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Toyota Sequoia

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  • mtnimagermtnimager Member Posts: 2
    I get to hear this beautiful metal symphony as I head up my (state maintained gravel) road every morning. I have owned 4WD vehicles made by Nissan, Dodge and Chevrolet and have never heard anything like this. The dealer has been no help, "they all do it", and I just wish I had tested the car a little more carefully prior to purchase.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    The reason your Dodge, Chevy and Nissan didn't make that noise is because they didn't have traction control. What you are hearing is not metal but rather your ABS system functioning as designed. When one wheel slips, ABS is applied to that wheel to fool your differentials into sending power to the correct wheel for best traction.

    The time to worry is when it stops making the noise.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    If you use the sequoia in 4wd it is less likely to spin the tires, so it is less likely that the TRAC system will have to engage. The multi-mode system in the sequoia can be used 100% of the time with no harmful effects to the drivetrain. Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    When things are slick I just drive around in 4WD. I've noticed no difference in the way the truck drives at all. And, the other poster is correct, the TCS will hardly need to engage. If your on a lose gravel road why not use 4WD? On the other hand, if yours is a 2001 model, I understand that those systems tend to be too sensative and activate prematurely.
  • dupont1dupont1 Member Posts: 14
    I have this annoying rattling sound coming from the left side of the dash between the side window and steering wheel in my 2001 Limited. It sounds like something having to do with the steering column and seems more prominent when the wheel is turned to the left and the vehicle is going over bumps in the road. Anyone have a similar problem that knows of a fix?
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    There is a TSB for that noise, and it has to do with the hood hinge in the area of the firewall.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    I went ahead and e-mailed you some info on the above.
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    TSB NV005-02 2001 - 2002 model year Sequoia vehicles produced before the VIN 5TD#T##A62S074056.

    This includes removing the hood and the hinge that is rattling. I'd take it to a dealer and let them handle it due to the weight of the hood.
  • pschreckpschreck Member Posts: 524
    I have a 2001 Limited. I drive it in 4WD almost exclusively. The only time I ever hear the traction control engage is on snow or ice.

    If you do decide to run it in 4WD, you won't notice much difference in MPG. I only lose about one mpg.
  • slcamtslcamt Member Posts: 37
    The trac noise should be less noticeable for a vehicle in this price range for sure. I would suggest you present the problem to the dealer as a sensitivity issue and not a noise issue. Make them take a new truck up your road and compare the vsc sensitivity. Are you running in 4 wheel drive when you are on this road?
  • ronstoyronstoy Member Posts: 55
    Mid November I posted that I had 3 lines not working on my rear defroster...after calling 1-800 Toyota they suggested that I call the customer relations dept at the selling dealer, which I did. They said they would take care of it, after three attempted repairs on three different appointments/time off work/etc. Two of the three lines have been fixed and the third line being unable to be fixed. They suggested replacing the window which would not be covered under warranty. It was even suggested that I call my insurance and see if they will pay to have it replaced.

    I still maintain that this was defective from the start either at the factory or dealership since the Sequoia is used mostly going to and from work, I have never hauled large loads in the rear, never stacked anything above the bottom of the window. The only exception was our Thanksgiving trip and by then at least one attempt had been made to fix the defroster.

    I find it amazing that Toyota and or the dealership would leave me with a bad taste in my mouth and risk me bad mouthing Toyota or the dealership, not purchasing Toyota again, whatever on such a minor (on their part) repair.

    I liked the new 4Runner too...;-)
  • mentor34mentor34 Member Posts: 60
    When you leave it in 4WD, do you notice that it is more difficult to turn the front wheels all the way in either direction??
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    The multi-mode 4wd on the sequoia isn't like the old styles where they use a transfer case. It uses a center differential, so that it is able to let the wheels front, rear, and side-to-side all turn at different rates. So, no, you won't feel the wheels bind-up on dry pavement. The system is designed to be able to be used 100% of the time if you wish with no adverse effects to the drivetrain.
  • pschreckpschreck Member Posts: 524
    Good question. I don't have an answer except that I have never noticed that it was difficult. I'll have to do a test this weekend to see if there is any difference between the two.

    I normally drive it in 4WD because a number of times, while driving my former '96 K1500 PU, I lost traction on gravel or wet pavement while pulling into traffic. Everytime, I thought to myself that it would be great if I could stay in 4WD all the time to avoid that without the binding that comes with Part-Time systems.

    I will say that for a truck based SUV, this thing drives like a dream. But I believe that most Sequoia owners would agree. When I test drove a new 4Runner I was equally impressed with it's handling.
  • buyer35buyer35 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2001 SR5 2wd, and lately the brake light has been coming on during normal driving, when I use the brakes (not the emergency/parking brake). It usually stays on just a few seconds & goes back off after I let off the brake pedel. I have under 18k miles on it and it just began doing it about 2 weeks ago. Anyone else experience this? Could it be related to the same problem that I've had from day 1, with the emergency/parking brake not 'holding' the vehicle on any incline at all. I press it all the way down, & it still doesn't hold.
    Any suggestions Cliffy?
    Thanks.
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    You're just low on brake fluid....seriously. Fill it to the "Full" line and the light will stay extinquished. This also indicates that your pads have probably worn significantly since the fluid displaces room in the caliper as the pads wear.
  • norwesternernorwesterner Member Posts: 94
    Do what raddboy41 says, I had the same problem on my old 93 Camry and when the light was on the cruise control wouldn't work, called the dealer because I thought it was an adjustment problem, they said add fluid (it didn't take much) problem solved.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    If your fluid is so low that your brake light comes on then you have a problem (current or near future) with your brakes. Go see your service department.

    Most likely you have one of two problems

    1. Brake pads are worn and need to be replaced. This is normal, your fluid level drops as your pads wear, when new pads are installed the fluid level will move back up to full.

    2. You have a leak somewhere in your brake system.

    Adding brake fluid does nothing to solve either of these problems.
  • oac3oac3 Member Posts: 373
    This talk of low brake fluids and brake lights coming on indicating worn brake pads suddenly jarred my memory: When I replaced my brake pads at 25K miles on my '01 SR5, the dealership told me I needed a new set of front rotors as well. At 25K miles, according to my dealer, my pads were at 0% and have warped the rotors due to metal-to-metal contacts, hence a new set of pads and rotors. Total cost of the job was $550 or so. But I never saw any brake lights come on to warn me of any low fluid levels or worn brake pads, hence I did not know about the worn pads and warped rotors costing me $500+ in repairs.

    Question: Should the brake lights have come on or not ? And if not, is this peculiar to mine or is it *normal* ? In any case, maybe I need to get my dealer to take a look at mine just in case there is some blown fuse or something in the ECU which prevented the brake light from coming on ? Anyone else have any thoughts on this ???
  • shek3shek3 Member Posts: 72
    if you have full glass coverage, and just "happen" to break your rear glass then it will be covered............it aint the kosher way to do it, but I think Chanukah is over anyway!
  • mulligan2mulligan2 Member Posts: 59
    Anybody have a favorite tire to replace the stock Dunlops? Also, has anyone plus sized their tires on the factory rims?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Brake pads can be worn out without the "low brake fluid light" coming on. But you should have heard some abnormal brake noise before the worn pads damage the rotor to the point it needs to be replaced. IMO - the dealer could have charged you or covered the repair under warranty. Judgement call.
  • pschreckpschreck Member Posts: 524
    I did the steering test this weekend. I didn't notice any difference in the difficulty while moving. I didn't even think to try while standing still until just now. Hope this helps.
  • petro33petro33 Member Posts: 192
    I replaced my dunlops two weeks ago with Michelin Cross terrains. I noticed they were a soother/quite ride. The other reasons I got them were because of wet weather handling and tread life. I will realize the benefits of these over time. They are not the best for snow or off road use (according to their own web site). However I do neither. It only rains here in Sacramento and my wife drives the Seq to and from work, and she has a heavy foot! She needs all the advantage I can give her
  • ekunstekunst Member Posts: 21
    where on the web can tsb's be found. if this info is "top secrect" via edmunds, i would greatly appreciate an email
    thanks
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Summaries can be found here, at alldata.com and www.nhtsa.dot.gov/. You have to wheedle the full text from a friendly service writer or ask your public library if they subscribe to alldata (they give away summaries, but sell the full text).


    Our link: The Edmunds Maintenance Guide


    Steve, Host

  • physiochemphysiochem Member Posts: 22
    This either a really important question or, due to my ignorance, a really stupid one. I was under my Sequoia this morning replacing the spare and noticed what appears to be "rust". I can see it clearly around the rear axle where the wheel attaches and around the inside of the axle while looking through the hollow sections. I assume that this is rust because it looks like rust - same color and texture. I have never driven off road so I am sure that I have never scratched the undercarriage down to the bare metal - although this would not account for the interior of the axle cross bar showing the same rust color. I do a lot of mountain driving so, during the winter, I run into a lot of snow and therefore salt from the road crews. However, I have been very careful to wash the undercarriage thoroughly after each mountain trip. Honestly, I am not sure if this is rust or not but if it is, I hope that I might get some advice from you guys. Thanks in advance for any advice that you guys might have.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    I believe alot of the metal under there develops a surface rust, much like the new bridges. It actually forms a barrier but won't progress. I'm not sure where I read this, but I'm thinking it's nothing to worry about.
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    As mentioned in my posting....add fluid AND check your pads. I said nothing about "fill the fluid" being the fix to anything other than the extinquishing the "Brakes" light. It is actually VERY common on the Sequoia for the pads to wear down to the point that the brake fluid gets low enough to to turn on the light. This light should NEVER be used however to determine the condition of your brakes or how much pad you have left. It is what it is.....a light indicating low brake fluid. There are wear tabs that will emminate a screech from the wheels when the pads get dangerously low.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    If you check your pads - and they are worn out - adding fluid would not do you much good. When you replace the pads you would need to drain the fluid you just added back out or it would overflow when you push the pistons back to install the new pads. If your pads are not worn then where did the fluid go? - must be a leak in your system. Adding fluid may be OK in this case, but I would still want to find the leak.

    Take a look in your owners manual under brake fluid - it most likely says - "Do not top off brake fluid"

    Anyone with a Sequoia owners manual handy?
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    Okay, I've make two post regarding this and for some reason you still believe that I said that adding fluid would somehow remedy the pads. Where did I say that? Also, when you push back the pistons to make room for new pads, do you crack the bleeder or simply push the old fluid back into the reservoir? I guess both methods are acceptable as long as you are aware of it's effects and possibilities. I think we're both on the same page here and both have mechanical experience....one question...do you own a Sequoia?
  • espinaldoespinaldo Member Posts: 24
    I have an issue that I have not yet seen on this board. I posted on the problems and solutions board but I don't think that there is as much traffic there so I am reposting here.
    This deals with a low "thunk" noise--The dealer did one fix but it is back 9 months later.

    When driving at a constant moderate speed with very little or no pressure on the
    gas pedal--floating--and slight pressure is added/increased on the pedal, there
    is a thunk that sounds like it comes from a drive shaft. I described this to the
    dealer last March and the service department looked at it and found that there
    were burrs or rough spots on (and now comes the part where I get fuzzy) a drive
    line or other line that is connected to or a pert of the transmission. Apparently
    there was slippage where the line was connected to a sleeve. The service
    department removed the excess metal and the noise was gone.

    I rarely drive the car, but I did today and I noticed that the thunk is back. It
    appears that the service department repaired the symptom rather than the
    cause of the problem.

    Does anyone have any ideas?
  • conrad007conrad007 Member Posts: 7
    Does anyone have any news about the 2004 and 2005 model Sequoias, pictures especially.

    Thanks,
    Conrad007
  • norwesternernorwesterner Member Posts: 94
    My camry had 65000 miles on it when the brake light came on. I called the dealership and they advised me to check the fluid. My brakes were fine, I put another 30,000 on the car before I sold it and it never happened again, the system wasn't leaking it was just low on fluid and I'm talking about just a few ounces.
  • somakandansomakandan Member Posts: 14
    2004 models will be quite identical to the current ones.

    2005 models (out by fall of 2004) will have 5.4 L engine. Same year Lexus will introduce LX540, as well, replacing their LX470. The LX540 will contain the same powertrain and same engine 5.4 L as that of the 2005 sequoias.

    No clue on other add-ons, though.

    I got this info from a lexus lead sales person.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Rad - I don't own a Sequoia - but all of my vehicles have brakes! Have you checked your owners manual yet? Does it have the "DO NOT TOP OFF" statement?



    Northwesterner - Good point - if you have a high mileage car adding a little fluid may be a good solution. I would not expect a 2001 / 2002 vehicle with 20K miles or less to be so low on fliud that the dummy light comes on. Do you accept that as normal?

    I know the Sequoia has had more than its share of brake problems - maybe warped rotors and adding fluid are normal.
  • norwesternernorwesterner Member Posts: 94
    Your comment "maybe warped rotors and adding fluid are normal" are sarcastic and unnecessary here. We, for the most part, are Sequoia owners trying to help Sequoia owners, this is not a Sequoia bashing board.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    Brake problems are not unique to just the Sequoia. Many vehicles in the last couple model years have had brake issues. At least Toyota has a TSB that calls for a complete overhaul under warranty which includes a new caliper and rotor design for affected vins.
  • minuteman26minuteman26 Member Posts: 70
    Just had my 2001 SR5 in for its 30k service and mentioned a occasional slight vibration during extended braking, such as long downhill stretches. Otherwise brakes were smooth and normal. The dealer installed the new brake kit without any further discussion...only had to wait a few days for parts. They replaced the stereo, also, totally eliminating any complaint I had with the Sequoia, except that it didn't come with a factory backup obstacle warning sensor. Had to go to aftermarket for that one.
  • sk123sk123 Member Posts: 10
    How often Sequoia needs oil change. Service manual says 5000 miles or 7500 miles depending on driving conditions . Dealer says 3000 miles. Which one is reccomended ? Mine reached 3300 miles and I don't know whom I should follow

    Please advice
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    So z71bill doesn't own a Sequoia? I thought as much. :^) Actually the owners manual says NOTHING about not topping off the brake reservior! In fact, if you owned a Sequoia and participated in Sequioa discussion groups, you would KNOW that the fluid doesn't need to be very low for sensor to trip. Plenty of pad left, the fluid just dropped a bit to replace to space that the pads no longer take up. For sure, the Sequoia's OEM front calipers are up to the task, but a TSB has been issued to replace them with beefier ones that are free as long as your vehicle is still under warranty.
  • physiochemphysiochem Member Posts: 22
    Amid all the "brake" and "fluid" discussion, I am thinking that maybe my post was missed so I am reposting it know. If, indeed, it was not missed and no one had any advice, please forgive the repeat. Thanks again and here it goes...

    This either a really important question or, due to my ignorance, a really stupid one. I was under my Sequoia this morning replacing the spare and noticed what appears to be "rust". I can see it clearly around the rear axle where the wheel attaches and around the inside of the axle while looking through the hollow sections. I assume that this is rust because it looks like rust - same color and texture. I have never driven off road so I am sure that I have never scratched the undercarriage down to the bare metal - although this would not account for the interior of the axle cross bar showing the same rust color. I do a lot of mountain driving so, during the winter, I run into a lot of snow and therefore salt from the road crews. However, I have been very careful to wash the undercarriage thoroughly after each mountain trip. Honestly, I am not sure if this is rust or not but if it is, I hope that I might get some advice from you guys. Thanks in advance for any advice that you guys might have.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    How about oxidation? Seriously, have you ever owned a vehicle that sat up high enough to see the underside? Those parts not made of stainless steel and they will oxidize (rust). Its not a Toyota exclusive. The thing is though, the surface oxidation actually protects the deeper parts. We are not talking about thin sheet metal areas that a thin penetration of rust causes a break through. We are talking about heavy, cast iron parts. The surface oxidation cuts off moisture from penetrating much deeper.

    Bottom line is, it isn't a big deal. You'll drive yourself nuts if you let it bother you.
  • norwesternernorwesterner Member Posts: 94
    You mentioned a TSB for brake replacement. Mine is a fairly new 2002, is it meant to cover that vehicle? Is it at owners option? or just if you have problems. I'm having no problems at all with the brakes or the rest of the vehicle.
  • tgtoytgtoy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 SEQ and the carpeting in the cargo area is always wet! It's going back to the dealer next week for a "water test". I can't imagine where the water would be coming from. Has anyone else had this issue?
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    If you're having no problems with your brakes then there is no reason to do anything right now. The TSB BR005-02 applies to VIN number LOWER THAN 5TD*T##A#2S136792. The work would be done under the 36mn/36,000 mile basic warranty. If you feel vibration during braking, intermittent or not, get thyself to your local Toyota dealer and request the work to be done.
  • pschreckpschreck Member Posts: 524
    We had a good snow in south central PA on Christmas day. I had to drive a 70 mile round trip to pick up my brother-in-law and nephew so they could be with the family. I hadn't been to their new apartment before and was under the impression that I had to take two lane "back" roads for about 60% of the distance to get there. Almost white out conditions at times. No problems at all. The Sequoia went through the weather with ease.

    But even better was when I took them back today. We took the Interstates the whole way. Since the roads were snow covered to semi clear to clear, it was great to be able to run in 4WD the whole way without any of the worries that a Part-Time system would have brought on. I had power to all four wheels at all times, which is very beneficial in those types of conditions. Trucks with Auto 4WD Part Time systems can't compare since they only get power to the front wheels after rear wheel slippage has occured.

    This experience shows me that the combination of Active TRAC and Toyota reliability is the best thing on the market.
  • 2heeldrive2heeldrive Member Posts: 87
    Thanks for the update pschreck -- you accurately described the biggest reason I choose the Sequoia instead of another Suburban. There is no substitute for full time 4WD and Active TRAC. In my opinion, any other system is a rip off. I just wish we could get some of that white stuff here in KC. We are in the middle of a severe drought -- 40 days without any moisture. 3rd driest year ever.
  • raddboy41raddboy41 Member Posts: 249
    So how does your 650R do in the snow? :^) Fun, eh? Okay, back to your reqularly scheduled programming.
  • gedmundscgedmundsc Member Posts: 29
    The manual always dictates. I do mine at 5,000 because I tow a camper frequently.
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