My Sequoia just recently racked up 15K in just 8 months and looking to getting the cabin filter replaced. Where is the cabin filter located, I was under the impression from the dealer that it is behind the passenger compartment right side by the trunk. Guess what, the second AC unit for the passenger is whats there, but no filter.
It's been 15K miles and seems like my MPG has not gone up a bit. Right now, I still average 16.2 MPG and I don't drive hard. My Sequoia is a 2x4, but I seem to be getting bad mileage compared to most I know running on 4x4 and getting 18-19 MPG.
Your user name suggests otherwise, Pedal2dmetal :-)
15,000 miles should be plenty of time to break everything in. Maybe you should look into retraining the computers and make sure you don't have a brake dragging.
Well, that was for my M3. How do you retrain the computers. Also, brake dragging would be very hard since I have push on the pedals hard to get the e-brake engaged. Or do you mean brake drag via brake pedal wherein it's not backing off enough to reduce friction. I would think if this is the case, then I would have bad breaks not the mention the nasty smell.
Usually you disconnect the battery to start over with training the car to match your driving habits, although I think the computers are supposed to keep adjusting stuff as you drive. As far as brakes dragging, I'm just tossing out ideas but it may be worth it to check.
How do you re-set it? Just disconnecting and connecting the terminals? I have a 2004 Seq and I mostly get 13-14 mpg driving in the city. I can get 16-18 mpg when I drive between 70-80 mph. One day I noticed one of my rotors was very hot. I took it in and the Toyota service inspected the clipers and brake system and declared everything was OK. They also told me that the rotors run hot at about 240F. Can someone confirm this, please?
I believe from the JBL premium 6 disc in dash system, the door front and rear speakers are 6.5 inches. They are a 3 way system meaning that there ais a woofer, a midrange, and a tweeter. What I did on mine is to change only the tweeter and added a subwoofer and it sounds a lot better.
my Toyota dealer inspected the rust around the exhaust tip today and said there is nothing they can do. Toyota Customer Service said that the rust warranty of 5yrs/unlimited miles only covers body panels.
Needless to say, I'm not satisfied with Toyota's or the dealer's responses. Has you or anyone had a postive experience with this rust problem where the dealer actually did something to rectify and prevent further rusting?
For those of you that have been following this board for a while, you know that some Sequoia’s are plagued with an annoying “ticking” sound coming from the engine in cold weather. This sound, which Toyota says is “normal”, has been attributed to noisy fuel injectors, exhaust leaks, pistons slapping, valves, etc. I have lived with this little annoyance for three years and decided to just accept it, as the noise goes away once the engine is warmed up.
Yesterday, while reading another board dedicated to solutions for Tundra’s and Sequoia’s, I found a post by an intrepid Sequoia owner, who found the cure. It is so simple, I didn’t believe it would work, but decided to invest 5 minutes and try it. And It Worked!!!!
The cure: move a ground wire from the firewall to a ground point on the fender. That’s it!
For anyone who wants to try it, here are the details. The ground wire in question runs from the engine to a mounting point on the upper part of the firewall on the passenger side. There is a 10mm bolt attaching it to the firewall. Remove the bolt and take the wire off. The wire has some extra length in a loop wrapped with tape, remove the tape and pull the loop out. Remove one of the 10mm nuts from the power steering reservoir mounting bracket where it mounts to the body. Put the wire on the bolt and put the nut back on. Ok, that’s it! Being the thorough person that I am, I put the bolt that attached the ground wire on the firewall back in, and covered all the holes on the firewall that I could see with aluminum tape. I then decided to look for other openings where sound might get in, and found two gaps on either end of the firewall at the intersection with the inner fender. I sealed this area (about 2 inches long) with some left over painters caulk that I found in the garage. I don’t know if it is necessary to cover up the holes and gaps, but I did and now there is NO ticking and very little engine noise in the cab at all. Yea ha!!!
My guess would be that the high inrush surge current into the fuel injectors was causing the this firewall metal to act as speaker, tweeder to be exact, due to the high magnetic flux from that current flow.
But there is a chance, remote, but possible, that you have inadvertantly increased the resistance between the negative side of the battery and the negative side of the fuel injectors. Less current to the injector, less noise from the injector seats as their solenoids are energized and released.
Just to be safe I would try the following.
Personally I would advise putting the wire back on the firewall and then running a good heavy duty high current connection between that same firewall connection and the negative side of the battery.
If the ticking noise doesn't return then all well and good. But if it does return, or even get only slightly louder, then moving the ground point as you have might result in premature engine failure.
I find it very stange that extra wire is there in an area that typically requires the absolute minimum resistance for a system ground connection.
In most cases the battery negative post is connected directly to the engine block very near the starter. The starter draws a LOT of current so wire runs to/from are kept to an absolute minimum.
The connection you are moving is the MAIN ground wire connection for the battery negative post to the vehicle body. You want to be really sure that the point you have moved it to is VERY well connected to the body also.
In years past I have had instances wherein electronics components failed due to corrosion of that firewall connection. When you clean and burnish your battery terminals each spring it doesn't hurt to clean and burnish both ends of that connection also.
Thanks for your feedback. It is always a good idea to keep ground connections clean, Many, many electrical problems can be traced to dirty or corroded ground points. You sound like an engineer. Let me see if I can do a better job of explaining this fix for you. The wire I am talking about is black, about 12" long, and 14 gauge (about as thick as a round dress shoelace). One end is connected directly to the back of the cylinder head and the other to the firewall. I don’t understand why you think I was talking about the negative battery cable. The negative battery cable has two major ground points, and neither one is on the firewall. THE WIRE I'M TALKING ABOUT IS NOT THE MAIN GROUND FOR THE BATTERY in fact it's not even near the battery, the battery is on the opposite side of the engine compartment from this wire. It is also NOT the main ground connection for the engine and is the only wire that is bolted to the firewall. Intentional inductance? High inrush surge current? sure, whatever, but who knows? it could be as simple as physical conduction of sound through the wire, resonating on the large flat firewall.
This is a simple, low tech, safe and effective solution to a problem that has stumped Toyota for years, let’s not complicate it. I’ll let you know if I run into any problems later on. In the meantime, I will be enjoying the sounds of silence in my Sequoia.
From experience, not necessarily the way your vehicle is wired BUT highly likely.
There is a REALLY heavy guage wire/cable from the battery negative post connected directly to the engine block. Oftentimes this cable is connected under one of the bolts holding the starter to the engine block. The heavy cable on the positive side generally goes directly to the starter solenoid, and oftentimes this solenoid is either a part of the starter itself or mounted on it.
Now, where-ever your engine ECU is located, the transisters in it must be capable of switching the positive side of the circuit to the injector coil. The return current from the other side of the coil will most likely flow through that engine/firewall connection and then via the sheetmetal to the ECU.
As I said before, it is entirely possible that the high inrush surge current, each time an injector is "fired", will be high enough that the magnetic field will "wrinkle" the fairly thin firewall sheetmetal and create the ticking sound you heard.
But in the alternative you may have inadvertantly added just enough resistance in the circuit, a few hundred milliohms, to reduce the inrush current to the injectors significantly.
You will generally find a second cable from the positive battery post going off to the main fuse panel and power distribution harnesses.
Generally, the way the battery circuit is completed is via the metal structures and skin of the vehicle. That's why you have a reasonably heavy guage wire (this is often an uninsulated braided strap) connected from the engine block to the firewall, this is the "ground" connection that will be used to provide a circuit "return" path.
As an engineer, I would NEVER provide more slack or extra wire length above the amount needed for engine "torquing" movement in that connection. And by the way, that engine movement thing is likely the reason for the historically consistent location of this connection.
I have absolutely no doubt that the "ticking" sound that I hear in my 01 RX300 at or near idle is the sound of the fuel injectors operating. V6 at 800RPM is ~13RPS, 18 "ticks" per second.
24 "ticks"/second if you have a V8. Sound about right?
The only thing I might consider to "quiet" the ticking is wrap the injectors in some sort of sound deadening insulation.
Please keep in mind that the only notice you might get if I am correct is a prematurely failed engine. There is also slight chance, if I am correct, that you will notice a loss of some serious high end, high RPM, performance.
Low inrush current would result in slow, sloppy, opening of the injectors and that would not be noticeable until the engine climbs into the higher RPM ranges.
Until someone who can spell transistor and owns a Sequoia or Tundra weighs in on this issue and tells me exactly how moving a ground point from the firewall to the fender will ruin my engine, I'm not giving this another thought.
One doesn't have to know how to spell to know that one ground point on a vehicle, circuit, may not be as good, or may even be better, as another one at a different point.
I have always thought that the injector ticking sound was from the release of the power and therefore resulting from the spring action reseating of the injector.
Your moving the ground and have the ticking become quieter seems to indicate otherwise.
So what happens IF instead of moving the wire from original spot, you add a second thicker wire off the same bolt on the block to the PS mounting? This would provide a easier path for the "rush" to travel as WW describes. If all it is, is a path, I say give it a highway! Don't have the "tick" in my '03 but if it develops I'll try.
If you move the original wire back does the tick return?
For those who may not know, wwest is a very well respected poster here on Edmunds, especially on the LS board. He is not your average guy tho' - smart, intelligent and very knowledgable in the areas of electronics, engineering and computer stuff.... Spelling aside, he knows his stuff.... So maybe occassionally he kinda goes off on a tangent, no biggie!
Now regarding ticking noises.... mine doesn't have it. Maybe it's bcos I live in warm and sunny SoCal, hey ? Just one more reason why everyone should move out here; you'd never know if your SQ has the ticking noise. And that's all right by me.
I bought it from Tempe Toyota, Tempe, Arizona. Among the Navigation, Rear Seat Entertainment, and the luxury package. Among the 3 options, the luxury package is the least useful to me. The Rear seat DVD is also overpriced. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any Limited model with only Navigation option. According to the sales from several dealers, I have to buy Navigation along with RSE and Luxury options together.
Yep, Willard is INDEED a well respected and knowledgable person! No disrespect intended, but I felt that his information was based more on electronic theory than actual experience with the Sequoia. Rereading my post, I probably should have been more "PC".
The fuel pump, I think inside then tank, in my 78 Porsche started running continuously. Installed a new one and it ran the same. Mechanic scratched his head and said beats me, drive it.
A few months later the car decided not to start at the worse possible time. In checking the fuse I noticed that the fuse clamp was highly "oxidized", discolored.
Turned out the fuse hadn't failed but the fuse clamping was so loose the connection had degraded to the point that there was none.
As a temporary workaround I added an inline fuse holder bypassing the original.
Guess what?
The pump now ran intermittently again.
Without actually knowing I'm guessing the fluid pump was of the plunger type, a larger version of your fuel injectors and therefore drawing a much higher inrush current.
Apparently with the slight extra resistance of the non-springiness of the fuse clamp the pump wasn't reaching full travel and then not shutting off because even with the engine not running the fuel pressure never reached the pump shut-off level.
Don't worry too much about the PC aspect with me, if I'm not certain of what I say here then I'm not likely to say it. And if I do say it and I'm not certain or even wrong I can take my lumps.
Wwest just wants to express his opinion. Not only that, he just wants to give insight on his experience and assistance. What IF something could happen by removing the ground to another place. I'm pretty sure most people would rather be cautious than just doing something that may bite them in rear later. You never know wtih dealers and warranty issues now, but IF something did go wrong and the dealer saw that the ground was moved, they could possibly blame you.
As I said before, it would be simple enough to determine if the movement of the ground wire from the firewall to elsewhere was/is detriment to the operation of the injectors.
As a test I would connect a good heavy guage wire from the battery negative post to the new ground connection. The new wire should provide a good enough, improved, ground connection that the clicking noise will come back if it disappeared due to more ciruit resistance.
As I will soon be replacing my '01 Seq with an LX, it was quite pleasing to see that in almost 4 years of ownership (purchased date: Dec 13, 2000), and with 54K miles, the trade-in value of the truck is at about 50% of original MSRP. If I sell it myself, I would have only depreciated the car by about 45% of original value. This is about what many high-end luxury vehicles do in value, for a non-lux, no frills, 2WD SR5 Sequoia. Outstanding value for a truck, imo....
I am envious, OAC. I, too have a '01 SR5 and am considering trading for a Land Cruiser. Mine has 83K miles at this point and I'm afraid if I wait too much longer, the book value is going to drop significantly. One thing holding me back (other than cost) is the purported LC redesign slated for 2006 (unsure about the LX). As you noted in a previous post, Toyota is going down a slippery slope with respect to design, so may be better off getting one now. Your thoughts?
I will actually go ahead and do the current LC bcos Toyota cannot be trusted with coming up with a better design. Look at the studyness of the old LC versus the current LC. No comparison. The old LC was a rock-solid machine - the go anywhere, do anything, climb anything true SUV. Now, its all about mush and luxury, although it still retains most of its vaunted powertrain underneath....
It is the luxury of the LX and not the size that my wife wants for her 40th birthday in 2005. If it were all my decision, I'd trade the Seq and get a nice 2-seater roadster
Don't know if this helps or not.... But you gotta do what you feel is best for you, but if you want out of the Seq, do it before it hits 100K miles.
Thanks - I may see if there is any news at the January auto shows, otherwise, I may pull the trigger on the '05. Life is too short to be sitting on your hands.
With the 2005 sequoia it appears if you add the preferred package 2, alloy wheel package 2, keyless entry, roofrack and convenience package etc you can create a car (which dealers WILL order) that is identical to Limited except it is almost 3000 dollars cheaper. Does somebody know if the leather is different or am I missing something
That's how I ordered my '01. Only differences were that the mirrors are not heated and do not retract, seats were not heated and the door trim was in cloth. Leather was the same. Also, my SR5 came without the flashy silver trim and auto headlights. Nothing major. Some of these items may now be offered, but those were the primary differences when I purchased.
Same here. I have an 04 SR5 with leather and heated mirrors. Only thing I believe I don't have were heated seats and leather trim on the doors. I have the auto headlights also.
I actually have several questions here. My lease on a 2002 Yukon will be up in January and I need to replace it with an '05 Yukon or Sequoia. We've loved the Yukon and it's given us no trouble in the first 30,000 miles. We're thinking of buying this time around and would rather own a Toyota than American-made (good past ownership experiences with Toyota/Acura cars). So here are the questions:
1) Should we extend our lease for a year on the Yukon and wait for the new design on the '06 Toyota? I'm disappointed because I really thought both the Sequoia and Yukon would have come out with the fold-flat 3rd row seats by this time.
2) Is it better to lease or buy? My husband isn't convinced it's better to buy although he owns his '99 Acura RL and plans to drive it awhile to 100,000 miles. I think it's fine to buy a Toyota and keep it 7 years but probably wouldn't invest in a GMC truck.
3) What are the main differences as far as cargo and seating room and comfort between the two vehicles. Does the second row in Sequoia fold flat like the Yukon? Is there more legroom for people in the third row of the Seq than the Yukon? How would you compare the comfort level of both?
Thanks! I really hope someone can answer these questions!
1) Should we extend our lease for a year on the Yukon and wait for the new design on the '06 Toyota? I'm disappointed because I really thought both the Sequoia and Yukon would have come out with the fold-flat 3rd row seats by this time.
The new redesign for the Sequoia won't be here until the MY'07 release, since the '05 represent a small tweak in the front and rear facias and it typically takes Toyota another 6 releases to come with a brand new design. In the case of the Seq, released Oct 2000 so expect a complete re-do circa 2006 summer/fall or thereabouts.
2) Is it better to lease or buy? My husband isn't convinced it's better to buy although he owns his '99 Acura RL and plans to drive it awhile to 100,000 miles. I think it's fine to buy a Toyota and keep it 7 years but probably wouldn't invest in a GMC truck.
Leasing saves you money upfront (in the short-term) and allows you to trade-out into new vehicles every other 36 months or so. Buying a Toyota and holding for 7 years is probably slightly better than the comparable GMC over the same length of time... by historical standards. Your call here. Time over money....
3) What are the main differences as far as cargo and seating room and comfort between the two vehicles. Does the second row in Sequoia fold flat like the Yukon? Is there more legroom for people in the third row of the Seq than the Yukon? How would you compare the comfort level of both?
Both are fine trucks. Their dimensions are comparable as well (see link below). What differentiates both, imo, are the dated designs of the GMC (interior and exterior), access to third-row seating better in the Seq., and maybe the leg room may be a slight nod to the Seq. The Seq's DOHC 32V VVT-i 282hp motor is light-years ahead of the very dated 16V OHV 4.8L 285hp motor in the base Yukon. Maybe go up to the big 6.0L in the Denali to get more umph..... However, combined with the option levels you can get on the Denali trim, those of the GMC will provide you more options than on the Yota, and more creature comforts as well. I'll say both trucks are solid performers, and either one of these trucks will serve you well. Oh, you'll probably do better price-wise with the Yukon
Thank you for the detailed reply, oac. I'm actually thinking of the Sequoia SR5 with leather so price would be more in line with the Yukon. After browsing around the site today, I'm throwing the Nissan Armada into the mix. It does have that fold-flat seat! Any thoughts? Thanks!
I'm not sure but I believe the Yukon is all new next year as well. I've seen some spy photos and they may address some of their shortcomings. Just to thicken the plot! I've read that the Armada is not up to snuff interior and material wise, but probably has the best engine for now. That is if you can get past the styling (I can't but do find the new Pathfinder quite nice).
The Nissan Armada ? I truly do not know much about this truck except to say that as a former Nissan car owner, I'd expect the engine and chassis to be a good one while the build may not be up to Toyota level... OTOH, GM and Toyota has more years building full-size trucks than Nissan, so take that for whatever it is .... Overall, I'd say that the Armada is way too new on the market to make any real long term prognosis.
Sorry, I don't have much to offer on this one....
ps: Although my '01 Seq SR5 has been flawless through 57K miles (except for the weak front brakes that had to be fixed under warranty due to recall by Toyota), I am looking to trade-out to an LX in the immdeiate future - the wife's wish So, like you I am truck shopping, the difference is I know exactly what I am looking to buy....
We own an '03 Sequoia SR5. At that time, it was an easy decision. Adding the Armada to the mix makes it difficult while the '05 refreshing of the Sequoia makes it even more attractive. You can now get heated seats in the SR5 and the Limited now has memory seats and the 5 speed auto gets about 1 mpg better mileage while delivering slightly more power (although towing capacity is not improved).
The Armada has an excellent powertrain and is now in it's second model year. I would definitely test drive the Armada if I were you. If you need to tow something, it may be your best choice with a 9100 lb towing capacity although the Sequoia will handle most small boats and trailers. Big knock on the Armada from what I heard has been that it is loud which is definitely a strong point of the Sequoia. Maybe the QX56 is quieter although much more money I'm sure.
You might want to do more research on the when the re-design is due. I believe what you are seeing on this board is speculation. I remember buying a '97 Civic because I knew the comparable Acura Integra would be due for a re-design in '98 (based on last redesign for the '94 model year)since Honda always re-designed their cars every 4 years (yeah right). The Integra stuck around until '02 I believe.
My husband and I drove an '05 Sequoia today and I really liked it. He wasn't more impressed with it than the Yukon, however ultimately it's my choice since I drive it and the price compares very closely with the Yukon. We found out that Toyota is giving $2000 cash-back to the dealer right now on '04 and possibly '05 as well (probably just on the '05) Does that pretty much mean that we can offer invoice on the car and the dealer really doesn't have to make anything on this??? Hubby thinks I'm wrong but I've been reading Edmunds for awhile and I think this is a fair deal. They make $2000 just for us signing the papers and taking the car off the lot. Also, we have pretty much decided it is worth it for us to lease for 39 months and we come out financially even and get to upgrade to a new one at that time. We definitely need to make the deal first and then get the lease prices off the deal, correct? Thanks!
I don't know if it's "true" because I was told this by the manager of a dealership. I don't know why he would say this if it wasn't true unless this was his way of negotiating with us! I've heard about the $750 cash back to customer too so I'm a bit confused myself. This may just be for the Michigan/Ohio/Kentucky/Etc. region. Anyone????
Comments
Your user name suggests otherwise, Pedal2dmetal :-)
15,000 miles should be plenty of time to break everything in. Maybe you should look into retraining the computers and make sure you don't have a brake dragging.
Steve, Host
Anyone?
Steve, Host
my Toyota dealer inspected the rust around the exhaust tip today and said there is nothing they can do. Toyota Customer Service said that the rust warranty of 5yrs/unlimited miles only covers body panels.
Needless to say, I'm not satisfied with Toyota's or the dealer's responses. Has you or anyone had a postive experience with this rust problem where the dealer actually did something to rectify and prevent further rusting?
Thanks.
Yesterday, while reading another board dedicated to solutions for Tundra’s and Sequoia’s, I found a post by an intrepid Sequoia owner, who found the cure. It is so simple, I didn’t believe it would work, but decided to invest 5 minutes and try it. And It Worked!!!!
The cure: move a ground wire from the firewall to a ground point on the fender. That’s it!
For anyone who wants to try it, here are the details. The ground wire in question runs from the engine to a mounting point on the upper part of the firewall on the passenger side. There is a 10mm bolt attaching it to the firewall. Remove the bolt and take the wire off. The wire has some extra length in a loop wrapped with tape, remove the tape and pull the loop out. Remove one of the 10mm nuts from the power steering reservoir mounting bracket where it mounts to the body. Put the wire on the bolt and put the nut back on. Ok, that’s it! Being the thorough person that I am, I put the bolt that attached the ground wire on the firewall back in, and covered all the holes on the firewall that I could see with aluminum tape. I then decided to look for other openings where sound might get in, and found two gaps on either end of the firewall at the intersection with the inner fender. I sealed this area (about 2 inches long) with some left over painters caulk that I found in the garage. I don’t know if it is necessary to cover up the holes and gaps, but I did and now there is NO ticking and very little engine noise in the cab at all. Yea ha!!!
THD.
But there is a chance, remote, but possible, that you have inadvertantly increased the resistance between the negative side of the battery and the negative side of the fuel injectors. Less current to the injector, less noise from the injector seats as their solenoids are energized and released.
Just to be safe I would try the following.
Personally I would advise putting the wire back on the firewall and then running a good heavy duty high current connection between that same firewall connection and the negative side of the battery.
If the ticking noise doesn't return then all well and good. But if it does return, or even get only slightly louder, then moving the ground point as you have might result in premature engine failure.
An intentional inductance??
I find it very stange that extra wire is there in an area that typically requires the absolute minimum resistance for a system ground connection.
In most cases the battery negative post is connected directly to the engine block very near the starter. The starter draws a LOT of current so wire runs to/from are kept to an absolute minimum.
The connection you are moving is the MAIN ground wire connection for the battery negative post to the vehicle body. You want to be really sure that the point you have moved it to is VERY well connected to the body also.
In years past I have had instances wherein electronics components failed due to corrosion of that firewall connection. When you clean and burnish your battery terminals each spring it doesn't hurt to clean and burnish both ends of that connection also.
This is a simple, low tech, safe and effective solution to a problem that has stumped Toyota for years, let’s not complicate it. I’ll let you know if I run into any problems later on. In the meantime, I will be enjoying the sounds of silence in my Sequoia.
There is a REALLY heavy guage wire/cable from the battery negative post connected directly to the engine block. Oftentimes this cable is connected under one of the bolts holding the starter to the engine block. The heavy cable on the positive side generally goes directly to the starter solenoid, and oftentimes this solenoid is either a part of the starter itself or mounted on it.
Now, where-ever your engine ECU is located, the transisters in it must be capable of switching the positive side of the circuit to the injector coil. The return current from the other side of the coil will most likely flow through that engine/firewall connection and then via the sheetmetal to the ECU.
As I said before, it is entirely possible that the high inrush surge current, each time an injector is "fired", will be high enough that the magnetic field will "wrinkle" the fairly thin firewall sheetmetal and create the ticking sound you heard.
But in the alternative you may have inadvertantly added just enough resistance in the circuit, a few hundred milliohms, to reduce the inrush current to the injectors significantly.
You will generally find a second cable from the positive battery post going off to the main fuse panel and power distribution harnesses.
Generally, the way the battery circuit is completed is via the metal structures and skin of the vehicle. That's why you have a reasonably heavy guage wire (this is often an uninsulated braided strap) connected from the engine block to the firewall, this is the "ground" connection that will be used to provide a circuit "return" path.
As an engineer, I would NEVER provide more slack or extra wire length above the amount needed for engine "torquing" movement in that connection. And by the way, that engine movement thing is likely the reason for the historically consistent location of this connection.
I have absolutely no doubt that the "ticking" sound that I hear in my 01 RX300 at or near idle is the sound of the fuel injectors operating. V6 at 800RPM is ~13RPS, 18 "ticks" per second.
24 "ticks"/second if you have a V8. Sound about right?
The only thing I might consider to "quiet" the ticking is wrap the injectors in some sort of sound deadening insulation.
Please keep in mind that the only notice you might get if I am correct is a prematurely failed engine. There is also slight chance, if I am correct, that you will notice a loss of some serious high end, high RPM, performance.
Low inrush current would result in slow, sloppy, opening of the injectors and that would not be noticeable until the engine climbs into the higher RPM ranges.
I have always thought that the injector ticking sound was from the release of the power and therefore resulting from the spring action reseating of the injector.
Your moving the ground and have the ticking become quieter seems to indicate otherwise.
If you move the original wire back does the tick return?
Now regarding ticking noises.... mine doesn't have it. Maybe it's bcos I live in warm and sunny SoCal, hey ? Just one more reason why everyone should move out here; you'd never know if your SQ has the ticking noise. And that's all right by me.
I bought it from Tempe Toyota, Tempe, Arizona. Among the Navigation, Rear Seat Entertainment, and the luxury package. Among the 3 options, the luxury package is the least useful to me. The Rear seat DVD is also overpriced. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any Limited model with only Navigation option. According to the sales from several dealers, I have to buy Navigation along with RSE and Luxury options together.
Tommy
A few months later the car decided not to start at the worse possible time. In checking the fuse I noticed that the fuse clamp was highly "oxidized", discolored.
Turned out the fuse hadn't failed but the fuse clamping was so loose the connection had degraded to the point that there was none.
As a temporary workaround I added an inline fuse holder bypassing the original.
Guess what?
The pump now ran intermittently again.
Without actually knowing I'm guessing the fluid pump was of the plunger type, a larger version of your fuel injectors and therefore drawing a much higher inrush current.
Apparently with the slight extra resistance of the non-springiness of the fuse clamp the pump wasn't reaching full travel and then not shutting off because even with the engine not running the fuel pressure never reached the pump shut-off level.
Theory and experience.
Not a relative of Dubya by any means.
As a test I would connect a good heavy guage wire from the battery negative post to the new ground connection. The new wire should provide a good enough, improved, ground connection that the clicking noise will come back if it disappeared due to more ciruit resistance.
It is the luxury of the LX and not the size that my wife wants for her 40th birthday in 2005. If it were all my decision, I'd trade the Seq and get a nice 2-seater roadster
Don't know if this helps or not.... But you gotta do what you feel is best for you, but if you want out of the Seq, do it before it hits 100K miles.
Help appreciated
1) Should we extend our lease for a year on the Yukon and wait for the new design on the '06 Toyota? I'm disappointed because I really thought both the Sequoia and Yukon would have come out with the fold-flat 3rd row seats by this time.
2) Is it better to lease or buy? My husband isn't convinced it's better to buy although he owns his '99 Acura RL and plans to drive it awhile to 100,000 miles. I think it's fine to buy a Toyota and keep it 7 years but probably wouldn't invest in a GMC truck.
3) What are the main differences as far as cargo and seating room and comfort between the two vehicles. Does the second row in Sequoia fold flat like the Yukon? Is there more legroom for people in the third row of the Seq than the Yukon? How would you compare the comfort level of both?
Thanks! I really hope someone can answer these questions!
tidester, host
1) Should we extend our lease for a year on the Yukon and wait for the new design on the '06 Toyota? I'm disappointed because I really thought both the Sequoia and Yukon would have come out with the fold-flat 3rd row seats by this time.
The new redesign for the Sequoia won't be here until the MY'07 release, since the '05 represent a small tweak in the front and rear facias and it typically takes Toyota another 6 releases to come with a brand new design. In the case of the Seq, released Oct 2000 so expect a complete re-do circa 2006 summer/fall or thereabouts.
2) Is it better to lease or buy? My husband isn't convinced it's better to buy although he owns his '99 Acura RL and plans to drive it awhile to 100,000 miles. I think it's fine to buy a Toyota and keep it 7 years but probably wouldn't invest in a GMC truck.
Leasing saves you money upfront (in the short-term) and allows you to trade-out into new vehicles every other 36 months or so. Buying a Toyota and holding for 7 years is probably slightly better than the comparable GMC over the same length of time... by historical standards. Your call here. Time over money....
3) What are the main differences as far as cargo and seating room and comfort between the two vehicles. Does the second row in Sequoia fold flat like the Yukon? Is there more legroom for people in the third row of the Seq than the Yukon? How would you compare the comfort level of both?
Both are fine trucks. Their dimensions are comparable as well (see link below). What differentiates both, imo, are the dated designs of the GMC (interior and exterior), access to third-row seating better in the Seq., and maybe the leg room may be a slight nod to the Seq. The Seq's DOHC 32V VVT-i 282hp motor is light-years ahead of the very dated 16V OHV 4.8L 285hp motor in the base Yukon. Maybe go up to the big 6.0L in the Denali to get more umph..... However, combined with the option levels you can get on the Denali trim, those of the GMC will provide you more options than on the Yota, and more creature comforts as well. I'll say both trucks are solid performers, and either one of these trucks will serve you well. Oh, you'll probably do better price-wise with the Yukon
See the comparo features/specs here from Edmunds
http://www.edmunds.com/apps/nvc/edmunds/VehicleComparison;jsessio- - - nid=BqzhGHO0ficeCUbWaGbt3htmr6d23FA7ZKssxhn582PTf9l1kkAE!-1914811- - - 638?basestyleid=100273874&styleid=100334204&maxvehicles=5- - - &refid=&op=3&tab=specs
Hope these helps
I've read that the Armada is not up to snuff interior and material wise, but probably has the best engine for now. That is if you can get past the styling (I can't but do find the new Pathfinder quite nice).
Sorry, I don't have much to offer on this one....
ps: Although my '01 Seq SR5 has been flawless through 57K miles (except for the weak front brakes that had to be fixed under warranty due to recall by Toyota), I am looking to trade-out to an LX in the immdeiate future - the wife's wish
The Armada has an excellent powertrain and is now in it's second model year. I would definitely test drive the Armada if I were you. If you need to tow something, it may be your best choice with a 9100 lb towing capacity although the Sequoia will handle most small boats and trailers. Big knock on the Armada from what I heard has been that it is loud which is definitely a strong point of the Sequoia. Maybe the QX56 is quieter although much more money I'm sure.
You might want to do more research on the when the re-design is due. I believe what you are seeing on this board is speculation. I remember buying a '97 Civic because I knew the comparable Acura Integra would be due for a re-design in '98 (based on last redesign for the '94 model year)since Honda always re-designed their cars every 4 years (yeah right). The Integra stuck around until '02 I believe.
I am very much interested to know if $2000 cash-back to the dealer is really true or not? anybody know?
Steve, Host