. First get a plastic putty knife (the kind that are real sharp on one edge) also get Goo Gone, the stuff is amazing. You will need White polishing compound to rub the areas out, because under the letters will be darker than the rest of the truck.
On my 99' Performance pkg. the lettering was made from a thick foam type material, which is good (easy to take off). You could actually use your fingernail to do it, but it will be pretty sore for the next couple of days (that's how I did mine).
Apply the Goo gone to the top of the letters and let it soak in for a couple of minutes. Then carefully slide the putty knife under the letters and remove. Then you can use a little more Goo Gone to remove the existing adhesive (you will have an outline of where it used to be). It probably wouldn't hurt to apply heat to it also, but I did it without.
The painted decal might be harder. I've seen people that have removed it and it leaves a raised image where it used to be. But you could try the White polishing compound on that too.
Next, take the spare tire cover off leaving the spare five spoker exposed, and wait for many to comment on how nice your Jeep Liberty is!
Copy and paste from my FAQ website (I would post a link but when I post it the Edmund moderators delete my posts). Which is too bad since there is 22 pages of FAQ's.
How do I clean the EGR: (CEL code: P0401)
1 : Remove the EGR valve there are 2 holes the larger one is the one that supplies exhaust, flow don’t worry about it. The other is a vacuum port this is where exhaust gases are directed when the EGR valve opens, carbon deposits stick to the walls of the vacuum port and in time will restrict flow normally about 30,000 miles.
2: Check your local dealer for Intake cleaner ask about BG products all you will need is the intake cleaner (spray can), or head to your local parts place and pick up a can or carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors, find something to plug the larger hole make sure it will not vibrate and fall out there will be slight exhaust pressure on it but not much just be sure it is plugged real well because if not you may be surprised by a flame. Once plugged start the vehicle, spray intake cleaner into the vacuum port you may have to raise the idle to do or just open the throttle by hand spray until the can is empty.
3 : check your EGR valve push the pintle on the bottom be sure it moves in and out freely if not clean it don’t replace the valve once the pintle moves as it should reinstall the EGR valve disconnect battery for a few minutes or have code cleared.
Here is my own write up:
First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.
I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake and place it above the TB.
So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1, and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in the butterfly to let it air out.
Next I removed the egr, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the egr itself. I sprayed down the inside of the egr and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the egr tube and the hole next to it, and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the egr sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.
Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing. I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10 seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light! NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once! Just a little FYI, +98 Isuzu have a solenoid to activate the sprung pintel in the EGR. The pintel is what gets carboned up, and needs to be cleaned. Diaphram EGR's, are actuated by vacuum lines to the EGR. Many mechanics are not use to this new solenoid activated EGR and assume that when there is a fault code, it is a bad diaphram.
Use a hairdryer to loosen up the glue then you should be able to peel it off with a plastic knife or other plastic-wedge-like item. Use the goo-gone afterward to remove any adhesive left over.
What would be the symptoms of a bad driveshaft?? I took my Troop to the dealer for a drivetrain inspection since I'm at 59900 miles and he says I have a bad driveshaft. It had to be ordered, and will be replaced under the drivetrain warranty.
Who carees what the symptoms are...it's under warranty! Whoo hoo! Just kidding.
Unless the driveshaft is bent or elsewise damaged physically, there isn't a lot that could be 'bad.' Don't think a bent driveshaft would be a warranty though.
Could be the journals / yokes where the U-joint bearings attach to the driveshaft are worn or damaged. Also, the spline that attaches from the driveshaft and front yoke / coupler to the transmission could be damaged. If anything was damaged, worn, or bent, you would feel a significant vibration at speed - maybe a clunking at lower speed. I think people who get a lot of clunking when they stop, the fix is the dealer 'lubes' the front spline. Perhaps the spline is worn.
Then there is the front driveshaft, which I think is CV joints - not sure if those are rebuildable on a Trooper?
Usually it is bad U-joints, but that (likely) wouldn't need to be ordered.
Suffice to say, i have owned my 2001 Trooper S with 34,128 miles for 2 days now; and i am completly in love with it. But here we go, i have questions, questions, questions, and if anyone is bored or has time to spare i would appreciate there knowledge on these subjects. 1) I can't for the life of me figure out my 4x4, i understand the TOD, basically AWD i guess. But i can't figure out how to shift into just regular 4x4 High, only the 4x4 low i can do which i know you push the lever as far to your radio as you can. Is there not actually a 4x4 high for when you just want all four wheels engaged instead of TOD? It's an automatice tranny by the way. 2) Like i said, it's a 2001, with 34,128 miles. I have about 3 months, or 16,000 miles left on warranty, and i am still very new with my trooper. I hear noises and feel vibrations that i am not sure if they are normal or not. I want to take it in to have it looked at before i leave my bumper to bumper warranty. I have no isuzu dealers around at all. So who honors my warranty, and what should i ask them to do and what kind of price should i expect? 3) just installed after market stereo, someone asked about the antenae and another mentioned IIRC?? and something mentioned what to do about the blue wire. Help! I've installed plenty of friends stereos, but nothing like this. and explain this box i found under the front passenger seat. Looks like an amp or something? 4) Lastly, i know i asked before and i am sorry, but i need tires bad, the noise while driving is horrible, i certainly hope it's the tires, otherwise i have a whole nother problem on my hands. Discount tire said it had about 2 or 3 months, just by looking you can tell they have to go. I need something quiet on the highway and roads, that will still give me a smooth drive and still some traction for winter. Oh yeah, i don't like paying 120 or 130 for a tire either. 4) Lastly it's got an oil change just done, and serpentine belt just changed what should i do for the engine, saw some stuff about spark plugs, clean some kind of EGR valve or something . . . got a 2,500 mile trip ahead and want her purring.
Sorry it's so long here folks, just know that i can get good, real answers here and i need them, and other suggestions if you got'em are cool. Thanks in advance
Well there is never a case where all 4 wheels will turn. Neither 4-low nor 4-hi.
TOD is AWD + 4-High all rolled into 1. 4-Low is low range with a 50/50 lock between the front and rear driveshafts.
On the stereos you hook the power antenna wire up to the 2nd wire of the antenna harness. It has an amplifier for the in-glass antenna that works off the power antenna lead on the head unit.
Tires run in the $100-120 range I'd guess. Not sure what ones to suggest for on-road. I like my Pirelli Scorpion ATs
Ok, on the back on my after market stereo harness i have one blue wire, (power antenna/amplifier wire) and on the back of the head unit where antenna from the car plugs in. The trooper has two antenna's to be plugged in it looks like. One fits the back of my radio, while the other antenna plug is slightly smaller. Are you saying to cut the tip off of the smaller plug and wire it to my blue wire, and that will give me full use of the in-glass antenna's "amplifier"? Is that the box i am seeing under the front passenger seat? I only got a quick look but thought it was some kind of amplifier, i could be completly wrong though.
Comments
If you don't have the shocks already, check out the possibility of these Rancho RS9000X. $250.00 isn't too bad, you could probably go to the store and get the same deal w/free installation. http://www.4wheelparts.com/
dave
I am thinking to adjust the steering box tomorrow by raising the front end off the ground and adjusting the nut so that the steering is firm---but not too stiff. While the Trooper is raised, I'll also check the wheels for wobble.
Am I on the right track folks? Anything else needing checking?
-mike
-mike
The stuff on the bumper could be from the locking mechanism on the spare tire cover leaking onto it. Is thier rust on anything that could drip onto the bumper?
Adjusting the steering box will not necessarily cure this problem & may cause other steering issues if not adjusted properly - make very small adjustments to the screw. FWIW, I've only had to adjust 1 recirculating ball steering box ever & that was in my old '59 Triumph TR-3A back in the 60's. If your tires are good, I would first check the tie-rods & wheel bearings for any play.
About adjusting the steering box, I did that on my 86 Trooper with good results. It had about 140K miles on it at the time. I may not have done it right, but I raised the front wheels off the ground, and then tightened the steering box screw back and forth until it felt right. (Of course, I loosened the nut before turning the screw.) Too much tightning caused the steering wheel to stiften and be hard to turn, while too loose and the wheel felt sloppy. Anyway, I was very satisfied with the result. I drove that Trooper about 50K after that with no problems.
Thanks very much for the good ideas guys. I'll check for wheel play and for ball joint damage. I'll probably opt for an alignment and new tires if that proves necessary.
I proceeded to change mine on my 99' Troop this weekend, and it was not pretty. The plugs were seized in place, and it was touch and go to get them out. They looked pretty bad even though I only have 59000 miles on them. The center tip was pretty much gone and the gap had widened to about .080 inch. The threads pulled some material as they were backed out of the hole. I looked down in the well after the plug was out and saw metal dust near the edge of the plug hole. I vacuumed that stuff out before inserting new plugs. All plugs eventually came out, but it was scarry hearing that metal 'squeek' as the turned. It was evident there was some edge taken off the thread of the plug after it was removed. Thank goodness none of them galled to the point of not coming out! I thought the one by the brake booster was there to stay.
I went back with platinum NGK's with a good coat of never-seize on the threads. They all tightened down OK with about the same amount of torque being applied, and the engine ran like a top when I got finished with it. Seems to be stronger than ever, nearly as strong feeling as my 01' 2WD.
The serpentine belt change was a snap! took about 7 minutes to get the old one off and the new one on!
I'm gonna pull a plug on my 01' soon and see what kind of condition its in. I'm curious to see what the threads on its plugs look and act like as they are removed. It has 31000 miles on it already so the seize may have already taken hold.
I don't see any way the original plugs can last 100K miles, and if they weren't taken out until then, forget it, they wouldn't be coming out!
Also did the serpentine belt. Took about 7 min as well. Super easy. I will carry an extra one for the road just in case in the future.
-mike
Dave
Always use Anti-Sieze on Aluminum heads. From the Edelbrock site "When installing spark plugs into all Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads, be sure to use anti-seize thread lubricant at all times". http://edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html
Finally, the product http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f- _call=get_item&item_no=09126
what is the safe way to remove the coil pack to change the sark plugs? Thank You.
Am I still boxtrooper with this new way to log in? Just a test for myself sorry about that.
-mike
For reference, it was an '01 S with 37k, 2WD, burgundy, brand new tires, hidden hitch, step bars, and Monroe Reflex shocks. No oil consumption, ran like a top, never had any trouble whatsoever. Sold it for $11,000 to a neighbor.
My wife is now driving an '02 Eddie Bauer Explorer. She really wanted leather and a 3rd row seat.
So it is with great regret that I bid farewell to this forum and all of you. Best of luck and happy driving. Maybe I'll see on on the Infiniti or Explorer boards.
I changed my plugs with the engine cold, and still had the seizing problems. The plug threads appeared to be rusty, not just discolored due to heat. I'm not sure compression gases might have been getting up around them some way. I'm sure proud no threads were completely pulled, requiring a helicoil or head repair. I did apply a smudge of anti-seize to the rubber boot interior where the plug ceramic will meet it. Maybe that will prevent the seizing of the rubber for future replacements. I don't think there is a tool that could assist in getting the rubber boots off. There isn't enough space between the coil, boot and the head well to get anything in there to assist in the removal.
http://www.timbren.com/
-mike
Reviewing posts saw quite a few references to the Revos. I replaced orig. GY Wrangler AP tires last summer with the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos stock size form Tirerack. I can report great improvement now that I have a Chicago winter under my belt with them. I believe the improvement was much more than just new tire vs worn as well.
I also replaced OEM shocks with KYB MonoMax and have been very pleased with the switch. I now wonder if I should have gone with the adjust. as I will be towing a boat soon, but we'll see.
I also bought the poly bushing upgrade but have yet to get around to installing as the schocks made such a difference.
Finally, I installed the Yakima Q rack system which is removable to carry a cartop luggage carrier. It worked perfectly w/ only a slight increase in noise (no wind deflector). It was easy to adjust and attach. I got a good deal at Galyans. Mileage did suffer a bit.
That's about it...any Timbren comments still appreciated: Ease of install, ride change, etc.
Tires: Just replacing mine now. At 20K I replaced the stockers with Pirelli Scorpion ATs in 275-70-16. I just turned 72K miles and the tread is a bit thin in the centers (I ran them a hair too inflated) but otherwise they are still working well. I just feel at 52K miles on the tires it's time to replace them. I was gonna get the revos, but couldn't justify spending over $100 extra to get them v. the Pirellis.
-mike
Thanks.
On my 99' Performance pkg. the lettering was made from a thick foam type material, which is good (easy to take off). You could actually use your fingernail to do it, but it will be pretty sore for the next couple of days (that's how I did mine).
Apply the Goo gone to the top of the letters and let it soak in for a couple of minutes. Then carefully slide the putty knife under the letters and remove. Then you can use a little more Goo Gone to remove the existing adhesive (you will have an outline of where it used to be). It probably wouldn't hurt to apply heat to it also, but I did it without.
The painted decal might be harder. I've seen people that have removed it and it leaves a raised image where it used to be. But you could try the White polishing compound on that too.
Next, take the spare tire cover off leaving the spare five spoker exposed, and wait for many to comment on how nice your Jeep Liberty is!
How do I clean the EGR: (CEL code: P0401)
1 : Remove the EGR valve there are 2 holes the larger one is the one that supplies exhaust, flow don’t worry about it. The other is a vacuum port this is where exhaust gases are directed when the EGR valve opens, carbon deposits stick to the walls of the vacuum port and in time will restrict flow normally about 30,000 miles.
2: Check your local dealer for Intake cleaner ask about BG products all you will need is the intake cleaner (spray can), or head to your local parts place and pick up a can or carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors, find something to plug the larger hole make sure it will not vibrate and fall out there will be slight exhaust pressure on it but not much just be sure it is plugged real well because if not you may be surprised by a flame. Once plugged start the vehicle, spray intake cleaner into the vacuum port you may have to raise the idle to do or just open the throttle by hand spray until the can is empty.
3 : check your EGR valve push the pintle on the bottom be sure it moves in and out freely if not clean it don’t replace the valve once the pintle moves as it should reinstall the EGR valve disconnect battery for a few minutes or have code cleared.
Here is my own write up:
First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.
I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried
to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake
and place it above the TB.
So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of
carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake
and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1,
and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in
the butterfly to let it air out.
Next I removed the egr, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the egr itself. I sprayed down the inside of
the egr and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the egr tube and the hole next to it,
and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the egr sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes
before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.
Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing.
I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10
seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light!
NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated
the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled
in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car
yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!
Just a little FYI, +98 Isuzu have a solenoid to activate the sprung pintel in the EGR. The pintel is what gets carboned up, and needs to be cleaned. Diaphram EGR's, are actuated by vacuum lines to the EGR. Many mechanics are not use to this new solenoid activated EGR and assume that when there is a fault code, it is a bad diaphram.
-mike
Looks like I have a good Saturday project ahead of me.
Not sure which one it is on Paisan's site, or if added yet.
Thanks
Thanks,
Dave
einstein13@sbcglobal.net
Thanks
Where to buy Badges, Emblems and Logos?
Steve, Host
He's been MIA since last August.
tidester, host
-mike
Unless the driveshaft is bent or elsewise damaged physically, there isn't a lot that could be 'bad.' Don't think a bent driveshaft would be a warranty though.
Could be the journals / yokes where the U-joint bearings attach to the driveshaft are worn or damaged. Also, the spline that attaches from the driveshaft and front yoke / coupler to the transmission could be damaged. If anything was damaged, worn, or bent, you would feel a significant vibration at speed - maybe a clunking at lower speed. I think people who get a lot of clunking when they stop, the fix is the dealer 'lubes' the front spline. Perhaps the spline is worn.
Then there is the front driveshaft, which I think is CV joints - not sure if those are rebuildable on a Trooper?
Usually it is bad U-joints, but that (likely) wouldn't need to be ordered.
But here we go, i have questions, questions, questions, and if anyone is bored or has time to spare i would appreciate there knowledge on these subjects.
1) I can't for the life of me figure out my 4x4, i understand the TOD, basically AWD i guess. But i can't figure out how to shift into just regular 4x4 High, only the 4x4 low i can do which i know you push the lever as far to your radio as you can. Is there not actually a 4x4 high for when you just want all four wheels engaged instead of TOD? It's an automatice tranny by the way.
2) Like i said, it's a 2001, with 34,128 miles. I have about 3 months, or 16,000 miles left on warranty, and i am still very new with my trooper. I hear noises and feel vibrations that i am not sure if they are normal or not. I want to take it in to have it looked at before i leave my bumper to bumper warranty. I have no isuzu dealers around at all. So who honors my warranty, and what should i ask them to do and what kind of price should i expect?
3) just installed after market stereo, someone asked about the antenae and another mentioned IIRC?? and something mentioned what to do about the blue wire. Help! I've installed plenty of friends stereos, but nothing like this. and explain this box i found under the front passenger seat. Looks like an amp or something?
4) Lastly, i know i asked before and i am sorry, but i need tires bad, the noise while driving is horrible, i certainly hope it's the tires, otherwise i have a whole nother problem on my hands. Discount tire said it had about 2 or 3 months, just by looking you can tell they have to go. I need something quiet on the highway and roads, that will still give me a smooth drive and still some traction for winter. Oh yeah, i don't like paying 120 or 130 for a tire either.
4) Lastly it's got an oil change just done, and serpentine belt just changed what should i do for the engine, saw some stuff about spark plugs, clean some kind of EGR valve or something . . . got a 2,500 mile trip ahead and want her purring.
Sorry it's so long here folks, just know that i can get good, real answers here and i need them, and other suggestions if you got'em are cool. Thanks in advance
TOD is AWD + 4-High all rolled into 1. 4-Low is low range with a 50/50 lock between the front and rear driveshafts.
On the stereos you hook the power antenna wire up to the 2nd wire of the antenna harness. It has an amplifier for the in-glass antenna that works off the power antenna lead on the head unit.
Tires run in the $100-120 range I'd guess. Not sure what ones to suggest for on-road. I like my Pirelli Scorpion ATs
Check out http://Isuzu-suvs.com for pics of my Trooper!
-mike
Are you saying to cut the tip off of the smaller plug and wire it to my blue wire, and that will give me full use of the in-glass antenna's "amplifier"? Is that the box i am seeing under the front passenger seat? I only got a quick look but thought it was some kind of amplifier, i could be completly wrong though.