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Your user name suggests otherwise, Pedal2dmetal :-)
15,000 miles should be plenty of time to break everything in. Maybe you should look into retraining the computers and make sure you don't have a brake dragging.
Steve, Host
Anyone?
Steve, Host
my Toyota dealer inspected the rust around the exhaust tip today and said there is nothing they can do. Toyota Customer Service said that the rust warranty of 5yrs/unlimited miles only covers body panels.
Needless to say, I'm not satisfied with Toyota's or the dealer's responses. Has you or anyone had a postive experience with this rust problem where the dealer actually did something to rectify and prevent further rusting?
Thanks.
Yesterday, while reading another board dedicated to solutions for Tundra’s and Sequoia’s, I found a post by an intrepid Sequoia owner, who found the cure. It is so simple, I didn’t believe it would work, but decided to invest 5 minutes and try it. And It Worked!!!!
The cure: move a ground wire from the firewall to a ground point on the fender. That’s it!
For anyone who wants to try it, here are the details. The ground wire in question runs from the engine to a mounting point on the upper part of the firewall on the passenger side. There is a 10mm bolt attaching it to the firewall. Remove the bolt and take the wire off. The wire has some extra length in a loop wrapped with tape, remove the tape and pull the loop out. Remove one of the 10mm nuts from the power steering reservoir mounting bracket where it mounts to the body. Put the wire on the bolt and put the nut back on. Ok, that’s it! Being the thorough person that I am, I put the bolt that attached the ground wire on the firewall back in, and covered all the holes on the firewall that I could see with aluminum tape. I then decided to look for other openings where sound might get in, and found two gaps on either end of the firewall at the intersection with the inner fender. I sealed this area (about 2 inches long) with some left over painters caulk that I found in the garage. I don’t know if it is necessary to cover up the holes and gaps, but I did and now there is NO ticking and very little engine noise in the cab at all. Yea ha!!!
THD.
But there is a chance, remote, but possible, that you have inadvertantly increased the resistance between the negative side of the battery and the negative side of the fuel injectors. Less current to the injector, less noise from the injector seats as their solenoids are energized and released.
Just to be safe I would try the following.
Personally I would advise putting the wire back on the firewall and then running a good heavy duty high current connection between that same firewall connection and the negative side of the battery.
If the ticking noise doesn't return then all well and good. But if it does return, or even get only slightly louder, then moving the ground point as you have might result in premature engine failure.
An intentional inductance??
I find it very stange that extra wire is there in an area that typically requires the absolute minimum resistance for a system ground connection.
In most cases the battery negative post is connected directly to the engine block very near the starter. The starter draws a LOT of current so wire runs to/from are kept to an absolute minimum.
The connection you are moving is the MAIN ground wire connection for the battery negative post to the vehicle body. You want to be really sure that the point you have moved it to is VERY well connected to the body also.
In years past I have had instances wherein electronics components failed due to corrosion of that firewall connection. When you clean and burnish your battery terminals each spring it doesn't hurt to clean and burnish both ends of that connection also.
This is a simple, low tech, safe and effective solution to a problem that has stumped Toyota for years, let’s not complicate it. I’ll let you know if I run into any problems later on. In the meantime, I will be enjoying the sounds of silence in my Sequoia.
There is a REALLY heavy guage wire/cable from the battery negative post connected directly to the engine block. Oftentimes this cable is connected under one of the bolts holding the starter to the engine block. The heavy cable on the positive side generally goes directly to the starter solenoid, and oftentimes this solenoid is either a part of the starter itself or mounted on it.
Now, where-ever your engine ECU is located, the transisters in it must be capable of switching the positive side of the circuit to the injector coil. The return current from the other side of the coil will most likely flow through that engine/firewall connection and then via the sheetmetal to the ECU.
As I said before, it is entirely possible that the high inrush surge current, each time an injector is "fired", will be high enough that the magnetic field will "wrinkle" the fairly thin firewall sheetmetal and create the ticking sound you heard.
But in the alternative you may have inadvertantly added just enough resistance in the circuit, a few hundred milliohms, to reduce the inrush current to the injectors significantly.
You will generally find a second cable from the positive battery post going off to the main fuse panel and power distribution harnesses.
Generally, the way the battery circuit is completed is via the metal structures and skin of the vehicle. That's why you have a reasonably heavy guage wire (this is often an uninsulated braided strap) connected from the engine block to the firewall, this is the "ground" connection that will be used to provide a circuit "return" path.
As an engineer, I would NEVER provide more slack or extra wire length above the amount needed for engine "torquing" movement in that connection. And by the way, that engine movement thing is likely the reason for the historically consistent location of this connection.
I have absolutely no doubt that the "ticking" sound that I hear in my 01 RX300 at or near idle is the sound of the fuel injectors operating. V6 at 800RPM is ~13RPS, 18 "ticks" per second.
24 "ticks"/second if you have a V8. Sound about right?
The only thing I might consider to "quiet" the ticking is wrap the injectors in some sort of sound deadening insulation.
Please keep in mind that the only notice you might get if I am correct is a prematurely failed engine. There is also slight chance, if I am correct, that you will notice a loss of some serious high end, high RPM, performance.
Low inrush current would result in slow, sloppy, opening of the injectors and that would not be noticeable until the engine climbs into the higher RPM ranges.
I have always thought that the injector ticking sound was from the release of the power and therefore resulting from the spring action reseating of the injector.
Your moving the ground and have the ticking become quieter seems to indicate otherwise.
If you move the original wire back does the tick return?
Now regarding ticking noises.... mine doesn't have it. Maybe it's bcos I live in warm and sunny SoCal, hey ? Just one more reason why everyone should move out here; you'd never know if your SQ has the ticking noise. And that's all right by me.
I bought it from Tempe Toyota, Tempe, Arizona. Among the Navigation, Rear Seat Entertainment, and the luxury package. Among the 3 options, the luxury package is the least useful to me. The Rear seat DVD is also overpriced. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any Limited model with only Navigation option. According to the sales from several dealers, I have to buy Navigation along with RSE and Luxury options together.
Tommy
A few months later the car decided not to start at the worse possible time. In checking the fuse I noticed that the fuse clamp was highly "oxidized", discolored.
Turned out the fuse hadn't failed but the fuse clamping was so loose the connection had degraded to the point that there was none.
As a temporary workaround I added an inline fuse holder bypassing the original.
Guess what?
The pump now ran intermittently again.
Without actually knowing I'm guessing the fluid pump was of the plunger type, a larger version of your fuel injectors and therefore drawing a much higher inrush current.
Apparently with the slight extra resistance of the non-springiness of the fuse clamp the pump wasn't reaching full travel and then not shutting off because even with the engine not running the fuel pressure never reached the pump shut-off level.
Theory and experience.
Not a relative of Dubya by any means.
As a test I would connect a good heavy guage wire from the battery negative post to the new ground connection. The new wire should provide a good enough, improved, ground connection that the clicking noise will come back if it disappeared due to more ciruit resistance.
It is the luxury of the LX and not the size that my wife wants for her 40th birthday in 2005. If it were all my decision, I'd trade the Seq and get a nice 2-seater roadster
Don't know if this helps or not.... But you gotta do what you feel is best for you, but if you want out of the Seq, do it before it hits 100K miles.
Help appreciated
1) Should we extend our lease for a year on the Yukon and wait for the new design on the '06 Toyota? I'm disappointed because I really thought both the Sequoia and Yukon would have come out with the fold-flat 3rd row seats by this time.
2) Is it better to lease or buy? My husband isn't convinced it's better to buy although he owns his '99 Acura RL and plans to drive it awhile to 100,000 miles. I think it's fine to buy a Toyota and keep it 7 years but probably wouldn't invest in a GMC truck.
3) What are the main differences as far as cargo and seating room and comfort between the two vehicles. Does the second row in Sequoia fold flat like the Yukon? Is there more legroom for people in the third row of the Seq than the Yukon? How would you compare the comfort level of both?
Thanks! I really hope someone can answer these questions!
tidester, host
1) Should we extend our lease for a year on the Yukon and wait for the new design on the '06 Toyota? I'm disappointed because I really thought both the Sequoia and Yukon would have come out with the fold-flat 3rd row seats by this time.
The new redesign for the Sequoia won't be here until the MY'07 release, since the '05 represent a small tweak in the front and rear facias and it typically takes Toyota another 6 releases to come with a brand new design. In the case of the Seq, released Oct 2000 so expect a complete re-do circa 2006 summer/fall or thereabouts.
2) Is it better to lease or buy? My husband isn't convinced it's better to buy although he owns his '99 Acura RL and plans to drive it awhile to 100,000 miles. I think it's fine to buy a Toyota and keep it 7 years but probably wouldn't invest in a GMC truck.
Leasing saves you money upfront (in the short-term) and allows you to trade-out into new vehicles every other 36 months or so. Buying a Toyota and holding for 7 years is probably slightly better than the comparable GMC over the same length of time... by historical standards. Your call here. Time over money....
3) What are the main differences as far as cargo and seating room and comfort between the two vehicles. Does the second row in Sequoia fold flat like the Yukon? Is there more legroom for people in the third row of the Seq than the Yukon? How would you compare the comfort level of both?
Both are fine trucks. Their dimensions are comparable as well (see link below). What differentiates both, imo, are the dated designs of the GMC (interior and exterior), access to third-row seating better in the Seq., and maybe the leg room may be a slight nod to the Seq. The Seq's DOHC 32V VVT-i 282hp motor is light-years ahead of the very dated 16V OHV 4.8L 285hp motor in the base Yukon. Maybe go up to the big 6.0L in the Denali to get more umph..... However, combined with the option levels you can get on the Denali trim, those of the GMC will provide you more options than on the Yota, and more creature comforts as well. I'll say both trucks are solid performers, and either one of these trucks will serve you well. Oh, you'll probably do better price-wise with the Yukon
See the comparo features/specs here from Edmunds
http://www.edmunds.com/apps/nvc/edmunds/VehicleComparison;jsessio- - - nid=BqzhGHO0ficeCUbWaGbt3htmr6d23FA7ZKssxhn582PTf9l1kkAE!-1914811- - - 638?basestyleid=100273874&styleid=100334204&maxvehicles=5- - - &refid=&op=3&tab=specs
Hope these helps
I've read that the Armada is not up to snuff interior and material wise, but probably has the best engine for now. That is if you can get past the styling (I can't but do find the new Pathfinder quite nice).
Sorry, I don't have much to offer on this one....
ps: Although my '01 Seq SR5 has been flawless through 57K miles (except for the weak front brakes that had to be fixed under warranty due to recall by Toyota), I am looking to trade-out to an LX in the immdeiate future - the wife's wish
The Armada has an excellent powertrain and is now in it's second model year. I would definitely test drive the Armada if I were you. If you need to tow something, it may be your best choice with a 9100 lb towing capacity although the Sequoia will handle most small boats and trailers. Big knock on the Armada from what I heard has been that it is loud which is definitely a strong point of the Sequoia. Maybe the QX56 is quieter although much more money I'm sure.
You might want to do more research on the when the re-design is due. I believe what you are seeing on this board is speculation. I remember buying a '97 Civic because I knew the comparable Acura Integra would be due for a re-design in '98 (based on last redesign for the '94 model year)since Honda always re-designed their cars every 4 years (yeah right). The Integra stuck around until '02 I believe.
I am very much interested to know if $2000 cash-back to the dealer is really true or not? anybody know?
Steve, Host