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Comments
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I wonder how does your OME / Swayaway suspension handle such a set of bumps? Would I be best to get the same that you have or softer to limit the bouncing?
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Would the setup you have be to stiff when the wife rides along?
Thank You
I would go with the HD setup, it's better suited for the Sway Away bars than the softer OME shocks. As for the rear OME 929s and HD shocks, it's near-stock feel on regular roads, my 80 year old grandmother climbs in and doesn't mind the ride now that I switched over from the Rancho 9000s.
-mike
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I have found that towing with a Trooper is very stable for its size. I have done a lot of camparisons with different tow vehicles and the same boat 4200# trailer and boat. With a lot of emphasis on making things equal and proper weight distribution, people with "luxery" SUVs and "conversion" vans nearly all have complaints about sway and control when being passed or passing a tractor trailer etc... Many of them spend a lot of money in the wrong place by adding second axles and fancy hitch add-ons etc, when they should get good tires with 40+ psi and stiffer springs and shocks and a stiffer frame if possible on the tow vehicle.
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I think the differences are simple:
1.) Troopers are trucks, not cars made to look like trucks. True trucks have sturdy load distributing frames and stout suspensions.
2.) Troopers have decent tires, even the stock ones offer decent control compared to mushy conversion vans with overloaded small 15" car tires.
2.) Troopers will out tow (better control) larger more powerful tow vehicles with longer wheelbases if those other tow vehicles are built for luxery or converted from light panel vans into heavy conversion vans.
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To tow as well as a Trooper with an American vehicle the easiest thing is to get a full size pickup - built to truck duty standards.
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In the UK the Trooper "Duty" is commonly used to tow trailers full of sheep.
If the codes sound like IMG problem, I will probably take it to an Isuzu dealer and pay them to fix it. No other options for me - not qualified to do this myself, and I know of no good independent shops around here that could do the work.
Any other thoughts/suggestions?
FYI - just changed the oil the other day - used about 3/4 quart in 5000 miles. I had been using Mobil 1 5-30 but I bought the Wallmart "Protech"?5-30 all synthetic this time - at $12 for a 5 quart jug felt it was worth a try - changed the filter and poured in the jug - right up to the fill mark. Also the "PDM" module the dealer replaced has finally cured the surging problem at cold start. For all the dealers efforts in trying to solve this problem I also got a new FPR and EGR valves
http://www.arbusa.com/Nitrocharger.htm
-mike
I had the same problem on my 1998 S automatic 4WD at 100,300 miles after having it replaced at 60K miles under warranty. I had the optional 7 year 100K extended warranty and they would not pay for the 2nd job since the vehicle was over by 300 miles. Lousy!
It cost me $294.16 out of pocket ($56.66 parts and $237.50 labor - 2.5 hours).
Good luck.
Bob
I'm pretty confident it's the IMG - confident enough to authorize the repair if they get in there and it looks like there is a problem with it. This vehicle is out of warranty and is a daily driver, so going back to the shop multiple times while they try to identify the real problem is not an option.
The parts they listed on my invoice:
Quantity: 2
Part #: 8-97237-538-0
Description: Gasket;IN
FYI - I checked my paperwork for the IMG work done under warranty at 59,960 miles and the same part and quantity was listed. However, the labor was shown as 1.7 hours versus the 2.5 hours shown when I paid for the same work. Interesting! Maybe some ammunition to cut the dealer's price down a little!
Where my weekend house is upstate NY the labor rates are generally $70-$80/hour, so in the future I might wait and do things up there, although Sholz has a long history with Isuzu and it might be worth their knowledge and experience.
Bob
-mike
Where in the Adirondacks? I used to vacation as a kid at Loon Lake near Chestertown and still love that area. When I got the weekend house in 1997 I felt the 146 miles to Roxbury was enough of a haul since I go almost every week.
I am also in the process of consolidating vehicles once I move back down away from the snow. Looking to get rid of the Trooper and my 2002 Altima and get one vehicle that serves all my needs (probably an Element or a 2wd Highlander - they're offering great deals on the 2wd 4-cylinder Highlanders and they are Toyota-reliable. The base 2wd/fwd Highlander comes with traction control, stability control and 4 wheel disc ABS standard. I am hoping that will get me through NYC metro area winters and since I don't work anymore I can stay home on really bad days.
Take care,
Bob
-mike
Also, what part # do I use to order from JC Whitney? There are quite a few to choose from.
David
Auto Zone pulled the codes from my Trooper (the Powertrain Control Module?) yesterday. It had 1 code, which the guy said was 'in there twice' - P1441. I don't have the text in front of me, but the code was a 'manufacturer controlled' which I believe means Isuzu does not allow 'standard' or 'generic' scan tools to know exactly what the problem is. There was a little more detail, but not much and I don't remember the wording.
I think this Sunday it's finally time to replace the PCV valve, clean out the EGR, and run some Neutra cleaner through the oil and gas. I figured the Check Engine light meant the intake manifold gasket (IMG) needed replacement, but the code seems to indicate something different. At 105k miles, I'm confident our Trooper needs PCV/EGR replacement/cleaning.
I guess I'll tighten up the gas cap and possibly disconnect battery for a while and see if that resolves the CEL.
This also happened about two years ago when I was starting the vehicle and released the key before it actually started and all the panel lights came on. Shortly after I re-started the engine, the CEL came on. At that time I did see the dealer and he told me the code was the same as for a loose cap since the "flooding" that occurs when you half- or almost-start the car produces the same condition and the diagnostic system can mis-interpret as a loose cap.
For what it's worth.
Bob
-mike
I have to agree with you on the power seats thing. I have NEVER been able to get the seating position I prefer on my 01' Trooper that does not have power seating. It just sits differently than my 99' even though it has those manual knob adjusters. I'm not sure what the difference is exactly, but it's noticeable.
I have no problem with Sport Utility Cars (SUCs), despite my acronym. The only reason I have a Trooper/truck is because I need to pull a fairly heavy trailer. Otherwise, it'd be a all-wheel drive car for me.
My sister's loaded up Highlander Limited is one smooth riding rocket compared to the Trooper. I'd still pick my Isuzu because it looks cool, fits more stuff and I paid $15,000 less for it (Yes, she spent $40K OTD for her Toyota when they came out - it's got everything, extra warranty and some lifetime services too.)
-mike
The only other symptoms I can offer is the amount of water being discharged seems to be excessive and immediate. I thought that had something to do only with the A/C but if I turn the A/C off it keeps on dripping. Even if I turn the heater on it keeps on dripping and a fast rate. The only way to stop the dripping is to turn the fan off.
Is it my fan? Is it possibly a fuse (I don’t know how to check if the two fuses in the box are still good)? Lastly, do you think my A/C is still fine and it is just a fan problem?
Thanks for any help
Scott
Well, whatever Toyota is doing, their doing it pretty darn well.
I still love my Trooper, though.
The fan moves the air across the coils, so if the fan isn't running, there won't be much condensation. But, when if you turn the fan off, the water that's already in the pan will continue to drip until it's gone.
As for your fan, it sounds like the fan motor could be faulty. Maybe it requires a lot of electricity to get it to spin? That would explain why the engine revs need to be up to get it to run. Could it be affected by a pool of condensate water? I don't think so, but I've never dis-assembled the unit...
I'd get that condensation line cleared as a start.
You realize that if the fan isn't in the on position, the AC compressor will not come on, even though you have the AC button depressed, right?
There's a lot of hot air in a Trooper, and the AC is not as powerful as some might hope. I always start by opening my windows to get the super-heated air out before I turn the AC on.
Also, make sure the air source lever is slid to recycle. Otherwise, you're just air conditioning outside air and forcing it into the truck.
-mike
I guess if it was a fuse problem it would either work or it wouldn't. Could it be some other electrical problem? I am not sure how a fan motor starts to go out, but I want to make sure it isn't something upstream before replacing it. I noticed on the fan motor under the part number it said 12V. Do you suppose, it might be borderline to the 12V mark? If so how do I resolve that problem. I don't know much about trucks as you can tell but like to tinker nonetheless.
scott
As to what's coming out of the condensate line, it only drips when the AC is running, or has just run, right? In a hot humid environment, it can produce quite a bit of water.
Moving humid air slowly over the coils will extract the most water. So, maybe your fan really is running poorly/slowly.
I'm hoping others will that have more experience will chime in. Fan motors have been discussed in the past...
Isuzu OBD2 codes:
http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszuobd2.shtml
Here is something titled "EVAP System Operation":
http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/images/issues/nov02/TL_Nov02.pdf
and Isuzu Technical Service Bulletins:
SB00-02-S002 MAR 00 DTC P1441 EVAP/Fuel Sender Calibration Revised
SB98-03-L006 JUL 98 DTC P1441 (EVAP) Diagnostic Procedures Revised
at http://www.alldata.com/TSB/29/98292538.html
I did search the archives and found a similar post at #9201. However, noone seemed to answer that post, but I do think mine does the same thing with switching the intake back and forth. Not sure if it is related but I do notice quite a buildup on my battery terminals in a short amount of time. I have often wondered if something is killing my battery (I am on my third one in 4yrs 70000miles. Been keeping them as clean as I can as often as needed.
Thanks again for the help
scott
David
Being an appliance has nothing to do with 4cylinders, but more the chassis/feel/personality of the vehicle...
I have 3 subies
'92 SVX
'94 Legacy Turbo 5MT Sedan
'96 Impreza L Race Prepared 4EAT
-mike
Thanks again for the help
Scott
or try http://www.car-part.com/
This is the view of the earlier Prado.
http://www.cars.auto.ru/view/?nomer=KA26146
The satellite antenna is mounted on the left side of the Trooper just ahead of the rear spoiler. The cable feeds down against the gasket on the small door and then behind various panels up to the dash. The little well in the center console (just ahead of the gear selector) was just the right place for the receiver bracket. With the signal from the Sirius tuner going directly to my HU via an audio cable, the sound is great. I picked up an Eclipse CD5441 for about $200 on E-Bay and it feeds a McIntosh amp and then CDT component front speakers. It took a lot of cutting and drilling but I managed to modify the Trooper to take the latter pieces.
With some mods, the amp fit in the well beneath the rear seat. I unscrewed the various screws holding the plastic liner and lid of the well to the body and removed it. Lo and behold the actual cavity in the body extends back under the floor another 6" or so. I tried placing the amp in there and it fit! So I made some measurements and marks and then went to work on the plastic liner with a drill and skill saw. First I cut about a 12" by 3.5" slot in the rear of the plastic liner so that the amp could be tilted into the well and slide partly through the slot into the body cavity. Then I drilled about forty 3/8" or so holes in the lid of the well liner and then made various holes around the sides so that air could move freely below the seat, in and out of the body cavity, etc. The Trooper has a fairly thick acoustic mat mounted between the metal floor of the well and the plastic liner. What ended up as an amazing coincidence was that the mat's irregular shape extends beyond the plastic liner floor into exactly the area where the rest of the amp will sit. In other words, about 2/3 of the amp sits on the plastic floor of the liner (bolted to it) and then the remaining 1/3 of the amp body passes through the slot and rests directly on the acoustic mat. That acoustic liner adds some good isolation from vibration, shock, etc. I cut away the carpet over the lid so that the amp could have airflow through the lid holes I drilled. Power to the amp comes via an 8-gauge wire that runs straight to the battery via a grommet mounted in the firewall. Actually, I removed the plate that is bolted to the firewall just above the brake pedal, drilled it, mounted a grommet and then routed the wire through that - works great (found that tip either here or on that "other" list).
The 6.5" CDT midwoofers I have are just too large and deep to fit in the Trooper's front doors without building the door out a lot. So I bought some used CDT 5.25" mid- woofers and made rings from MDF to add 1/2" mounting depth to the speaker openings. It was a perfect fit, with the woofer magnets right up against the plastic basket. I also covered most of the rear of the basket with sheet plastic to protect the woofers from water, etc. when the windows are rolled down. I then used the stock speaker grills as a base for new mesh/fabric grills that allow room for the depth of the new speakers. I mounted the crossovers in the hollows formed by the inside of the door armrests (inside the door panels of course) and, temporarily, mounted the CDT tweeters in the stock Trooper locations.
It sounds really good and so far I'm very happy with Sirius, especially their traditional jazz channel. My last two mods, when time allows (these have been my weekend fun projects) will be to move the tweeters to surface mounts just above the woofers and to line both surfaces of the front doors with "Brown Bread" to damp them acoustically.
Cheers,
Sean
'99 Trooper w/ Lux Package
The fan does not work at all in any position. If I turn on A/C or defrost the compressor kicks on, but not the blower. I have power to all the way to the blower connector IF I GROUND TO CHASSIS and REGARDLESS of fan switch position, but not if I ground to connector. The blower works when removed and given direct 12v power. I can only assume this means the dash blower switch switches the ground side, yes?
I am not familiar with the 'resistor pack' in the dash or the 'relay' under the hood and ran out of time tonight, does the hot side or ground side run thru those? If so the I can eliminate them possible problems, yes? If not, is it likely one of these is the problem versus the dash blower switch? How much time is involved in getting to the dash switch? Any tips on removal?...I see a few screws and am hoping it's not too involved.
btw...kudos to Isuzu for making the blower so accessible and easy to drop!
Thanks for any input/help.
The Trooper has something similar to the Timbrens already in the exact same location, but the rubber was softer AND I was missing the one on the passenger side completely!...the one still there on the driver's side just kind of rested on a 'nub'.
I did have to grind down part of a large mounting washer to give clearance for the install however.
Thanks
I also took most of the dash off to reach the fan switch. Continuity test results are:
Off - nothing to nothing
1st position - Black/Orange
2nd position - Black/Yellow, B/O and O/Y
3rd position - Black/Red, B/O and O/R
4th position - Black/Red & White, B/O, O/RW
I'm a little over my head with the power check. One it appears that the switch switches the ground side. And Two, I've got a lot of stuff disconnected and unplugged!
Regarding above...if B/O are connected in all positions but 'OFF' it follows whatever connects to Black will always connect to Orange as well.
I guess I am going to try to put all this back together now and try to replace the Resistor pack when I can and go from there. If that doesn't work I'll order a fan switch and at least I know how to take the dash apart now!
There is also a 'mystery' plug just above and to the left of Resistor pack. Made by Zexel as well it's long and narrow...possible some type of thermostat? 0.5 (degree sign)C stamped on it.
I've heard mention of some relay under the hood, but I can only see one for the A/C in the under hood fuse box. Any info appreciated.